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Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors


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Yes, I am trying to keep some things original as possible.

     Back to Fuel Pump Modifications:

      After measure the tank depth and setting the pump length. the pump was installed.

1539194046_IMG_1869(1).JPG.a56d1f6d6f6e913c2f489971abf3e5a0.JPG

 

This pump can be rotated any direction that you prefer without drilling new mounting holes.

IMG_1870.JPG.71d99be483ddbdbfb6446c5dcd2c3515.JPG Left to Right- Return Line, Fuel Feed Line and Vent Line.

 

The pump mounting bolts were torqued to 50 in lbs in a Star Pattern and three increments.

IMG_1873.JPG.fd4bfac0418ed541a373c0de3f28f39c.JPG

 

Using the Borescope, you can see the filter on the bottom of the tank inside the surge tank.

IMG_1878.JPG.99ba68e484adb1efad16d46e96150bc5.JPG

 

IMG_1877.JPG.0f0d09d0ae0723334d4726ac575f64c8.JPG  View of upper side of Fuel Pump

 

Because of the Fuel Pump location,  the new Fuel Sender Unit had to be modified to clear the walls of the Surge Tank.

IMG_1889.JPG.a955fb2b45f31a0f1cb6bc99ff13391b.JPG Using a Vise Grip, the Float Arm was bent to clear the Surge Tank Walls.   The Float Arm can be adjusted further after putting Fuel in the Tank and comparing Fuel Gauge reading,

 

A 100 micro Inline Fuel Filter was installed between the Pump and EFI fuel Inlet.

1072712015_IMG_1905(1).JPG.fd2b715591dc548c75cad148024f5fd1.JPGThis Filter 

This Filter uses a Stainless Mesh Filter so it is reusable.

 

A Two Piece Bracket is constructed to hold the Fuel Filter.

IMG_1914.JPG.a4782f143b7af42b2e57d20d5157a224.JPG  It was made of 1/8" plate Steel.

 

4Life Nickel Copper Fuel  Line 3/8" x 25 feet purchased from Amazon.   Came by Federal Express in a small 18" x 18" x1" box in 

one big coil.

IMG_1906.JPG.a421600f1ddb728ffccbd96a68c54ed5.JPG  Start by slowly unwinding the coil slowly keeping the roll as straight up and down as

possible.   When the roll is about 6 feet high, it is time to go outside.   Use you feet to hold the lower part of the roll as you are unwinding and sliding your feet on the line.

Keep going till the line is relatively straight.   Cut the line in half to about 12 1/2 feet long to make it easier to handle.   A straight piece of  1/2" electric conduit(about 7-8feet)

was fastened to a portable work bench using two Vise Grips.  The conduit should be small as possible for the best result.

IMG_1908.JPG.75fc8b2c38b9ada231c924c05561581f.JPG

 

Sliding the tubing back and forth rotating the tubing at the same time.   Eventually the tubing should come out relatively straight.

IMG_1909.JPG.e04c0fc29027af2e4b77af39f2ff734e.JPG

 

Next Step to Make AN Fittings and Braided Steel Hose for the Fuel Lines.

 

Happy Turkey Day to All!!!

IMG_1914.JPG

The bracket will be powercoated when completed.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry for my delay in posting, I was busy putting up Christmas decorations for my house.

 

AN Fitting Installation-

 

 Wrap Electrical Tape 3 or 4 times tightly around Braided Line.   The Tape prevents the wire from unraveling.

 

IMG_1938.JPG.06ea4c08a11d83a6ccc20c7f09022d1c.JPG Cut across the tape with a 24" Cable Cutter or use a Cutoff Tool.

 

IMG_1939.JPG.d4636fbf2094cf466e95daee14348518.JPG  Cutter will crush the hose like this but just squeeze it till round again.

 

IMG_1941.JPG.ffd8a1e22947466ee5e7b4ad4fac24ff.JPG  Tip-Wrap a Plastic Cable Tie slightly down from the cut.   I find it holds the braided wire tightly together ,otherwise the wire tends to spread outward when pushing into the socket.

IMG_1943.JPG.3a22a50f74b364be7f11eb9068ff136b.JPG I wrap the socket fitting with a wrap of masking tape to prevent scratching.

 

IMG_1951.JPG.a942257d5fb06c2ab45857efd06f56a7.JPGPut Socket Side in a Vise to hold it tight then push the Braided Wire Counterclock wise while pushing inward into the socket.  When the leading edge of the Braided Wire fully enters the socket, cut the Cable Tie off.   Continue push the Braided Wire in

 until the inner Black Rubber Hose( check by looking inside the opposite end) just barely touches.  Once that happens,  use a Felt Marker and put a line on the Braided Hose and edge of the Socket. 

