NewZed

Here it is - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124155-cv-kit-for-sti-r180/

There was a thread a short while ago where we made fun of the absurdity of the 1000 HP claim on their web site. The claim disappeared soon after, like somebody from there saw the thread. Sounds like the guy you talked to didn't get the message. I took a quick look and couldn't find it but it's out there. I'll post a link if I do. Here's their web page. No 1000 HP claims there, just "big power". http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/datsun

Do you mean "custom" when you say "proprietary"? Basically, a one-off, but common design, with a larger inner hole in the inner race for the larger shaft? Maybe smaller balls to allow material for the race strength? Nice work.

Who is "we", and where is "the rock"?

It's a 1976 problem.

It's not the alternator itself it's the wire used as the S (sense) wire. The atlanticz scheme connects the relay wire to constant power. The zcreations scheme changes the way the relay gets its power too but doesn't leave it on all the time. When I tried it the light didn't work anymore. Both schemes will get the alternator working though. Just beware of the relay and what it does. If it works the way you like it, use it. It's described in the Meters and Gauges section of the Body Electrical chapter. Has its own complete writeup.

Here you go. This wayback machine site is pretty crazy - https://web.archive.org/web/20160307132855if_/http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html On a 76 you'll probably have a problem with the brake check warning lamp relay staying on and draining your battery. You can just disconnect while you figure out a way to get it power only when the engine is running. It's under the passenger seat. You'll hear it click when you reconnect the battery.

The circuit for the gauge grounds through the "thermal transmitter" threads. No ground might mean no reading. Put meter probes on the transmitter body and the engine block and make sure you have continuity. Teflon tape and/or thread sealer might disrupt that ground circuit. The circuit is shown on page EL-83 (kind of a goofy diagram). It's the Y wire. Upper right is the transmitter. There's also a voltage regulator that's part of the gauge.

I thought the C and the W indicated the type of synchros. FS5C___ is servo/Porsche style in steel, and FS5W___ is Warner in brass. Some inter-info - http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Synchros&style=m

It's common for the Z's. Not sure how bad it is for the ZX's. Search "surge tank" and/or "swirl pot" on Hybridz. Use Google and "site:hybridz.org" if the site search engine doesn't find anything.

I think that the seals are different also. You might look at everything involved to get a good working and sealing door. Besides the oddness that the next owner will have to deal with. Are the hinges the same? You could remove all of the latching hardware and test fit the doors. You'll either see just a latching problem or things will be more complicated than you anticipated.

Since you only drove it once, apparently, the problem might have nothing at all to do with the tank work. Coincidence. Do some basic troubleshooting and determine if it's a spark or fuel supply problem. Use the FSM and the Fuel Injection Guide. You can get them at nicoclub.com or xenonzcar or classiczcars.com.

Some people slip a hacksaw blade through the hole and cut a slot, then bend it in with a chisel and work it out. But a large vise, the proper size socket or similar for pressing, and a torch for expanding will do the job also.

Here's what the original bushing looks like - https://zcardepot.com/suspension/rear-suspension/spindle-pin-bushing-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-78.html Many people leave that one alone if it's in good shape.

http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

The clevis pin for the pedal to MC rod connection can get a notch worn in it. This will click. I had the problem and anew pin fixed it. They were still available from Nissan a couple of years ago. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-clutch-pedal 8 73 and later - http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/46123h850a

Seems like you're really stretching the assumptions out. Leaded gas had been used for many years without valve-sticking problems. Has it been the same valve each time? Then it's a sticking valve problem, not valves. Seems like you could fix the single valve problem and be fine.

Might be easier to swap the propeller shaft yoke instead, if you can find one. The 240Z's have removable u-joints. Don't forget to consider gear ratios.

Pushing the AFM vane makes the injectors stay open longer, so more fuel at the low pressure. So it does seem like a fuel supply problem. Have you tried pinching the fuel return line to verify that fuel pressure can actually go higher than 38 psi? You could pinch and rev and should get the same effect as opening the vane. Or pressurize the FPR reference (vacuum) hose to increase fuel pressure. Could be the problem is that fuel pressure just isn't rising when the intake manifold pressure does.

The bearing inner race is the outer support for the axle. So if you have a stock bearing and a stock axle it doesn't seem like that end would have any "non-stock" action. Seems like the axle slop would be at the clip end. Is it rocking on the bearing race, like loose splines, or is the bearing race itself moving up and down? It's a tapered bearing so shouldn't really move. The axle has a surface for the bearing and another step for the seal, I believe. The seal won't support anything. Do you have any stock diffs to compare to? Might offer a clue.

Many shops charge a "flat rate" also. Sometimes they win, sometimes you win. Here's a tool - http://repairpal.com/estimator/ford/focus/front-wheel-bearing-replacement-cost

How about a holed FPR diaphragm? At intake vacuum a small amount of extra fuel gets pulled in to the intake manifold. At any boost level at all intake air gets pushed through the diaphragm, replacing fuel with air in the fuel rail. Instant lean condition. Plus only the FPR spring is controlling fuel pressure as the air leaks past the diaphragm so pressure control stops. Fuel is much more viscous than air so the difference between the two leaks would be large.

I've expended quite a bit of work on engines that just needed new plugs, cap and rotor. Did you try a basic tune-up?

You'll know more when you get the second one done. How long did the job take? Most shops have an hourly rate. This is not a Z? They don't have sealed bearings in the front end, and no hub to press in. The hub can be handled without the steering gear. Sounds like you took a big bulky thing in and just thought about the simple operations, not everything involved. You probably pissed off a good shop just to save $10.

There's a labeled drawing in the Service Manual. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/