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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    Just reinstall the Nissan R180 with the T3 bar and determine if it 's the T3 bar or the Subaru diff that's the problem . If the measurements aren't possible and you have the parts you might as well swap them and figure out what combinations work and which don't. If the Nissan diff doesn't work with the T3 bar then you can focus on the T3 bar. If it does fit then you can focus on the Subaru diff differences.
  2. NewZed
    Those pistons won't work because an L24 block's bore is too small, not too big. 83mm. Specs. are in the FSM, Engine Mechanical chapter. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/ You haven't defined the job, so no way to tell if they'll do a good one or not. A very common new builder's problem. Parts with no objective. Datsun Spirit could probably get you some super lightweight pistons in a smaller bore. He probably has them just not listed on his site. If you still want them. ITB's are just one small part of the package. The holes that allow and control air to the cylinders. You have to have a way to supply fuel to the TB's. Search Derek's past threads, he built his own ITB's and used Megasquirt for fueling. Get the books by Monroe and Honsowetz about rebuiliding and modifying. They're a good starting point. Could be one reason that you're having new ideas no one else has tried. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-ebook/dp/B006VUICHG https://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049
  3. NewZed
    This might not be true. No offense. Lots of manufacturers out there.
  4. NewZed
    I think that I used a long screwdriver with my finger as a fulcrum. Not positive. It's a "brute force" operation.
  5. NewZed
    Who is "they"? If you show people what docs you;'re working from they can go to the same ones and draw their own conclusions. Who knows, you might be misinterpreting what you're reading.
  6. NewZed
    Well, that was the impetus for the RT design so you're on the right track. Your angles might be the determining factor in how you proceed. If you need a higher nose, maybe a shimmed stock mount and a snubber on top. If you need a lower nose, maybe the GM mount on top with or without a snubber on the bottom. The basic RT design has a lot of flexibility in how it's used. The mustache bar ends are pretty loosely held so urethane makes it less floppy in general. I solved my diff noise transmission problem by using washers on the ends of the sleeves to create a small air gap. Basically created a longer inner sleeve). The way that they're designed with their inner sleeve. the urethane gets compressed when installed and transmits more noise. My theory.
  7. NewZed
    One of these might make it easy to remove the nut, of the correct size of course. I removed one from an old broken transmission. Didn't even want to think about putting it back together. http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-85203-quadbox-ratcheting-wrench-13-16-7-8-15-16-1.html
  8. NewZed
    The lowered nose doesn't seem to cause big problems. It's just one of those interesting asides. Here's a couple of links, see #5 in the first one. Most of the designs were copied directly from RT's first drawings, with minor modification. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/85384-rt-mounts-are-ready-for-shipping/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50209-ron-tyler-style-front-diff-mount/
  9. NewZed
    The bushings on the diff are mainly to avoid or remove the "clunk" during shifting that is common from a loose diff mount. The ES bushing has interlocking metal pieces inside so the bottom bump stop is not necessary. The original reason for RT to develop his modified mount was because he kept breaking the stock mount, behind a powerful small block chevy engine. It's actually "wrong" for an L6 application when used with the overhead GM mount because it lowers the diff nose compared to stock. It fixes the clunk but probably adds a little drive shaft vibration. When it's used with a bump stop on the top and the stock mount on the bottom it's essentially just a movement snubber, not really a "mount". The urethane bushings in the mustache bar also help with the clunk removal but are known to transmit diff noise in to the cabin. Many people go back to rubber due to the extra diff whine they hear after replacing the old worn out rubber. Beware. Many people go to polyurethane because it's cheaper than the stock rubber. There's no huge benefit, overall, to converting from rubber to polyurethane. You might consider evaluating each step individually before going crazy.
  10. NewZed
    Just for fun. Always intrigued by unsupported comments. https://www.instagram.com/jpngarage/?hl=en and the other links https://www.facebook.com/jpn.garage.inc/ http://jpngarage.com/
  11. NewZed
    No, if they're Tokico's they will fit. It's the gland nut that matters though, for the tube diameter. You were close. The point is, as stated, he might be able to make them work, depending on what he has now. Here's a good thread from another forum describing how Tokico used one shock across multiple platforms. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50654-are-tokicos-really-gone/
  12. NewZed
    Some inserts/shocks/struts/cartridges use a removable spacer on the end. You might be able to knock it off and have the right length.
  13. NewZed
    It's probably just a bump stop. The parts store usually have them in on the racks. They're typically used on the ends of old-timey traction bars. Here's some - https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2/166-8275892-3179244?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=Energy+Suspension+bump+stop Here's the GM mount that goes on top of the diff, bolted to the RT mount. https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-3-1158G-Transmission-Mount/dp/B008SA69DG Summit links are getting redirected.
