BluDestiny

So you aren't doing anything to the suspension other than brakes? even a simple tokico strut/spring combo (like $600 new) would definitely be worth your while

I sold a p79 head for about $70 during summer. It had been milled once. Just saying that a lot of people don't want those heads and there are pretty available in junkyards if you want to start with a fresh head.

well with the body kit you would have to cut through it to make a hole for the tow hook. You could fab something up to mount on the frame where the original tow points are.

Almost doesn't matter for performance. P90a has quite hydralic lifters, p90 has solid. I would use whichever one is cheaper

I also need the driver door

Ditto. I almost don't want to get new guages because it was such a pain.

Really hoping that everyone is getting evacuated safely and that no members cars are being destroyed like that Subaru.

Unless you make like 300+hp you an go with the 225mm flywheel/clutch. I wouldn't reuse the old parts unless you are really hurting for cash. this is the best time to replace the clutch and resurface the flywheel. You can get a great street setup for like $600(Fidanza Flywheel and exedy clutch kit) Shoda I was interested in the rear seats. If they are painted over I'll pass. But I do need the hood. pm me an offer

Hey, I'm looking for a pair of fenders without the side molding crap. I don't care if it has the holes near the bottom for the emblems though as long as it's a pair. Don't care if it has surface rust, but no holes and no dents. I will settle for a driver side WITHOUT the emblem holes/moulding also Would like to do local pickup. I'm in socal and will travel/meet someone up to an hour away. Email me at day1461@yahoo.com or text me at 818-919-4242

I see you have a 2+2 as the donor, how is the interior? I need a noce set pf rear seats and belts

Offset depends on the rim width. Example. You have a 10" wide rim, with 0 offset then the face of the wheel is 5" in. If you you want negative offset you move the face closer to the inside(towards calipers), say to 4" then you have a negative inch(-25 offset) of backspacing. If you move it out to say 6" then you have an inch of positive offset(+25 offset). Offset is measured in millimeters so just convert 1 in = 25.4 mil You need about 4" of backspacing to clear stock brake calipers.

All L type engines 70-83 had forged internals except the pistons

Honestly a stock clutch will hold that power, but if you go any higher(which you probably will) you will probably want to upgrade. You can get a stage 1 exedy clutch(full face organic) for about $300 and a stage 2(3 puck) for like $380. You also might want to get you flywheel resurfaced and maybe lightened a few lbs. Also post more pics of the car

Do you have a return line?

buy a $700 zx from cali and drive it back to nj. People literally throw zx's away here because of emissions. You could get a running zxt here for $600.

Invite me over when you do start on the miata. I'm currently out of town for winter break, but I'll be back mid january.

Does a captain not know every nut and bolt in his ship? It's good that you've practically tought yourself all this crap. When I first got my 280zx it had a blown engine in it and replaced that, but the replacement engine blew on me(the block was sold to me with cracks that were filled with JB weld, it was a POS). Got it running and sanded it all down and painted it, and did the interior too. I know what it's like, but it only makes you more attached to the vehicle

Engine bay pics too please?

You should think about polishing up that cannon manifold. They look great and it would compliment your headers. Also why do you have the clutch fan? I would think some electric fans would work better, unless you're going for keeping it original. Lastly, is the tach adapter needed? I tried hooking up the 6AL unit to my 260 straight to the tach, but the tach didn't work(the 6AL did though). I know my tach is different than yours though. I'm thinking of just doing a full E12-80 dizzy swap also.

IIRC the turbo model was 70amp while the NA was 60amp. That could be a myth though.

Yeah got them, sorry for such a late reply, and Tony you shouldn't be telling people to do that since that would put some people who travel from LA to Florida on a bi annual schedule out of making a pretty penny by selling some rust free Z's. As for the Z I hope this is the right one, Sadly it is not an early 70, but a 71. Lot of work has been put into it though, a lot of the actauly frame seems to have been cut out and new parts welded in. Also has a 6-1 exhaust and an L28. Suspension was stock though. Henestly if you wanted a rolling shell this is it. There are almost no rust holes(a few pin sized one on the rocker panels, but nothing in the floor boards) and other than stripping the tar off, it's ready to be painted.

that's not a stock L28et manifold. That came from a 280z without smog attachments. A lot of people use them over the L28et manifold becasue it looks "cleaner". I'm building my turbo with one. But teh L28et intake has a pop off valve designed to vent excess pressure in the intke. Do you have something like that(a bov, or that thing thats cut off in the last picture)? Also idk what was used to plug the pcv valve hole, but it doesnt look like it will stand up to lot of boost. And where is your pcv valve? and where is the block venting to?

I'm amazed no one asked this yet, but what is teh history on the car? Did the PO tell you anything he did specifically to it, like machine work etc?

I'll stop by on saturday. Heading back from tucson to burbank and it's on the way. I'll throw some pics up.

You would be able to run more boost with a stock turbo block for sure than with your stroker. I would start with a fresh turbo block.