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Showing results for tags '1978'.
Found 13 results
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I am not a mechanic at all, i am just a 19 yo who started liking cars and likes building things, so bear with me if some terminology or methodology is wrong Hello, I'm in a bit of a crisis with my car at the moment, and before I get told to do this, yes I have spent days searching the internet, and yes I have looked through the FSM for this model year of the 280z, and spent many days looking through the wiring diagrams trying to solve this problem. A little backstory for this project of mine: My grandpa has had this car for about 30ish years now sitting on his property. I recently took an interest in the car and was starting to get into cars in general. So he decided to let me try to restore the car with him. I should mention the car had been stripped of all components for a full restoration that 30 years ago. so I started on the car approximately 2-3 months ago now, and am almost ready to start, and paint the car, and get it road ready. Onto my electrical problems: So after I got every electrical connection together through the entire car, we plugged in a new battery to start testing the electrical components. Right off the start there were issues but not too many, the engine would crank fine but we didn't have gas so we don't know if it would have started or not. but as i have been trying to solve the problems with the electrical, i accidently shorted a ground pin to the main headlight pin in a connection while light testing and since then, the headlights don't work, and the flashers don't work. The fuses are fine none blown, and the fusible links are fine, they all get continuity & voltage through them. I have replaced the flasher relay and it didn't change anything, I have cleaned all the connections in the combination switch circuits. Then when I was testing the ignition switch, I accidently cranked the engine, and my negative to chassis ground cable instantly melted. Ever since then the positive terminal of my battery, has continuity to the chassis of the car, the engine and every single ground contact/cable throughout the car. Another thing, I'm not sure if this is normal or not, but in my fuse box, the left side of my fuel gage fuse (blue wire) has continuity with the positive terminal of my battery. Things i have tried to trace the problem so far: I have taken off all the important relays for operation and opened them, checked for any damage, and cleaned them. I have been checking all my fuses and fusible links constantly to make sure its not them. I did notice today, that when I unplug the fusible link in the picture, my positive terminal loses ground to the entire car, which has led me to believe its something to do with that cable. Any help would be apprieciated
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Hello everyone. I'm going to jump right in. I just installed a new motor. Fully stripped of emissions except charcoal canister. Cold start delete. Bcddd deleted and plugged. EGR delete. All new vacuum lines. New plugs E3's /wires MSD 7mm. New fuel pump (95psi) regulated to 35psi on rail, and filters before and after. Clean grounds. New battery, starter, alternator. Clean connections on injectors. All injectors were bench tested and contacts cleaned w/ new gaskets. Vacuum tested @ 17. New Fidanza flywheel installed with exedy clutch. The issue: Car starts right up strong. Will rev to 3k decent. If I hammer throttle it backfires out the exhaust. I have played with the AFM because both units I have already been played with. I have calibrated one using the guide on Atlanticz.ca and everything went well. On reinstall, the car would not start. I had to tighten the clock spring on afm for it to run again. Now it is soo tight I am afraid to go any further. If I hold extra tension on the AFM it runs beautiful and smooth to 6.5k easy. What else can/should I do to correct this issue? Open to all suggestions.
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Hi everyone, I'm looking for the driver's side window glass for a 1978 280z. Anyone have something for sale? Thanks! Luke Austin, TX
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Title pretty much says it all. I like the OEM vents but will consider aftermarket ones. Located in Everett, WA. Just PM me here. Thanks!
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I am looking for a good set of coilovers that will drop the car about 1 inch. They do not need to be top of the line, I will only be doing street driving but looking for a decent upgrade from my stock ones of 1978. Also a front sway bar. Thanks,
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Hope this isn't a dumb question, but I've been looking around and can't identify this switch or what it does? Trying to look through wiring diagrams and no leads either, it looks like it was made to mount on the the metal housing for the stereo behind the center console. Messing around with it didn't lead to any obvious results.
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So, as many of you can already assume, I'm Greg and I've owned a 1978 280z for a little over a month. Although my time with the car has been short, many plans are in place to replace and restore many parts. Currently, the plan is to do the notorious LS1 engine swap, lowered on Stance Coilovers, STR 514 wheels (17x9 square with a 3.5 inch machined lip), ZG Wide Flares, etc. but first, body work is the first priority on my list. From the day I first bought the car, little changes have been made to the car... -
It came off a 78 280z 5-speed. I believe its a Hitachi direct drive type but there aren't any markings and the label has faded. The solenoid is trashed and new ones cost more than a complete reman starter. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Starter-Remfd-Premium/_/R-REL444639_0226137554 I'm also inclined to purchase a gear reduction type, but I'd like to know if this is a good idea. All I've read is that the torque is higher and battery load less on the gear redux. Any other pros and cons for gear reduction vs direct drive? I appreciate you time!