  14. NewZed
    He could also cut the tubes down to 240Z length and move the spring perches, if he wants to keep the hubs and links. He'd have to find a way to rethread the top of the tube for the gland nut. Almost in to "coil-over" territory. He'd need the shorter shock/inserts also.
  15. NewZed
    Experiment - I'll type in the link address and see if it still gets changed by vigilink. www.summitracing.com Edit - it still changes to vigilink. So it's not a Paste thing. Must happen in between. That's the extent of my internet knowledge. Good luck SuperDan.
  16. NewZed
    Clicking the Summit link still takes you to vigilink. If you go up to my post #3 and "copy link address" using a right-click, this is what you get when you paste it. So the vigilink redirect seems to be embedded in hybridz.org, disguised as summit.com. Must happen when it's pasted from outside. http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_148339678546515&key=f7179343930a8f28263c3ebbccb8a0a8&libId=ixgo325d0100guav000DA9f0ypd7v&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.hybridz.org%2Ftopic%2F126603-site-redirecting-links-to-viglink%2F%23entry1184016&v=1&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.summitracing.com%2F&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.hybridz.org%2Findex.php%3Fapp%3Dcore%26module%3Dsearch%26do%3Dactive%26search_app%3Dforums&title=Site%20redirecting%20links%20to%20VIGLINK%20-%20Site%20Support%20-%20HybridZ&txt=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.summitracing.com%2F Here's the summit link pasted from outside, again. https://www.summitracing.com/ Edit - just tried the newly pasted from outside Summit link and it still redirects. You've got some weird malware changing the content of the link as its pasted.
  17. NewZed
    The high O2 and HC indicate a misfiring cylinder. Gasoilne (HC) and oxygen (O2) are passing through the misfire without catching fire and combining to form CO2 and H2O. Focus on spark, check valve lash.
  18. NewZed
    You can't see the pedestal in either picture. The pictures aren't worth much, they don't tell anything.
  19. NewZed
    The stock factory mount on the crossmember is most likely right. The factory mustache bar is flexible and it's mounted with very flexible rubber bushings. You're replacing a bunch of sloppy flexible stuff with rigid parts. You could just slot those urethane bushings to make those parts work together. If the distances are correct, up and down, take a rat tail file and slot the holes to give the bolts room to let the nose move up.
  20. NewZed
    Don't overlook that one very important part of mounting the diff is that the angle of the diff's pinion shaft has to match the angle of the transmission's output shaft. So that the u-joints of the propeller shaft will be in-phase, to avoid vibration. You shouldn't be modifying anything until you know the angles are right. The T3 bar shouldn't change the angle of the diff if it's designed to work with the stock mount. And the Technoversion piece is well-known and seems to work well. And, since you're using the Technoversion piece with a stock mount, you shouldn't really be worrying about it. It's not really a mount the way that you're using it, it's just a snubber for the nose of the diff. You could remove it entirely while you figure out how to make the stock factory mount work. Then install the snubber.
  21. NewZed
    Could also be that the car has been in an accident. If you give the name of the company that made your front mount people could tell you if it should work with the T3 bar.
  22. NewZed
    I only see one shadowy picture of things that are hard to define. Bad picture and only one. I can tell that you don't have the crossmember installed though. That would be a good clue of how far off the front mount is. I attached a picture of a diff nose sitting in its stock mount (borrowed it from classiczcars.com). Notice how close it is to the crossmember. The rear bar and the front mount have to work together. Obviously one of your parts has to go. Pick one. You seem too attached to that front mount, like you don't want to give it up. Did you make it yourself? If the T3 bar is right then the front mount isn't. Pretty simple. Good luck.
  23. NewZed
    Sounds like you're trying to force together two aftermarket parts that aren't compatible. The aluminum bar was probably deigned for the factory front mount. What you're describing suggests that your aftermarket upper front mount is incorrect for the application. Is it so ugly that you can't show a picture? Might explain the situation.
  24. NewZed
    Way too low for what? It's still not clear what you're trying to mount the nose of the diff to. You said it was some sort of custom front diff mount. Could be that the flexibility of the stock bar just allowed you to use a "wrong" diff mount in the front.
  25. NewZed
    In the same vein as aarang's comment, learn what you have. Could just be cam timing holding your RPM down. And beware discounted parts. There are some shiny cool-looking parts out there that don't actually fit and work. The stock injection parts aren't really very expensive. And the turbo variant requires more than the NA design. You should get specs on all of your parts and go through the engine to be sure that they're installed correctly. Cam timing, ignition timing, etc. Measure cylinder pressure, check valve lash, examine spark plugs... Find out the specs on the cam. Know what you have.
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