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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    I have a Pathfinder CAS apart, slotted disk removed, trying to figure out why it doesn't seem to work work and don't see any light when I apply 12 volts across the red and black wires (cgsheen's test method). Has anybody actually seen the LED light up with a CAS apart? Seem like it would be a simple first test method, rather than last after dinking around test that I just did. I think mine's dead, but verification is always good.
  2. NewZed
    Not necessarily. Consider the working temperature of the transmission,probably at least engine temperature. The aluminum will expand quite a bit. If it drops in with a little bit of heat, it will be a "loose" fit during usage.
  3. NewZed
    Some reading - http://www.nskamericas.com/cps/rde/dtr/na_en/na_literature_bearing/07_TechTalk__Getting_a_good_fit.pdf http://www.ntnamericas.com/en/product-support-and-training/shaft-and-housing-fits
  4. NewZed
    You said said disssembly but it looks like you mean assembly. "we ended witha bearing stuck in the bellhousing while disassembling it. " Sounds like you used a .015 mm interference fit and now you cant' get the bearing in. .015 mm on a 62 mm bearing. Doesn't seem like it should be a problem. I know what I'd do but the pros would have a more valuable opinion. Good luck.
  5. NewZed
    Can't tell if you're about to open the hole or you've already done it. You could measure the existing hole to see what Nissan did. I think that Nissan set their specs for a hot transmission case. For example, the countershaft bearing preload shim.
  6. NewZed
    Humor. If we took a poll I bet that 240's and 280's would be more popular than 260's. It's just one of those things that is.
  7. NewZed
    Low number 240Z's are a hot item because they are the first Z cars. You have a low number 260Z. Not really the same. For whatever reason, the 4 and the 8 just look right , and the 6 doesn't do it for many people. Any good rust-free early body style is probably worth something to somebody though. You might put it on the market before you part it out. Make some cash instead.
  8. NewZed
    You're right. And I was half right until I got back in to it. Not sure what I was thinking. Corrected.
  9. NewZed
    Front is where the headlights go. Just keeps things so much simpler. Wrong for the ZX >>>> (The rubber bushing needs to go on the side with the nut). Edited. The mechanism I was talking about is the one that breaks the rod tip off. The hard PU puts a side load on it as the rod moves up and down. I broke one on my car. It took a couple of months of groaning over the driveway entrances. You could hear a lot of load on them. Rubber on the nut side is quiet now. Always an interesting topic.
  10. NewZed
    Edited for general confusion. Wrong >>>> If it's the same mechanism shouldn't it be PU (poly) on the back and rubber in front? Opposite of the Z. The PU takes the braking load and the rubber lets the rod end wiggle freely.
  11. NewZed
    For the 280Z's, with the rod in compression under forward braking, it's polyurethane on the back of the rods that causes the problems, especially if the worn out rubber inner control arm bushings are kept. Puts a bending load on the tip. Rubber on the back and PU up front is the recommended way. But you have a 280ZX, with the rod under tension when forward braking. I haven't seen much on those rods breaking. It's a different design than the 280Z.
  12. NewZed
    Probably should have went .zip. .rar is uncommon.
  13. NewZed
    Get the part number here - https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/pertronix-ignitor-ii-solid-state-ignition-systems/make/nissan/engine-size/2-4l-2393cc/engine-family/nissan-inline-6-cylinder Then get the instruction sheet here - http://www.pertronix.com/support/instructions/ The coil specs and other details are there. You might examine your distributor closely to see if it's worth keeping before you spend the money on a Pertronix Ignitor. Check the advance mechanisms, bushings, etc. If you need to replace the distributor there are other ways to go electronic.
  14. NewZed
    The guys that put that site together did great work and provided a very valuable service for all of us. But they made a few mistakes. Probably thinking about the link colors when they were putting their labels on (EFI and IGN are both Green). There are are actually clues if you look at everything in the picture. Nissan built the cars. Use their diagrams to be sure.
  15. NewZed
    There's an ignition link. And there's an EFI link. There is no "ignition EFI" link. The free downloads on nicoclub have diagrams.
  16. NewZed
    You meant "incorrectly". The EFI link isn't even in that fusible link block you're replacing. The red link on the atlanticz page is rated too high for the one it's replacing. The gauges are shown in the FSM. Brown is lower gauge (lower current capability) than both green and black.
  17. NewZed
    The cam towers can be manipulated to get the cam to rotate freely. It never seems to be a problem. Not sure what you mean about the pitting. There's no pictures. Sanding doesn't sound like a good idea though. It's not the pits, it's the bumps, that would be more of a problem. And sand. What's the letter stamped on the end of the cam shaft? They might be the same profile.
  18. NewZed
    That looks like the bottom of the shock, and a bump stop of undetermined length. Can't see travel in the picture.
  19. NewZed
    Does the head have a threaded CHTS boss, between #5 and #6 (approximately)? That's the simple indicator for MN47, the 280Z N47 doesn't have it. Don't know if you can get to 37 from 44 without welding. The MN47 is about 38-39, from past posts I've seen (from jmortensen and others), so 37 is about a shaved MN47.
  20. NewZed
    I would check all of your timing associated items. Make sure you really know where TDC is, degree the cam, don't use a hole in a sprocket, verify that the MSD program is actually creating those advance numbers (the curve you showed is what's supposed to happen, but might not be what is), that kind of stuff. There have been a couple of posts recently from people who got cams that din't match the profile cards. Not sure where they ended up. You might not even have the cam profile you think you have. Don't trust - verify.
  21. NewZed
    Not an expert but the shape of your torque curve shows a steep drop at 5800 RPM. Seems like it might be a sign of just not enough air flowing in to the cylinders. Choked off somewhere in the path. Probably obvious, but I thought I'd go ahead and state it. If I read your timing curve right it shows 6 degrees pulled, from 35, so 29 degrees total advance at 6500 RPM. 26 total at 5000, and 25 at 4000. Most L series tuned for power are set to max advance are 34 at 2500 and above, thereabouts, from what I've seen. So timing seems retarded, overall. Might just need a few tweaks and some more tuning. You only gave two numbers on the cam profile, bit didn't indicate if it was degree'd properly or maybe it was just put on a timing chain sprocket notch number. Just another small detail. Seems like the cam profile should push much higher. A comparable Schneider cam shows a 3500 - 7500 working range (however they figure that). http://schneidercams.com/dastsunL6_NA.aspx
  22. NewZed
    Nobody from that club on the site? Anyone know any of them? https://web.archive.org/web/20160707184806/http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/aboutus/executive.html
  23. NewZed
    You could chuck the pallnet rail up in a lathe and turn the sections between injectors down so it looks like tubing. Once you add up the cost of injector bungs (caps) and rail and machine work you'll see why the pallnet rails are a pretty good bargain. Don't forget that the injector "caps" have to withstand fuel pressure, they'll pop off. Even that copper rail needs a clamping/mounting system. What looks simple actually gets complex before you can use it. Good luck.
  24. NewZed
    Did you build the engine? Is it new, used, old? More engine info.
  25. NewZed
    I've got a set from a severely abused 5 speed. Somebody like duragg could probably file the dog teeth back in to shape. Maybe you're at that level? Don't know if it's worth a shot or not, they'll probably grind otherwise. I get up north now and them and could drop them at at your favorite shop, maybe. Duragg might also have a good set. He ran through a few transmissions I think, before he moved on to better equipment. He seems to wander by the forum occasionally. Worth a message. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110792-high-rpm-shifting-dynamics/
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