NewZed

I think that the later service manuals might mention that if there's a problem it could be a bad voltage regulator. Think I've seen it in the 280Z FSM's. If both needles go wacky at the same time it's likely that, you'd think. Picture from 1973 FSM.

Andreas is right, considering bore size. I was thinking of the classic N42, N47, F54, P90 head and gasket problem. L28 heads on L28 blocks. You have an L24/L26 head on an L28 block so an L24/L26 gasket might not seal the bore. Take measurements and consider coolant flow.

If there are no passages in the head the coolant has no where to go. And the head is probably more sensitive to coolant flow than the block. That would be my reasoning. Match the head, I'd say. Opinion.

This changes the situation. But, still, a condenser won't hurt. You might check your grounds and various connections too. Also consider just a low battery and/or weak alternator affecting the ignition system. The turn signals draw extra current and the Z alternators are known to be close to maxed-out at idle speed. Try revving the engine with the turn signals on and see if the dying needle fixes itself.

I've solved a twitchy tach needle on my 76 by adding a condenser to the negative side of the coil. It was a plain old alternator type, connected to the negative post. The early tachs are designed for the 6-volt system, with the coil and ballast resistor. The later electronic modules might just be too noisy for the early tachs. I'm not an electronics expert but I know that it worked for me, with a GM HEI module (the problem came back one day when the condenser/capacitor wire broke due to vibration), and it can't really hurt anything.

That resistance is probably fine. The E12-80 module has current control, I believe, it can handle it. The tach needle problem might just be a tach problem. Check the capacitor/condenser by the coil wiring. The tachs don't like electrical noise and the condenser is there to damp it. You haven't said what year car you're working with.

0.84 to 1.02 is the primary circuit resistance spec. on the stock 1979 coil. What's the resistance of the 8202? The odd behavior with the turn signals suggests other causes..

That's very common. It's one of the bearings in the transmission. Can't remember which one. Seems to be inherent to the design and the bearing that Nissan chose. Most make that noise. If it's really bad though it could be a sign of impending failure. If it just sounds like a rough rumbly bearing it's probably fine. If it's crunchy and poppy, maybe not.

There are threads about it. on the Hybridz site. Apparently, positioning #1 so the crank weights are out of the way is important.

Actually, that's 6 cm. 60 mm. You could adjust the rod out as far is it will go or even make a new one from an old bolt. People have done it before. Worth a shot. Or put a spacer between the rod end and the fork just for a short experiment. If it disengages you'll know there's hope.

There is a variety of sleeves/collars out there, to match the various pressure plates. That's the key, the pressure plate and sleeve need to work together. The bearing fits in the sleeve and is replaceable. Many of us have found that a distance of about 92 mm from the surface of the flywheel to the surface the fork rides on, the two ears on the sleeve, when the parts are stacked, will always work. You'll find advice on mixing and matching by year of car and/or transmission but once the clutch has been replaced you're basically starting from scratch. Most new pressure plates are the short ones that require a long sleeve. Somebody probably kept the old 240Z sleeve with a new short pressure plate on yours. You could get the barn parts ready to swap on, then just do the sleeve if you find that it will work. Use the L28E fork also, with a newer type slave and rod. You still have the old adjustable type slave and fork. Attached a picture. Not exact but gives the concept.

Here it is. This is with the clutch fork just about to move the pressure plate. The bolt head is the one on the slave cylinder.

You have a couple of things backward. What you describe isn't "slipping" it's lack of disengagement. The opposite of slipping. And you're moving the fork in the wrong direction in your video. But it still looks a lot like a short throwout bearing collar. The fork is very close to the end of travel before it would even start moving the pressure plate. From what I've seen the fork is about centered in the hole when it's sitting on the pressure plate fingers, on a proper system. Yours is way back, close to hitting the edge of the hole. I actually have a measurement somewhere, I'll see if I can dig it up. You probably need to take the transmission out and get a longer collar. MSA has them. Type "clutch collar" in the search box. http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCHM

Isn't your real question "what does this line do?". You should determine that, then the answer will probably be obvious.

calz is making the point that the weight of the transmission is hanging on the nuts which are sitting on top of the metal tabs that are glued in place. Not a bad fix if you had welded instead of JB Welded. If the JB Weld fails the back of your engine will drop.

You can just add a spacer (from a piece of pipe) to make up the distance on the rear strut. That's what Tokico does. Same strut on all four corners, two use a spacer. Seems like the distributor in this case just never got their database right and now they're screwed up forever. One of the downsides of the new technology age - mistakes tend to be permanent. There's a company out there advertising CV axles for 240Z's because somebody assumed and put it in to a database.

Forgot to say, if you tried some things tell people what you tried. "Every possible idea" could mean one bad idea.

Firstly - is this a Ford? A chevy? 1985? 76? And the two facts you posted could just be a correlation, not cause and effect. Won't start. Relay clicks. Not even clear that you're sure it's the fuel pump relay. Sounds like a dead battery or bad battery connections.

Looks like there's no fuse on the power supply line to the fuel pump relay. It comes directly from the fusible links. Are there other things that don't have power also? Check your fusible links.

You had a good clue with the relay clicking when you opened the flap. Follow the power. The AFM switch must be working, that's one. The relay clicks, that's two. If the contacts in the relay are closing, power should be supplied to the pump through the relay. Get in to the wiring diagram and follow the wires back to the pump from the relay. There's a connector right next to the passenger seat that carries the power back. Since you know you have the AFM and AFM power in to the relay working, and you know the pump works, check the relay itself if the wires back look right. There's a procedure in the EF chapter. You'll need a meter. Make sure that power is being supplied to the relay to run the pump. There might be a fuse, can't remember. You can also disconnect the wires by the passenger seat and supply power there if you're careful, or check continuity back through the pump motor. Break the chain in to parts until you find the broken link.

Not really clear what you're saying. You said that you bypassed everything, so why would the AFM and relay matter? No power to what? Why would you push the flap with the key in the Start position? The flap controls it in the On position. Sounds like you've collected some information. You're just not using it right. Try putting everything back together the way it should be, disconnect the little yellow wire to the starter solenoid, then turn the key to Start. That should send power to the pump. If it doesn't spin, check for voltage at the terminals with the key turned to Start. Or put everything back together, turn the key to On, and open the AFM flap. The pump should get power.

I knew that somebody would bring that up. That general design is ceryainly everywhere. The location of the ARB end link seems closer to the stress point though in this case, than a comparable Z car arm. Pulling and pushing more on the arm itself than the wheel hub. The leverage factor is higher.

With wiring, if you have to ask these kinds of questions you probably shouldn't be attempting it. The Hazard switch alone foils most people. You're probably replacing the wiring because it looks bad. But it probably functions fine. I'd leave it and do the engine harness alone. That effort alone will help you decide if you want to tackle the body harness. The engine harness should feel like a piece of cake. If it doesn't, think twice about the body harness.

Why do you want to rebuild it? The 71B's have some noises that they make normally, like the rumbling bearing with the clutch pedal up in neutral, and the worn factory parts are often as good as new replacement parts. Many people have been happy with just using a better fluid, like Redline MT90, if' ti's a synchro problem. Make sure you're rebuilding for the right reasons.

Looks like a terrible design. A bolt ot threaded rod, essentially designed for tensile loads, used to handle a side load, with about 20 stress risers to choose from for a crack to start, Once the crack starts fatigue will kill it eventually. You can actually see the rusty spot where things started.