NewZed

There you go. Spending Porsche money on your Z.

Nahh. Nothing wrong with saving some money. You're just used to living in Canada maybe. $165 is still a lot of money down here, Unless you're in the Porsche game.

It's not the ordering, it's the waiting. There's a basic business problem here. If all of the parts come from the same supplier but people aren't ordering because there's essentially a group buy requirement, then keeping the customers separated kills the demand. Makes no sense. One guy orders from Joe and he says "you'll have to wait until someone else orders a pair", another guy orders from Whitehead and he says the same thing. Both guys cancel or don't order yet the numbers are there. How is that going to work? Especially today, when we're all trained to expect our stuff tomorrow, soon delivered by drone, to our doorstep.

Just trying to keep my knowledge fresh, not arguing. But I have a J30 short nose VLSD with 28 splines. The older shafts slide in and fit but are a bit loose. And one is too short to engage the viscous "clutch" so it's essentially an open without the long axles, of course. What about the short nose/long nose question? Are there other long nose VLSD's besides the 1988 Shiro?

What year car? Is it fuel-injected or carb'ed? Is it factory stock or modified? Will it start with starting fluid?

By "don't fit" do you mean the spline count is different? Or the shafts are too short? Why do you think it's a VLSD? I'm not sure but I think that the Shiro was the only long-nose VLSD, unless Nissan used a long-nose VLSD with different axles on other models. They went to shortnose in 1990 and VLSD for the 300ZX's, from what I can figure. So long-nose would be 1989 or earlier. I think.

Don't forget adhesion. The picture that the Energy Suspension link shows is just an old rubber mount filled with urethane to make it more solid. Getting good adhesion to the metal plates the factory mount uses will probably be difficult. Doesn't matter how strong or stiff it is if it peels off of the steel. Could be one reason that ES has that interlocking design. It puts a compressive load on the material and takes much of the tensile load off of the metal/PU interface. Just saying, it's not as simple as it seems and mistakes can cost.

Can you make a video? I'd like to see it, I'd laugh I'm sure. The gaskets are just compressed rubber that eventually hardens up and shrinks, or the previous guy tried to reuse old shrunken gaskets. Pretty simple repair. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3402 The 3-4 second running then dying is still probably your AFM switch.

You're missing or ignoring the point. Buy a car somebody else built. Let someone else drive it and win races. Buy a video game with cars in it. People are just discussing possibilities and learning a little on the side. Beside that MMM products almost disappeared when MMM went out of business, and Joe needs an order of four to make a new run. What does a person do in the meantime? what if Joe goes out of business? Joe, you should put the need for four orders on your web site. And there's competition now that doesn't seem to need four. Just saying, communication is important.

It was implied in another thread that you were out of stock. So people started looking for alternatives. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126482-27-spline-cv-hub-adaptors/?do=findComment&comment=1182246

If I was jumping in to try this at this point, I might just go to the wrecking yard and pull the flange from the appropriate Toyota diff. Probably charge you about the same. If they're scarce, do the development work on the aftermarket parts for $30 each, then lock it in with the factory part. I like OE parts.

Polyurethane is not inherently stronger than rubber. It's easier to work with, generally, so the aftermarket guys can get crazy with it.

These are almost certainly Asia knockoffs, copied from a factory Toyota part. $30.45! Communicating with the supplier will probably be very difficult. Worth a shot, but odds aren't good, I'd think. With that in mind, consider also that they might not really be 5140, let alone forged. It looks like a fun exercise and might lead to something good, but I wouldn't put too much faith in them when they're done, without some testing. One of those things that's neat if it works but has substantial risk associated. A follow-up might be to find a supplier of the same part, but from a verifiable manufacturer. Probably cost more money but the leg work's been done on the cheap stuff.

You definitely need a 280Z R200 mustache bar if you had an R180 in there. Especially if you have an early 240Z with the diff offset forward Burleigh sells a curved "dog bone" (part #25) to clear the fins for the CLSD diffs. You shouldn't need to change #26. You might be getting misdirected. Swapping an R200 in to a 240Z is pretty well figured out, and the fins just add an extra problem. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97134-steel-brace-for-clsd-r200-finned-cover-use-in-s30-zcar/page-3?hl=burleigh&do=findComment&comment=914568

Sure you didn't mean #25 instead of 26? And the 240Z and 280Z crossmembers look the same in the FSM drawings. All bolt holes are on the same line. If you're trying to use the R180 rubber with an R200 that might be your issue. I think that the early rubber, or the R180 rubber, might be different. Can't remember which, on the R200 swaps.

It's possible to remove and install completely assembled. You just need to have the right tools and room to use them. A leveler on your hoisting rig, for example. A way to lift the tail of the transmission when it's under the car. The engine and trans together is pretty heavy. The preferred way would be the one that you're comfortable with, I'd say.

It's on zcar.com, called "1976 280z wiring problems". Post #7.

I think that I just read some posts about a "key in ignition" buzzer,and the associated wiring at the ignition column. Somebody started one of those "where do these wires go" threads. It's recent, maybe this forum, maybe zcar.com. If that loose wire end was shorted, who knows.

You should make a sig with year of car and modifications so people know what wiring system you're working with. Too many pages to try to figure it out. Really though you should just sit down with a wiring diagram and a meter and verify continuity to the positive cable on things that get power and continuity to the negative cable on things that get grounded. You're just shooting in the dark and blowing holes in things you can't see at this point. Your new motor deserves the time.

Stock valve seals are too tall. Valve springs might bind. There's a bunch of practical stuff already written on the forum somewhere. are

A similar path has already been blazed. A short summary at #20 here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121328-snapping-stub-axles-now-what/ Some good pictures at #18 here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117652-finally-blew-an-axle/ Oops. wrong side for RebekahsZ. Still, similar topic.

It made 17 volts before he swapped the alternator. Now it makes 16+.

I don't think that there's less material at the typical break point, is there? I thought that they usually broke at the spot where the splines end. That would be the same size for both Nissan and these. Many shafts are designed to be thinner in the middle, with a thicker spline diameter, to spread the load across more material. But many are also designed for manufacturing efficiency and low cost, like Nissan's.

That's a nice design those Silverproject mounts use. Simple but effective. Don't know why they call them "solid", it gives the wrong impression.