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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    The high O2 and HC indicate a misfiring cylinder. Gasoilne (HC) and oxygen (O2) are passing through the misfire without catching fire and combining to form CO2 and H2O. Focus on spark, check valve lash.
  2. NewZed
    You can't see the pedestal in either picture. The pictures aren't worth much, they don't tell anything.
  3. NewZed
    The stock factory mount on the crossmember is most likely right. The factory mustache bar is flexible and it's mounted with very flexible rubber bushings. You're replacing a bunch of sloppy flexible stuff with rigid parts. You could just slot those urethane bushings to make those parts work together. If the distances are correct, up and down, take a rat tail file and slot the holes to give the bolts room to let the nose move up.
  4. NewZed
    Don't overlook that one very important part of mounting the diff is that the angle of the diff's pinion shaft has to match the angle of the transmission's output shaft. So that the u-joints of the propeller shaft will be in-phase, to avoid vibration. You shouldn't be modifying anything until you know the angles are right. The T3 bar shouldn't change the angle of the diff if it's designed to work with the stock mount. And the Technoversion piece is well-known and seems to work well. And, since you're using the Technoversion piece with a stock mount, you shouldn't really be worrying about it. It's not really a mount the way that you're using it, it's just a snubber for the nose of the diff. You could remove it entirely while you figure out how to make the stock factory mount work. Then install the snubber.
  5. NewZed
    Could also be that the car has been in an accident. If you give the name of the company that made your front mount people could tell you if it should work with the T3 bar.
  6. NewZed
    I only see one shadowy picture of things that are hard to define. Bad picture and only one. I can tell that you don't have the crossmember installed though. That would be a good clue of how far off the front mount is. I attached a picture of a diff nose sitting in its stock mount (borrowed it from classiczcars.com). Notice how close it is to the crossmember. The rear bar and the front mount have to work together. Obviously one of your parts has to go. Pick one. You seem too attached to that front mount, like you don't want to give it up. Did you make it yourself? If the T3 bar is right then the front mount isn't. Pretty simple. Good luck.
  7. NewZed
    Sounds like you're trying to force together two aftermarket parts that aren't compatible. The aluminum bar was probably deigned for the factory front mount. What you're describing suggests that your aftermarket upper front mount is incorrect for the application. Is it so ugly that you can't show a picture? Might explain the situation.
  8. NewZed
    Way too low for what? It's still not clear what you're trying to mount the nose of the diff to. You said it was some sort of custom front diff mount. Could be that the flexibility of the stock bar just allowed you to use a "wrong" diff mount in the front.
  9. NewZed
    In the same vein as aarang's comment, learn what you have. Could just be cam timing holding your RPM down. And beware discounted parts. There are some shiny cool-looking parts out there that don't actually fit and work. The stock injection parts aren't really very expensive. And the turbo variant requires more than the NA design. You should get specs on all of your parts and go through the engine to be sure that they're installed correctly. Cam timing, ignition timing, etc. Measure cylinder pressure, check valve lash, examine spark plugs... Find out the specs on the cam. Know what you have.
  10. NewZed
    There's a thread on another forum about aftermarket bars. Here's some links from it if you get desperate. http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-tube-oil-cam~13100-e3004.html http://www.yoesheadporting.com/product-page/687b6dfd-1bc5-8b50-6674-2e4f8b055f90 http://www.datsunstore.com/oiler-7077-used-p-1429.html http://www.datsunstore.com/oiler-7077-billet-aluminum-p-1428.html
  11. NewZed
    Wouldn't there be force on the tower forward under braking? Levering around the TC rod? Just trying to wrap my head around it. Straight line pushing the wheel backward, but rotational pushing the top forward. You could imagine if the top of the strut was disconnected and you hit the brakes it would rotate around as the bottom of the tire is pushed backward.
  12. NewZed
    Sounds like you got lucky. As I recall Casey took people's money and manifolds but did not deliver a product or return what he took. That's called stealing and people that do that are called thieves. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117103-senza-pari-manifold-group-buy-v-20/?do=findComment&comment=1097597 If the manifold does the same job the stock one did, with no change in power output, then it's is essentially an appearance piece, as was suggested early on.
