mario_82_ZXT

Yep! http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/78-280Z_wiring.gif (I don't want to show it as it is a huge picture, but click to see it) One side goes directly to the ECU. The other goes to the dropping resistors which are then fed power with the EFI relay. Check the connections at the relay as they are definitely getting some power, so the connections might be corroded. One side of the connector is always hot (+12v) with the key in the on position. The ECU then grounds the injector to fire it. Mario

Yes and yes. In fact you can use any regulator as long as it is for efi. The one that isn't recommended to use are Rising Rate ones as they make tuning very difficult. Mario

Yasin, If I remember correctly, the injectors are connected to a switched power source. I need to recheck the wiring diagram, but I believe the injectors are powered with the ignition switch in the on, and start position, by use of the EFI Relay. Mario

COOOOLLLL!!!!! Anyone want to try getting more information from them? Mario

What I've always wanted to try was to carefully redraw over the numbers/tick marks with UV activated paint (which I'm pretty sure it is clear until the UV hits it). That way all you would have to do is illuminate the gauge with the UV led. It would be like a "fake" reverse-glow. From what I've heard, UV light is not damaging to you when it is reflected, only when it is direct, which is maybe why it won't work through the plastic. Another thing to try is to maybe use something like a fiber optic cable to "route" the light to where it will shine on the needle (an interconnect from a fiber optic audio source, like a DVD player maybe?). Mario

MMmm ceramic. Do you think it's possible to redrill the stock manifold for a T4 flange? Mario

I remember reading about this somewhere: http://www.halloweenfear.com/vacuumformintro.html Should be helpful for at least some of the parts. Mario

Magic!!! Mario

My friend built me the catch can that Supra510 describes. I plumbed it up and everything seems like it working great. I need to double check when it's nice out as I have no traction in 1-3rd because of the rains. 510six, on the link you posted, the guy rights that it is too much vacuum to use the turbine inlet. What is everyone's take on this? I'm pretty sure my problem has been alleviated, after 30 mins of driving around there wasn't a hint of that annoying burning oil smell that has been plaguing my car. When I removed my PCV, I blew into it the "wrong" way, and it did in fact leak. It seems like I was pressurizing my lower end. Mario

Looks like they only make them in +42mm. Now you'll have to get spacers. Mario

I really can't remember how that works, as I haven't had a look in my ZX's hood in a couple of years. Doesn't it work with another ball linkage on the part that is connected to the pedal? If so, there was a thread on a lokar cable the hooks up right there, so you shouldn't loose the cruise control. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129607&highlight Mario

I don't understand this elitism... Maybe it's because nothing in my Z or it's drivetrain is considered rare, but I feel it would be awesome if an intake was developed out of this that basically would "redefine" the L engine aftermarket intakes here in the US. I can't stand this mentality, it basically keeps the little man down, which I don't believe is what having a hybridz is about. For example, look at the wind tunnel testing. The few that participated it could have easily done this for just themselves. They didn't though, they released all their gatherings and in reality it brought into light a lot of the issues with the Zs aero, and they found ways to deal with it that most people would have never thought of. There are those here with a lot of money, and others (like myself) trying to play on a minimalistic budget. I've seen this attitude before at car meets and drags when people get upset that my car which has less then $2500 in parts (including initial purchase) is beating their new cars... Just my $0.02, Mario

My friend is building me a catch can (hopefully will be done with it tomorrow). I'm going to plumb it with the block and valve cover going to it and the exit on the catch can going to the compressor inlet where it is always under vacuum. Right now with both vented to air the car has stopped smoking on decel, so it was definitely related. I think my PVC is bad and was pressurizing the block or something, since it was worse under boost. Mario

If you want to use the original linkage then yes, I believe you need it to be 1". Why not convert to a throttle cable and not even use a spacer? Mario

Door latching mechanisms are different. Rear false floors are different. Gas tanks are different. Hmm... lots of stuff. I think the door latching mechanism can easily distinguish between an early and late 280z... Mario

Oh my indeed... Where can I find me someone like that??? =P Mario

Is the valve cover still open? My PCV in my manifold is still hooked up and it was smoking... I disconnected it today (both venting to atmosphere) and it seems like the smoke went away. I think the PCV might be defective and pressurizing my crankcase... Mario

Hahahaha wow! I'd get those Venom injectors flow tested though before something bad happens... Mario

You'd need 2. The spacer is 1 inch thick I think... Go to a local machine shop and see if they have any scrap acrylic. That's what I made mine out of for free. Mario

Anyone with a bidirectional tool can do this apparently. If you're member of a local forum, ask for someone with EFILive or HPTuner as those are bidirectional and can do this. Here's an interesting link: http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/performance/164702-gm-computer-relearn-procedure-including-crankshaft-relearn.html http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=463173&highlight=CKP Good luck! Mario

Cool car! Did you find the exhaust valve chunk? Mario

I think these are the AZ Zcar molds. If they are, my old boss went to go look at them way back when they were selling them. He said a lot were damaged from being outside and in the rain. He said that what AZ Zcar was asking was way too much, and that he doubted most could be used... Just an FYI... Mario

Do you have a diagram you can post? It sounds like the PCM controls the relay, and then the relays turn on the fans. You need to check if the PCM sends 12v out or grounds those wires, as that will determine how to wire up the relays. Mario

It's supposed to be closed with no voltage. It has a little heater in it that heats up and opens a little flap to raise the idle, that one is probably bad. I'd get one thats a valve instead of a flap. Some older carbd cars used a little solenoid with a wedge that would prevent the throttle to fully closed when energized. I've wanted to try one of those too. Mario

Woops brain fart. I read it wrong...