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There was a good write up in the last "custom rodder" magazine about registering a custom or kit vehicle in California. It was actually the editorial subject and the experience of registering their latest project. It's worth looking for a copy at the newsstand.

Get better linkage at http://www.piercemanifolds.com/linkage.htm. They have adjustable links in various lengths. I'm using these in place of the stock factory pieces. They are made by JPS and are superior in quality. The ball ends are 8mm so you can use the stock balls on the TB and shaft. Alternately, you could reomve the stock balls, drill out the holes and use the ball ends supplied with the links.

Contact http://www.piercemanifolds.com or http://www.racetep.com for confirmation. I know that two 38's will definately provide all the air and fuel you'll need for a stock or lightly modified L6. For the cost of Webers these days I'd either rebuild the SU's with kits from Ztherapy or core them for a set of Ztherapy SU's. You'll be in the same ballpark dollarwise either way. Why did you pull the triples? What were they?

I stand corrected.

I'd be reluctant to run the fan that close. Radiators are not cheap and hate being munched on by a rude fan blade. Besides, you need room to change fan belts. I have actually strapped engines to prevent rotation and forward movement in high HP situations (old school stuff).

If it were only that simple. You could sit down with a diagram and strip the harness of unused component wiring and then add the leads needed for power and ground. You could send the harness off to be modified at one of the many businesses like Speartech. You could buy a harness already to go from GM or the aftermarket suppliers. Anyway you look at it you'll need to have the ECM programmed to meet your needs (no VATS, no emissions(?), no torque control (automatics), etc.). I chose to get a offroad harness and ECM from GM Performance. Expect to spend some money.

The abrupt opening into the plenum is causing the immediate turbulance IMHO. It's the same reason we get so much exhaust intrusion into our S30's at speed. Why not taper the opening into the plenum like a reversed velocity stack assuming there is enough material to allow this? Maybe a couple of thin strips could be added horizonally just behind the throttle body to provide more control of airflow entering the plenum?

As martini stated, if you really want to use the 16" fan because you've got it then block off the portion of the shroud below the radiator core. You'll get better airflow and cooling. My black magic fan uses a rubber surround to mate the shroud snug to the radiator. A bit of door/hatch weatherstripping would work well. There are many vehicles with offset fans to maximize surface area used. The alternative is the smaller 14" or dual 10"/12" fans at the cost of replacement from the local JY.

Torque would be the same as any cast/forged wheel using a tapered lug nut. It should be around 85lb/ft.

The old school spacers were usually cast material and were inferior. They had a tendency to fail under hard use or even bumping a curb. The billet spacers/adapters today are safe to use under most conditions. Once installed you'll need to retorque the spacer lug nuts after about 25-50 miles to ensure they are tightly secured. Get a full size tire from a honda as a spare. If you get a flat it will go right on without the need of pulling the spacer. I run 4x114.3 +28mm (approx) from Ross at MM. The wheels are 17x7 +40mm Racinghart C2's I pulled off my '94 Accord to put on my '71 240Z. The fit is excellent and I have had no problems at all. If I were buying a set of wheels form the outset then I'd get the proper 0 offset wheels for the Z.

You can pull a choke with the carb installed. Remove the air filter housing. Loosen the jam nut on the side of the barrel (it's at approximately 5 and 7 o'clock depending on which barrel you're pulling from. Back the lock bolt out of the barrel. Pull the choke out. The size is cast into the throat of the choke. There's a guy named Alfa1750(?) on eBay. I've gotten many parts from him. I'm sending a set of DHLA's over for complete repair and calibration. Once they're back I'll decide whether to run them or sell them. I love the look and sound of triples but my Ztherapy SU's kick arse too.

My immediate thoughts are the carb is to big for the application. The dual plane manifold helps with signal at low rpm's but even the primaries are hugh on a 750. If it's running and you've checked timing then it is most likely fuel related. Find another smaller carb to play with a 650 vac secondary would be more in tune with your setup IMHO.

A pressure switch set at 5psi would also work. Less than 5psi would be trouble. Shimming the pump is not all that difficult. If you go that route then use a thinnnn washer. Excess pressure is not needed or advised.

