mario_82_ZXT

Like others have said, if it's just the screen can't you plug in an external one? Otherwise if this is so important to you why not sell it without the HD? It's not like you're going to get much for a broken laptop anyways...

Spotweld remover? Sharp chisel?

77s could be an oddball. Early 77s had the pump switch in the AFM like stated above, but later ones will have it on the oil pressure switch. If you oil pressure switch has a 2 prong connector it will be there. If it's a bullet connecter it's in the AFM. You can also double check with the AFM. If the AFM has a 7 pin connecter it has the angel switch. Otherwise it's a 5 pin (if I remember correctly). Tripples will be fun for sure, but the stock EFI is really simple. More so then tripples (IMHO).

Dude just finish paying for your Z and come out with us on Saturday. We're hoping for 30-40 cars, most of them modified (so probably lowered in some way).

Does it have a crack near the wastegate puck? If so it probably wouldn't effect performance much. Also I heard G Pop Shop carries the turbine housings new.

No use going to a 4 year school for either welding or CNC operating... I'm kinda like you. I did Computer and Electrical Engineering but thought it was a drag. I dropped out and went to the CC to get my welding and fabrication degree. I do plan on finishing my bachelors, but probably at another college.

If you were to buy a certified foam filled bladder, could you make an enclosure yourself?

Screw the sensor in. Measure the resistance at the sensor with your multimeter. Then plug the harness in and measure resistance between pin 23 and ground. The stock sensor has one pin the goes to ground and the other to the ecu. If the value of the second test is way different then the first (as in higher) then you have a corroded/bad connection somewhere. If it has no resistance you have a short somewhere.

Wow that's a nice turbo! It's a hybrid ball-bearing Garret turbo with a T4 compressor side, T3 turbine. Should definitely be a step up from stock. PS damn I wish my GF would drop that kind of coin (seriously $$$) on me if she knew I wanted something! PSS I want a Ferrari!

Boobalicios and BBF make me think of fat chicks. Or were they phat chicks Tony?

Strut diameter is different. You can get them pretty even by using 240z strut tops/insulators on 280z suspension.

Why not get the best of both worlds by ducting cold air to a filter box close to the turbo?

I was dailying one with coilovers, wheels and Corbeau Forzas for a while. I returned it to stock and sold it to my GF so I could get back into Zs... They're fun as hell, one day I'll do a turbo one too!

The rubber ring has failed on your crank pulley. Get a replacement one ASAP. Bad things happen when they let go.

I know we've strayed from the original thinking of an eccentric throttle cam, but does anyone have any recommendations on how to go about designing one? My dad complains about the throttle in our cable converted 60mm setup.

You might need some vertical bars for strength on your lexan window, or some pressure relief holes. I've seen some balloon and want to rip off at speed before...

Details details... What board, what firmware, what setup? The IG LED only lights when pin 36 is used for spark output (pin 36 is usually driven by a VB921 or BIP373 if built and configured that way).

They look like Ford meshies. Really heavy wheels if I recall correctly...

Does it have a large snap ring on the cartridge side?

Make sure you use anti-seize to not gall the threads.

Does it have an aftermarket throttle body?

Look up how a cap works for noise suppression. You put it across the load in a high impedance circuit to suppress high frequency noise. If you connect the 2 leads that it has together, you are basically shunting the circuit straight to ground (aka a short). Like I said before, the reason something hasn't caught fire yet is because your ballast resistor is limiting the current. If your condensor is broken and you don't want to get another, tape off the end that goes to the harness and remove the grounded end. I would also check your ballast resistor as you might have damaged it from putting so much current through it.

Dude... You've bypassed the condensor by connecting it straight to ground? You've just created a short. The only reason something hasn't caught fire yet is because your ballast resistor is doing the current limiting. I think one of your fusible links might not be a real one because I'm pretty sure those wires pass through one and it should have blown by now. Just disconnect the wire that goes through the condensor and tape off the end.

I would use the ground strap and ground the case of your TIG at least. Miller recommends your table and nearby metal structures as well. If you're using HF, especially continuously with aluminum, theres a chance you are giving off a lot of radio interference. I've heard stories of people shutting off they're neighborhoods internet access when TIG welding... Miller has a great guide on their website about grounding their units. For a MIG you'd probably be fine with the 3 wire. Or ground with a stake near your work like Tony says.

If you think the condensor is bad shouldn't you be able to run without it? It's a noise suppression device, I think it's a cap right? Are you running a ballast resistor? Is your coil for a ballast ignition? If you have spark but no fuel check to see if your injectors have 12v and that the ECU has power when the key is on and cranking. Also check to see if the ECU is properly grounded. There's a wire that runs along the top of the firewall that has 3 blue and 1 black wire, that is the injector and ECU ground.