 

  IMG_1944.JPG.f4278eae49291535a959a8df2da0f65f.JPG  Lubricate the Threaded Section of fitting with Light Machine Oil or WD40.

 

IMG_1948.JPG.ab96bc61f96ff8d90ba58779bf122c1d.JPG  Screw the Threaded Section in by Hand Clockwise until it gets tight then use a wrench to

tighten it down.  Remember to watch the Felt Line that you made.  If the Line moves away from the fitting is means that the screw is pushing the fitting outward and not screwing into the rubber section.   If it is, you have to disassemble it and cut it off and start over.

 

IMG_1954.JPG.5cc43067d7d91b02c8e4ab7ccc8483d4.JPG     Finished product.   Of course, the Real Test is to check under pressure.

 

This procedure was utilizing 6AN fitting which is 3/8" Fuel Line size.

 

Braided Fuel Line Installation

 

IMG_1963.JPG.52f8df899e5ef35de9ac04c22532516f.JPG  From the Fuel Pump to the In Line Fuel Filter then to the 3/8" 4Life Nickel Copper Fuel Line heading the Engine Compartment.

IMG_1957.JPG.c384f949c76f489eef9f08a772569332.JPG The other( the closest) Braided Line is the Return Fuel Line to the Pump.

 

IMG_1962.JPG.142783c2af2f2c8c54f501b6e5c1da65.JPGBoth 3/8" Fuel Pressure and Return Line in the transmission tunnel.

 

IMG_1973.JPG.50eaa62ff055c4e299564860b0d48f45.JPG 

Pic of Fuel Line Clamps.

 

Made  from sheet metal then powdercoated Gold.   Used Nutserts to attach the clamps to the tunnel.

 

Replacing the Door Hinge Pin-

 

   IMG_1834.JPG.15049d1a028644eb7323e049fc4148ba.JPGThis replacement two Door Hinge Pin

came from Malta and cost about $50.  It normally takes about 4 months to ship but the first shipment was lost in the Mail.   So I finally

got my set in about 6 months.  The pic shows the measurements of the replacement pin and brass inserts.   A machinist should be able to

make in no time.   Usually only the Upper Door Pin wears out as the weight is mostly carried on this pin.

 

IMG_1828.JPG.7e67962484a2141cc0b52b6e36b3906a.JPG  pic of assembled hinge pin

 

IMG_1830.JPG.137c37d2cad656ec1bfbc9b8c5624573.JPG The Pin Bushing is removed tapping the pin out with a punch and hammer.

 

IMG_1836.JPG.b4e08739898bbb0ef50edae812637642.JPG I used Anti-Seize on the pin to prevent further problems.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

NEW CAR DOLLY-

    I constructed a new car dolly to move the body around for engine and transmission installation.   I used a lot of materials from "old car dolly".   This dolly was about one foot higher off the floor to make working under car easier.

 

IMG_1998.JPG.f70019ca6d1b21e854e41891a71c5981.JPG  Bottom view of Dolly

 

IMG_2001.JPG.541722cd66e495c7998bb9183d2098c0.JPG Side view

 

After it was completed, I removed the jack stands and slid the Dolly in.

 

WIRING HARNESS-

   The original wiring was in bad shape.   The tape was starting to unwind and was covered with Rustprooting  from in the quarter panels.

IMG_1981.JPG.db89b98567c211e8cf27f17a0a6b62ec.JPG  What a mess!

 

The wiring harness was hung from ceiling to straighten it out while I wait for the new harness wrapping tape from Ebay.

 

Fuel Evaporation Hoses

    First,  the Vapor Tank was cleaned and sandblasted.

IMG_1984.JPG.72153c4dbf038b2beb1bc4dd0b59fdd9.JPG  Using the Borescope, I checked inside the Vapor Tank.   It surprising clean.

 

IMG_1985.JPG.62084f9aa8b33c8d413b674ad342f253.JPG IMG_1986.JPG.a5f6549e696e65dfcd43a29fa1b8ec3f.JPG   Then PowderCoated.

 

The !/2" and 3/4" vapor hose had springs added to the hoses from pinching.    These were regular springs for now as the proper  hose protectors were unavailable until January.

