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Showing results for tags 'cam'.
Found 11 results
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Help! I'm in the final stages of rebuilding a 72' 240Z. The Cam timing sprocket bolt has now come loose for the second time. The first time I pulled the head and had two valves replaced. (Also got a good bit of hazing about proper torque...) Replaced everything and torqued the cam bolt to 105 ft/lbs. Two short test drives, everything just fine. First longer drive, she stopped running about two miles out and when towed home, the cam bolt has loosened again. (Cam stopped spinning, pinged the top of several pistons, now need to remove the head and get valves inspected/replaced... again) Any thoughts on why this keeps happening? I don't want to continue fixing the same thing if something else is the root cause. (Definition of insanity...) 72' 240Z Original engine and E88 head Original intake and SU carbs (rebuilt by Z-Therapy) Aftermarket electric fuel pump (with flow gage to check and adjust the flow) Aftermarket exhaust 3/2 exhaust header 280X Non-Turbo Distributor Original AT (Rebuilt locally) Thanks, Chris
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240z seat. Comes with all hardware and tracks $50 '78 280z Auto Transmission with replaced seals $50 Price drop on the N47 head!!! HEAD IS SOLD. Located in Tehachapi CA. Local pick up in the area accepted, otherwise all prices do not include shipping. I had this head rebuilt years ago and only ran it at idle a few times before pulling the motor again. It's ready to put on your motor. Head specs: 1978 N47 Resurfaced head Resurfaced rockers 3-angle valve job 300ZX springs Schneider Stage 1 Cam (260/260 duration, 0.460" lift) Asking $750 $650 $575 $500 240z front and rear bumpers. Front bumper has damage. Rear bumper is in good condition. Front bumper: $25 Rear bumper: $50 '78 N47 Stock NA Header in fresh VHT Ceramic Coating $100
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Picked up a recently rebuilt L24 and E31 head. Block bored slightly. Head rebuilt to stock specs. Plan to run triple DCOE 40s w/ Mallory Unilite ignition. Would like to upgrade cam without doing additional work to the head. What cams would work with stock springs/lift?
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Edit - First, thank you for any replies and to anyone who read my original post. I am learning this with the FSM and two repair manuals. I used a second set of eyes to go out and triple-check that I hadn't made a bunch of mistakes. The first cylinder gets a compression reading on the gauge at about the 45 mark (if it existed). When bringing the pulley mark to zero with the help from my second eyes, I get a completely different and much less dramatic looking scenario. The timing mark on the chain is a V (sitting at 2) versus a shiny which I couldn't find before. This looks less problematic than the crazy scenario I originally posted about but is still puzzling to me as the PO's mechanic didn't work on the timing but said there was a definite issue. Do these markings look off to you?
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Hi Folks, I finished a stout little engine build for a customer of mine here in South Florida. It's a 10:1, 40 over L28 with a decent cam. I assume I'll have to throw some more fuel at this engine but it's going into a stock 1976 280Z with the original fuel injection that was working fine. I have done many engines like this but never into a stock FI system. What is the preferred method of adding fuel? The less complicated the better! Thanks, Greg Ira RevTec
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I am looking for a complete set of of rocker arms for my N42 head that I can send in to be resurfaced. Mine are too pitted to be cleaned up.
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Sent My N47 Head to The Machine Shop.....
FrappNasty posted a topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
I sent my N47 of to a local machine shop for a cam regrind (out sourced), valve seals and cut/seats, new lash, rockers, lash pads etc. Told the guy not to removed the cam retainer caps...well I guess the caps were removed. Every manual, forum I have read states DO NOT REMOVE CAPS. They are still working on the head at this point and it has yet to be installed. From what I understand there can be alignment issues with the bearings, thus big time failure. This work is being done on my donor head, and I have my perfectly working stock head still on the car. Any input would be greatly appreciated. 1978 280Z all stock. -
I am starting to plan my engine build and would like some input on my initial parts selection/configuration I am thinking. I have two N42/N42 engines to pick from. My thoughts are as follows: Block Cleaned, bored, honed, new freeze plugs, ARP main bolts, ITM flat top pistons .30" ovesize (already purchased) Head Surface, valves unshrouded, mild porting. (*considering trying to weld up the chambers with a MIG spool gun) Cam (Either a Schneider 284-92F or a 290F) ARP Head bolts Felpro Head Gasket Fuel MSA triple Webers 45mm Ignition Considering a MSD Street Fire ignition box or 6AL Considering also some kind of modified distributor or Mallory Unilite distributor to control advance,
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Here pictured is the spec card from the cam in the motor that will be going into my car. I have ridden around in the donor car, and it seems to run fine. However, the .480/.480 lift and .274/.274 cam profile seems to match that of a Schneider stage 2 NA cam as sold through MSA. I believe that the overlap on this cam is 54* and I know that less overlap on a turbo is better, I am just ignorant as to how much is acceptable, and the opinions out there seem to conflict. The MSA/Schneider Turbo Stage 1 has only 27*, but jeffp in another post says that he runs 54* and it works fine. I don't have a very free exhaust flow, just your standard turbo exhaust manifold to a T04E 60 to a 3in to a Monza tip. This car is for the street, but hope to run 15psi. Priority 1 is not blowing my motor, priority 2 is power. I know there is a lot of info and discussions on cams out there. What I am looking for are answers specific to my application. In short, should I run this head as is? Would I just be better off selling this N42 and getting a rebuilt stock P90 with a stock cam? If I go that far should I go ahead and get a stage 1 or 2 turbo cam with it? Thanks!
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Hi guys. I just picked up a rebuilt 1997 mark vi vortec 454 .030. The engine was done to stock specs. The guy I got it from started a project and abandoned it so I got the complete long block for a great price. Everything was rebuilt/replaced on the engine. These run about 9:1 stock compression and I'm assuming that it's going to be right around there give or take .3. I have a question. I'm going to be upgrading the cam before I get further into the project. What is the largest cam that the vortec heads can handle without machining the valve guides for seal to retainer clearance? I don't feel like taking the heads off and totally disassembling them. I need a quick cam change. I will upgrade the valve springs if necessary. I'd also prefer to stay with the nonadjustable valvetrain vs. spending more money. It's already going to cost an additional $1200 or so in parts for me to get this to work. Engine will be a carb engine with an edelbrock performer RPM intake. Hei distributor. Vehicle it's going in is my truck. 1992 Chevy k3500 mason dump 4x4, nv4500 5 speed with 4.56's front and rear. Truck is heavy but I need this engine to have some power. I don't tow, but do get loads stone (6000lbs on average) and the 350 that was in it required downshifts on hills even unloaded. I'd like this to pull above 5k and not die out like the TBI 350 did at 3800. Truck weighs 7540 with me in it. Any advice? Thanks.
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Apparently my engine has a bit hotter of a cam, and there's a little bit of valve ticking, but I just adjusted the valves and the sound prevails even when at factory recommendation. Would a hotter cam alter the required amount of valve clearance? If so, is there a trial and error method of adjusting the valves until the ticking is gone, and therefore a proper seat is found? Or am I just doing the adjustment wrong?
