mario_82_ZXT

I like the Rebel Wiring kit. Currently installing a 12 circuit on a 78.

You must have a short somewhere. Did you build the box? How are your injectors wired up?

get them from summit. It's cheap.

Keep the gun closer, tip the end so you're pushing the puddle in front of you, and probably turn up the heat. You need the welds to flatten out. Also what kind of welder and wire are you running? How thick is the plate?

That's how I did mine too. It's kinda a pain as the whole dash has to come out. The early Zs are the ones you can just bolt the pedal on.

Are you slapping on a metal gasket on a car that keeps popping head gaskets? Did you fix the underlying issue? If not you're going to end up with broken or melted pistons.

Dexter I agree with you on the no A/C bit... Getting stuck right when you enter Phoenix mid day in July in a gutted car with heat radiating from every direction for 3hrs made me never want to drive through Phoenix in the day time again. If you find a good source for those A/C units or some plans/one torn apart you should let me know!

Cam availability.

15x14 rear and 15x10 front, BBS 3 piece wheels, perfectly straight, no dings. Barrels need polishing as the AL has oxidized and some of the gold powdercoat might be chipping, the car was sitting for an eternety it seems. All in all they are just plain dirty! I'd love to keep them but no one makes good street tires in that size anymore. It's got 295/50R15s in the back and they are stretched, the size to run is 345/35R15s (like off a Countach) but they're $600 a tire. Here's the triples. I put on a spare set to drive it home and it's got 3 bolt SUs on it now. Bonus donut's in the white Z video:

Just got it going! Removed the triples it came with and put SUs and it still wouldn't run right, ended up being a bad coil. Rebuilding the webers before they go back on. Getting some food with my friend's 3l NA Megasquirted car

You more then likely fried the HEI module if the settings for it were wrong. Some places can still check HEI modules if you bring it to them.

Check the TPS and CHTS as well. You can check an O2 sensor with a multimeter. On idle once warmed up, it should swing between >.5v and <.5v

xenons30.com has the FSM I believe. You can try reading through the EFI bible, or get the pin-out for the ECU from the FSM and verify that the ECU is getting power and is correctly grounded.

Nope. 82-83 Turbo ECU's were different then the 81s in that the resistors were inside the ECU.

Pulse it. Just lay a little tack, then again, and again, and again. If you can find a chunk of copper to put behind it, it will help a lot.

It's wrong. It should be +12v KEYED -> Resistor(s) -> Injector(s) -> Megasquirt. The MS box grounds the injectors, not provides power.

Does this signify your return to Hybridz? =P Welcome back dude!

Didn't one of their gallardo's go end over end at the texas mile?

Awesome that helps a lot. Any chance you can fix the pictures in your post?

As noted above, the welds themselves can be a problem. Believe it or not for things that need to be tested (aerospace and defense parts), my boss finds it easier to weld stainless. Mild steel is more difficult to weld "right" then stainless because it is dirtier. Porosity in the weld is a big issue especially when TIG welding mild steel. Also, I know this is anecdotal, but I was always told to use SCH40 weld els for mild steel manifolds, SCH10 for stainless. That said coat it and run it until it breaks.

If you have it built for coil (-) triggering, you have to short out the Zener diode to get the stim to pass RPM signal. I just soldered part of a component lead across the legs. Hooked up the stim, loaded the firmware, cut the jumper through the diode, plugged it into the car and off it went.

Shifter pin came out?

I can't find the 2.17in (55mm) sleeves anywhere. It seems that is the common Koni sleeve size. Can I just buy sleeves for Koni's then? Colemanracing doesn't list anything for 55mm or 2.17in sleeves.

You don't need a TPS for megasquirt. It's nice for like flood clear but that's about it. If you really want to use it it's the pigtail connector that you use.

Pretty much every FACTORY car with a rev-limiter uses fuel only, maybe fuel and spark. Spark cut means death to cats and chambered mufflers, which is why OEMs don't use it.