1507900222_IMG_2006(1).JPG.0a21b640294fee1adb5c2e2887f7ef8a.JPG IMG_2010.JPG.6b9a6df457233439d608da1e4ff1a53d.JPG

 

IMG_1993.JPG.7cb7d5ef55ded11b7d96d8087c7e95ab.JPG  Vapor Hose diagram

 

Hot Wheels 240Z modifications

 

I started this project about May 2020.   Using the Hot Wheel Fugu 240z, I wanted to make it have opening door, hood  and hatch.   When I was a kid, I made model cars then modify them with opening doors and trunk.   Then, made tube frame and working suspension.  Even, advanced to lettering the race cars by hand.

IMG_2051.JPG.9c0784922b8af08c5e81ac96e67c8a93.JPG

 

IMG_2055.JPG.f52521b55c9d6d78ab795556b455851f.JPG

 

I am keeping my eyes for a Hot Wheels LS motor and transmission, racing seats, roll bar and exhaust system.

Then, paint this car when I am not working on my  Big Z.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Rear Rocket Bunny Flares Moduicications

   The Front Lower section of the Rear Quarter Panel Flares  was not sufficiently  secured down

IMG_1893.JPG.23b04d9d49a8474c425f4d30a757c41b.JPG  So. I installed one 6MM x 1.0 nutsert to the underside of the rocker panel.

Then, made a 16 gauge sheet meta; plate to go over the nutsert.   To give this plate additiona; strength,  another plate on the exterior of the flare.

A hole was drilled through both plates.  So you ended up with the flare sandwiched between both plates.   Also, a right angle was added the inside edge of the plate so it was against the rocker panel pinch weld.

IMG_1896.JPG.5bb2420df2bddf2c47108d988c83f37f.JPG   Side view of Quarter Panel Reinforcing Plates.

 

Late Christmas Present

           Santa Claus delivered my Christmas Present at the end of December:  2020 Chevrolt LS3 #19370416  6.2 Liter 430HP/ 425 Lbs Ft torque.   It

came from Scoggin Dickey Chevrolet in Texas.   Cost was about $7600 plus $900 freight( truck and ocean freight).  The shipment took about 3 weeks

from Texas to Honolulu.

        My local Machine Shop offered me the use of his Dummy LS Motor to make mounts and check fitment issues.

   Side View

 

IMG_2012.JPG.3e4cd61c08e3a35a2cac598ce811be9d.JPG  Bottom View

 

Because its light weight,  it was very easy to put the motor in and out of the Z to check fitment issues.

IMG_2079.JPG.cac18c84b03c31990c1e6982baf31a43.JPG

 

 

Differential Mount Modifications

      With the additional torque from the LS motor,  the original Differential Mount was modified.   Some people use solid Differential Mounts but didn't

want excessive vibration and noise.   However, the factory Differential mount has a low profile and is small in size.   My solution was the cut off the corners

of the original mount then add Four 1/4 Right Angle Tabs.  

IMG_2063.JPG.c2bb3967d1338d1f7e8c4060ae8d03cd.JPG  The Right Angle Tabs being welded to original mount with

 

a piece of 1/4 "steel providing the "Air Gap".   This design allows the Differential mount to operation normally until Load is applied then it will be "solid" mount.

 

Finished Differential Mount.

 

IMG_2065.JPG.1d635016c0106c4a3c150ae562d74f51.JPG  Bottom View

 

IMG_2066.JPG.ff7bb53ccdaeaf4b0258233dc7ccb0ff.JPG   Rear View

 

IMG_2067.JPG.726cc452a63b4b5afa58bde553e773d3.JPG  Side View

 

Rear Differential

 

    The Differential Cover was Glass Beaded then hand sanded with 400 grit sandpaper.   Then the cover was polished wih Aluminum Buffing Rouge  

on the Buffing Wheel.

IMG_2092.JPG.ddb96767e4ed83d5a11a957439ef2db8.JPG

 

 

IMG_2095.JPG.82610a826ac636cf0e115d4f01053f59.JPG   The Cover was painted with Polyurethane Clear.  The Clear will prevent the cover from dulling out. The Carrier was painted with black Polyurethane.

 

I had forgotten that this R200 differential contained 3:70 gears.

IMG_2099.JPG.80cc0eab0d8d196cfc9afc152b8c71bc.JPG

 

This gear ratio is much better suited than the usual 3.34 gears in most 240zs.   Especially since, my T56 has a 2:55 First Gear.  The combination  should provide  Wicked  Acceleration.

IMG_2044.JPG.b7f3172730226ed6b4c328ddc2ba9d71.JPG    LS3 Motor awaiting installation.

IMG_2097 (1).JPG

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  • 3 weeks later...

 Motor Mounts-

   Originally I planned to used Dirty Dingo Z LS conversion motor mounts.   But after installing on my Dummy LS Block in my car, I decided I wanted more engine setback than they could provide.