  13. NewZed
    Your link doesn't work. And your comment is kind of meaningless since "works" doesn't tell anything. Beside that it's in the wrong sub-forum. Many would love to hear more details though if you want to do it right.
  14. NewZed
    Seems like this might be your problem. If you have a factory stock rubber mount try that before swapping bars. And take some decent pictures of the front mount with light. Your pictures are terrible.
  15. NewZed
    What happens if you use the stock mustache bar with the Sti diff? That will tell you if it's the diff or the bar.
  16. NewZed
    Search "GM HEI module 240Z" for one. Or swap to the 280ZX distributor ("matchbox" in CM's post above). This link covers much of your problem - http://www.fivestarmanufacturing.com/kat_s
  17. NewZed
    Is that an S30 or S130? Nothing wrong with exploring new possibilities. Here's a similar option using the Moog spring number for a Chevette. That option gets kicked around often for the S30's. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110278-need-stronger-front-coil-springs-for-240z/ Seems like people often leave spring preload out of their overall calculations. That determines the weight that the spring will hold up (depending on spring rate of course) before compressing. You can set ride height somewhat independently of rate using preload. Nissan uses a somewhat soft spring, but preloaded when installed. The tires are compressing along with the spring, when the suspension is in use. Lots to consider if you want to end up with a good ride after making your car look right.
  18. NewZed
    Testing - https://www.summitracing.com/ Let's see what happens... You're right. Image copied below. Trying Amazon now. https://www.amazon.com/ Amazon works fine. Summit must have a problem. How about a hybridz.org link to be sure. Do loop... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126603-site-redirecting-links-to-viglink/?do=findComment&comment=1183339
  19. NewZed
    You should have that head checked out, at least get the chamber volumes measured. It might have had port and/or combustion chamber work done, along with surface milling. It's probably not a stock head anymore so the CR calculators won't work. And choosing a proper cam will be worth much more than a bump in CR.
  20. NewZed
    That wasn't my point. I was just offering a clue. Nissan did make some one-off parts, apparently. The J30 short nose diff with the unique spline count for example. Wouldn't be a surprise if they had ABS as an option on a 300ZX. There are some things that didn't make it the the service manuals. But Infiniti M30 diff seems like a reasonable guess. Seems like kind of a distraction though. The real story is that your buddy didn't get what he thought he was getting. Hope he didn't pay too much.
  21. NewZed
    Maybe the early primitive anti-lock brake systems just controlled front versus back but most control wheels individually. You can't do that from the pinion shaft. And the pinion flange is at the same speed as the speedo drive, so no differentiation. And the ZX's went to electronic speed sensors pretty quickly so that signal could be used. The short nose diff ABS had toothed wheels inboard of the axle flange. Thar sensor is most likely a cruise control sensor, I'd think. Just puzzle-solving. Edit - wait. the !989 240SX appears to have a sensor like that, that measures pinion shaft speed. Guess they wanted to keep things separate from the speedo signal. But it's a short-nose. So close.
  22. NewZed
    You're right . Sorry Joe, I got my emphasis wrong.
  23. NewZed
    You're talking to Joe right? The topic was cruising until he came in with comments about short runs, and other people commented "stop thinking and just buy the parts from Joe". We're just trying to figure out how to get what we want without waiting for a group buy. These types of threads are where the ideas for the products Joe is now making came from. The free market is about competition. My comments should be helpful to Joe, and Whitehead, if they take the time to think about them. New ways to get there will be devised if the other paths are too time-consuming or expensive. Pretty simple concept.
  24. NewZed
    Starting fluid. Pop off a small vacuum line and squirt it directly in to the intake manifold. At least you'll know if it will run once started.
  25. NewZed
    Could the sensor be an aftermarket cruise control item? Red herringish. My "28" might be off. With 240Z, 280Z and 280ZX hub axles and flanges, and the two differential spline counts I get them mixed up. Ishould have left it at "my 280Z open diff axles fit the J30 VLSD diff". The 3.9 ratio and long nose implies early 300ZX doesn't it? That's why I was curious about if it's really a VLSD. You can tell by looking in the hole and seeing where the internal splines are. You can see where the two sides of the VLSD clutch split on the long shaft.
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