mario_82_ZXT

It's easiest to reflash your ECU with the code you want, and it comes with the INI file to boot. That way you KNOW what's actually in the processor. Mario

The sandwich plate on the Automatic ZXTs has something in it that is internal in the non-turbo or manual turbo car's block. You need to use it, as you cannot simply replace the stud with the correct one. I believe it has a bypass valve that is otherwise cast in the other blocks. Search on it, it's been discussed. I got the SAE adapters for mine and just have it looped, I'm waiting to mount the oil cooler till I know what my front end looks like. Mario

http://tucson.craigslist.org/car/521223539.html VK56 in a 300ZX!!! It's in Lake Havasu, AZ Crazy!!! Mario

The active code in Megatune doesn't match that of your MS box.

If I recall correctly, the US didn't get any JZ bellhousings for the R154 (only the W58 and Getrag). More then likely that transmission is from a 7M-GTE. Mario

Cool! Do you have a pic with the front bumper on? (Maybe not your car but someone elses, don't mean to rush ) Mario

Wouldn't that heat up your oil way too much? Also are you being serious? Aren't those parts for your JZ swap? =P Mario

El-cheapo tools but it's better then nothing as mine were stolen a few months back!!! Buying a chassis harness and a Megasquirt harness and rewiring the damn thing soon... Mario

Love the stance and the wheels! Sexy car! Mario

HAHAHA that episode was great! This was my favorite part: (A girl Stig with a helmet, gloves, and driving shoes was shown wading in the pool behind the Stig a few times) Mario

I think some of the 240z's had them as well. If you have a good drill bit and a drill press you can drill through yours and use threaded rod and some jam nuts to make your own. Mario

Too wide for the Z I think... Mario

78 driveshafts are technically not rebuildable. I had mine rebuilt, the u-joints have to be pressed out and removable ones installed. If you're just swapping them for the yolk it might be better for a shop to do it since they can also balance it while they are there. Mario

When mine won't turn on I just mess with the fusable links and try again. Usually does the trick, I need to clean and solder them to the spade connectors... Mario

I've seen "balance tube" arrangements for both map sensor and brake master vacuum sources. I believe Tony D (or another guru) talked about properly sizing one, I think in the thread where someone was designing their own intake to be cast here on hybridz. Mario

I'll try that out, they didn't look too bad after a teardown when I did the headgasket. It runs beautifully when it's in the above conditions. Pulls to redline smooth as butter. I think I need an I/C, I'm sick of these +220 F intake temps... Mario

I think that might be it. I did take off the heat shields out of frustration after 2 exhaust gaskets... I'm going to check tomorrow but it seems if I cycle the pump some before I try starting the car it seems to be better. Mario

"Hot" as in driving around in traffic and water temp is halfway on the gauge (though about 205 in MT, 190 deg thermostat). If I turn it off then go do something for a few minutes (like run in the store) and come back out of my it will "catch" when you crank it and instantly die. The only way I can get it to start right up is if I reset the MS box so that it injects the priming pulse then pump the gas as soon as it catches so that it keeps hitting accel enrichments and eventually revs up. All the while I'm getting intake backfires/popping. The car will then idle but run rough for about a minute and then it will be back to it's good ol self. I've never had this problem before in the close to 4 years that I've had the car Megasquirted but this is my first time with the v3 MS-I box, though it has the same code I had in there in my v2.2 hardware and I never had that problem then. I'm stumped on this one... Help! If the car sits for a while (like an hr) it starts right up. If it's cold outside and the temp gauge never got to half way it will start right up. If it's 30 degs outside it willl start right up... Mario

I'm using the CHTS for the temp sensor and as Tony D has pointed out I see "operating temperature" much sooner then the water temp gauge in the cabin. I had this problem earlier where no matter what I did I would get a ping in 3rd gear and above at 4-4.5k. Eventually I started from scratch with the maps and adding more fuel pushed the ping farther and farther up. Eventually I was able to get rid of it by backing of 1 degree in the cells at 7psi (running stock boost) and the ones before that. The problem is I have absolutely no pinging with these settings if the water temp is about halfway from the first white line to the F in the middle of the gauge (though it shows ~200deg in Megatune). This is about a 1/3 into the gauge sweep. If there's lots of traffic or stop and go and the gauge reaches the half way point, nothing I do will stop the ping (even though the MS temp gauge reads about the same as before). Any ideas? Mario

I had one that did that actually. Really badly... Lost 5th on the free way after an 130mph pull. Lost reverse at the same time (didn't know it). Then 2nd... Then 4th... I think your tranny's days are numbered. Mine was an early 5 speed too. Mario

OTM's in undergrad I think... Anyways... this thread is so vague... Mario

I think you have to take the clear off at least. Duplicolor makes wheel spray paint and even a clear. I've seen some right up's before and they look nice. Maybe ask Veritech-Z as he's painted wheels before. Mario

Hahaha I wonder if ORGAZM would fly in the states? Nice Z! Mario

You can make one. It's an inch thick and has 4 holes. I made mine. Or you can convert to a throttle cable and not have to deal with it. Mario

Your cold starts might be set too high, which is why you flood the engine, and then start it by flooring it (which sets it into flood clear mode, no fuel injected). If your TPS is too sensitive you could be triggering accel/decel enrichments making the cruise and slight accel choppy. Mario