NewZed

How about just making a cap to replace the distribution cap? You'll save the space and it will look about the same. Cut the top off of a distributor cap and fabricate something. A clear plate so you can the spinning disc inside might be cool. If you have the ZXT parts and the DIY wheel then you must be just thinking about appearance, or the bulk of the cap. You're talking about trading one cam sensor for another. There's no functional difference.

The FPR needs to be connected to intake manifold vacuum. One of those nipples on top of the manifold. The distributor vacuum advance needs ported vacuum, one of the ones underneath the TB. Also make sure that the large PCV hose underneath the manifold is connected to the large port in the side of the block and the PCV valve n the manifold. The hose from your valve cover is the other part of the PCV system and it looks correct. BAT is a good place to find detailed pictures of correct engines. You might be able to zoom in and find a few things. https://bringatrailer.com/search/?s=1978+280z

The shape looks familiar.

That's not a "tune". That is a substantial performance modification. What did you ask for? They didn't quote all of that to a guy who walked in and said "I want a tune on my r33". You must have given them some sort of power number to reach.

p.s. fusible link wire has a silicone insulation that does not melt or burn when the link melts. If you make your own links from regular wire they might save the circuit wiring but also might make a mess if they melt.

I was just pointing out an error in the illustration. For you and any other future viewers. I don't know what mean by gauge wire or bullet connector. The links on the MSA page already have female spade connections attached. I'd guess that they match the size on the fusible link block. You could just run two separate green link circuits, they don't need to be attached at one end. One to the red wire wire and to the blue wire. (L = blue on the Nissan diagrams.) Many battery positive cables come with a separate positive lead for exactly what you need to do here. Or you can use two eyelets on the clamping screws. Many ways to get it done. Soldering, butt joints, a terminal block (actually convenient for adding other loads), etc. Just an example on the cable, not sure on length - https://www.amazon.com/Deka-00297-Positive-Battery-Cable/dp/B000JYDHY8/ref=asc_df_B000JYDHY8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312632042117&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14175499931833392303&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033307&hvtargid=pla-493894808338&psc=1

The Red link info is wrong. It should say Brown and be 0.3. It's in the FSM's. Motorsport auto has links. https://www.thezstore.com/isearch3?searchterm=fusible Not clear what this means. The size is shown right next to the link. 0.69 mm^2. "what gauge wire/bullet connector to get"

That picture is terrible. Is that the transmission bell housing? Might be the block drainplug. I think I see teflon tape on it. That's the wrong stuff.

Click Account Setting and put your info in your Signature. It's a goofy way to do it but whoever designed the forum software set it up that way.

You might start a build thread with Jenvey in the title. There's a guy on the forum, can't remember his name, who has one already up and running. Put the details of what you're starting with in the thread. 280Z's already have a high pressure fuel system. You mentioned the air flow meter so it must be EFI already, right.

The Jenvey ITB system won't use the AFM. The carbon canister is at the end of the fuel tank vent. If you like the smell of raw gasoline then remove it. The distributor is part of an electronic ignition system. The only way to get rid of it would be to use a crank trigger to control spark. You'll want to start studying up on EFI. The Jenvey system doesn't include engine management (injector and/or spark control). It's just the mechanical parts, the throttle bodies. "Deleting" can come later if you want to have an engine that runs well. Study up on the "go" while your car's in the shop for the "show". Looks like an interesting project and collection of parts. Good luck. https://www.jenvey.co.uk/support/ https://www.jenvey.co.uk/support/faqs/

There are many ways to get it done. Just make sure that you follow the wiring diagram. People have got their +'s and -'s mixed up and created brand new problems. Nissan didn't use red and black like they do today. The positive power supply connection looks just like the negative. If you're putting an EFI 280Z back together you should learn how to use a multimeter and get the FSM and the 1980 EFI Guide. There will be electrical measurements to take. The 280Z is one of the best ways to learn about EFI. Today's cars are computerized but the fuel injection principles are the same as back in the 70's. The multimeter will be your best friend.

The part is not available anymore. You'll have to get two separate green links and make them work. The separate links are available on the various Z car sites. What happened to the one that came with the car?

Look underneath that metal box your arm is lying on and you'll see the EFI relay.

R is red, L is blue. Looks like the EFI fusible link connection. 1978 used two green ones, spliced together. Looks like you have to buy them separately now. They connect directly to the battery positive post.

Here's more on locating. You might have meant this already, I'm just posting for clarity, for the discussion. There's a latency involved. Kind of complicates things for racing. https://www.androidcentral.com/how-does-gps-work-my-phone - advice from an amateur woodworker (the guy that wrote the article above). Don't know how deep it is. I just know that things keep changing.

Not an expert in race stuff, but just a short observation. GPS stands for Global Positioning System and it uses satellites. Cell phones can use triangulation from cell tower signals. I have an early Garmin GPS device that actually shows how many satellite signals have been acquired and where in the sky they are. https://www.gps.gov/ Anyway, "GPS" for phones might not be real GPS. I do know that I can get a "GPS" location on my phone even though I don't show cell service, like on a hike in the hills. But I don't know if it 's because I have a cheap cell plan but it allows GPS for Google maps using cell towers, or if it uses satellites. And today we have Starlink. And Motorola's satellite system, the original plan for traveling portable phones for the masses, is still out there too.

The cowl is a high pressure area. Air will be forced through the hole when the car is moving. It will be worse when the windows are open, the faster the car goes the more air will flow.

What do mean by "Data Acquisition"? Things have advanced dramatically even in just the last couple of years, for "phone" apps and standalone devices. It's pretty incredible.

Might be the condenser on the fenderwell by the coil. It's actually more of an ignition system condenser. "Distributor" might be a translation error. The condenser would be a small silver cylinder with one wire stickling out one end. mounted to the fenderwell with a s ingle bolt (actually, by definition, a screw).

Nothing gets deleted. It's just a different shape, usually machined for more modern injectors. But it works exactly the same as the old one. It's just a tube that gasoline flows through. There's no CSV supply branch on the new rail so that would be why it's gone now. The "air sensor" is probably the auxiliary air regulator. It allows air past the throttle blade to give a high idle when the engine is cold. Without it you'll have to work the throttle until the engine warms up. No reason to remove it for a new fuel rail. It's actually a convenient device. It has hoses connected to it though it probably looks like "emissions crap", removed for a clean look and more primitive engine operation.

Lots of guessing here. Why don't you get some actual numbers and do the math? Fill tank, drive car known number of miles, refill tank with known quantity of gas, calculate gas mileage..

The antenna wire/cable is about 1/4" thick.

The dimmer switch is actually at the base of the turn signal stalk. (I see on the internet that some people are calling the dash light dimmer the dimmer switch). If you don't see power there it could be because both headlight bulbs are blown. https://www.ebay.com/itm/144728976380?epid=8043522240&hash=item21b284ebfc:g:oYEAAOSwFQZjK2Fc&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoHVMLaVrz1JBk6CI8nY0Kny%2Fm3axWicKVgZ4EjV6EYHyZMGbS4GQUFKn0u8zi5GrAgYmm0TNbU0XTu%2FTc%2FZeH8O0CLWh49TItqhKggk1l7%2BXByzxcj6z90ehTk5MUAL1%2BGqbBykmBM0c1WZR5fx3Gx8lN9X%2BReunD7qkHvlm3n7vW0YMJjXaoX5qWfiB5FVlop3Yl1ItICYOyvCRIjF%2FX9c%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6iH1sn7YA

After C3 it runs directly to the fuse block. Here is a link to a wiring diagram. Black and white or color. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/