NewZed

Most of us call it an air flow meter - AFM. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3040 https://zcarsource.com/fuel-systems/fuel-injection-components/air-flow-meter-mass-sensor/

If you have a meter or test light you can also check for power at that terminal when the key is turned to Start. That's what the ignition switch does, sends power there.

The most common reason for just a click is dirty battery terminals. Make sure that they are clean and tight, at both ends of the cable. Watch out for those clamp-on terminals they go bad often. If you apply battery power to the starter solenoid terminal the starter should turn the engine. Make sure the car is in neutral. You can do this with the key off, using a piece of wire from either the battery terminal or right at the starter motor. Even a screwdriver works if you know what you're poking at. That will tell you if it's a switch problem or something at the starter or battery. BBB Industries has a good diagnosis video that might be worth watching. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=536171&cc=1209394&pt=4152&jsn=440

Pretty pretty pretty sure that @JMortensen looked at that in the past.

Dished pistons never have any "real" "quench". The turbo engines aren't quench chambers. "Quench" or "squish" is a word that is usually undefined and unmeasurable. Usually determined by eyeball. There's a theory, combustion gases squirting and swirling around, piston tops being cooled, etc., but I don't think that you'll find anything anywhere where anyone has shown that they compared "quench" to non-quench in an L engine and saw an effect. Most of the discussions center around the old "engineers did it it must mean something". No offense to anyone intended here. If someone has data that would be cool. While you're researching, look for stuff on the exhaust port liners and turbos.

Also hilarious when somebody joins a forum for the sole purpose of criticizing another person's post. Even funnier when they don't offer any sources or even a clue about who they are. Just another voice in the wind. Hear my opinion.

You're not going to blow a head gasket from excess crankcase pressure. Maybe a valve cover or oil pan gasket. The milky stuff would be because combustion gases contain water and you had blocked the path for combustion blowby to escape. Don't tear your engine down for the wrong reasons.

You are correct, you blocked off the crankcase vents and are allowing pressure to build in the crankcase. You could disconnect the hose to the side of the block and leave it open at the catch can. That would allow venting and the catch can might actually catch vapors before they exit in to the engine bay. You would want to block the port in the side of the block if you do that, otherwise you'll have oil vapors leaking our down there.

The B+ terminal where you would be measuring the 16 volts should be connected to the battery positive post through the lug at the starter. There is a fusible link in the circuit. Use your meter and check the circuit. Follow the wire from the alternator to the battery post. Check the fusible link. Looks like Nissan ran the circuit through the fuse box on the way to the starter. The ammeter is on a parallel circuit, called a shunt, that would not control current to the battery.

What brand of piston? Add connecting rod to the possible cause list. If the problem stays with #1. That's probably what you meant by hole. Interesting problem.

Looks like the guy spent all of his money and only had one carb left to work with.

Some 280ZX's come with an R180. It's the smaller weaker diff. Might be the one you had and that's why it disintegrated. The R200's are pretty tough. But if you really want something stronger, the answer is in the forum you posted in. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128217-ford-super-88-irs-swap-thread-rear-brakes-too/

This is more important than setting the TPS, it will never really run right if the spring tension in the AFM is not right. See if you can find the glue blob marks and rotate the wheel back so the glue blobs match. No idea why you decided to loosen that screw, you really don't want to mess with it. As far as the TPS, it depends on what type it is. Is it a switch or sensor? If you got the original with the car put it back on the 240SX TB does not add anything to performance. Here's a link to FSM's. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/9-factory-service-manuals/

You don't even need to push the clutch in. None of those modifications should affect the ability to start it. You'll probably need a multimeter and/or test light to get it working though. The old electrical connections and relays and various other parts tend to get crusty. You can get factory service manuals at various other web sites around the internet. You'll need one.

Oops. I missed that. But, ironically, it makes the numbers even more suspect without the verification. No offense to him, but he is selling parts. Let's see the dyno sheets or at least a description of how they were tested. Somebody with an LS swap did some burnouts? I don't think he's getting 400 ft-lbs from an L26 or L28, even with a turbo. You can find a lot of posts from the past making fun of the 800 HP claims for various axle options. Seemed picked from thin air.

Curious - how do you know this?

It's not certain that the 280ZXT CV axles are stronger than the u-joint halfshafts. If your main reason is durability. The two adapters are different designs. The WP requires replacing the inner flange of the axle. The Milkfab adapter fits in between the CV axle and the four hole u-joint axle flange. Milkfab is easier. The diff axles just pop out with applied force. I've used a lubed chisel between the diff housing and the axle flange if they're tight. They're held in with a circlip. https://milkfab-engineering.com/shop/ols/products/240z260z280z-cvaxlekit https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/billet-280zxt-cv-axle-companion-flange-adapters-27-spline-datsun-240z-260z-280z/

They're the same. You can check the FSM also for more verification.

It wouldn't fit both engines, they are completely different designs. A US market 300ZX would have the V6. People do swap RB's in to other cars though. Open the hood, a V6 looks very different from a straight six. That eBay store is based in Japan, and the engines used there are not the same as US market engines. http://www.japextrading.com/company.html

Don't be so sure that what seems like it should be actually is. Removing the small projections in the exhaust stream might not produce HP worth the work. I've not seen anyone actually showing that it's worth doing.

I wouldn't assume that the housing type guarantees the internals are the same. I like to browse Rockauto or Nissan sites and look at part compatibility. Click the part number in Rockauto and compatibility will show up. The Nissan site is a little more tedious. I chose 2008 for an example, a couple of parts. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2008,armada,5.6l+v8,1438226,drivetrain https://parts.nissanusa.com/p/Nissan_2008_Armada-SE-56L-V8-AT-4WD/Differential-Pinion-Bearing-Rear/89867147/38120-7S000.html

https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/12-260z/

@Derek probably knows. https://zspeed.com/product/zspeed-performance-cmak-v3-clutch-movement-alteration-kit-csc-clutch-slave-cylinder-csc-delete-kit-370z-g37-g35s-q60/

That topic and post comes up often. The solution works. p.s. two of the people in that thread are still active over there.

Where did you read it? Post some links. Is new online writing better than old online writing? Cuz the answers here will be online. Just saying...