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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. The red wire then runs through connector C3 (location shown in the FSM). Maybe C3 has a problem.
  2. The power goes in to the switch at 7 and comes out at 6. If you're seeing voltage on 6 at the switch itself when you turn the headlights on, (position 2), but not at the fuse block, then there's a break n the red wire on its way to the fuse block. It's shown in the wiring diagram. There is a bullet connector for the red wire right at the steering column. Maybe it's disconnected.
  3. A noid light or two on the injector plugs might show something weird. If they don't pulse steadily and shortly while the engine idles that might be an indicator.
  4. Try banging on the side of the ECU and/or wiggling the connector cable where it attaches to the ECU. The ECU's have a problem with broken solder joints. Some thumping or twisting can fix it for a short while. If it does, it's a clue that the ECU has problems. People have reflowed the solder joints where the connector pins attach to the PCB to fix the problem. You might have noticed that at the end of the long list of diagnostic tests, if nothing works, "replace ECU". If you have a fellow Z friend maybe they have a spare ECU you can borrow. That's a quick test. They all will swap, from 75-78. The differences are minor, the connections all the same. I had a collection from 75 - 78 for a while and tried them all on my 76.
  5. Pin 13 at the ECU is the coolant sensor. The other side is ground. That's the quick test and it verifies that the ECU sees the sensor. The bullet connectors are oriented male and female if I recall correctly so you can only mix the two power supplies or the two ground. So really you're just choosing between two wires. Jump Pin 13 in the ECU connector to ground and see which of the two you're looking at has continuity to ground. People often get the thermotime and the coolant sensor plugs swapped because they're both EV1. And the thermotime switch runs through the cold start valve which is right there on the top of the intake manifold. If you want to follow the wires. The other EV1 would be the coolant sensor.
  6. If everything checks out okay except the pump check valve or the FPR (they often leak down rapidly too even though they control pressure just fine), then the rich mixture is more likely from the coolant temperature sensor. Might be worthwhile to do the electrical checks at the ECU connector, using the EFI guide book. or the FSM. The pressure leak-down might have distracted you from the real problem.
  7. The power comes in to the WR, passes through the switch to the red and heads on down to the fuse block. Look at at 7 and 6 on the color drawing above. So either the switch is not working, passing current/voltage, or there's a break in the red wire on its way to the fuse block. There's a path. Measure voltage along the path until you find the blockage.
  8. It's a clue that the problem is not in the ECU. The next thing you might do is to disconnect the power to the injectors. Just unplug all six. Then do the same test with the fuel pump. That will pressurize the rail and injectors but there will be no power to open them If there's still a leak then you'll know it's not electrical. If you try that you might as well disconnect the vacuum hose to the FPR. The FPR diaphragms are known to fail and fuel leaks directly in to the manifold through the vacuum hose. The fuel might not be coming from the injectors. Unplug the injectors, disconnect the FPR vacuum hose, activate the fuel pump, and see if fuel leaks from the FPR. You'll probably know something as soon as you remove the hose. It should be dry. If it is dry and the FPR is good and pressure still leaks down then you might just have stuck injectors. p.s. if you've had gasoline flowing in to the cylinders then your oil is probably diluted with gasoline. You should change it as soon as you solve the problem.
  9. When you turn the key on the injectors get power. The power is grounded through the ECU. You either have a short circuit on one/some of the wires on the way to the ECU from the injectors or you have a bad ECU. That is how they fail sometimes by shorting the injector circuit. A simple test would be to unplug the ECU connector and turn the key on. If pressure holds then there's no short. Or disconnect all of the injectors so you don't flood the engine and use noid lights to see if the injector circuits are grounded. The lights will light if there's a short in the wires or the ECU. You can also use a simple test light or make your own test light from tail light bulb.
  10. Do you have power to the fuse block now? Follow the diagram. If you have power all the way to the headlights then check the grounds on the other side. The headlights ground through the dimmer switch. The dimmer switch often gets gunked up over time and does not pass current. You can sometimes fix it by spraying contact cleaner in to the base of the turn signal stalk and working the lever.
