tfreer85

Well, I'll make a pitch for a motor i have for sale. 350 bored .030", 2 bolt main, 010 High nickel content block, Speed-pro hyperuetetic .125" dome top pistons about 10:1 CR on 74cc heads. Reground crank, new Elgin Pro camshaft 224 duration at .50, new valves, new springs, ground valve seats, Pro-Street torquer manifold, new oil pump, freshly rebuilt from the ground up. New water pump, holley fuel pump, harmonic balancer, new chrome valve covers, new chrome oil pan, ARP bolts throughout. It is Iron-headed headed however, and there is a single bolt broken off were the transmission bolts up. Should be a simple removal. It has been sitting for about 6months, i do twist it over reqularly. All i'm asking is 1700 + shipping, its just what I have in parts alone not including any machine work, I'll include the engine stand as well. PM and let me know price is negotiable. Tyson

I believe it was Tony240ZT, from Bakersfield, he used it on his 7MGTE swap. Very cool idea. I can't find the posts for it though. Tyson

Man o Man, if there weren't three days left, I'd put in a bid just to say i bid on it. I'd love to have one those some day. Tyson

Gosh I love that show. That was great, good post. Tyson

Sweetness, that thing sounds good. Makes me love Z's even more, one potent little car. Tyson

I'm always scheming about different cars and engines, but I was curious about an L6 Exhaust Manifold. Since no one (that I know of) still makes an turbo manifold for the L6 I was wondering if anyone has ever done a setup like this? This is for a NA Supra. Design changes to consider with this manifold, would be mounting the turbo facing downward as to not run it into the intake manifold. So my question becomes how hard would it be to fabricate a design simialr to this? Also would it offer any significant power gains over a stock manifold to spend the money on it? Is there any thing else that you would change about this design? Is there a completely seperate design that would flow better, such as a log manifold or other style? Thanks, Tyson

I never knew porsches had moons in orbit around them...

Hey, I'M a member there, never thought that they would like the Z. I gotta go make some comments now, spread some Z knowledge. Tyson

Well see I even asked for the LT1 for the same stuff mentioned in the LT4 with more miles was $3500. Every jy that I called had pricing very similar to that as well. So I don't know. Didn't know if it was a good deal or not. Tyson

Okay, so I called up some wrecking yards around me looking for an LT based motor. I found one an LT4 Corvette motor including: T-56 Manual transmission ECU Complete Wiring Harness All Accessories (AC, Power Steering, etc.) Guage Cluster 40k Miles $4,000 Now thats for a complete motor set, for a long block LT1 the cost is $1500 including Heads Block Intake Manifold Oil Pan Valve covers etc. No wiring No ECU +75k Milwa Then a T-56 for another $1750. Which do you guys think is a better deal? $4000 for everything or $3250 for less, but having to get more parts seperately? Seems like its kinda high in price and that i'm getting more stuff than i really need. Opinions? Thanks, Tyson

Yes bakersield is in the top 5 for worst air quality in the nation. The problem for us is all the bay area smog gets blown into the valley then gets trapped in our basin which in return does make for bad air. Also we have a lot of farm land that was until recently, could kick up as much dirt and have tractors as dirty as they wanted. However I have lived in Bakersfield for 20yrs and the most amount of problems I've had was MINOR activity endused asthma as a kid. My grandma who is 90yrs old has lived here since the age of 15, the air does "look" dirty as so it does in most major metropolitan areas. You get used to it, but the pros of Bakersfield and the number of criteria that it meets of yours IMO makes it a good option for you. Tyson

Okay so I'll make a pitch for my town Bakersfield. We are 30-45 minutes to the drag strip, and about 45-60mins from Buttonwillow race way. We are also, 1hr 45min away from Pismo/San Luis area (I'm headed there in 5 minutes) about an 1hr and 45min from LA/Malibu/Westwood area. And about 4hr 30min from Sacramento. We are close by to camping, mountains, snow, beaches, deserts, and have a large portion of automotive activity. You can still get housing for relatively inexpensive and if you move to the right places you can get land and shops. It is considered a great place to raise a family, conservative, good schooling, and a lot of expanding business. Personal trainers and Dieticians pull down some big dough here, especially the large influx of LA people moving here. I have trained with some of the best in town and can put you in contact with them if you'd like. We are considered the middle of everywhere, because anything you could be interested is near by. The only downfall is the summers can reach triple digits, however its not that bad. The winters are cold, fall is cool, and spring is perfect temperature. You don't have to worry about a whole lot of rain, just a little bit of fog. So I'd highly recommend it it seems to fit most of your requirements. In comparison for the cost of a house 2400sq. ft goes for close to 500,000K in a NICE neighborhood. Consider look into it, Tyson

