NewZed

Check the fit of the injector in the rail. Can't tell if you're using o-ring or barb. If it's o-ring the leak is there, if it's barb it could be around the barb threads or the fit of the hose on the barb. But the tops of the injectors rarely leak. It's a fuel rail leak, not an injector leak.

Removing the plugs on an L engine is so easy it would be foolish not to do it. Take them out, disconnect the coil negative wire so that the wires don't spark and the injectors don't inject and spin the engine. Cover the holes with rags or paper towels to collect the spray. Beware of sparks, have a fire extinguisher handy. Check your oil for fuel. Injectors don't usually leak. Sounds more like the injector circuit was grounded and the injectors were held open electrically. Better check your wiring. Be careful.

Fusible links can still show voltage and continuity even though they're melted. A few strands of copper might survive. If they've blown they'll be discolored and crunchy inside. Take them off and see if the wire inside is intact. It seems like you might have done the not uncommon thing of reversing your postive and negative cables. Or you connected the negative cable to the wrong stud on the starter. You caused a direct short when you actuated the starter solenoid. The positive cable connects to the starter's copper solenoid stud. The negative cable connects to the starter mounting bolt. Don't assume that red is positive and black is negative. Check the + and - on the battery and follow the cable to its correct position. The fact that you are seeing continuity to ground on the positive cable might be because you fried the solenoid and it is shorted inside. You can test that with your meter by disconnecting the cables and measuring resistance from the starter solenoid positive terminal to the starter body, where it mounts to the transmission. Just some things to check.

The Nissan-made green injectors have a string of numbers on the plastic body. Like 0014xxxx, can't remember exactly. The numbers don't tell much except that they were made by Nissan. They used colors to identify flow rates. Bosch injectors have 0 280 150 105 or similar, the last two numbers can vary. The numbers identify the flow rate. Check for numbers.

If you get a Pallnet rail machined for o-ring injectors you'll have a wide range of salvage yard injectors to choose from. If you stick with barbs all there will be is aftermarket turbo injectors. The factory turbo injectors were a dark brownish purple color. The ones in your pictures look like NA injectors which were green or tan. If they've been open to the atmosphere for a while they might be rusted and sticking inside. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1982,280zx,2.8l+l6+turbocharged,1209361,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224

So, just to summarize - you want to switch from the 280ZX turbo distributor and DIY wheel to the Jeep sensor just to get rid of the big ugly distributor cap. It hasn't been clear why you wanted to make the swap. The reason is not function, it's appearance. Nothing wrong with that. It just hasn't been clear.

Found one. Hard to Google, the words cap and cover don't really work. Too bad they have Barney on them. The guy must have been a fan. https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/ignition/280zx-turbo-crank-angle-sensor-cover

When you say "sequential" do you mean coil-on-plug or sequential injection? People often use the same word for both. The distributor cap is sequential by design. One after another.

Post up the link, let's see it. I've seen the caps that cover the hole if you lose the distributor entirely. Can't remember seeing one that covers the functional cam sensor disc.

How about just making a cap to replace the distribution cap? You'll save the space and it will look about the same. Cut the top off of a distributor cap and fabricate something. A clear plate so you can the spinning disc inside might be cool. If you have the ZXT parts and the DIY wheel then you must be just thinking about appearance, or the bulk of the cap. You're talking about trading one cam sensor for another. There's no functional difference.

The FPR needs to be connected to intake manifold vacuum. One of those nipples on top of the manifold. The distributor vacuum advance needs ported vacuum, one of the ones underneath the TB. Also make sure that the large PCV hose underneath the manifold is connected to the large port in the side of the block and the PCV valve n the manifold. The hose from your valve cover is the other part of the PCV system and it looks correct. BAT is a good place to find detailed pictures of correct engines. You might be able to zoom in and find a few things. https://bringatrailer.com/search/?s=1978+280z

The shape looks familiar.

That's not a "tune". That is a substantial performance modification. What did you ask for? They didn't quote all of that to a guy who walked in and said "I want a tune on my r33". You must have given them some sort of power number to reach.

p.s. fusible link wire has a silicone insulation that does not melt or burn when the link melts. If you make your own links from regular wire they might save the circuit wiring but also might make a mess if they melt.

I was just pointing out an error in the illustration. For you and any other future viewers. I don't know what mean by gauge wire or bullet connector. The links on the MSA page already have female spade connections attached. I'd guess that they match the size on the fusible link block. You could just run two separate green link circuits, they don't need to be attached at one end. One to the red wire wire and to the blue wire. (L = blue on the Nissan diagrams.) Many battery positive cables come with a separate positive lead for exactly what you need to do here. Or you can use two eyelets on the clamping screws. Many ways to get it done. Soldering, butt joints, a terminal block (actually convenient for adding other loads), etc. Just an example on the cable, not sure on length - https://www.amazon.com/Deka-00297-Positive-Battery-Cable/dp/B000JYDHY8/ref=asc_df_B000JYDHY8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312632042117&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14175499931833392303&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033307&hvtargid=pla-493894808338&psc=1

The Red link info is wrong. It should say Brown and be 0.3. It's in the FSM's. Motorsport auto has links. https://www.thezstore.com/isearch3?searchterm=fusible Not clear what this means. The size is shown right next to the link. 0.69 mm^2. "what gauge wire/bullet connector to get"

That picture is terrible. Is that the transmission bell housing? Might be the block drainplug. I think I see teflon tape on it. That's the wrong stuff.

Click Account Setting and put your info in your Signature. It's a goofy way to do it but whoever designed the forum software set it up that way.

You might start a build thread with Jenvey in the title. There's a guy on the forum, can't remember his name, who has one already up and running. Put the details of what you're starting with in the thread. 280Z's already have a high pressure fuel system. You mentioned the air flow meter so it must be EFI already, right.

The Jenvey ITB system won't use the AFM. The carbon canister is at the end of the fuel tank vent. If you like the smell of raw gasoline then remove it. The distributor is part of an electronic ignition system. The only way to get rid of it would be to use a crank trigger to control spark. You'll want to start studying up on EFI. The Jenvey system doesn't include engine management (injector and/or spark control). It's just the mechanical parts, the throttle bodies. "Deleting" can come later if you want to have an engine that runs well. Study up on the "go" while your car's in the shop for the "show". Looks like an interesting project and collection of parts. Good luck. https://www.jenvey.co.uk/support/ https://www.jenvey.co.uk/support/faqs/

There are many ways to get it done. Just make sure that you follow the wiring diagram. People have got their +'s and -'s mixed up and created brand new problems. Nissan didn't use red and black like they do today. The positive power supply connection looks just like the negative. If you're putting an EFI 280Z back together you should learn how to use a multimeter and get the FSM and the 1980 EFI Guide. There will be electrical measurements to take. The 280Z is one of the best ways to learn about EFI. Today's cars are computerized but the fuel injection principles are the same as back in the 70's. The multimeter will be your best friend.

The part is not available anymore. You'll have to get two separate green links and make them work. The separate links are available on the various Z car sites. What happened to the one that came with the car?

Look underneath that metal box your arm is lying on and you'll see the EFI relay.

R is red, L is blue. Looks like the EFI fusible link connection. 1978 used two green ones, spliced together. Looks like you have to buy them separately now. They connect directly to the battery positive post.

Here's more on locating. You might have meant this already, I'm just posting for clarity, for the discussion. There's a latency involved. Kind of complicates things for racing. https://www.androidcentral.com/how-does-gps-work-my-phone - advice from an amateur woodworker (the guy that wrote the article above). Don't know how deep it is. I just know that things keep changing.