NewZed

Delrin would probably creep or deform and you'd lose your gland nut torque. Metal's a better option.

If you don't have a meter, a test light will do. Anything besides just turning the key and wiggling wires. Measure the power paths (aka crcuits) and see where the break is. First confirm battery voltage across the posts themselves. Then across the cable terminals attached to the posts. Then the cable ends at the starter. Starter lug to engine block. Starter lug to body panel. Things like that. You're not even using the most basic troubleshooting method.

The auto parts store guys will usually pull a CV shaft out to let you look at it. Awkward phraseology...

He installed adjustable control arms at the same time. So, still undefined. Just saying, make sure. Also, it's not clear how the kit works with bolt in R180 axles. How do you attach that adapter to the splined shaft? I don't know the R180's very well though, so maybe it's obvious. Or maybe you need the truck diff. A phone call would probably clear it up.

Got a meter? Measure resistance of the cable. Measure secondary circuit resistance with the cable inserted in the coil. Seems like you're stuck on some pretty basic stuff.

Ermish looks new to the scene. A 510 guy getting in to the Z market. Better be careful on length, there are no signs on the site that he's actually used those axles in a Z. Improper length is where everyone gets burned.

Actually, you'd want to know how many amps the ECU lets pass through the wire. There might be resistance on the ECU side and 12 volts direct from the battery might just burn the wire up. But if there is resistance on the MAFS wire then it's probably controlled there and a switch would work. That speed sensor controls other things also though, like fuel cut during deceleration. Without fuel cut, you'll get the gassy smell. Kind of defeating the purpose of a more modern system. Look through the EFEC chapter and see how many things have "speed sensor" as a control parameter. Actually, there's a table on EFEC-33 (1987) that shows 4 things that use the speed sensor.

This may be why so many people seem to get this swap "almost right" as far as the way the engine runs. A bunch of dirty MAFS wires out there.

Here's the two side-by-side. Same parameters, just a better explanation.

This is interesting. Nissan rewrote the chart for 1987 MAFS self-cleaning operation. Don't know if the chart was wrong or they changed the operation parameters. I'm guessing that the 1984 chart was wrong and/or confusing. You didn't say which Z31 you had so you'll have to draw your own conclusions. Looks like the basic design is that it cleans the wire as long as three conditions are met - engine speed went above 1500 RPM, vehicle speed went above 12 mph, engine not overheating, and engine shut off normally. As soon as the engine is turned off, it waits 5 seconds and cleans for one second. So it looks like you need the speed sensor if you want the self-cleaning to work.

I think that the diagram and test description imply that the ECCS sends 1 second of power through Pin 12 of the 20 pin connector which then passes through pins C and F of the MAFS, to ground. But it may not be full battery voltage so a switch may not work. Best to let the ECCS do it for you. Basically, Pin 12 needs to be connected to either pin C or Pin F of the MAFS. That wire 33 is probably connected to one of those. But it's unclear from the chart if all three conditions need to be met or just one. Looks like all three but who knows. So your question about if you need the speed sensor is still open.

Actually there's still some figuring to do, but that should get you closer.

Should be enough in these two pictures. Either use the ECCS wire, or hook up a switch and count - one one thousand.

Works now. Take the distributor out and see if the drive shaft, bottom of the hole, is connected to the crankshaft. If it turns freely by hand, you'll have to remove the oil pump. Apparently the shaft can slip down inside the drive gear. Another Hybridz member had that happen. So you might find that the shaft won't turn, but the tang doesn't stick up far enough to catch the distributor. You might also find that your distributor is about to fall out and has lifted up out of its mount.

Tried ti reply to this before and it wouldn't post.

Actually, the guy that welded the shaft may not have tried it out. #13 - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112092-j30-shortnose-vlsd-into-open-longnose-r200/ Found the original too - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110563-nissan-vlsd-into-a-long-nose-r200-axle-options/

Can't remember who it was but a Hybridz member extended the inner portion of the shaft that needed to be long by cutting and welding on another splined section. It's all torsional inside the diff so the flexing and stress riser issues you'd see on the outside seem diminished. He said it worked fine and hasn't been back to report a failure so who knows. Welding the shafts affects the carbon content of the steel and the heat-treatment. Most shops don't like to do it so you'd probably have to waive your right to complain if you had flanges welded on the outside.

No effect. Once contact is made, the two sides are essentially one piece of metal, as far as electricity is concerned..

He said it has a Holley 390. Is that your distributor or a picture from the internet? Looks like a ZX distributor. If you can't check the timing at least make sure the triggering points are aligned in the distributor. Or about 10 degrees retarded with everything at TDC. That will give you clue about timing. I've seen Chevy small blocks pop back through the carb when a cam lobe was flat. I'd imagine a burnt/warped intake valve might pop back also. Valve lash will decrease as valves sink in to their seats from wear. The old unleaded gas problem. Focus on what the valves are doing. The sprocket problem is odd. Maybe it's on backward. Some of the aftermarket sprockets don't have the mark.

No apologies necessary. I was just pointing out how obscure your question is. In the picture I posted in #4 it shows GY (green with a yellow stripe) as a Start Circuit. I can't see why you would connect that to the blower unless you connected it to an NC (normally closed) relay that opened to cut off blower power. The GY wire is supposed to have power at Start only so you'd have to measure with a meter to know if it was working.

I see it as splitting up to two locations, one a green/blue wire. No connection to the blower motor. But the diagram is hard to follow without losing track. Regardless, you're digging in to a problem almost nobody has ever had in an area nobody really wants to browse around in - wiring diagrams. Looks to me like it should only have power at Start though, maybe it switches off instrument panel power or lights something up. Not sure what R means, if that is an R. But, a look at the Starting section of the FSM might find something.

Disconnect it and see what happens. If bad things happen, you need it.

Looks like there are several components that could kill blower power if they failed. Probably not an ignition switch problem though because that would kill power to other important things.

He said it happens with the engine not running, so no spinning of distributor parts. Weird problem. For the coil to discharge the primary coil circuit has to be broken, after being energized. It could happen either on the supply side or the ground side (ignition module side). I think that even the early ignition modules had a safety circuit designed in that would cut the power after a certain amount of time to save the coil from overheating. Not sure if happens slowly to avoid a spark or quickly, giving one spark. Maybe it's failing and not cutting off completely. Anyway, (Edit - Maybe ) it's your ignition module. You could determine if it's power supply or ignition module grounding by disconnecting the power to the coil positive and running a jumper directly to the battery positive. Turn the key on so the module is powered and see if it still sparks. If it doesn't spark anymore, (maybe) there's something cutting power on the supply side, maybe the ignition relay. If it does still spark, (maybe) there's something happening on the grounding side. Could also probably be the coil heating up and opening circuit. Try disconnecting both post wires on the coil and wiring directly to battery and ground. Don't leave it that way too long, it will get hot. If it still sparks, it's the coil. This might actually be the most likely cause.

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