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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    Seems like a lot of rust, considering the number of times you rotated things to make sure they weren't bound. Maybe you got lucky. Or maybe your wrench was set to inch-pounds.
  2. NewZed
    Clicking/ticking is the common bad CV joint noise. On front wheel drive cars you hear it all the time as they turn. You said that you had an R200 and CV axles and replaced it with a different R200 (the CLSD) and a different set of CV axles. Seems like you could put the other CV axles in, and give it a short test drive. If the noise stays it's probably the diff. If not, you damaged some axles.
  3. NewZed
    If you can't see the plate on the top look at the area around the speedo cable. Here are two pictures I took a while ago of my 76 4 speed and 78 5 speed. Trying to find a way to tell them apart from below. The 78 5 speed case is almost straight as it passes the speedo cable. 76 has a noticeable bend.
  4. NewZed
    How are the bushings in the shifter? If they're bad they'll let the lever move too far and it might bind up before it moves far enough. There's a round plastic one on the bottom and two at the fulcrum pin.
  5. NewZed
    You didn't fabricate some sort of flywheel locking device in order to torque the bolts did you and forget to remove it? You said "lock flywheel". Leave something in the oil pan? Get the oil pickup tube jammed in the crankshaft? You're looking where no work has been done. 1) Drop oil pan 2) Impact gun + thread on pulley puller to remove crank pulley bolt + washer 3) Remove front timing cover (anything else while the cover was off?) 4) Replace crank snout seal (seal installation screwed up somehow?) 5) Bolt front timing cover back in place with new gaskets (something got jammed?) 6) Bolt in AZC oil pan with new gasket (has it been removed and things checked yet?) 7) Lock flywheel and torque crank pulley bolt + washer back to ~100 ft-lb with loctite blue (flywheel locking method?) You have an odd situation...
  6. NewZed
    Just curious, but what exactly is getting pressure when you press the axle in to the differential? Does the internal clip let go and the axle moves inward? Or does the clip hold in that direction and the pressure is on the inner spline? Inner bearing races, axle dust shield? I don't have a good picture in my head of what's connected to what, or what the dimensions are.
  7. NewZed
    Does the lever move up in to the spot for 5th but nothing happens? Or does the lever just not go to that spot? Are you sure it's really a 5 speed? People switch knobs often.
  8. NewZed
    Undo the stuff you did between works and doesn't work. Damper pulley, oil pan, whatever else. That's what I'd do. Damper still looks most likely since it's on the crankshaft.
  9. NewZed
    Could also be that somehow you've jammed the damper up against the timing cover.
  10. NewZed
    If I'm reading right, the actions above are the last significant actions between when the crankshaft would turn and now, when it doesn't. Seems like the damper (I think you're calling it the crank pulley) reinstallation is the most likely cause. Maybe you jammed the woodruff key past its keyway in to whatever is behind it (I don't know what's behind it, I think more keys and keyways). 100 ft-lbs can do some jamming. Might try loosening the damper bolt or just removing the damper, then using the propeller shaft to rotate the engine. Put the car in gear and roll it. Inspect the woodruff key slots for damage first, might have to be fixed anyway.
  11. NewZed
    A too-long bolt in the thermostat housing will pin the timing chain guide to the chain and sprocket. The threaded hole is open on the back. Not uncommon. Don't forget the belted accessories also. Alternator, AC compressor, water pump and fan.
  12. NewZed
    You said that the clutch works. Not sure how you tested it, but if you have someone press the pedal while you try to turn the engine that should tell you if the transmission input shaft is bound up. Unless the input shaft is jammed inside the crankshaft pilot bearing, disengaging the clutch should leave you with the engine only. If it turns with the clutch pedal down, bit not with it up, then the input shaft is stopping the movement. The transmission output shaft should turn while in gear also, if the clutch is disengaged, since it's the engine and the transmission that are being engaged and disengaged. Except for the pilot bushing. In short, a working clutch system should separate the potential problem areas. Edited - spelling
  13. NewZed
    Can't remember exactly where I saw it, two places I think, but it was very recently: check that you didn't use an overlong bolt to install the slave cylinder. Apparently it's possible to jam the bolt end in to the pressure plate cover that way.
  14. NewZed
    Actually he said the post at the top of the picture, the "A" post, was disconnected. That would explain the lack of charging. He may have fixed that but doesn't realize that he probably blew a fusible link when the wire touched body metal as it was dangling around, shorting the battery. Wiring issues can get out of control.
  15. NewZed
    Here's a picture of the older switch. I really don't know how the older ones work, I've just seen that they need to be reset if they get tripped. Maybe they have a tendency to get stuck? My 76 had the switch and it fixed itself as soon as I fixed the problem (calipers on wrong sides). The OP never said what year car he's working with.
  16. NewZed
    Nissan changed the switch design sometime in the first few years of the 240Z. You're showing the newer design.
  17. NewZed
    MC's have been known to destroy their seals when they see a new part of the bore. The booster just amplifies the force from your leg, Brake fluid is denser than air. There must be some pedal pressure, there's a spring and you're also pushing on the rear brake system.
  18. NewZed
    I got the impression that the TPS should have a value at closed throttle and that MS is then calibrated to that value. In other words, you would tell MS that "6" is closed, and that whatever value the TPS puts out at wide open is 100%. Most sensors always put out a signal and the control system is calibrated to what you want those values to mean.
  19. NewZed
    Here's a clue.
  20. NewZed
    One cable or two? Maybe you're putting them on the wrong terminals. You're not really using that meter are you? You said you "put the meter on the ignition coil" but didn't report any numbers. You can check for a short to ground before you connect the battery. No need to look for sparks.
  21. NewZed
    Hybridz member Nigel has done some nice work in the past. Wrote up the 71C transmission swap for the S30. Seems to know his stuff and he's dug in to the situation you're currently in. Worth a read for sure, maybe the next group. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113199-yet-another-rear-drum-to-disk-conversion-option/
  22. NewZed
    So what are you seeing that's different between the two? Sounds like you think it's a clocking problem, since you mentioned drilling holes. There's a whole calibration procedure described in the Megamanual.
  23. NewZed
    Missed the part about "you were tempted". Thought you already did it. There's a whole long procedure for testing the external regulator in the Engine Electrical chapter. But, it sounds like your L wire has just lost it's connection. I think that is described in FSM also. The simplest of checks is to just turn on the key and check for battery voltage at the T plug on the alternator. When working on electrical stuff, your first action is always to check that power is getting to where it's supposed to be getting. Once you actually use a meter for more than 5 minutes and either confirm power, or confirm no power, you'll never post again about "maybe I should check for power". It will be incomprehensible to not use the meter first. Some people carry meters in their car.
  24. NewZed
    I think that the lines were all essentially the same over the years. Probably the same for all Datsun/Nissan/Infiniti platforms. It's the actuating cylinder sizes that affect pedal effort. The metal lines just allow fluid movement so size doesn't matter. The booster has to fit the mounting studs and clear other parts. The master cylinder should be matched to whatever it's pushing on. An all disc setup would need a different MC than discs and drums to get a good balance of travel, effort, and stopping power.
  25. NewZed
    On 1 - you didn't say anything about rewiring to use an internally regulated alternator. It's not just a bolt-in and go swap. On 2 - have you read page BE-42? At least that's the page in the 1976 FSM. The 1975 version online doesn't seem to have a BE chapter. No signs of any meter measurements either. Take the gauge out and measure at the plug if you can't find the source wire.
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