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  • 3 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Finally som pics. A couple of weeks ago.

I took the car home. My paintshop did a great job.

It is very difficult to get the right color on the picture.

The color is not that blue, but a little bit more grey.












Color Nissan 564 Mount Fuji Blue

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First they painted the inside and backside of all panels.

Than they masked everyting that was painted in the color.

All panels where mounted on the body and than they painted the outside.

This is to be sure that al parts have an even layer of paint all around and to minimize overspray and dust particles in the paint.

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Painting the panels-off (especially with vintage Japanese Stuff) is SOP for higher line restoration shops. It's mandatory in places with winter or seacoast driving.


It's something most people never see, so they won't value it.


Until they live on Okinawa (or Michigan) and see panels that start to rot from the CENTER instead of the edges...and from the  INSIDE out!


I have a 260Z from the beach here in SoCal that has rust perforation in the damnedest areas. Center of the A Pillar, for example... Inside out. Center of the wing/fender, flat spots of the hatch nowhere near the edges!


If you prep and paint from the inside-out then use body wax or schutz to seal everything it's pretty well-lived.


My 73 was waxed after restoration in 81 on Okinawa. It's amazing what doesn't rust if you 'Rusty Jones/Ziebart' it right after stripping everything completely then painting properly...

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this is more or less standard procedure here as well (which is why paintjobs are so darn expensive). Afterwards it´s Ovatrol / Mike Sanders or some other rust proofing. Well, if you don´t like redoing all in 10 years ,that is.


For Citroen DS a restauration specialist did some conservation and just put the panels outside. Funny thing, the GDR made panels rusted from the inside out since they were made from inferior quality metal ...

Edited by Villeman
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  • 3 weeks later...

The front hubs were designed to fit a 65 mustang gt 350 in combination with brake disks from a 95 BMW 5 series. The customer wanted aluminum hubs to save weight. These steel hubs left in the shop and I could use them for my project. The outer diameter from the bearings are the same for mustang and s30.

I used toyota 4pot calipers with custom brackets. These are welded with the right offset to the struts. Thehubs where also cnc machined to match the 120mm 5 lug BMW size. Now its also possible to mount rims with 5 x 4 1/2.


In the rear I welded the square flanges and machined them to round flanges. They are with double patern to match BMW and mustang.








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  • 1 month later...

The copper is sold on a roll with a diameter from approx 350mm and i used a length of 7.5metres. The line to the back of the car was fine. I measured the stock length of the line that i wanted to copy and straigtend the copper line on a wooden block in the vice and tapped it gently with a plastic or wooden mallet. To bent the line i used a piece of tube with 40 mm diameter.

With a special tool can you make the flare on the end of the line. Good luck and be patient.

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