Sweet, looks like you're going to kick some Honda-*** Be super sweet with a hybridZ patch too. Tyson

OH SWEET JEEEBUS!!!!!!!!! that is HUGE!!! I gotta ask what type of manifold is it? Also you must be expecting some big HP to go all forged, even though its not my car that makes me giggly. Nice job. Tyson

I'd say go with "Hybrid Z" we want to limit who we let in and if they ask then we can tell them about the website. Also I'd go with a straight bottom on the Z too it seems almost likes is a blemish instead of actual. IDK I'd like to see both side-by-side to compare. Tyson

I think it looks really good, however I do think that it needs to say HybridZ, or most people (being stupid) will assume "Hybrid - engineered to be feared," but that is just my opinion. Looking good. Tyson

Check out IPP http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ they have both l24 and L28 rods for $745 http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/nissan-rods.html . Hope that helps. Tyson

Okay then, I just starting my research on the supra motors. I know they can handle the HP. Most of what I've read from dealers, forums, and the such is that their exhaust manifolds do not fit the NA head. I'm going to have to check out that website, you seem to know what you're doing. Just thought I'd share my concern about an NA. Have you ever thought about doing a 1.5JZGTE? Using the 1JZ head on top of the 2J block, since the 1JZ head flows better. Tyson

One thing to watch out for is you are going to have to get a Turbo head to turbo right? A large majority of the manifolds will not bolt up the NA head. Outside of that I think it would be a cool swap, though I do think it will be a lot of work to convert with all the oil squirters, pistons, head change, manifold change, etc. But thats up to you. I say go for it, there a couple members here who have done it with good success. Tyson

WOW qwik240z, I've called several times about it over the weekend with now luck I'll try again tonight. If its true, that'll be nice little treat and well if its for sale for 7K I'm going to have to say goodbye to a Z for while. Its hard to tell though definitely not the crowd to be going out to anything but famoso (drag strip), suprises me that someone heard of it out in Button Willow, about 20-45 minutes away. Also the one that I've heard of has NO IC. Tyson

Valve Float according to Automotive Engines by Tom Gilles states that "valve float is when the valve stays open at high speed instead of following the cam lobe. The resulting clearance between the valve and seat most commonly results in a burned valve. Valve float can also result in bent or broken valves, or cause pistons to crack they strike the open valve." Also on a pushrod design "lifter pump-up occurs when the engine is revved to the point where the valvetrain components seperate do the inertia, not allowing the valve to close." Valve Bounce is "when weak valve springs can keep heat transfer down, which can result in valve face damage. Too little tension also results in accelerated seat wear becuase the valve bounces on the seat." So when the valve hits the seat the spring does not have enough pressure to stop it and seal it against the valve seat. This can also happen during installation in which you bottom out the spring to install valve keepers, no longer allowing the spring to expand to its proper height and causing improper clearance. To check for both of these "check spring tension in both the valve-open and the valve closed positions with a tension tester. Any spring that feels loose when installed on a head should be discarded." Also any spring that appears bent or dis-colored should be replaced. If you are inspecting a head and you notice improper valve-to-seat clearance this is most likely a result of either problem or even a bent valve or valve stem. You can also check by using a spring micrometer to ensure that the spring height is to spec with the manufacturers. As for a Desmondronic valve system, I've never seen one used on anything outside of a street bike recently. Engine Masters Magazine had a write up about it, but just remember its a better system for higher RPM's than the pushrod design. It also did well in the early 1930's in high speed racing, I'll try and find it. Hope this helps, Tyson

Yeah, I'm assuming it doesn't exist because I've yet to hear back from the owner of the car. It would be a really cool swap though. Tyson

Well, then nice work, and welcome to the board, I think you'll get along fine with this crowd. What type of numbers do you expect HP, TQ, and 1/4 wise? Looks like you have everything pretty well thought out. Tyson

Wow, that looks really really nice. Good work, never been a fan of red but it looks good with the flares and black color. Welcome and again nice car. Tyson