NewZed

For the 280Z's, with the rod in compression under forward braking, it's polyurethane on the back of the rods that causes the problems, especially if the worn out rubber inner control arm bushings are kept. Puts a bending load on the tip. Rubber on the back and PU up front is the recommended way. But you have a 280ZX, with the rod under tension when forward braking. I haven't seen much on those rods breaking. It's a different design than the 280Z.

Probably should have went .zip. .rar is uncommon.

Get the part number here - https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/pertronix-ignitor-ii-solid-state-ignition-systems/make/nissan/engine-size/2-4l-2393cc/engine-family/nissan-inline-6-cylinder Then get the instruction sheet here - http://www.pertronix.com/support/instructions/ The coil specs and other details are there. You might examine your distributor closely to see if it's worth keeping before you spend the money on a Pertronix Ignitor. Check the advance mechanisms, bushings, etc. If you need to replace the distributor there are other ways to go electronic.

The guys that put that site together did great work and provided a very valuable service for all of us. But they made a few mistakes. Probably thinking about the link colors when they were putting their labels on (EFI and IGN are both Green). There are are actually clues if you look at everything in the picture. Nissan built the cars. Use their diagrams to be sure.

There's an ignition link. And there's an EFI link. There is no "ignition EFI" link. The free downloads on nicoclub have diagrams.

You meant "incorrectly". The EFI link isn't even in that fusible link block you're replacing. The red link on the atlanticz page is rated too high for the one it's replacing. The gauges are shown in the FSM. Brown is lower gauge (lower current capability) than both green and black.

The cam towers can be manipulated to get the cam to rotate freely. It never seems to be a problem. Not sure what you mean about the pitting. There's no pictures. Sanding doesn't sound like a good idea though. It's not the pits, it's the bumps, that would be more of a problem. And sand. What's the letter stamped on the end of the cam shaft? They might be the same profile.

That looks like the bottom of the shock, and a bump stop of undetermined length. Can't see travel in the picture.

Does the head have a threaded CHTS boss, between #5 and #6 (approximately)? That's the simple indicator for MN47, the 280Z N47 doesn't have it. Don't know if you can get to 37 from 44 without welding. The MN47 is about 38-39, from past posts I've seen (from jmortensen and others), so 37 is about a shaved MN47.

I would check all of your timing associated items. Make sure you really know where TDC is, degree the cam, don't use a hole in a sprocket, verify that the MSD program is actually creating those advance numbers (the curve you showed is what's supposed to happen, but might not be what is), that kind of stuff. There have been a couple of posts recently from people who got cams that din't match the profile cards. Not sure where they ended up. You might not even have the cam profile you think you have. Don't trust - verify.

Not an expert but the shape of your torque curve shows a steep drop at 5800 RPM. Seems like it might be a sign of just not enough air flowing in to the cylinders. Choked off somewhere in the path. Probably obvious, but I thought I'd go ahead and state it. If I read your timing curve right it shows 6 degrees pulled, from 35, so 29 degrees total advance at 6500 RPM. 26 total at 5000, and 25 at 4000. Most L series tuned for power are set to max advance are 34 at 2500 and above, thereabouts, from what I've seen. So timing seems retarded, overall. Might just need a few tweaks and some more tuning. You only gave two numbers on the cam profile, bit didn't indicate if it was degree'd properly or maybe it was just put on a timing chain sprocket notch number. Just another small detail. Seems like the cam profile should push much higher. A comparable Schneider cam shows a 3500 - 7500 working range (however they figure that). http://schneidercams.com/dastsunL6_NA.aspx

Nobody from that club on the site? Anyone know any of them? https://web.archive.org/web/20160707184806/http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/aboutus/executive.html

You could chuck the pallnet rail up in a lathe and turn the sections between injectors down so it looks like tubing. Once you add up the cost of injector bungs (caps) and rail and machine work you'll see why the pallnet rails are a pretty good bargain. Don't forget that the injector "caps" have to withstand fuel pressure, they'll pop off. Even that copper rail needs a clamping/mounting system. What looks simple actually gets complex before you can use it. Good luck.

Did you build the engine? Is it new, used, old? More engine info.

I've got a set from a severely abused 5 speed. Somebody like duragg could probably file the dog teeth back in to shape. Maybe you're at that level? Don't know if it's worth a shot or not, they'll probably grind otherwise. I get up north now and them and could drop them at at your favorite shop, maybe. Duragg might also have a good set. He ran through a few transmissions I think, before he moved on to better equipment. He seems to wander by the forum occasionally. Worth a message. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110792-high-rpm-shifting-dynamics/

Go to Autozone or similar and look at their pre-fitted, straight, coated steel fuel line repair tubing. With the right fittings it might give you what you want. You mentioned "caps" but barbs are era-correct. Same vein - what are you trying to change? Why not use the stock shape?

It's a stock factory piece installed on all 280Z's from the factory. They just made it ugly. It's shown in the Rear Axle chapter, twice, but the illustrations are poor. "Damper plate".

I don't know what means. But, good luck with it. I have a GM HEI system, module and coil, on my L6, using the 280Z VR signal. My tach doesn't work without a condenser on the negative terminal wire.

There's a tach output terminal on the typical HEI distributor from what I see on the old interweb. It's probably just a branch from the coil negative post. Easy to check.

With the key On you should see battery voltage at the tach end of the wire if it's connected to the coil negative terminal as it should be. The 280Z tach just counts the voltage pulses on the negative post of the coil as the coil charges and discharges.

Do you know what the signal is? Did you measure voltage at the tach end of the blue wire? Have you looked at the wiring diagram? Really, the basics are pretty easy with a meter. Get everything connected correctly, then you can focus on why the needle doesn't move. With a meter you don't have to worry about what the terminals look like. Who recalibrated your tach, and is it the stock 1975 280Z tach? Are you using the stock 280Z harness connection at the tach? Aftermarket tachs can have different wiring schemes.

You really want just a one piece L6 dust plate for a manual transmission. The E and the T don't really matter. "ET" might throw some people off. And Nissan calls it an end plate or rear plate, for any internet searching.

Is this going to be streetable or just something to rip around the corn fields in? 1979 280ZX's have several possible differentials, from a 3.36 R180 to a 3.7 R200. An R180 might not last long.

No hug? You need to add some detail. There are some considerations and some simple tests you can do. It's not even clear what you mean by nothing. Could mean no blue wire, could mean blue wire doesn't work. Could be the resistor fell out.

Thanks. With the technical detail you've added a person might be able to get one of these to work. $8.50! For those on a budget. Probably need some added protection from the elements though, I'd guess. Not an expert, just like to solve puzzles. Messing around. Hopefully, somebody will come back and confirm a swap, although the HEI module swap is already well-proven and cheap. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/bosch-bip373-coil-driver-mod-kit/ https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/bosch-bip373-ignition/ https://www.diyautotune.com/downloads/products/bip373/bip373_datasheet.pdf