  11. Here's a nice writeup showing the parts and describing the problems. https://www.zcar.com/threads/headlight-combination-switch-repair.311982/
  12. The power flows from the fusible links through the combo switch then down to the fuse blocks. It's probably the combo switch. Broken solder joint or pitted contacts. Pretty common. check the solder joint on top of the switch or pop the top off and check the contacts. Be careful there is a spring and a small plastic piece that are part of the mechanism. The running lights go through there too.
  13. This thread is way old. Welcome to the forum.
  14. I did not understand what you were describing before. Any chance that you can just twist the shaft housing using brute force? Might be that somebody already did and that's why it is not aligned correctly. Check the mounting bracket for broken welds. I don't know if it is brazed or tacked in to the mounting bracket but an examination should tell you something.
  15. Might be that the column has been partially collapsed. Read up on how it works. This is from the 1973 FSM. I don't know if it stays collapsed or rebounds.
  16. Koni is back. Not sure how they handle lowering, MSA probably knows. They might have springs to match. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-1034 https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-1033
  17. Just saw this on ClassicZCars.com. https://whiteheadperformance.com/
  18. Seems like you're solving the puzzle. Not sure what the big silver torpedo shape is at the hose fitting but it looks like your bleed screw is on the bottom. Better swap the calipers before trying to bleed. Bleed screw on top. Where the air bubble will be. Good luck. Whitehead just seems to be living off of their old reputation. I wonder if the original owners are even involved today. Maybe they'll survive, who knows.
  19. What do you mean by this? Here are AZC's own pictures. Looks like some good clues there. Your pictures just show some parts and a tape measure. Not clear what's not fitting. https://arizonazcar.com/brakes
  20. Are you using the factory EFI system? There's a bunch in this sub-forum - https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/
  21. Leaky booster sounds right. The symptoms fit. The IACV setup on your engine was just an attempt to use the computer to control idle. Won't hurt anything to leave it off. You need to start reading about aftermarket engine control. DIYAutotune has some good articles. Also, the Megasquirt pages. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/ https://megasquirt.info/educational/
  22. Yes, that looks like quite the assemblage of parts. I think that I see an idle air control valve (IACV), not sure, I pasted it below. That would be where the idle speed is controlled by computer. If it is completely closed and the idle is still high then the throttle blade bypass (idle air bypass) might be too far open. Or you have vacuum leaks. Look at your AEM software for an IACV setting. You could even just disconnect that hose and block the port to see if idle speed drops. If it doesn't check the throttle body for an idle speed screw. I wonder what that rubber hose is going to do under boost?
  23. Download an FSM and open the Engine Fuel chapter. You'll need all of the parts shown there if you want to go back to stock EFI. You need a lot more parts than what's in that ad. AFM, injectors, sensors, ECU, etc. Or aftermarket engine management. Make a list of what you have now. It's a complex project. Be careful with those aftermarket parts. Many of them have never been tested on a running engine before they're put on the market. They look neat but might not perform.
  24. Here's a link. I'd add a resistor. It's the heat that kills them so you probably haven't done any damage. https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/04/27/ask-away-jeff-smith-keep-killing-alternators/ " On most late model alternators, if the warning light circuit is not employed, running without that resistance in the circuit will cause the alternator to fail. On the plug-in connector, there are four connections labeled P-L-I/F-S. The connector labeled “L” is the only terminal (of these four) you will need to connect to the vehicle. If you choose to not connect a warning light in line (in series) with the wire terminated at switched (12v) power, then you must include a resistor. Our friends at Powermaster recommend an 82 ohm, 5-watt resistor. You can find these at an electronics store or online through a company called Mouser Electronics for less than $1."
  25. I am not 100% sure that you shouldn't have some resistance on that circuit. You might want to search around bit to be sure. Normally the Lamp offers resistance in to the alternator, and blocks the current coming back. It would be a bummer to overheat the circuit in the alternator and possibly damage it. You could put a resistor in line or even a light to be safe. Or, even better, a fuse. Or both. 10 amp would probably be about right.
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