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A quik search showed bridge reamers using a 1@10 taper. I don't know if this is standard though. Most speed equipment suppliers sell taper reamers that are 1.5"@12" or 2"@12". I thought most ball joints and tierods used the 1.5"@12". Just an observation...

You could ask. I'd also consider a body shop for an estimate (after having the tank flushed at a rad shop).

One way is to braze or weld steel rods to the tank in the damaged area. You can then use leverage to pull the rods outward thus pulling the dented area with it. You can also drill holes and use a puller to extract the dent. Finally, you can drill slightly larger holes through the opposing side and use a rounded tip bar stock to knock the dent outwards. The last two do require the holes to be brazed or welded up though. I'd bet a web search for dent repair would show one or more of these techniques.

Maybe someone with a rotted tank and a torch would cut one open to investigate further. I do have a spare tank but it is in usable condition so I hate to chop it up.

Mark's right. The proportioning valve only controls balance front and rear. The front calipers fittings are fed from a common chamber in the PV. Look for damaged lines, hoses (possibly collapsed internally) and sticking calipers. If the caliper is sticking the pads will be worn significantly different from one side and the other (drivers side/ pass side) or you'll see only the pad for the piston worn heavily while the outside pad is barely thinned. Also, a misalignment or worn steering component canl be more pronounced in braking situations.

My tank is out for hose replacement too. I am looking to close off all but the highest vent line. I don't want to damage the tank so I'll drill out brass block-off plugs and braze these on. That will allow removal later is needed or desired. Later tanks do not have all of these hoses so I don't know why removal of same would prevent filling the tank. While I'm at it I was thinking of cutting and rewelding the vent tube which requires the U-bend hose. There appears to be plenty of room to do so and install a straight hose through the body and up to the expansion tank. Any thoughts on why it wasn't done like this from the factory or reasons it couldn't be done?

I bleed my brakes from the wheel cylinderscalipers to the MC using a simple pressurized setup. Some don't like the idea of introducing moisture in this process though. I've never had a problem and actually bleed then refresh the fluid every couple of years. All but silicone is hydroscopic (it attract H2O) and will collect it past the seals or MC cap over time. Anyhow, it does sound like you've not bleed the brakes properly or it could be a crappy MC right out of the box.

I have a wild hair to install a DIS in my 240Z. There is no real reason I need it as the stock distributor with Allison ignition works fine. The cost of the kit is $835 plus $180 for machine work (mounting the wheel) and making the pick-up bracket. That's >$1000! I thought about using C.O.P. instead of the XDI coil packs and a little creative wiring. My common sense tells me to leave the ignition alone. My soul says the setup would improve all around performance and look good doing it. Are others here running a DIS that was more cost effective? If so, what are you using specifically? At what cost?

I can't provide the numbers off the top of my head but you will want the3-wire unit. It starts to generate powere at a much lower rpm than the self-exciting 1-wire unit. Also, the ignition wire needs to go through a lamp to indicate charging status (on = no charge). Sometimes a diode is needed to prevent backfeeding the ignition causing run-on when you shut down the engine. I've not done this conversion yet but the swap is supposedly as you have stated. Look at this link for GM alternator info. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

My personal opinion is most of these heaters are bandaids at best and potential for serious damage at worst. I picked up a used 65k btu forced air furnace for $100 and plumbed NG out to the garage. Another $100 invested in those flexible vent hoses, vents and exhaust piping. The plumbing was done on-the-fly but professional none the less. With insulation only in the walls and an open ceiling it will run you out if set too high. I usually keep it down at 50 (lowest setting) all winter. That keeps the moisture out and provides quicker warm-up times. The downside is cost of NG but I suspect it isn't any higher than buying gallons of kerosene or running an electric heater.

That site sounded really good until I read through it. The largest item shipped would be a rear deck spoiler. Any larger pieces (engines, body panels, etc) are rejected. If it slips through they ship by cargo vessel ($400 and up) and charge a $100 penalty fee. There has to be another way other than a friend or relative in Japan.

Sounds good. I'm going from experience of using these in other vehicles and others experience. Maybe I can get a look at your car one day soon as i only live one city over from you.

I like the idea of adjustable control arms. However, I don't like rod ends or heim joints on the street. They are cause for more interior noise and a harsher ride. Has anyone created a control arm using a threaded sleeve and cross tube allowing for a stock or poly bushing? Threaded sleeves at both ends with a turnbuckle bolt in the middle for on-the-car adjustment seems logical. Forgive me for not searching........

