rudypoochris

I got some info on the mcleod hydraulic throw out bearing, it is $380. :/ is there any cheaper way of going to hydraulic, keeping the fork is fine by me.

Bastaad try changing the spark plugs on the z then leaning it out. Im not sure but they could have carbon deposites all over them from an overly rich mixture. Also maybe a brake upgrade like the 4x4 vented will be able to let you catch up to the srt4 in braking, the z is a helluv alot lighter after all

Great concept. Would be horrible if they made it identicle to that though. Like most concept cars, and like fashion. What looks good in a magazine won't look good on the street, i hope they take some of the nicer elements fromt he concept though, like the front half of the car

Word is you will want upgraded springs. Btw for what it is worth mike d has writtend own all the specs of the phantom grip and i think he might be able to make one. He has installed one and comment about it. I think his username is 73botiz

How much hp you shooting for? and nice work

Whats the hp on that thing?

Did the later cars come with a larger bore master?

isn't vvt toyota, but i get your point. That would be sweet a 5.6 litre but if the engine is heavy and has a high cg then that kinda ruins the fun. They would definatly need to change the cams to something alot more aggressive.

If i may ask, what brake upgrades did you do to the Z?

Thats how mine looked, bleed it again and then do a 100mph to 0 panic stop. It works

They are both 15/16 I believe. When one says there is a single resevoir vs dual does that simply mean the front and the back run out of the same tank? Or does it appear to be the same tank but there is still separation within the resivoir?

Sweet how does one order these? Also, what would the cost be

Heavy car imho, but if he is making 480hp vs 410 I don't think he would get smoked that badly, i think there must be something wrong or someone is lying. Or it is too peaky

I decided that either I am going to create vent in the hood with an angled lip or I am going to use a front diffuser that stops 6-8" before the firewall to effectively suck out the engine compartment air.

7.0 to 8.0 kg-m or 50.6 to 57.8 ft-lb for an R180 I would assume similar for an R200

Most recent idea from dinner above. This is the pair of front diffuser ideas i have both very similar. The main difference between Idea 1 and Idea 2 is that idea 2 samples more of the air in the front and pushes it over the bottom of the spoiler. This increased surface area should make more stick and effectively more pull down, or it will simply blow air out the side and lose lamination way before the straight on approach of the air in Idea 1. So if anyone can chime in on that. Also I asked my brother and he thinks that the low pressure air under the pan will suck out the high pressure engine compartment air if a 5-8" gap is made right before the firewall. Any larger a gap would create excessive turbulance and reduce the suction/flow. Those are just a couple ideas for now, next tuesday my brother is going to help me put this all into Lightwave and we are going to run tests on sections of the datsun with windspeed (from the car moving) as a factor, that way we can find the optimum angle for the diffusers at a given speed. Also we will be able to calculate downforce and see where the airstream is going (via particles). So that should step this up a notch expect an update.

I searched and found this very helpful: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99312&highlight=clutch But i have some questions of my own. Im kind of knew at clutch mechanics so sorry if i ask a stupid question: 1. Hydraulic throwout bearings replace the clutch fork and simply push on the clutch from inside the bell housing? (The clutch MC line would go directly into the bearing?) If so how do they rate the bearings performance (in bore and stroke or soemthing else)? 2. If the stock t5 clutch fork is kept approximately how much travel is needed at the end of the fork to disengage and engage the clutch fully? 3. Can anyone recommend what size master and slave is necessary. I heard a Neal or Wilwood slave with 7/8th bore and Wilwood MC at 1" bore works great, but what are their strokes? Any one have the part numbers? Below is a pic of this setup.

I like the stock look though so i do not want to go with a cowl induction hood. I think i will simply route it from the windshield wiper area.

Why not just put this cooler on the actual brake line right after the SS lines meat the hardlines? Or does that not work because there is not enough circulation?

Also note, i think this is correct, the 351 is about 80lbs heavier then the 302. So basically the 302 is more common and lighter. Vs the less common heavier but stronger 351W. For me the 302 is perfect, I think if i were you i would buy the 3k 370hp central coast block you will be impressed.

Concord is a rich area but i live in oakland also and i see alot of luxury cruisers and suvs. Suvs for sure but for a luxury car it depends what you consider a luxury car. But imho there are a boat load of luxury cars around the bay area any way

HAHAHAHHAHAHAH omg at the post above

Argh so i guess best is going to be venting into the wheel well. Thank guys, cowl induction is an idea though.

I thought the mist they were reffering to was spraying on the IC? Wouldn't water evaporating off the air to air intercooler greatly cool the intake temp?