NewZed

This is incredibly old knowledge. You probably should go with the V8 swap. Go with what you know, there's a lot of new stuff to learn if you go with the L6 engine. EFI, overhead cam, the inherent weaknesses of the engine design. You'd break a lot of parts trying to work with the L6.

Don't overlook the diff mounts. Urethane will transmit more nose than rubber. The Z car diffs are inherently whiny. A perfectly fine diff can sound terrible if you everything that's going on in there.

The rear main seal can be changed in a few hours from underneath. It's a one-piece round seal that presses in around the crankshaft. Raise car, drop transmission, remove flywheel, change seal. Of course, while it's apart there are other things that would make sense to do. But it doesn't seem like you know how the engine parts fit together. Hard to put a plan together if you don't. Just saying, these aren't domestic V8's. A cheap way to get a clean running car back on the road might be to just find a used L6, swap it in, and drive it while you think. The engines are often in great shape even after 100,000 miles.

Here's some good reading. Most of the good discussions happened before you or I joined the forum. Many of these guys have moved on and don't post anymore. Read enough though, and you'll see who makes sense and who's just in the headers and high CR camp. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/75978-giving-more-hp-on-a-na/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/56128-my-wicked-engine-rebuild-plans-are-progressing-lots-of-new-modspics/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/

Actually, a lot of the V8 power mods are just hype also. The pushback you're getting here is because you're over-simplifying. There are lists of parts to assemble out there, some on Hybridz, some on other sites. Nobody's going to retype something that's already out there. Search "N42 flat tops compression ratio" and you'll get a ton of threads to read through. Find one that looks interesting and retype it, to discuss.. Without actually measuring power or track times, you won't know if they work or not. A loud exhaust will probably feel like 20 HP. At the end of the thread though, you'll have some parts you bolted together and it will either feel more powerful or you'll feel like you should have gone with a V8. Besides that, it's not apparent that you're actually using or really considering any of the suggestions. There's a whole long list of how the EFI system works and which parts can be modified for power n that FAQ page I suggested. does't seem like you've even glanced at it. BRAAP's opus. lol

I might be wrong on 1974. Here are some links to use to see if the desired parts are there. Looks like they changed some things over the years. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/distributor/260z Note 7412 is the change point - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/distributor/280z

74-77 will probably work also. Electronic ignition, with the pickup coils on the breaker plate..

Never mind. I linked you to your own thread. You should just follow JMortensen's advice. He has dug deep in to this subject.

That's the top of the two-piece plate used with an automatic transmission. The manual transmission plates are one piece, like in your JDM link. You should be able to find a used one pretty easily. All of the manual transmission engines came with one. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-block

If you have the 3.36 ratio R180 in your 240Z you'll want a low 1st gear. You should determine your rear diff ratio, or plan to swap a diff in, to get the full benefits. The wrong combination can be difficult to live with. The 240Z 4 speeds have a very low 1st gear. That might be why the turbo FS5R90A 5 speed was recommended. It has a low 1st gear also. Put a list of ratios together, and parts needed to do the swap. The turbo 5 speed will take more parts and effort, but if you have a 3.36 might be the way to go.

Could you increase toe (more toe-out) at the track so that you get maximum traction at full squat? Go from toe-out to neutral on launch. Just a thought. Stiffer springs reduce squat which would reduce weight transfer, and traction, I'd guess.

Browse through the MT chapters. There's a table at the end of the chapter that tells which engine was paired with which transmission. The gear ratios are shown also. http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

The ZX's came with two different 5 speeds. But they also came with different parts to use them in the ZX. If you want a simple 5 speed swap for a 240Z, the 71B 5 speed from any 1977 - 1983 Z or ZX will swap easily and fairly directly. The gear ratios are different though, between early (77-80) and late (80-83) so that should be considered relative to diff ratio.

Nobody said that there were two different kinds of ZX T5. The T5 will go in with some extra effort. Small to some people, not so small to to others. For you, maybe the pond.

You're not grokking. Only the 90A is the T5. And it's not a direct swap.

Replace "t5" with "71B" and most of what you wrote would fit. The T5 (FS5R90A) is a completely different transmission than the FS5W71B that typically came in the 1970(1?) - 1983 Z cars. You're way off. Don't buy it unless you're ready to spend more money to make it work.

He's a vendor here, with a web site. He typically responds to questions. http://forums.hybridz.org/user/50800-zcardepotcom/ https://zcardepot.com/

There are some threads out there, maybe even in the FAQ section. Browse there. John Coffey put a good list together, if I remember, listing mods in order of impact. Bigger exhaust was high on the list, headers was low. The stock manifolds apparently flow pretty well. Simple port work on the heads is very high on many people's list. The hard pipe and filter are probably a waste of money and effort. COP won't increase power at all. E fans...not power-related. Your list is the typical general simple blingy performance stuff that parts suppliers use to get people to buy stuff. No offense. There is a good solid experience-based list out there somewhere. I'll post it if I find it. Here's the FAQ link to get you started. Try "L-series" under Powertrain - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/38-faqs/

The one a few pictures down on this page? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

You haven't said much about how long you've had it, what condition it was in when you got it, and how you drive it, Or how well tuned the EFI system is. Could be fuel-fouling. Other things, like a clogged PCV system can also lead to high oil burning. Need details to make good guesses. I had an old head with worn valve seals that would burn a lot of oil if I used it hard, but not much if I just cruised around. It ran great though, just tended to get a lumpy idle if it wasn't abused

Engine Tuneup chapter.

The procedure is described in the Nissan Factory Service Manual. It's the difference between cylinders that matters most (that's also mentioned in almost every single compression check thread). Actual numbers will vary with the gauge and adapters used. Bad valve seals will also cause high oil consumption. Worn oil scraper rings won't show up on a cylinder pressure check. They work in the opposite direction.

http://3mauto.com/products/adhesives-sealants#mdTP9jDZGLg5FMrA.97

What's a fuel block off plate?

Several people have reported problems with the quality of the 930 CV's. There are a variety of sources for them, some not so good. You might browse through SUNNYZ's and RebekahsZ's past efforts. Both are drag racers who've been through the process. Here's where SUNNYZ ended up but he has other threads about breaking stuff - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109324-ford-88-irs-conversion/ Her's one where RebekahsZ describes twisting a driveshaft - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116475-should-i-be-worried-about-my-axleshalfshafts/