mario_82_ZXT

That will work. I can't believe they've gone up over $50 in a few months... WTF... Mario

Is this a trick question?

Not to be all shady or whatev, but being on a college budget, do you need a valid key to play online? Mario

Holy crap! I've driven a friend's car with a 4.38 and thought that was crazy... Where'd you get that gear ratio from? Post some video!!! Mario

Those settings didn't work for my friend's 280zT. We had to mess with it for quite a while, we need to retard the timing a lot more as we aren't there on the fireball's yet (hahaha), but it builds 10-12 PSI depending on where we push the button (we're using the variable 2 step function). We had to mess with the spark cuts, some weren't aggressive enough and the engine would "overcome" the rev limit, others were way too strong and the rpms would drop too much and not build much boost. Anyways, it's scary how the car launches at 10psi, we need to mess with it some more to get it to launch at the full 15psi. With a terrible (and I mean terribly worn and dying) BW T5, the car ran a 13.3 on crappy suspension and street tires. This was in 2 runs, never running the car before then at the strip. Mario

I believe those only work in the "Scarab" mounting position, which is higher and more forward then the other more commonly used mounts (JTR, MSA, JCI, etc) Mario

Well, I don't know if they have gotten better, but Subie auto's are known for being worthless piles of poo. Seriously... Shopping around for used Subarus, the majority of autos have transmission issues. Their sticks are better, but those are also frequently broken by hard launches (which I guess won't be a problem due to being a Legacy GT to be used as a DD). I've seen one with most teeth missing off 2nd gear, and 3rd all chipped and mangled. This was on a modded bugeye turbo. Our 1998 Subaru Legacy Wagon's tranny is starting to slip, and from the research that I've done, it's a common issue... My old boss (from an import shop, not the racing kind) told me to unload it ASAP. Rebuilds are not worth the money! Just my $0.02 Mario

Trust me, it's well worth it. The LC-1 is about $150, and it is worth every penny! Don't blow your engine because of bad tuning, as I'm pretty sure it'll be more then $150 to fix. Have you checked the map sharing sticky? There might be a similar setup. Also, trying to tune without the proper instrumentation is a shot in the dark with a turbo car. Mario

Sorry I can't remember and I can't check it now. The car has a dead hole again, hoping it's just the fuel injector because that plug is super clean/white, not drench from not combusting, and it's not burning coolant... I want my injectors to work dammit... Mario

Motors are unique, and even though a setup works for someone doesn't mean it will work for you. I would buy a wideband, read up on the tuning procedure, and maybe even use MegaLogviewer for tuning. I was able to get a pretty solid table with MLV after about an hour. Mario

Have you tried leaning out your idle the other way that was recently discussed? Do this, open up your TB a little bit by adjusting your idle screw, lean out the ratio, and retard your timing a pretty large amount to bring it back down. This way I have a buttery smooth idle at 850 rpm with a 14.5:1 A/F ratio. This is also a good way to lean out your idle with big injectors. Mario

The flat top P90 combo will be what I'll do if I decide to stay L in the long run. You get the off boost response of an NA Z with the added power of the turbo. That said, $1500 seems a little high for me, as my car was $1800 with a parts car, wheels that sold for $800, boxes and boxes of spares and NOS parts, as well as a never ran L28E that I installed in my car before I went turbo. Mario

Hmm, you could also use the megasquirt box to drive the tach. Moby has done it on his LS1 MS setup. I think it's a pretty easy mod. http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual.htm#tachoout Mario

Have you tried adding 6.8k-10k ohm resistance to the tach signal wire? Mario

Great idea now get to it! I love old cars like that. Mario

How cheap? Tony D cheap? Mario

If you get no bites I'll let mine go cheap. It's in above average condition I think, but it's no where near perfect. Seems fixable though. Mario

I thought for the initial run, it was supposed to be straight weight non detergent oil. At least that's what I was told in mine, and was switched to detergent oil at 500 miles then whatever oil I was to be running for the motor at 1k miles. At least that's what i was recommended. Mario

That car looks familiar... Local club member Mario

Isn't there 2 adjustments? One at the hood to the hinge, and then the hinge to the body? At least I think that's how my Z is. Mario

Don't pop the tensioner or you will probably have to disassemble the whole front of the engine. Search here and zcar.com Read the manual on how to do it. I did one in couple of hours with only hand tools, without removing the manifolds, and no jacks or cranes. The only tool you might not have is a 10mm allen that you can use on a torque wrench (to torque it down). Don't forget, torque the head in 3 steps, working from the center out. Lots of people use a piece of wood to hold the tensioner in place. I have a piece of metal wrapped in electric tape. I've used it 4 times already. Others use a long screwdriver. I mark the sprocket, then the two links that are by that marking. Make sure your marks don't come off easily. Mario

http://www.arizonazcar.com/cableinstall.html I don't know if that cable is long enough but it's pretty informative. Mario

Not in logic. "AND" is * and "OR" is + tis pretty funny... Mario

Yea what's your mods? My friend cut a 2.4 60ft and ran a 13.3 with an L28ET with +200k miles, injectors, IC, and a slightly better turbo. Mario

Sounds great! And that donut into a burnout was nice!!! Mario