johnc

If you want something really nice and can spend some money, there's always the Coast Fab muffler: http://www.coastfab.com/mufflers.html The can be disassembled and the packing material replaced. They offer fiberglass or stainless packing and it looks like they ahve them on sale. These are by far the best mufflers you can buy.

Yeah, unfortunately. I had a customer that was interested in the B1 and he had the wherewithal to buy one. But we couldn't find a place for him to play that didn't include Z06-R Corvettes, Nissan GTRs, and Porsche Turbos. He asked, "Why would I spend 6 figures on an engine guaranteed to lose?" He bought a GTR instead. I would too.

The bushing reduces the chance of failure. Sourcing the bushing is fairly easy, although they are not cheap. I use cast hard bronze bushings.

Also, be careful about adding glass packs, etc. You need to purchase a high quality, all stainless unit. Here's a pic of one I took off a customer car after he built his own exhaust and ran it for 6 months behind a 225 HP L6:

I've run a 3" exhaust with the Borla XR1 Raceline you list above. Its not very loud but I've always raced with either ear plugs or a radio ear buds. Get into that habit right now. A good friend is a professional racer and he's lost all hearing in a very specific frequency range. And I'm with Leon regarding posts about "backpressure" and 3" being too big on a NA engine. Do some research guys before posting Internet myths...

The inside of those rocker panels are wasted. Use this car to learn how to do rust repair and weld but assume you're going to part it out.

Motorcycle oils are also dropping their Zinc levels. For whatever oil you want to research, go to the manufacturer's web site and download the Tech sheet or the MSDS. Both should list the percent of Zinc.

A 225/50-15 Hoosier A6/R5 is actually 248 width. Look through the specs on Tire Rack.

Your R200 should be fine for you anticipated use. One thing to keep in mind - your ring gear bolts are 10mm and most aftermarket diffs (Kazz, OSG, Quaife) have the flange drilled for 12mm or 13mm. You'll need a bushing to take up the difference. The Quaife (and most other helical LSDs) must have a torque load on each wheel for them to work properly. If you lift an inside wheel (FWD or RWD) the diff will go open and spin the inside wheel. You have to run the suspension on the driven end of the car soft to prevent that from happening. For a FWD is advantageous to run the front soft. For a RWD car driving style has to change to work with a soft rear suspension needed to keep from lifting the inside rear wheel. You can artificiality correct for this in the Quaife by adding preload but that creates more heat and slightly more abrupt behavior and doesn't really fix the problem. My Rusty Old Datsun ran Quaifes and it worked well, mostly because I had $10,000 in Penske shocks on the car. I could run with a 14mm rear anti-roll bar and use the low speed compression damping in the shocks to control chassis roll.

I'm in the business I see dozens of horsepower claims every week. And no, you cannot reliably run 600hpm through a R180 diff. I ran 325hp through my two R180s with Quaife diffs and they would get so hot you couldn't touch them without heat resistant gloves. An infrared gun showed that the covers were over 300 degrees F. Doubling the horsepower will cook the R&P in short order. I'm sure a R200 Quaife can handle your 600hp, depending on how you use it. I don't sell Quaife diffs because, through my racing experience, I prefer the OS Giken Super Lock. I generally only sell stuff that I would use on my own race car. If you want an price estimate for a R200 with a OS GIken Super lock installed, please contact me at the e-mail address below. I need to know what gearing you're looking for to see if I can source that before you come in November.

So... you're coming here on the 1st of September and you posted this on September 24th. And there is no such thing a bulletproof. A R200 with an OS Giken Super Lock is about the best you're gonna get but those can be broken just like any other diff on the planet.

No, they are not the same case.

Cooling a S30 for track use means paying attention to all of the little details. All the air entering the front of the car must pass through the radiator - that means sealing all around the radiator and core support, plugging unused holes openings in the cor support, sealing the top of the core support to the hood, and sealing the bottom of the core support to the front valance. You also need to make sure the air has a nice, low pressure place to go after it leaves the radiator. For a pure track car removing all fans helps with that or, at a minimum, make sure your fan shroud seals well and maybe add some flaps that open up at speed. A front belly pan to the cross member also helps create a low pressure area behind the radiator.

If you really ahve 600hp then the R200 is the only way to go. Add the Quaife or better yet, the OS Giken Super Lock and Todd's CV shafts.

The OPs diff is an OBX. Its not a CLSD but a gear driven LSD. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88099-obx-differential-inspection-and-installation/

Just cast Harley transmisison cases with "HOG" engraved in the side. You'll sell a million of them as long as they are shiny and big.

So sorry to hear about the motor and your mom.

Too much preload/breakaway.

If you're running urethane lower control arm bushings remember to not tighten the bolt to the factory spec. You want to tighten it down to the point that it takes a little effort to move the control arm up and down. Maybe 3 lbs. of force from your hand on the end. Make sure you also use a new lock nut on the lower control arm bolt.

Wide band O2 sensors usually have three wires coming out of them. The 1997 Ranger is probably OBD2 so it might use a wide band O2 sensor, but most likely not.

Search and you shall find. Already been discussed here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/44288-i-found-a-cool-engine/page__st__40

Tabco rarely sells direct. You should probably order from MSA or Black Dragon. And yes, Tabco is the only manufacturer of new S30 repair panels here in the USA.

Concrete expansion joints are different then regular bumps in the road. These are sharp edged and require an immediate longitudinal response from the suspension to reduce impact harshness. Urethane and solid TC rod bushings do not allow that longitudinal compliance so the tire takes all of the load because the suspension (shock and busing) cannot react fast enough due to stiction and inertia. Also, the high shaft speed compression damping on the Tokico shocks is incredibly stiff because their valving cannot react fast enough. The tire is a spring with its rate determined primarily by air pressure and secondarily by its construction. A crude number is 50 lb. in. of spring rate per 1 psi., so a tire with 30 psi has an undamped spring rate of 1,500 lb. in. A tire with 55 psi has an undamped spring rate of 2,750 lb. in. Anything you can do to reduce friction in the suspension will help. Adding longitudinal compliance will also help.

Absolutely not true! Stick with Timken, SKF, Koyo, or NTN. I speak from experience, use only those brand of rear wheel bearings. Had a failure with a generic Chinese bearing that ovaled the rear hub and galled a stub axle.

Spring rate generally does not contribute to ride harshness. My racing 240Z had spring rates in the mid to upper 300s with Penske shocks and the folks that rode in it with me said it felt like the car had cat feet. Conversely my 1971 with Eibach progressive springs and HP shocks rode pretty stiff.