grannyknot Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 The splitter looking lip attaches to the bottom of the air dam and extends back to the frame in front of the radiator, the real job it's doing is keeping the flexible urethane air dam from flexing. Without the lip I put on it there is no rigidity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 (edited) Did you make it custom or purchase it from some where? Edited July 24, 2017 by Neverdone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Did you make it custom or purchase it from some where? I made it and completely forgot to take any pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 Been a long time since I up dated this thread, since the last post I spun a being at the track, had the engine rebuilt. That's what the track is for, to break things. Over the winter got a chance to clean up some things that I fast handed last year just to get it on the road. The last oil analysis reported a lot of sand and dirt in the oil so I got rid of the K&N filter and picked up a real paper filter from a 2008 Mustang, On 7/24/2017 at 1:27 PM, Neverdone said: What did you put on the front lip? That looks great btw! You know I never liked that splitter that I made last year, it wasn't wide enough to reach to the sides, so had another go at it. I'm going BOSOZOKOU ! Made some new clam shell pieces to clamp onto the bottom lip of the air dam, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zJJR Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 Loving your build Chris. Where are you located? I am in Kitchener, Ontario. I am building my 70 240z as we speak. I almost used the acid dipper you used but decided to sandblast instead. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 (edited) Hi Jeff, I'm near Tottenham, north of T.O., have you started your build thread yet? We are all about the pics around here, can never get enough. Edit, yes I found it, looking forward to your build. If you are interested in more detail on the ///MZ you could have a look here, https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50240-thinking-about-installing-an-bmw-m6-engine-in-my-z/ Edited September 28, 2018 by grannyknot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 On 2/18/2018 at 5:41 PM, grannyknot said: You know I never liked that splitter that I made last year, it wasn't wide enough to reach to the sides, so had another go at it. Wow, that looks great! Does it simply clip over the top and bottom of the lip and capture it? I also have the same flimsy urethane air dam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted November 1, 2019 Author Share Posted November 1, 2019 6 hours ago, rossman said: Wow, that looks great! Does it simply clip over the top and bottom of the lip and capture it? I also have the same flimsy urethane air dam. Yes, it's very simple or maybe even crude but it does keep the urethane air dam from bending at speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted December 16, 2019 Author Share Posted December 16, 2019 Okay so I'm dragging this one back out because big changes are happening, the S38 engine experiment was a success in many ways and in a few ways not so much. So I pulled it and sold it on BaT, wonderful engine but it is just not supported anymore. I have rebuilt the e46 S54 M3 engine and that will be the new power plant. So far the swap is going well, the engine is in, transmission and diff are lined up and the custom driveshaft is being built right now. I should have it back in a week, next step is to have the BMW ECU re programed to eliminate all the extras that aren't needed and set to wiring it up. I finally got around to making the top of the radiator support removable, considering how often the engines come and go it will be a big help, just have smooth it out, do some filling/sanding and try to match the paint. The original intake airbox sticks right out into the shock tower and also had problems with the #1 and #6 cylinders having uneven access to air so I have opened it up will try to fabricate a custom funnel to the air filter. @carbuilder723, was nice enough to sent me the drawings for Ron Tyler's BMW engine mounts and after making cardboard mock ups of them I could see they just weren't going to work for my swap, not sure why. So I made a couple of rough mounts and once the bulk of the work is completed on the swap I will take them off and clean up the welds and finish them a bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted February 15, 2020 Author Share Posted February 15, 2020 Moving along, trying to get this swap finished before spring. I got the Silvermine brake kit installed, I ran into a couple of bugs that should have been worked out before shipping but all in all, pretty happy with it so far. The stock plastic airbox elbow runs straight into the D/S shock tower so I had to come up with something to bring the fresh air in, this aluminum contraption might do the job but not sure yet. I haven't come up with a way to attach it yet so I'm open to suggestions. The radiator is from bmw M Roadster so a little narrower and fits well in the Z and with the Spal 30102082 fan I shouldn't have any cooling problems. I couldn't bring myself to push those plastic cable ties through the cooling fins of the new Rad so made up a couple of braces to suspend the fan. Kassel Performance did a great job on the PnP wiring harness, also deleted all the unnecessary programs from the ECU and added a tune that should boost the power, most of that is installed now. I stayed with the original MAF for now as I don't want to spend the summer chasing potential problems with the CSL program, it seems some guys have no problems running the CSL program on these engines but many others can never get it right. The MAF will get me on the road the soonest I think and if more power is needed I can change over next winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted February 15, 2020 Share Posted February 15, 2020 great job on the fabrication! What thickness of aluminum did you end up going with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted February 15, 2020 Author Share Posted February 15, 2020 Thanks, 16ga or .051" So easy to blow holes through, actually I just got it back from a friend who welds for a living. I would have just buggared it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 I think I'm almost ready for spring, the new cooling system is in and the oil cooler, installed the "drive by wire" gas pedal(not thrilled about that but we'll see), the rad support cross over is finished now, exhaust system in place. Just waiting on a fuel regulator to come from Germany before I can start it up. Still have to hang the fenders, hood, grill, bumper and spoiler. This is probably the cleanest this engine will ever be so posted extra pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Looking great! Is that an OEM part or some after market that you've plugged what looks like a water temp sensor into, that's attached to the radiator inlet? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 On 3/25/2020 at 3:24 PM, Neverdone said: Looking great! Is that an OEM part or some after market that you've plugged what looks like a water temp sensor into, that's attached to the radiator inlet? Thanks, that is the coolant return to the pressure tank that sits where the battery use to be, BMW makes a plastic piece that inserts there but it is known to crack easily so I turned one out of aluminum on the lathe and screwed a brass elbow in so no more fear of cracking. The temp sensors are hidden behind the oil filter canister. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caperix Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 Of you don't like the floor mounted pedal z3's use a sensor that connects to a hanging pedal. They are expensive new but should be cheap form a salvage yard. Just make sure it's new enough to be drive by wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 22 hours ago, caperix said: Of you don't like the floor mounted pedal z3's use a sensor that connects to a hanging pedal. They are expensive new but should be cheap form a salvage yard. Just make sure it's new enough to be drive by wire. Hey, thanks. I will check that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted April 10, 2020 Author Share Posted April 10, 2020 (edited) Well, I got the engine started with the first turn of the key, that's a first for me. I still have to repair an oil cooler line I screwed up but it sounds pretty good. Edited April 10, 2020 by grannyknot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 Awesome! Congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuD 91gt Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 Well done! Glad I’m not the only one where it doesn’t usually start up like on TV! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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