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Side by side comparison of the Z tank (bottom) and the mustang tank (top)
BubbaDog127 posted a gallery image in Members Albums
From the album: Cobra 5.0 280z
1977 Z tank 1995 mustang cobra tank -
I'm looking for one driver side window for a 77 or 78 280z. PM me for a number to text. Located in West Texas.
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Hey all I have a 1978 280z I've been trying to diagnose a problem I've been having for the last month and a half or so. Lately the problem has escalated and is affecting drivability. Fuel cuts out a lot , like it's "falling on it's face" I know it's not an electrical problem, vacuum is good, haven't done a fuel pressure test, I replaced my inline and under the hood fuel filters no change, been running fuel system cleaner for the last 3 weeks, I was starting to get the idea that maybe the catalytic converter could be clogged, but I'm not sure. I definitely think that is the problem or it's a fuel delivery issue, and would like some help diagnosing the problem. car is still somewhat drivable under slow acceleration, it is my daily driver. it also idles fine and responds to throttle normally when in neutral. also passed smog about five months ago, all of the cylinders are running slightly lean except cylinder 5 which is burning oil (per spark plug inspection). I work m-f 9-5pm so it's difficult for me to take my car in to a mechanic, any ideas would be appreciated and yes I have been using the search function and trying many things before I finally decided to make this post. I may take a day off next week to take the car into datsun alley in signal hill by my house, but until then I'll be trying to get it up an running myself. Another things is that it idles slightly higher (~200 rpms) after being driven for around 20 minutes.
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So I've been forum lurking for a while here now, and reading up on turbo L28 builds, and I was wondering if you guys could help me out with some questions I have as I have never really done much work on my own cars before and I'd like to start. I'm basically gonna copy and paste what Gollum wrote in response to another post to let you guys know where I'm starting at. I'd just like to get some recommendations and definite answers on what I need/should purchase and in what order. I don't think my goals are to outrageous I'd just like my care to be moderately fast. Is this a street car? Daily driver Will it see track use? It's possible What kind of budget are we talking about? I'm hoping to spend less than $3000 What kind of level of performance are we talking about? I'm trying to get around 230hp to the wheels. Fast as a new mustang? Fast as a Corvette? Fast as an enzo? Looking to hit 0-60 around 6 seconds What's your experience level? Basic Have you done engine swaps before? No Can you weld? No Rebuilt a motor before? Yes What access to tools do you have? A pretty good variety Have a cherry picker? Yes Welder? No Grinder? No Decent Bench? Yes Assortment of jacks and stands? Yes Basic list of parts I'd suggest: Was wondering if you could give me some pricing on what I should pay for these parts used or new Gollum suggested. Turbo manifold Turbo (T3/T4 hybrid works well for a street setup) 300cc+ injectors, 400+ preferred Any 'ol intercooler that fits Turbo intake will make integration with HVAC easier 36-1 Trigger wheel + Sensor MS 2, or 3 Coils (LSx work great, or EDIS-6 is fine too) MS Wire Harness Laptop with serial port Manual Boost Controller I'm getting my car dyno'd soon to see where I'm starting at. Do I need to do a head swap on my L28 to turbo it or can I just slap a manifold on with a turbo? Are dished pistons required? Do I need a turbo downpipe and exhaust? Do I need a stronger rear end or anything else? I know my questions will probably sound overly simple to you, I have a tendency to over think things. I'd appreciate any help you guys can give me. I think I have some pretty reasonable goals with a pretty decent budget. I'd prefer to avoid a head swap if I can as I'm low on time due to my work schedule. Thanks
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Hello I'm pretty new to the forums, having a couple problems with my Z I just purchased a couple weeks back. the first problem seems to be transmission or clutch related- 5 speed it makes a weird noise like two metal plates scratching together intermittently in 1st through 3rd gear at low speeds it also makes a weird metallic noise sometimes when switching gears from the shifter. I'm thinking that it is possible it may be low transmission oil/fluid or something similar anybody have any ideas what this could be? the second problem just started within the last two days and maybe fuel related or related to the first problem where the gear may be slipping when accelerating the throttle response is acting strangely don't know how to explain it exactly except that it's basically not there unless you get on it. doesn't look like I'm leaking fuel anywhere, but I did start getting a strong fuel/exhaust smell today my eyes even starting watering on the way home from work today. the previous owner told me the car had an exhaust leak in between the downpipe and the catalytic converter could this be the problem? any help would be appreciated greatly thanks