One note that everyone is missing. This is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation. It is there for a purpose. That is to provide a negative atmosphere inside the crankcase. It aids in a multitude of areas including better ring sealing (reduces buildup in the lands), prevents seals being blown out and reduces early oil contamination too. What manifold are you going to use? Is there no provision for the installation of a PCV valve (drill and tap a bung)? Do you have power brakes and can you tap into the vacuum line for that? Even my 67 Camaro had a venting system which consisted of a tube that ran down just below the body pan. A venturi affect was created while driving and the gases were evacuated that way. That system was replaced with what we're all familiar with today to prevent oil soiling the belly of the car and blatant gross pollution.

I'm reasonably sure I have still have wiring diagrams for the V6 vortec. I run a '96 in my Land Rover. My harness was stripped of all unused crap and modified to fit my application (by myself). PM me as a reminder and I'll see about scanning in the diagrams for E-mailing.

I was having a fit with my triple Dellortos so I pulled them and ordered the Ztherapy carbs with euro balance tube. The Dells are going to Italy for a proper overhaul (throttle plates adjusted, etc.) and setup so I can drop them back in and go if I choose to. I love the look and sound of triples but for the typical street car those SU's are hard to beat. I have every reason to believe the Ztherapy carbs will be excellent performers based on nothing but positive posts from other users.

The L20B cover was acquired in case I built the LD28 block into a petrol L6.

I'd be interested in the read. Please send the info on. It looks more like I should have a set of pistons custom made for this stroker. Any other suggestions?

Please elaborate on your reasons for not using the VG piston.

I'm sure that some do not read links or take suggestions. I like to think that I'm openminded enough to look at any and all advice offered. There was no link in your prior post (although I thought it was there and pointing to the Lengine program or I wouldn't have mentioned it in my post). Otherwise, I would have done so and maybe have my answer. I do search prior to asking questions. Often there is much banter about the subject and the occasional hi-jack. Sometimes there's even some hard details to work with. What you search for has an impact as well. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong areas. We need to create a sticky with the details of different combos to create a variety of displacements. Please repost that link and I'll be happy to give it a go.

The Lengine program is awesome but lacks coverage of the LD28 block and an assortment of pistons. I am leaning toward to VG piston. It seems ideal with a guesstimated c.r. of around 8.5 or 9.5 depending on using the dished or crowned design. Do these have use 21mm pin? Can both sides of the V6 be used in an L6? Where is the best source?

I've read and read and quite frankly I'm tired of searching. I'm going to build a stroker and wish for about 8.5:1 compression for use with a Eaton M62 generic supercharger. I have to following parts on hand to choose from... L28ET (F54) short block Complete LD28 engine L20B timing cover L24 rods, 9mm rod bolts E88 cylinder head P90a cylinder head (mechanical lifters) I'm leaning towards the P90a because I intend to run fuel injection (SDS) but the E88 is still a contender here. The question is which rods and pistons? I would like to use the LD28 rods for better ratio but don't know what piston (if any) is compatible. The LD28 rods would be lightened to reduce mass of course. I'm guessing the KA pistons are a given for the L24 rods? I'm looking for the easiest to use (e.g. no pin bushings, surface shaving, etc. if possible). Lastly is the choice of head gasket. If the 2mm is still available through Nissan then I'd go that direction. This will be a street driven vehicle where longivity and low maintainance holds priority over max hp/tq. Give me your flames, suggestions, recommendations and reasons.

You can find cupronickel pipe/tube at boiler shops and any similar business that serves the ship building/repair industry. I work in a naval shipyard and visit the piping shop often looking for bits I might use in my projects. The weight per foot of cupronickel or copper is much more than aluminum and the cost would be well up there too. Brazing is the only viable method of joining for most DIY's. A healthy torch, silver flux and some high silver content brazing wire would do the trick. We're talking IC's here and although the temps can be up there the benefits of using copper or cupronickel (the better choice) just aren't justified for the application IMHO. I'd rather build from aluminum and then anodize it in some awesome color to mix or match. You can probably get close to a copper color too. I think you'd be dollars ahead.

Heavy metal can be added to the crankshaft throws to balance it. A competent engine machine shop should be able to do this. What is your application?

A couple more pictures....