NewZed

It doesn't need to turn off after the engine is running. But you might need to install a diode in the circuit. When the alternator is charging the current flows the other way. That's why the Charge light goes out. It can keep the engine running after you turn the key off because it's feeding the system through the wire. Look up the 240Z alternator swaps to see what I mean. Check the wires in the external regulator plug to see if one of them is switched power. I seem to remember that one of them was, besides the L wire. I had a 76 too. Here are a couple of links showing the diode. If you find a switched power wire at the old plug area you could probably just wire it up there. Or try it without a diode and see what happens. You can always drop the clutch while in gear to kill the engine if it stays running. https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-alternator-upgrade/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/46888-240z-alternator-upgrade-instructions-w-pictures/

Yes. You'll need to supply switched power to that terminal on the alternator.

There's also the Jeep CAS. One link below, of several. Why are you using the head with the smaller valves? There are several versions of the E88, I think, with different combustion chamber sizes. Make sure you're getting what you want. The E88's popularity comes mostly from when it was an upgrade for L24's. The L28 N42/N47/P79/P90's have the biggest valves of all of them. Valve size = flow. Good luck with the project. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/head.htm

Not really clear what you're suggesting. "Pigtail" really just means "twisty wires that aren't connected to anything". The ZX distributor module has a power wire and a coil negative wire. You can get rid of the ballast resistor. The two wires that might need to be connected (spliced) would be the Start power and the Run power from the ballast resistor. On the ZX module the pins are marked B and C. B is battery power and C is coil negative. So, you can connect Run and Start at the coil positive and run a jumper to B on the module, and then just connect C to coil negative. That will supply the coil and the module with power and the ground for the coil through the C pin. Make sure that the distributor body has a good connection to ground. That is how the module gets its ground. Through the distributor body. Most distributors have a separate black wire that grounds the distributor body, even though the mounting bolts should be enough. And, did you get the pedestal with the distributor? If not, ignition timing will be off. Here's a link with a lot of extra information. It's a good reference but goes way deeper than you need to go. Although you will want to disconnect the old module by the fuse box. Good luck. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

I think I see the reason that Whitehead might take extra long on yours. If they can't keep up with normal diff builds then your special requests are going to add even more time. Good luck.

I'm not getting a clear message out from what you're writing. You said you can't find the pinion bearings but Rockauto has a big selection. You could buy one set of each and still save over Whitehead. Now you say you want Japanese parts. Maybe you're being too picky. Sakura Garage could probably get it done or help you find parts. Or ArizonaZcar. You'd need to know what you want though. Whitehead is just a bad choice. You should cancel your order and start over. https://www.sakuragarage.com/home https://arizonazcar.com/

If you gave a little more info on your location somebody might know of a shop that could do the whole thing for you, in the states.

There's a guy on the forum who helped develop an LSD that should work. Rockauto is a good place to get part numbers and parts. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1992,240sx,2.4l+l4,1209013,drivetrain,differential+pinion+bearing+/+race,2264 https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127169-mfactory-r200-helical-lsd/#comments http://www.teammfactory.com/catalog/mfactory

Get the battery load tested. Sounds like it's dead, like unchangeable, won't hold a charge.

Aren't you guys getting a written receipt when you hand over your money? Most businesses have a simple written agreement that explains how they handle disputes and refunds. You can also dispute a charge on a credit card. I think that if you have a written agreement before you make the payment they will be much more likely to give a refund. If there's no agreement then you're stuck with the time limit on your card or Paypal. Credit cars bill monthly so anything with a six week lead time should not be paid for without a written agreement about timing and refunds. These guys are just taking advantage of people that don't know the ins and outs of buying expensive items. No offense intended. But this applies to more than just Whitehead. It sure does look like Whitehead has gone to the dark side though. And it seems to be working for them. They don't need a good reputation, just a flashy web site. People keep sending them money.

Measure the diameter of the shaft, go to the hardware store, and find a cap that fits and looks good. There are a variety, metal and plastic. https://www.superiorcomponents.com/fasteners/plastic-nut-caps#1 Or find a metal acorn nut and glue it on. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acorn_nut

Same as any other powerful engine.

Break the ignition system down in to it individual parts and you might get better ideas. The "distributor" is more than just a device to move spark around to the plug wires. It creates a signal to trigger the ignition module. See "variable reluctor" That's what the magnet is for. If there's no signal, there will be no spark. If the ignition module gets the signal but does not make and break the coil circuit then there will be no spark. If the coil circuit is made and broken correctly by the ignition module and trigger system but there's a problem with the coil there will be no spark. As far as the alternator goes it doesn't really come in to play until the engine has started. If the engine cranks normally, at good speed, like it does in your videos, then the battery must have a good charge. The non-moving tach needle is a very important clue. You just have to use it. The tach needle moves when the coil discharges. If it doesn't move it's either broken or the coil is not discharging. In other words the tach needle is moved when spark happens. No needle movement means no spark. Just watch your videos and ask yourself what's going on.

