myplasticegg

I ended up recovering my own... I couldn't write for 3 days, so rough on the hands. PM sent, willing to sell mine if they get a good home.

You're going to have to drill... so you might as well pull the pan so you're not risking metal shavings doing some fun damage.

The 2.2/2.5 turbo dodge guys JB weld BOV flanges all the time. The one on my old minivan was a 1G DSM flange JB welded to some steel and it saw 14psi daily until I sold it... It works, no way the best solution, but it works. Shane

Mental handicap?

Sky... AWD vue...

exactly what i was looking for! Thanks guys!

I haven't driven my car in about a year and a half and it had some funky vibration/kick when the auto would downshift, just not fun. A lot has changed since then including R/T diff mount, swastikas w/ new rubber, L28et/T5, and new fluid in the R180. I am wondering what style lug nuts I am to use with the Swastika wheels. I currently have some nice, stainless, acorns that I would love to use as long as i won't get any nasty vibration. Do i need a style with a shaft that goes into the wheel? Sorry for the obvious question.. and yes i did search, came up with nothing about the style. Thanks, Shane

and he rolled another zero

Ugh... now the LARPers are going to say they have a reason to dress up this week. Community college just isn't right...

No led in here, but a hot rod none the less... A long night of hanging out with my buds netted the name.

Since you already know your power goal (250rwhp-ish) look around these boards and see what it took for many of the members to reach those power levels. As stated before, 3" exhaust and a GOOD intercooler are a must. Some folks swear by the z31 ECU... but when you can get megasquirt with a wideband for right around $500... why bother with old wires? Do you see yourself wanting more power in the car's future? I know I hate to upgrade twice, that has played a huge role in my build. Before you try to squeeze anymore power out of the car, make sure the brakes/suspension are up for the abuse. Fresh fluid everywhere is a must, as well as a good going over of all rubber parts. No sense in having "sick nasty" power if you can't put it to the ground or stop it in a safe manner. best of luck, Shane

Stated in first post, diff oil temp. would be more useful for a kill switch though...

Saab tried it...

I'm cool with it being gutless, i drove a 1 litre metro as a daily throughout high school. As for the handling, suspension is something that I am willing to put some money into over time. Thanks for the replies! Shane

just put one of her purses on it and say it's a manican(sp??)

I'm thinking about switching up my daily to a notchback/coupe foxbody mustang. I'm feeling the 2.3/T5 for the running gear. What do you guys think? I am not too worried about winter driving; I always make sure to double time for trips when the white stuff is out. I haven't driven one of these and want to know how the ride is compared to say... a lowered 95 sl2 that drinks as much oil as gas... thanks, Shane PS, turbo is not even on the table at this point in time.

Did you happen to notice any ill effects on the paint or glass?

IRS?? that's a nice 60'!

PBS plays it. Your local library should have the DVD seasons.

stay with the vertical core side by side end tanks. Very little pressure drop and the plumbing tends to stay shorter. Treadstone makes some affordable ones in 3 sizes... The medium one fits in the Z without any issues, the large one is about as big as you can get for a Z.

Didn't think airbags came around until 87 or so? Way ahead of its time!

(it's a joke; classic line from Canadian Bacon.) I toured the steam whistle factory this summer, said that line... no laughs at all.

All I said was Canadian beer sucks...

I have a diesel manifold and somehow i lost the top portion of it. I would like to adapt this to my L28 over the summer with a custom top box. My problem currently is injector placement. I have no issue with putting them in the top box and having them squirt into the runners, but I am not sure how that would have an impact on starting the engine. There seems to be a dip that might allow the fuel to puddle in the bottom of the rail without a strong vacuum. If this is not successful placement, how would a spacer between the head and manifold work out? I was thinking graphite for the material. It has no problem with the heat and the fuel should not be an issue. The injector bosses could be drilled into this with great ease. This setup should also be able to be repeated at a fairly low cost and allow the use of a already available fuel rail. Any input to this would be awesome. Thanks, Shane