BluDestiny

I think he wants the intake.

Is the airdam for a s130? How about this one? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99292-s13-camber-platesmight-fit-280zx-1-280zx-headlight-cover-280zx-urethane-front-lip/ I'm in Burbank too.

Well until this car looks presentable, i.e. painted and ****, this is my F***-it-up car. DGAF, have fun while you can and all that lol

So my brother make a couple of these for his car, and they looked pretty goofy/eye catching. Perfect to slap on my car. They are made out of some 1/4" thick rubber stuff that I got at Orchard Supply and Hardware. Cost about $12 for what was like barely 3 sq ft. They started as rectangles, then I just cut out the part that wouldn't show with a box cutter. Used some short bolts to mount them to the holes on the wheel wells. Used some old spray paint and masking tape to color an viola, cheap/functional/corney/cool mudguards with any pattern you want. I chose the BRE pattern because I feel like it would be ricey to use the Nismo logo. First: Second: third: All four done(didn't run the wording on the front because it would hardly get seen) On the car( I know they rears aren't big enough for my tires so these might go onto my 260z):

Worry about getting it running in the car first. There are several writeups on here and zcar.com. Put the engine in STOCK then you can worry about getting Megaquirt hooked up. I was helping xShodaimex with his swap the other day and he can attest to it being confusing if you are a noob at wiring, or have little mechanical experience. I can sorta help you if you're close to 91505. I went up to help Shoda because he's a good guy and I got free parts out of it.

+1 and you can turbo it.

Any of you guys seen teh BMW art cars? I love them. http://www.bmwdrives.com/bmw-artcars.php

Ok so Since i've gotten my new rims/tires, my car has rubbed like crazy up and down driveways and on bumps in the freeway and even on initial acceleration. This is because I should have gotten 1inch more offset on my rims, but what can you do. This annoyed me becasue I thought my suspension was pretty stiff, but I was way wrong. I was running tokico HP struts and tokico springs in the rear. I recently got a pair of Kei Office coilovers(Keiichi Tsuchiya's old brand) from someone on Zilvia for $300 which is pretty good since they aren't blown. From what I've read the spingrates in the rear is about 7kg/mm. The good thing about these coilovers is that the strut is fully threaded same as megan and stance coilovers. Only downside is that kei office went under and no one can rebuild them. When I first put the Hp's and the coilovers side by side I was a little worried, because the HP struts are about 3 inches longer than the coilovers with the top hats. After I adjusted the coilovers though it came out to about the same hieght. Anyway I forgot to snap pictures of the coilover off the car, and I don't want to take these off. The bottom of the coilover fits perfectly onto the original knuckle thingy. The tophat however only has 2 bolts and is 3ish inches in diameter, so instead of drilling holes into my stut tower, I got a 5x3 cylindrical piece of aluminum and brought the 280zx top hat and s13 top hat to a machine shop. Top hat installed: Here is a pic of the spare aluminum leftover. I had them design basically a 5in s13 top hat with the same bolt pattern as the 280zx tophat. I can now use any set of s13 rear coilovers. The top hats cost me about $200 for both plus I paid for the piece of aluminium which was about $30. not bad. Total price of rear coilover for my car was $530. The rear is pretty stiff and drove it on the freeway for 3 hours without any issues. I do not have coilovers in the front yet, but I haven't had a problem with the Illuminas rubbing in the front. I am debating on if I want to get some weld in ground controls with camber plates or just wait and save up for some stances. Note: You would have to be retarded to mess this up. Getting the top hats was an easy way for me to make them a bolt in affair without drilling holes plus I can still run my Cusco rear strut bar without drilling holes in it as well. I don't care if you say it's easier to drill holes, this is how I did it.

Call Ron at Isky cams and chat with him about what kind of cam/springs you should run. As for fuel pressure, I'm using an "OEM" replacement from autozone. It's a low pressure(3-5psi) fuel pump. Works fine, but I eventually want to change it out with an EFI fuel pump and get a regulator mounted in the firewall with new lines for a cleaner look.

you can buy or make your own surge tank. I rememebr reading a post about someone here who made it out of plumbers pipe and people thought it was a bomb Replace your hardlines if they are too small to support your hp goals. You CAN wire the pumps to a switch, like a fuel cut off switch. Probably can't get it to work with the stock ECU.

Probably should have worn a surgeon mask to keep it out of your mouth. Hindsight is 20/20 they say haha Looks amazing btw

+1 My 260z is VIN 90. I am don't have the nerve to cut it up and forever mess it up.

What is your location?

Wouldn't know, never ran a head with brass seats. Are you building a performance head?

JZ33, Flat implies there is no shine. Why would you shine a "flat" color? All you did was smooth it out. and pics please

Found this, should help. "- The larger valve N42 came on the 1975-76 280Z. 48 state U.S. 280Zs didn't use a catalytic converter until 1977, so the head came with softer brass valve seats for use with leaded gas. Many people like these for performance because of it's square exhaust ports. And as a easy mod, putting it on a flattop L28 motor puts compression in the mid 10's. It uses an external oil spray bar." from: http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/

Blue72, You really do need some new wheels/rims. Nice seeing you at the MSA show.

I don't care what it looks like(ugly in my opinion) but if it can really put down that much hp then I am amazed.

do you mean just the carbs and intake/linkage? or a full engine with triple carbs? I'm in 91505 and interested depending on your motor...

Any free car is worth it.

Made my day. lol

It almost can't be helped with the weak structure to that hood.Our hoods are longer than most other cars. Unless you want to add on to the bracing it already has the pins will be the easiest way. It will just look a little funny.

Was the compressor seized?

I've never "inspected" one but look at the mounts. If they look like ****, they probably are. Don't want the engine to drop out from under you. Then also look in the myriad of normal places for rust on Z's and any car.

Honda S2000 because, you know, vtech just kicked in yo and all that.