NewZed

What brand of piston? Add connecting rod to the possible cause list. If the problem stays with #1. That's probably what you meant by hole. Interesting problem.

Looks like the guy spent all of his money and only had one carb left to work with.

Some 280ZX's come with an R180. It's the smaller weaker diff. Might be the one you had and that's why it disintegrated. The R200's are pretty tough. But if you really want something stronger, the answer is in the forum you posted in. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128217-ford-super-88-irs-swap-thread-rear-brakes-too/

This is more important than setting the TPS, it will never really run right if the spring tension in the AFM is not right. See if you can find the glue blob marks and rotate the wheel back so the glue blobs match. No idea why you decided to loosen that screw, you really don't want to mess with it. As far as the TPS, it depends on what type it is. Is it a switch or sensor? If you got the original with the car put it back on the 240SX TB does not add anything to performance. Here's a link to FSM's. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/9-factory-service-manuals/

You don't even need to push the clutch in. None of those modifications should affect the ability to start it. You'll probably need a multimeter and/or test light to get it working though. The old electrical connections and relays and various other parts tend to get crusty. You can get factory service manuals at various other web sites around the internet. You'll need one.

Oops. I missed that. But, ironically, it makes the numbers even more suspect without the verification. No offense to him, but he is selling parts. Let's see the dyno sheets or at least a description of how they were tested. Somebody with an LS swap did some burnouts? I don't think he's getting 400 ft-lbs from an L26 or L28, even with a turbo. You can find a lot of posts from the past making fun of the 800 HP claims for various axle options. Seemed picked from thin air.

Curious - how do you know this?

It's not certain that the 280ZXT CV axles are stronger than the u-joint halfshafts. If your main reason is durability. The two adapters are different designs. The WP requires replacing the inner flange of the axle. The Milkfab adapter fits in between the CV axle and the four hole u-joint axle flange. Milkfab is easier. The diff axles just pop out with applied force. I've used a lubed chisel between the diff housing and the axle flange if they're tight. They're held in with a circlip. https://milkfab-engineering.com/shop/ols/products/240z260z280z-cvaxlekit https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/billet-280zxt-cv-axle-companion-flange-adapters-27-spline-datsun-240z-260z-280z/

They're the same. You can check the FSM also for more verification.

It wouldn't fit both engines, they are completely different designs. A US market 300ZX would have the V6. People do swap RB's in to other cars though. Open the hood, a V6 looks very different from a straight six. That eBay store is based in Japan, and the engines used there are not the same as US market engines. http://www.japextrading.com/company.html

Don't be so sure that what seems like it should be actually is. Removing the small projections in the exhaust stream might not produce HP worth the work. I've not seen anyone actually showing that it's worth doing.

I wouldn't assume that the housing type guarantees the internals are the same. I like to browse Rockauto or Nissan sites and look at part compatibility. Click the part number in Rockauto and compatibility will show up. The Nissan site is a little more tedious. I chose 2008 for an example, a couple of parts. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2008,armada,5.6l+v8,1438226,drivetrain https://parts.nissanusa.com/p/Nissan_2008_Armada-SE-56L-V8-AT-4WD/Differential-Pinion-Bearing-Rear/89867147/38120-7S000.html

https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/12-260z/

@Derek probably knows. https://zspeed.com/product/zspeed-performance-cmak-v3-clutch-movement-alteration-kit-csc-clutch-slave-cylinder-csc-delete-kit-370z-g37-g35s-q60/

That topic and post comes up often. The solution works. p.s. two of the people in that thread are still active over there.

Where did you read it? Post some links. Is new online writing better than old online writing? Cuz the answers here will be online. Just saying...

One of the keys to getting a good result on sealing a tank is prep work and letting the coating cure completely. If you're of a patient fastidious nature you'll probably get good results, if you're impatient and tend to cut corners, probably not. There are threads around the internet about sealing tanks and how to get good results and which brands work best. They're all the same, don't have to be Z tanks. On the other hand, if there are no leaks and no large flakes of rust from the tank, just a good cleaning might be good enough. Good luck.

Don't overlook simple stuff like firing order. 1-5-3-6-2-4 counterclockwise.

Gummed up carbs seems possible. The pistons won't come up to let air in unless there is engine vacuum. They're not like butterfly blade carbs. You could prop the pistons open a bit to let air in. Don't squirt too much starting fluid though because it will probably rev like it's wide open. p.s. timing chains almost never skip. Very unlikely. p.s. 2 - if it's really been sitting 20 years you should probably remove the valve cover and oil things up. These engines are known for throwing rocker arms when valves get stuck after sitting for long times before restarting. And/or destroying cam lobes. Then you can check TDC/compression stroke too.

The cylinders could be too dry to create compression. You might squirt some oil in the cylinders and try again. It worked for me years ago on a 63 Bonneville that had only been sitting for one year.

There are problems with some of the wiring schemes out there, depending on what you're trying to do and what car you're working on. Relays can get wired to stay activated, draining the battery, or the brake warning check light will stop working, or the engine will keep running after you turn off the key.. Just posting in case you run in to problems.

I think the big one here is the zero for voltage. Even with a dead engine, the battery should supply battery level voltage and it should show on the meter. No voltage means no fuel pump power and no spark. I would focus on that, maybe a fusible link with a bad connection that got shook loose in your weed-trimming session. Check all of your power supply circuits. Unless you have one of those battery-free race cars that use a crank motor to start, the volt-meter should always show at least 12.6. Key on or off. Actually, the loss of connection to the meter is a clue, I think it's on the main black fusible link. A wiring diagram would confirm.

Somebody might be interested. At 15:50 if it doesn't autostart there.

Have you set the two splined ends of the different axles side-by-side and compared? Might be a clue there. Kind of sounds like the taper that lets the axle slip through the locking circlip is too perpendicular. Might have to grind the corners down a bit. p.s. if you find that that is the problem, check the edges of the groove that the circlip drops in to also. I have a vague memory of aftermarket shafts getting stuck in a diff because the ramp was too steep to let the circlip slide over it.

No offense intended but the early EFI systems are actually pretty simple. If you plan to be a real tuner it's a good system to learn on. Download the service manual and the EFI book and do the appropriate tests. If it starts but dies it seems like a fuel pump or pump control problem. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130.html http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/fsm.php http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/other.php