mario_82_ZXT

My friend just ordered from Ross for custom pistons. One of the guys there has a 3.2l stroker so they (seem) to know their stuff. They walked my friend through it all and actually faxed US the order form filled out.

Sure these things are fast but they're also annoying! I just toasted clutch #4 on my SR20DET B13 SE-R. I'm going with a solid hub 6 puck this time... BTW I was dead even STOCK (other then a flow stack intake) with a GSR that had intake, exhaust, and was gutted.

You all must live in special places because I've never seen a used 911 P-car here for under $25k with a turbo. On rare occasion a non-turbo one, but nothing ever "nice." The one that I wish I could have sold some projects for was a 1970 911 with a 3.2 carb'd motor with a whale tail in guards red. For $8k...

Definitely recheck your wiring at the MAF before plugging everything back in just to rule out that it's not in your harness.

1 fast Z has used them I'd like to add.

Don't you have to o-ring the block? And isn't there issues with them seeping coolant?

I leave the dizzy in the center of its adjustment and then change the trigger angle in the megasquirt so that both the stock timing marks and the megasquirt's timing lines up. It's in the install sticky IIRC.

Man way to put me on blast! My friend has a ZX parts car but it seems that side was hit so the rod is most likely damaged.

I forgot to put have your battery LOAD tested.

If cost is really that big of an issue take it to a fab shop. I bet you could find someone to do it for under $20.

Band saw would be a really nice cut with minimal fuss. Definitely not a dremel.

Sounds like a bad electrical connection to me. Check your wires, they might be corroded up the terminal. Have your battery tested. Make sure the ground wire that goes to the starter isn't on a painted surface. Check the stud where the positive goes that it is tight and free of corrosion. I'm pretty sure you shouldn't have to shim starters on Ls.

Maybe one with a latch circuit so if it ever drops below a set PSI a light turns on (and stays on even if it goes over it), runs a timer for an x amount of seconds, then shuts off the ignition.

You can't run turbo injectors on a non-turbo without a lot of messing with the stock electronics, and even then it won't run right. Also, I think the injectors are pretty much the same for all non-turbos from 75-83, and possibly even early 300zxs.

Oh yea, with the carnage I just said there seems to be no damage to the stock piston tops. Is it safe to assume this wasn't detonation damage?

Interesting... We might try this out. It's kind of a frankenbuild. 3l turbo build on a cheap chinacharger (61mm compressor with new US made bearings). We had the injectors maxed out at 20psi of boost with 47 lbs base fuel pressure, car was scooting pretty good. Held up for a few months, we just spun #6 rod bearings, broke the rings on that piston, and broke the skirt on #3. Would this cam be a benefit to us, or should we go custom now?

Daphur take it to a local small weld shop. We fix things like that all day. And it should be around $50

BRAAP I can't seem to find any of those threads, just "mentionings" that say the NA cam is better (500rpm more usable power). I thought there were different stock cams? Someone said it's good for a mild turbo build. Would it be a step up from the stock cam on a 20psi T4 turbo build? Or a step back? And out of which years are they talking about?

Did yours break? Were you using urethane bushings? I might have one for you.

What condition are your u-joints?

This sounds almost exactly like the problem my dad had with his MSnS'd l28et using the turbo dizzy. I replaced the CAS (Napa sells it for a reasonable price) and while replacing it I noticed the CAS harness had some parts of the insulation broken with wires exposed. I de-pinned the plastic connector on the dizzy side and soldered new wire from that to the round connector (I couldn't figure out how to de-pin that one). No problems since then (except for my dad running out of gas once).

I was wondering how you were going to mount it. I think that's really clean and functional. On the paint, maybe the heat gun was leaving cold spots?

Possibly high carbon buildup causing an increase in compression?

Build a boost leak tester and listen for leaks.

Thats what the power one in my 280z looks like.