NewZed

Have you checked the FSM diagrams? They're not the greatest but might offer a clue. Or you can take apart the working door and figure out what is supposed to happen. If you just need to remove the outside handle so that you can actuate the rods by hand, there's two nuts that hold it to the door. And there's a sliding locking clip, like the one on the brake hoses, that holds the lock itself to the door. A bright light and tiny hands and you can get them both out and off. Could be that either the inside or the outside mechanism is broken or jammed. Make sure you're working on the right one. The inside handle is easier to get to. And you didn't say what year you're working with. Things changed over the various models. And it's not really clear what you're replacing, the latching mechanism, or the actuators, or the lock.

Me again. You're probably not getting many responses because this topic comes up every few months. Search the forums a little closer and you'll find threads that say "too much, I got mine for $400 (ten years ago)" or "that's a great deal, 280ZX's are going for $1000's today". Big picture wise, it's about time. How long do you want to wait for a screaming deal? Any engine from a salvage yard is going to cost about $300. You get a whole car. And you mis-titled this one - 289ZXT is not a thing. God luck.

Actually, that's probably a short shot. RB probably does matter, with it's cam sensor mounted up there. My point was really "know your system".

Describe the engine management and ignition system. Megasquirt, Electromotive, Haltech, etc. Doesn't matter if it's an RB or an L or an LS...

Actually, your plan is pretty much what 80% of the people on this site are trying to do. Throttle bodies only control air flow. Throttle means to obstruct or stop flow. In the old days people were throttled instead of choked. Fuel injection of some sort is used with all throttle bodies. A carburetor is essentially a throttle body combined with a fuel reservoir and little holes that allow fuel to get sucked in via air pressure. Here's the start of a good few threads on ITB's - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/55119-making-my-own-efi-intake-system/ The links in the thread are screwed up. Here's the others. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63445-making-my-own-efi-intake-the-first-casting/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/87009-dereks-efi-itb-manifold-pricing-thread/

Search "92mm" or "92 mm" and other clutch words and you'll find some threads about making sure what you end up with works. The fork and slave cylinder and master cylinder all give essentially the same stroke, no matter what transmission or clutch is being used. The key is to get the starting point right. That's determined by the collar (where the fork sits) and the pressure plate "fingers". It's that stack height that matters.

The shafts fit the differential so spline count is whatever it is. You can't choose. You might be confusing hub shafts with differential shafts. Hub axles - http://www.modern-motorsports.com/stub-axles.html See the threaded end for the retaining nut? A long-nose open diff is the stock diff for a 1977. Probably original. The diff that you're buying should be designed for Nissan's spines so the stock 300ZX CV joints, with splned axle attached, should work in the diff. Then you want the shortened axles to put those ends on - http://www.modern-motorsports.com/z31-half-shafts.html You can also take the stub axles from your open diff and use them in the helical, with the u-joint half-shafts. You might do the job piece-meal to be sure the diff is right before you spend on the CV conversion. The u-joint halfshafts should work perfectly until you get the CV shaft parts. You will need either the 27 OR 39 spline hub axles to use the CV shafts though. Because the bolt pattern of the flange needs to fit the CV flange. That's why it would be simpler to just install the helical and use your current u-joint halfshafts first. Then focus on the CV shafts with adapters for the wheel side. The only aftermarket stub axles created for diffs are the Subaru axles to allow the u-joint halfshafts with the Subaru diff. The factory diff axles have been strong enough. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22&Itemid=31 I probably just added more RPM to your spin, but good luck.

I'd start a new thread with a more descriptive title. Like "is anyone using the T3 mustache bar with an R180?". And focus on whether or not theirs fits without compressing the bushings. That's your real question right? It doesn't really matter what Nissan did with their bar. There's a lot of extra stuff in this thread, with upside down and poorly lit pictures. It's hard to get through. Maybe SJ could tell where he saw the modified cross member in Post #17. Actually, I just found it. It's an RB swap so may have been lowered on purpose. http://www.ontariozcar.com/ozc/forum/forums/buy-sell/1852-240z-part-out-full-interior-rb-swap-4-11-r180-multilink-s13-suspension-etc

Thought I saw a reply to this already. Looks like a decent deal. People seem to be happy at $600 - 1000. You might consider what you're going to do with the body after you strip it. Even the salvage yards require a title, I believe. You might be breaking some laws. And you're not supposed to be selling parts unless you donate. And use the correct forum.

Just reinstall the Nissan R180 with the T3 bar and determine if it 's the T3 bar or the Subaru diff that's the problem . If the measurements aren't possible and you have the parts you might as well swap them and figure out what combinations work and which don't. If the Nissan diff doesn't work with the T3 bar then you can focus on the T3 bar. If it does fit then you can focus on the Subaru diff differences.

Those pistons won't work because an L24 block's bore is too small, not too big. 83mm. Specs. are in the FSM, Engine Mechanical chapter. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/ You haven't defined the job, so no way to tell if they'll do a good one or not. A very common new builder's problem. Parts with no objective. Datsun Spirit could probably get you some super lightweight pistons in a smaller bore. He probably has them just not listed on his site. If you still want them. ITB's are just one small part of the package. The holes that allow and control air to the cylinders. You have to have a way to supply fuel to the TB's. Search Derek's past threads, he built his own ITB's and used Megasquirt for fueling. Get the books by Monroe and Honsowetz about rebuiliding and modifying. They're a good starting point. Could be one reason that you're having new ideas no one else has tried. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-ebook/dp/B006VUICHG https://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049

This might not be true. No offense. Lots of manufacturers out there.

