NewZed

This doesn't make any sense. Probably wasting money, buying a new AFM.

Might be wasting your money. You have a stock FPR on the rail now, right? Many auto stores have a "loaner" program for tools - http://oreillyauto.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/150/session/L3RpbWUvMTM0NjAzNDY4My9zaWQvWV9UX3NJNGw%3D

I would also check CHTS resistance at the ECU connector. Make sure resistance is right for its temperature. There are charts of resistance v. temperature in the 280Z FSMs if the ZX FSMs don't have them. The injectors have no order, it's batch/simultaneous injection.

Here's a couple of resources - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ http://www.xenonz32.com/reference.html

Doesn't your SBC have a mechanical pump bolted to it? I believe that they are designed to self-regulate pressure for carb use.

Saw this CL ad from Eugene OR today and thought someone here might be interested. Looks like it's from a 510 guy, don't know if he's a Hybridz member or not - http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/3227089492.html

It's probably like my 76, controlled by vacuum. It's operation is described in the AC section of the FSM but you probably just lost vacuum to the reservoir bottle from the intake manifold. I had the same problem, twice, once when a flow restrictor to the vacuum bottle got clogged (it's inline, black and circular, held on with a metal clip to the "magnet" valve bracket) and again when the tiny hose from the manifold split.

I can't say for sure but the word "noise" may have originally been meant to refer to electrical noise and been layman termed down to mean noise though the radio speakers. A side effect of electrical noise. Electrical "noise" tends to cause problems for sensitive devices. Anyway, I just put it out there as an option. I've also read of using a diode on the tach circuit for a similar purpose, to condition the signal to the tach. There's probably someone out here who knows much more about electronics and electrical theory who could help, if you posted a video or gave really good description of what the tach is doing. You said "not working" in #29 but didn't give any more details. If the needle is twitching, there's something there, you just have to find a way to use the good part of the signal and get rid of the rest.

You should list the year and type of car and the part numbers for the Tokicos.

It was the typical condenser used up by the coil. I think that it was 0.5 microfarads, if I remember and read my meter right (500 nanofarads). An alternator condenser would probably serve the same function (I just measured one recently and it was 0.7 mF), available at most auto parts stores. It's backyard electronics engineering though, I don't really know what I was doing. But I don't think it can hurt.

The S130s came with R180's or long-nose R200's.

Maybe you just paid $650 for a front cover. They should swap. If the only thing wrong with the 82 engine is a head gasket, then it's labor and gaskets to get back on the road. There's always small claims court, as far as trying to get some money back. Might be worthwhile, if you think you can build a case.

I wonder if you could have the metal sealing surface plated and/or polished so that the seal would work better. The dust must be sitting in some porosity or machining marks that the seal doesn't wipe clean, and getting picked up by the fluid once it gets past the seal. If the seals on a gas-filled shock absorber shaft can stay clean and maintain a gas charge while wiping dust, grime and water away, it seems like a good seal should be possible there. GM might have cut a corner and produced a product for the average user, not the abuser.

When the piston is at TC, the crack would be on the crankcase side of the rings. If there was a crack couldn't you see it with the piston down the bore? Or are you holding the timing chain in place and can't rotate the crank? Sounds interesting. Weird problem.

Changing the rear bearings is a big job. I've noticed that I can hear the bearings on my car also, but I've put 25,000 miles on them since I noticed. They weren't loose then and aren't now. They're not tapered roller bearings like in the front, they're ball bearings, which tend to be looser and noisier in general, in my limited experience. You might think twice before replacing. But if you do, here's a good reference - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html

There are better ways to figure out if you have a diesel. Those are the only things I've seen on an engine with a household-type plug. Could still be handy in certain parts of Texas, I assume. Have fun with the new Z. Read up on the EFI before it has problems, not after.

Just a neophyte, but wouldn't the Schneider guys have some notes on the grind - http://schneidercams.com/270-60F-14_LET6.aspx Still in business and they have a phone number. Just a thought.

I think that the 240SX's came with short-nose differentials. There are adapters available but they're expensive. Take a look under the car, they are obviously shorter than the long-nose. If it's a viscous LSD unit it should have a sticker on it also. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=74&PHPSESSID=913b505897594e5aaabe6608cdf597e9

Sounds like a block heater. Did the car come from up north?

I see a weight on the left and a part description, under a year-of-car heading. What's the issue? Hard to complain about free.

This whole page of posts (and more) is about ignition but the statement above suggests that you have a fuel problem. Have you tried starter fluid (Edit - it worked here - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/108541-l28et-240z-swap-wiring-help/page__pid__1015062#entry1015062)? If you do and it starts and revs, then dies, forget about ignition and focus on injector firing.

Maybe your timing light is triggering off of a different plug wire. You might line up the light and sensor on the Unilite for sparking cylinder #1 and see where the timing mark is, engine not turning, just to feel comfortable that the engine is not really firing the #1 plug 50 degrees before TDC. You should be able to get within a few degrees I would think, if you know when the Unilite breaks the coil circuit (trailing or leading, etc.). If you do that and things are close, then you can focus on getting the timing light to read the right wire. If you do that and things are still way off then you can continue being confused.

It took 5 seconds for the first enormous picture to load and it was fuzzy and out of focus. Could be a factor for the low response rate. Plus the fact that those connectors are probably common to numerous years. And you've offered no clues that it's even a Nissan harness. Poor capitalization and formatting doesn't help either. Effort returned is generally proportional to effort put in. Add a little more and you'll probably get a few guesses.

Which one and what does "burned joint" mean? Did you have a short between two components in the ECU or an open circuit? Pass on a little good information for the next guy.

I'm no expert but I don't think that you have a good blend of parts for a well-functioning turbo engine. The stock EFI won't handle a turbo very well, and the Stage 3 cam is an NA cam, for example. The stock injectors won't supply enough fuel unless you crank up the fuel pressure, which will make everything rich off-boost. It would probably never run right. This thread is worth reading - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/