I described all of that in my post. Good stuff in the link also. Common problem. Good luck.

In your videos the starter and battery sound fine. If you watch the tachometer needle it gives a pretty good clue that you're either losing power to the coil and distributor or the ignition module is going bad. The needle does not budge when the engine is not starting, it should be showing the engine's RPM while trying to start. You can test the first possibility, loss of power to the ignition system, by watching a meter attached to the positive lead of the coil with the key on and when you try to start. Voltage should be maintained above about 10 volts. If you don't have power there then focus on that. It would be worthwhile to clean the connections to the coil and ignition module and see if things improve. The old E12-80 and E12-92 modules are known to go bad eventually though. Wouldn't be a surprise if that was the problem, although they usually fail when they get hot. p.s. the magnet under the stator ring is known to break on those distributors also. That might cause a low trigger pulse to the module at starting RPM. That kind of fits your symptoms. It's not obvious, you have to remove the breaker plate and lift the stator ring to see it. Also, one reason the magnet breaks is because the shaft bushings on those distributors wear out allowing the 6 pointed reluctor wheel to contact the stator ring. Here is a good resource showing some of those things. The result of a worn out bushing is shown way down at the bottom. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

Good luck with wherever this is going. It's possible that the engine did spin, but if it did the chain tensioner has certainly popped out of its bore. You'll never get the head installed with the chain properly on the cam sprocket without pulling the front cover. Good luck. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-ebook/dp/B006VUICHG

Look down the hole at the front of the block. There's probably a pile of chain down there. Might as well pull the engine, buy the "Rebuild" book, and save yourself a lot of trouble and money. Good luck.

Looks like you're not reading what people are writing. No offense. These aren't 60's era small block chevy engines. Overhead cam. You can't spin the engine with the head off, normally.

Your description doesn't make sense. You said it's apart. Then you said that you can rotate the engine (probably meant can't). Then you said that you did something that could only be done with the head off. If the head is off you can't rotate the engine unless the front cover and timing chain are also off. If you're trying to spin the engine in the car with the head off but front cover on then you might have jammed the timing chain in to the gears. How about a picture of the engine in the car? That will tell something.

You're welcome. I spent some time working on the opposite problem, the pump cutting off at low PRM when the engine was cold, and got familiar with the system. Don't mess around with the spring adjustment if you start thinking you need to adjust fuel-air ratios. There are better ways.

Yes, the contact in the AFM provides power to the fuel pump relay, which is right above the hood latch pull. The 78 engine would not affect the fuel pump control unless a 78 AFM was used that does not have the contact. Many 78 AFM's do have the contacts but they are not used in the 78 cars. But they will work in 76, I had one on mine. The black cover just pops off by hand, it might have a little sealant on it. It's the quickest way to see where you're at on the problem scale. Not uncommon for people to rewire things though. If there's a vacuum leak the AFM tends to run closer to closed and can cut fuel. People create new problems trying to solve others.

Take the black cover off of the side of the AFM and see if the fuel pump relay contact switch is opening when he AFM blade closes. That's what cuts power to the pump. It's shown in this link. You can bend the thick rod to adjust it. Move the counterweight and you'll see what is supposed to happen. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

Do you have a picture or a link to the bearing? Why would a manufacturer put teeth on a throwout bearing surface? Seems odd. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1994,300zx,3.0l+v6+turbocharged,1209787,transmission-manual,clutch+release+bearing,1968 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,transmission-manual,clutch+release+bearing,1968

The car will roll and corner and brake and absorb bumps with the differential completely removed. This would require a hill or towing, of course. There is no functional connection between the differential and the wheel axles. You could install a Ford 9 inch or a long nose R200 or a short nose R200 or an R180 and it will have zero affect on the probability of a wheel falling off. The only connection between the wheel axles and the differential are the drive axles, aka half-shafts. There is no "mount" that would serve any purpose in connecting the differential and the wheel hubs. The cars have independent rear suspension. Thoughful_edit resurrected an old thread and made an absurd comment. Why are you trying to defend it? It makes no sense. The differential will have absolutely no affect on the probability of a wheel falling off and the car crashing in to a stone wall. Gibberish. The purpose of the forum is partly education in addition to entertainment. My original short comment was meant for education. I really did not expect such resistance to understanding how things work. As far as being "willfully obtuse", well-done on the grammar, but I think that you're projecting. It's actually a bit scary when somebody keeps repeating nonsense and seems to believe it.

Defend this calZ. Good luck. Here's a drawing to assist in the discussion. #1 is commonly known as the "diff". #6 is the wheel, or hub, axle. #7 is commonly called the half-shaft. It connects the diff axle shaft to the hub axle. Where the wheel mounts should be obvious. Let's see where this "mount" would be installed.