NewZed

Is it running rich again or is it a new problem? "crap" covers a lot of ground. It's usually best to check your circuits at the ECU connector, then you'll know that the connections, the component, and the wiring is all good, from and to the ECU.

Could be worn hardware. I had a similar problem. Take the switch apart and bend/twist the rod inside the switch that transfers the twist of the key to a twist of the electrical switch. Use two pair of pliers. Bend/twist it in the direction of starting and it will then start the car before it runs out of travel. If that's the problem. Once you have the switch apart, turn the electrical portion with a screwdriver to see if it starts correctly. If so, the fix above should work. If not, you might need a new electrical switch.

The first thing that you should do is remove your home-made fusible link, read up on fusible links, and make or get a new one. Once your wiring burns up, you're in a whole new painful world, if the car survives. (Nevermind, you edited out your 10 gauge wire remark. Did you just switch from 10 gauge to 60 amp wire? You shouldn't use a higher capacity wire either, get some 40 amp). Edit - if it's the green one from the battery, it's the EFI harness power. Proper fuel pressure is key to the EFI system. Measuring that would be good. Intermittent problems are hard to diagnose though, so your occasional "bog" could be difficult to cure. And the pump running could be due to someone bypassing the contact switch in the AFM or actually bending it so that it stays closed all the time. You can pop the black cover off of the side of the AFM to see how it's working. Someone might have rewired the pump power also. Reading the Engine Fuel section in the service manual will save you a lot of time and money, in the long run.

Combined, the statements made about the car don't really fit. It would be worthwhile to define the problems better, it will help you understand their causes. - runs amazingly - afm may have an issue - will run and drive but for a short time - bogs down at around 2k and wants to die And it is important that one of the fusible links was burned. Did you find the short that caused it, and fix it, and what kind of wire did you use to make a new one? Lots of ways to go wrong here.

Specs. are in the service manual.

I've read that the HEI modules tend to break if you forget to ground through the mounting holes. The electronics are sensitive to that. If yours wasn't grounded it may already be toast. Good luck with it, don't forget to check your grounds with a meter.

The blue mystery wire might be for your tach. Have you looked at the wiring diagram to see where the blue wire from coil (-) goes? The thing that looks like a condenser is a condenser. Did you ground the HEI module through the mounting holes? That has to be done for it to work right. skittle is usually pretty helpful over on zcar. Have you posted over there? By the way, your pictures are huge. Downsizing them would help.

It might actually be a condenser (capacitor). Why don't you post a picture or copy a page from the FSM here so that people know what you're talking about. After "power transistor condensor looking thing" in the first post, it's hard to tell what you're looking at.

The colors listed on the AtlanticZ site seem to be correct, from what I've seen on various cars, as long as they're stock Nissan, which yours are, by the Nissan symbol. I don't think those are turbo injectors. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/index.html

www.xenons130.com/reference It's in the lc chapter. Lubrication and Cooling.

This doesn't make any sense. Probably wasting money, buying a new AFM.

Might be wasting your money. You have a stock FPR on the rail now, right? Many auto stores have a "loaner" program for tools - http://oreillyauto.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/150/session/L3RpbWUvMTM0NjAzNDY4My9zaWQvWV9UX3NJNGw%3D

I would also check CHTS resistance at the ECU connector. Make sure resistance is right for its temperature. There are charts of resistance v. temperature in the 280Z FSMs if the ZX FSMs don't have them. The injectors have no order, it's batch/simultaneous injection.

Here's a couple of resources - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ http://www.xenonz32.com/reference.html

Doesn't your SBC have a mechanical pump bolted to it? I believe that they are designed to self-regulate pressure for carb use.

Saw this CL ad from Eugene OR today and thought someone here might be interested. Looks like it's from a 510 guy, don't know if he's a Hybridz member or not - http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/3227089492.html

It's probably like my 76, controlled by vacuum. It's operation is described in the AC section of the FSM but you probably just lost vacuum to the reservoir bottle from the intake manifold. I had the same problem, twice, once when a flow restrictor to the vacuum bottle got clogged (it's inline, black and circular, held on with a metal clip to the "magnet" valve bracket) and again when the tiny hose from the manifold split.

I can't say for sure but the word "noise" may have originally been meant to refer to electrical noise and been layman termed down to mean noise though the radio speakers. A side effect of electrical noise. Electrical "noise" tends to cause problems for sensitive devices. Anyway, I just put it out there as an option. I've also read of using a diode on the tach circuit for a similar purpose, to condition the signal to the tach. There's probably someone out here who knows much more about electronics and electrical theory who could help, if you posted a video or gave really good description of what the tach is doing. You said "not working" in #29 but didn't give any more details. If the needle is twitching, there's something there, you just have to find a way to use the good part of the signal and get rid of the rest.

You should list the year and type of car and the part numbers for the Tokicos.

It was the typical condenser used up by the coil. I think that it was 0.5 microfarads, if I remember and read my meter right (500 nanofarads). An alternator condenser would probably serve the same function (I just measured one recently and it was 0.7 mF), available at most auto parts stores. It's backyard electronics engineering though, I don't really know what I was doing. But I don't think it can hurt.

The S130s came with R180's or long-nose R200's.

Maybe you just paid $650 for a front cover. They should swap. If the only thing wrong with the 82 engine is a head gasket, then it's labor and gaskets to get back on the road. There's always small claims court, as far as trying to get some money back. Might be worthwhile, if you think you can build a case.

I wonder if you could have the metal sealing surface plated and/or polished so that the seal would work better. The dust must be sitting in some porosity or machining marks that the seal doesn't wipe clean, and getting picked up by the fluid once it gets past the seal. If the seals on a gas-filled shock absorber shaft can stay clean and maintain a gas charge while wiping dust, grime and water away, it seems like a good seal should be possible there. GM might have cut a corner and produced a product for the average user, not the abuser.

When the piston is at TC, the crack would be on the crankcase side of the rings. If there was a crack couldn't you see it with the piston down the bore? Or are you holding the timing chain in place and can't rotate the crank? Sounds interesting. Weird problem.

Changing the rear bearings is a big job. I've noticed that I can hear the bearings on my car also, but I've put 25,000 miles on them since I noticed. They weren't loose then and aren't now. They're not tapered roller bearings like in the front, they're ball bearings, which tend to be looser and noisier in general, in my limited experience. You might think twice before replacing. But if you do, here's a good reference - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html