Yeah, I was turning the stub axle alone. Not much leverage to work with there.

Thanks for the input. I thought all was okay but wanted a little reasurance. I only pack the bearings well and not fill the cavity with wasted grease. It's easier to address problems now than once it's all back together under the car.

I'm calling on those gone before me. I assembled my 240Z rear stub axles today. All new parts from Nissan were used. The seals were pressed in until they seated as shown in the FSM.The only difference was I used the 280Z stub axles and companion flanges. The housings were marked "B" and I reused the "B" distance pieces that were not deformed or crushed. I ran down the nuts with my impact (about 500 b/ft) which I know exceeded the factory torque spec. I could disassemble and install new distance pieces and retorque if I need to. When I rotate the stub axles there is no noise but they have moderate rolling resistance. I don't suspect any problems but wanted to hear from anyone who has done this and experienced the same thing. NOTE: I loosened and retightened the nut to about 200-250 lb/ft and the rolling resistance hasn't changed.

You'll work yourself to death. The chisel will cause more damage than good too. Maybe you can convince family, friend or lover to get you another decent drill motor for an early Christmas present?

That's the very reason line locks are not allowed as parking brakes on any street legal vehicle. Only a mechanical brake is reliable for such purpose. I'm glad nothing happened!

Have him get a FSM or head over to the local bookstore and see what's available to read. You could head over to the BMW forums (http://www.pelicanparts.com) and post this question after registering too. It could probably be similar to a Z....who knows?

I agree with Mario. Sounds like you have goblins in the electrical system. You could hook up a mechanical gauge to check for overheating. You could use an aftermarket electrical gauge powered directly off the battery too. I suggest you look for damaged wire(s) or faulty grounds under the dash. You may have gauges trying to find a ground through another gauge or component because there is no ground. Multi-element taillights will due this when a ground is bad.

A blown strut will definately cause this to occur. It is there to control spring modulation and keep the tire planted. Weaken springs usually follow bad struts or shocks if not addressed.

Hell, I'll post to Australia. I sent a 13 vane kit for a 4L60E over there just a couple months back. I don't have a motor mount in hand but my LS1 is a 2000 vintage. I'm swapping the oil pan and pickup for a truck version to use in my Hybrid Land Rover. I wasn't in any hurry to do this but... Look around on Ebay or wherever and buy your stuff. Have it posted to me and I'll send it off to you. Actual cost nothing more! I guess the folks here don't realize how simple it is to ship overseas or can't be bothered with the customs forms required since those sick bastards attacked us in 2001. You can PM me when you're ready.

I'm impressed by everything but the lock wire. There is a tool called safety-wire pliers for this application. The end result is cleaner and tighter. I did this on many weapon systems aboard naval ships as a mechanic years back. You can find a good pair on the web. Keep up the good work! Lock wire basics http://www.lrrsracing.com/RuleBook/lockwire.htm The pliers http://www.tavia.com/cat1.html http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4351283P3603412-Klein-Tools/K02-12213-12214-12215-12216-Klein-Tools-Aviation-Safety-Wire-Pliers-by-Klein-Tools.aspx http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=2065&keyword=safety+wire+pliers

Fix the leaks first. Did you bleed the MC? If you don't do this you'll never get pressure to the calipers. I use speed bleeders but first I force fluid up to the MC from each caliper/cylinder using a pressure bleeder to get the lines well bleed. Afterwards, I replace the bleed screws with speed bleeders and give it a traditional bleed. There are those that will cry about air/moisture being induced this way. I've never had a problem and have followed this method for 25 years.

The thought of machining the companion flanges occured to me. The problem with those I have is a lack of depth to accomodate the hub and cage through full articulation. There isn't enough clearance there. That link is useful but it fails to mention the elusive cv joint I'm looking for. The list of BMW's is grey-market in the US and unsupported by parts dealers here. There may be the identical part in many of our models here. The problem is locating these cars or parts to physically check. The difference of 108mm vs 100mm is not worth the trouble really. I just thought I could keep things tighter and lighter. If I can find the time, I'll head over to a local Porsche dealer and see if they have something on the shelf. The 930 cv joint looks like the only viable path. One quick question, The 930 uses 10mm bolts vs the 8mm in the smaller cv joints so is the bolt pattern identical aside from the bolt size?