NewZed

It's not certain that the 280ZXT CV axles are stronger than the u-joint halfshafts. If your main reason is durability. The two adapters are different designs. The WP requires replacing the inner flange of the axle. The Milkfab adapter fits in between the CV axle and the four hole u-joint axle flange. Milkfab is easier. The diff axles just pop out with applied force. I've used a lubed chisel between the diff housing and the axle flange if they're tight. They're held in with a circlip. https://milkfab-engineering.com/shop/ols/products/240z260z280z-cvaxlekit https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/billet-280zxt-cv-axle-companion-flange-adapters-27-spline-datsun-240z-260z-280z/

They're the same. You can check the FSM also for more verification.

It wouldn't fit both engines, they are completely different designs. A US market 300ZX would have the V6. People do swap RB's in to other cars though. Open the hood, a V6 looks very different from a straight six. That eBay store is based in Japan, and the engines used there are not the same as US market engines. http://www.japextrading.com/company.html

Don't be so sure that what seems like it should be actually is. Removing the small projections in the exhaust stream might not produce HP worth the work. I've not seen anyone actually showing that it's worth doing.

I wouldn't assume that the housing type guarantees the internals are the same. I like to browse Rockauto or Nissan sites and look at part compatibility. Click the part number in Rockauto and compatibility will show up. The Nissan site is a little more tedious. I chose 2008 for an example, a couple of parts. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2008,armada,5.6l+v8,1438226,drivetrain https://parts.nissanusa.com/p/Nissan_2008_Armada-SE-56L-V8-AT-4WD/Differential-Pinion-Bearing-Rear/89867147/38120-7S000.html

https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/12-260z/

@Derek probably knows. https://zspeed.com/product/zspeed-performance-cmak-v3-clutch-movement-alteration-kit-csc-clutch-slave-cylinder-csc-delete-kit-370z-g37-g35s-q60/

That topic and post comes up often. The solution works. p.s. two of the people in that thread are still active over there.

Where did you read it? Post some links. Is new online writing better than old online writing? Cuz the answers here will be online. Just saying...

One of the keys to getting a good result on sealing a tank is prep work and letting the coating cure completely. If you're of a patient fastidious nature you'll probably get good results, if you're impatient and tend to cut corners, probably not. There are threads around the internet about sealing tanks and how to get good results and which brands work best. They're all the same, don't have to be Z tanks. On the other hand, if there are no leaks and no large flakes of rust from the tank, just a good cleaning might be good enough. Good luck.

Don't overlook simple stuff like firing order. 1-5-3-6-2-4 counterclockwise.

Gummed up carbs seems possible. The pistons won't come up to let air in unless there is engine vacuum. They're not like butterfly blade carbs. You could prop the pistons open a bit to let air in. Don't squirt too much starting fluid though because it will probably rev like it's wide open. p.s. timing chains almost never skip. Very unlikely. p.s. 2 - if it's really been sitting 20 years you should probably remove the valve cover and oil things up. These engines are known for throwing rocker arms when valves get stuck after sitting for long times before restarting. And/or destroying cam lobes. Then you can check TDC/compression stroke too.

The cylinders could be too dry to create compression. You might squirt some oil in the cylinders and try again. It worked for me years ago on a 63 Bonneville that had only been sitting for one year.

There are problems with some of the wiring schemes out there, depending on what you're trying to do and what car you're working on. Relays can get wired to stay activated, draining the battery, or the brake warning check light will stop working, or the engine will keep running after you turn off the key.. Just posting in case you run in to problems.

I think the big one here is the zero for voltage. Even with a dead engine, the battery should supply battery level voltage and it should show on the meter. No voltage means no fuel pump power and no spark. I would focus on that, maybe a fusible link with a bad connection that got shook loose in your weed-trimming session. Check all of your power supply circuits. Unless you have one of those battery-free race cars that use a crank motor to start, the volt-meter should always show at least 12.6. Key on or off. Actually, the loss of connection to the meter is a clue, I think it's on the main black fusible link. A wiring diagram would confirm.

Somebody might be interested. At 15:50 if it doesn't autostart there.

Have you set the two splined ends of the different axles side-by-side and compared? Might be a clue there. Kind of sounds like the taper that lets the axle slip through the locking circlip is too perpendicular. Might have to grind the corners down a bit. p.s. if you find that that is the problem, check the edges of the groove that the circlip drops in to also. I have a vague memory of aftermarket shafts getting stuck in a diff because the ramp was too steep to let the circlip slide over it.

No offense intended but the early EFI systems are actually pretty simple. If you plan to be a real tuner it's a good system to learn on. Download the service manual and the EFI book and do the appropriate tests. If it starts but dies it seems like a fuel pump or pump control problem. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130.html http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/fsm.php http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/other.php

Don't overlook the transmission mounts. They have rubber bushings also that can sag and let metal to metal contact occur. One option that seems to work well is to use an RTz style mount with the diff nose hanging from the GM transmission mount. Then you can completely eliminate the bottom mount and any noise transmission there. https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html I went back through your thread and see that you didn't really address the diff mounting issues. A 1/8" piece of rubber? And you never came back with what happened if you insulated the rear deck. Also see that you've had the diff apart and reshimmed the carrier. Generally, from what I've read, almost any operation on the diff will cause it to be noisier. People have problems even just getting the pinion shaft nut retightened after a seal replacement without creating more noise. In sum though, you're having a problem that most people don't have. My setup with a stock open diff, unmolested, was quiet enough that my main noise concern was the noise the mirrors made in the wind when I had the window open. Not kidding. Overall, you're just doing small things to try to get rid of the noise, with gear oil, and thin pieces of rubber in strange places. It seems like what you have now is essentially the same as what you started with. Make some big changes. Good luck.

Actually it's the shift rod opening that needs to be opened up slightly for the thicker shift rod, along with the gear clearance and the counterbearing work. Here are some references. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html And Hybridz member Nigel had a Motortopia page but it is gone now. I think he might have moved the info somewhere else but can't remember where. @Nigel

This is rational. My diff noise reduced a surprising amount when I lined the back deck with bubble foil insulation. As Sanchez says, the less material you have over the metal deck the more noise will get through.

Actually, what you've done is eliminated all of the wires out to those subsystems as the source of the short circuit. So you can focus on the switch like Miles suggested. Power comes in on single wires, but it goes back to the battery from any metal point on the body, including the steering column. Something is providing the path back right at the switch. But, it must be after the switch contacts, or right at the contacts, since you have to turn the switch on before it shorts.

Unplug the connectors to each sub-system and try again. You might also use a meter and check for continuity instead of blowing fuses. Or put a test light across your fuse terminals. If it lights up there's current flowing. The plastic around the pins at the light sockets melts sometimes and the pins move together and short. Removing the bulb won't find that. And, besides that, removing the bulbs will not find a short circuit. The bulb is actually a resistive element. Disconnecting the each subcircuit will help you narrow it down.

vv

Also, if you "tighten up" the AFM you're actually reducing fuel. Implying the opposite of a vacuum leak. Maybe a blown FPR diaphragm?