I think that I used a long screwdriver with my finger as a fulcrum. Not positive. It's a "brute force" operation.

Who is "they"? If you show people what docs you;'re working from they can go to the same ones and draw their own conclusions. Who knows, you might be misinterpreting what you're reading.

Well, that was the impetus for the RT design so you're on the right track. Your angles might be the determining factor in how you proceed. If you need a higher nose, maybe a shimmed stock mount and a snubber on top. If you need a lower nose, maybe the GM mount on top with or without a snubber on the bottom. The basic RT design has a lot of flexibility in how it's used. The mustache bar ends are pretty loosely held so urethane makes it less floppy in general. I solved my diff noise transmission problem by using washers on the ends of the sleeves to create a small air gap. Basically created a longer inner sleeve). The way that they're designed with their inner sleeve. the urethane gets compressed when installed and transmits more noise. My theory.

One of these might make it easy to remove the nut, of the correct size of course. I removed one from an old broken transmission. Didn't even want to think about putting it back together. http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-85203-quadbox-ratcheting-wrench-13-16-7-8-15-16-1.html

The lowered nose doesn't seem to cause big problems. It's just one of those interesting asides. Here's a couple of links, see #5 in the first one. Most of the designs were copied directly from RT's first drawings, with minor modification. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/85384-rt-mounts-are-ready-for-shipping/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50209-ron-tyler-style-front-diff-mount/

The bushings on the diff are mainly to avoid or remove the "clunk" during shifting that is common from a loose diff mount. The ES bushing has interlocking metal pieces inside so the bottom bump stop is not necessary. The original reason for RT to develop his modified mount was because he kept breaking the stock mount, behind a powerful small block chevy engine. It's actually "wrong" for an L6 application when used with the overhead GM mount because it lowers the diff nose compared to stock. It fixes the clunk but probably adds a little drive shaft vibration. When it's used with a bump stop on the top and the stock mount on the bottom it's essentially just a movement snubber, not really a "mount". The urethane bushings in the mustache bar also help with the clunk removal but are known to transmit diff noise in to the cabin. Many people go back to rubber due to the extra diff whine they hear after replacing the old worn out rubber. Beware. Many people go to polyurethane because it's cheaper than the stock rubber. There's no huge benefit, overall, to converting from rubber to polyurethane. You might consider evaluating each step individually before going crazy.

Just for fun. Always intrigued by unsupported comments. https://www.instagram.com/jpngarage/?hl=en and the other links https://www.facebook.com/jpn.garage.inc/ http://jpngarage.com/

No, if they're Tokico's they will fit. It's the gland nut that matters though, for the tube diameter. You were close. The point is, as stated, he might be able to make them work, depending on what he has now. Here's a good thread from another forum describing how Tokico used one shock across multiple platforms. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50654-are-tokicos-really-gone/

Some inserts/shocks/struts/cartridges use a removable spacer on the end. You might be able to knock it off and have the right length.

It's probably just a bump stop. The parts store usually have them in on the racks. They're typically used on the ends of old-timey traction bars. Here's some - https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2/166-8275892-3179244?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=Energy+Suspension+bump+stop Here's the GM mount that goes on top of the diff, bolted to the RT mount. https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-3-1158G-Transmission-Mount/dp/B008SA69DG Summit links are getting redirected.

He could also cut the tubes down to 240Z length and move the spring perches, if he wants to keep the hubs and links. He'd have to find a way to rethread the top of the tube for the gland nut. Almost in to "coil-over" territory. He'd need the shorter shock/inserts also.

Experiment - I'll type in the link address and see if it still gets changed by vigilink. www.summitracing.com Edit - it still changes to vigilink. So it's not a Paste thing. Must happen in between. That's the extent of my internet knowledge. Good luck SuperDan.

Clicking the Summit link still takes you to vigilink. If you go up to my post #3 and "copy link address" using a right-click, this is what you get when you paste it. So the vigilink redirect seems to be embedded in hybridz.org, disguised as summit.com. Must happen when it's pasted from outside. http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_148339678546515&key=f7179343930a8f28263c3ebbccb8a0a8&libId=ixgo325d0100guav000DA9f0ypd7v&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.hybridz.org%2Ftopic%2F126603-site-redirecting-links-to-viglink%2F%23entry1184016&v=1&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.summitracing.com%2F&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.hybridz.org%2Findex.php%3Fapp%3Dcore%26module%3Dsearch%26do%3Dactive%26search_app%3Dforums&title=Site%20redirecting%20links%20to%20VIGLINK%20-%20Site%20Support%20-%20HybridZ&txt=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.summitracing.com%2F Here's the summit link pasted from outside, again. https://www.summitracing.com/ Edit - just tried the newly pasted from outside Summit link and it still redirects. You've got some weird malware changing the content of the link as its pasted.