NewZed

I came a cross a web site that seems to have a pretty good listing of all of the FS5W71 series of 5 speed transmissions. It's not perfect, it still shows the 71B transmissions as 71A, but could be useful for anyone looking for a later model transmission to do a 71B bellhousing/front case swap with. Use the drop-down boxes at the top to get a list by car model and transmission type. I chose the 300ZX and later 240SX for these examples since they're the most referred to but there are probably other swap possibilities. http://parts.mackstrans.com/bkits.php?make_generic=Nissan+Car+Z+Series&bktmake=FS5W71C http://parts.mackstrans.com/bkits.php?make_generic=Nissan+Car&bktmake=FS5W71H I have no idea if the rebuild kits are any good, but they might be worth a look. Edit - here's a few key words for future searchers - FS5W71C, FS5W71B, FS5W71G, FS5W71H, FS5W71A, FS5W71E, 200SX, truck, bell housing.

Other clues to your problem are that you had smoking wires but the fuses did not blow. I would focus on the new fuse setup.

Take the fuses out. Disconnect the connection by the fuse box. Then test the headlight circuit wires at each on of the disconnections for continuity to ground. For example, if you disconnect the connection by the fuse box, or take fuses out, and get a short to ground at the power wire to the headlight switch, then the short is between those two points. If you don't then you can look elsewhere. Break the big circuit, from the battery to the headlights, in to small pieces.

Check the FSM, or one of the wiring diagrams for your year and test at the connectors. There's one by the fuse-box. The FSM shows the color codes for the connectors. You could also test at the fusible link. Disconnect at the connector and the fusible link and check for short in each segment. You can at least narrow it down to a smaller area. You can also get a better idea of what the PO was trying to do. By the way, "Gremlins" is not a good title to draw eyes to your issues.

I took that measurement last night and it was 4 3/4" from the top of the back of the diff to the center of the axle hole, stub axles out. I laid a straight piece of wood across the back edge and measured from its bottom edge to the center of the hole. I see in your other thread that RebekahZ had a number for you also. Hope that's enough to get it done. Good luck.

Was, until recently. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/104370-no-longer-a-tokico-wd/page__pid__976161#entry976161

Use a torch. There may be Loctite there.. Plus the heat will expand the nut. You're replacing the seals and bearings anyway, it won't hurt anything.

Actually, there's not much to mis-read. But the story is getting more interesting. You said that you have MS in Post #4. But it sounds like what you're looking for is an EMS that has already been installed and tuned for a stock 1977 280Z engine. If the rodents have been in the cabin you'll need more than just an EMS. Good luck.

The "normal l28 setup" that came with the car is the only "plug and play" system out there. You'll have to put the old distributor and shaft back in. Another option is to describe in detail what you have installed and see if someone can help you get Megasquirt running. Post your questions, detailed, here - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/34-megasquirt/ To Hybridz sellers - Excuse me if I'm ruining someone's opportunity to sell an aftermarket EMS.

Download the FSM and test the TPS according to the procedure described in the Engine Fuel section - http://xenons30.com/reference.html Test the AFM, procedure described in the same section. Measure your fuel pressure. Run all of the tests until you find the problem or understand how it works so well that the solution just pops in to your head. This method is guaranteed. Not kidding.

Sorry, I already put everything back in their resting spots in the garage (it's a little crowded). I'll take a measurement if I get a diff out again. Someone will probably have it before then though.

Assume that the engine is no good (poorly built and already failing), and value the car as if it didn't have an engine.

What might happen - your high pressure/high volume EFI fuel pump will pump more fuel than the return line can handle and your fuel pressure will be too high and uncontrollable. Measure the fuel pressure with the new pump running, at the fuel rail.

Looks like a project. I got 1 1/8" from the top of the diff to the line created across the two mounting pads on the body for the ends of the mustache bar for an R200. I mounted a spare bar on a spare diff and set a level across the tops of the two metal tubes in the centers of the bushings and measured down to the top of the diff from the center of the level. Hope that makes sense and works for figuring out what you need. You should be able to get the comparable measurement on your R180, in the car.

Saw your other post. For what you're asking I would get the measurement from the top, or bottom, of the mustache bars' end mounting points, an R200 and an R180, down to the axle centers, or to the tops of the diffs, since you'll need the mustache bar when you install the R200. It's the assembly of the two that matters. Or get the distance from the tops of the diffs to some common point on the cars they're installed in, same idea. You might find some pictures to eyeball on the internet also, of installed R180s and R200s. You're not slamming a Z are you?

I got 3 1/4" from the top to the center of the mounting studs on an R200.

Howdy. The crank bolt is 27 mm. I just went out and stuck a socket on the bolt to be sure.

Do you have one of them? I could measure an R200 and let you do the math. Or someone with an R180 might do the same.

There's a new FAQ section at the top of the forums page. Maybe it's there.

There's an 88 300ZX in the Sherwood Pick n Pull with an FS5R30A. It's an NA car with an open diff, so I don't really know why it's in there but I did take a good look and it seems to be the real deal. Hex head bolts holding the cases together, fill hole in the same plane as the drain, 71C type shifter in a six bolt top cover, external reinforcement on the bell-housing/front case. It seemed in good shape. I know the high HP guys use them. Hate to see it go to the smelter. It will probably be crushed in another week or two. Looks like the one shown here - http://www.az-zbum.com/images/information.transmission.fs5r30a.1.jpg

If you're talking about the port in the side of the block, that would be the bypass valve for when the oil filter won't pass enough oil. It just means that your oil isn't getting fully filtered, if it's getting filtered at all. Diagrams are in the Engine Lubrication section of the FSM. Apparently the whole thing can be pried out with a screwdriver for replacement. Doesn't really explain your knocking though.

The 240SX transmission up to 96 is the FS5W71C, I believe. Nissan changed the last letter for minor variations but they were all FS5W71_. I don't think that the numbers on the transmission case tell you anything.

How will you know what to replace, or where to put it, if you can't find the ignitor? Maybe you don't have the ECU timing control. Just wondering, you might be wasting your time and money.

My limited wisdom can't figure out what "little bit" and "not much" means. Do you have any numbers? Degrees of rotation would be a good one. Video would probably be better. By the way, I won't have any help for you after you supply this information. But I'm still interested.

Didn't know that the Fidanza flywheel was thinner, that throws a kink in the generic "which collar" question. If you boil it all down, for choosing a throwout collar, the critical distance should be the distance from the back of the engine to the face of the throwout collar bearing (where the fork contacts it). The distance of the pivot ball for the fork from the back of the engine will always be the same, since it's the same on all of the transmissions. The end of the fork will always be in the same spot, the objective is to get the face of the throwout bearing in the same area. If I knew that distance, on a setup that works, that would be part of the answer to every "which throwout collar should I use" question. There are several different pressure plate thicknesses out there along with the various throwout collars. Now there's a flywheel thickness difference. That's where the chaos lies, all those different dimensions. Just match them up to get the same stack distance, from engine to bearing face, of what you have now that works. It can't not work, if you're using the same master, slave cylinder and fork. I don't have any power to speak of, so no advice on clutch selection, but do like a good throwout collar puzzle...