IMG_2070.JPG.c760c200cf411773a6c052016f6ab6a3.JPG

 

Also. looked ICT BILLET Mounts

ictbillet5.jpg.cb952710ad3c00b0dc245f88d3d614ea.jpg

 

So I decided to basically make my own mounts of 1/4" Steel Plate.

IMG_2105.JPG.15140aae07e24195e5dd5f4c0dbec81e.JPG

 

As you can see, my version is 4" to 5" longer.   I knew this was longer than necessary but usually go longer, just in case,,  i need extra area to construct AC mounts too.   I can always cut them shorter later.

  On the left bottom side of LS, there are two plugs.

IMG_2118.JPG.2e89e6ec1dbcd21050b09c86643b4133.JPG

The front one is a oil gallery plug.   I plan to use this one to lubricating the motor before firing it up.   The other plug is a freeze plug.  The left mount was modified to give clearance of the oil gallery plug.

   I took the oi pan measurements from my LS motor on the engine stand and place them on the Dummy Motor to check clearance between oil pan and rack.  It had.

IMG_2111.JPG.a6a6272cb6e4cec4c466337c4a879001.JPG

Checking engine level (length and sideways) 

IMG_2079.JPG.886846195ade1ed0c26a58285288dd83.JPG

 

Checking body level (length wise and side side ways) 

  IMG_2102.JPG.7af437cc94ed0973c6e6080834b4ac6e.JPG     

 

 

 

IMG_2081.JPG.f9c88c368653870ffcc139095553a081.JPG  Checking engine rear clearance

 

  The Steering Shaft was also checked for clearance.

IMG_2127.JPG.4b80a063f82b9b27b6ed9739e93f8404.JPG

                                                                                                          

Motor to Firewall Clearance checked

IMG_2121.JPG.77f60334d96d10b53541e6ed8d3337cd.JPG

Note-Use of Wooden Blocks to temporary suspend engine while constructing  mounts.

 

Tack welding the Mount Motors

IMG_2190.JPG.03dfde24eaa249bf3f00f6ccac187f03.JPG

Note- A Square Tubing Spacer was created to limit welding distortion.   Also, the mount was tack welded to table for the same reason.

  Between this final version of the Motor Mount and the first version, there were probably Three others (some only 1/ 4" difference in height).  Trial and error had to be done to achieve the necessary results.   Also,

while designing the mounts, one has to consider for other things(like air condition condition, power steering, alternator,etc).

                                                              Motor Mounts- Powdercoated

195994615_IMG_2193(1).JPG.1219073be6d670827c377a73327c0537.JPG Note-access holes drilled for oil gallery and

freeze plugs.

 

IMG_2102.JPG                                              side view

IMG_2193 (1).JPG                          

 

                                                                        Left Side View

IMG_2134.JPG

 

 

                                       Top View

IMG_2132.JPG  

 

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                                       Bottom View of Bell Housing Clearance                                

IMG_2130.JPG.cc8d0b313c48fbf0bd3880cf696cc02b.JPG

 

 Left Side

IMG_2134.JPG.b8874918682bff1c85f444bc5c254806.JPG

                                                                                                                                                 Top view

IMG_2132.JPG.9c453816a0a2e6eb208fd649530fdca2.JPG   Removed Hood Lock Mount to gain more

clearance.

 

                                       Right Side                                                    

 

170779151_IMG_2133(1).JPG.ed8369ba3ba3e54adec498be2abf945b.JPG

 

  IMG_2196.JPG.4c3feefc0248786c86f4137c9a85923a.JPG Room for Exhaust not bad  

                         Front View-Motor Mounts

 

IMG_2128.JPG.6a7bca23bc09276eca041897cfa348ed.JPG

      1/2" Clearance between Balancer and Steering Rack

 

                Bottom View-Right Side           Tight Clearance between Firewall and Motors

 

 

                                             Tight Firewall to Motor Clearance

IMG_2206.JPG.4c642d63ee2f6d099f69cf6a7e3d3f63.JPG

 

                                 Front view of Both Motor Mounts

IMG_2194.JPG.5053d0d417c10e6c946677666a3472d9.JPG

 

                                               

Next-Transmission Crossmember

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Nice work on the motor mounts.  Interested to see your Trans mount design to compare with my prototype. 

 

I too decided to make my own mounts because all the companies that offer LS swap mounts place the engine quiet far forward.  Mine are puck style and till messing around with design.  Currently they come off frame rails but may rethink design to come off cross member.  When the DIY stainless steel header kit I ordered arrives will help answer any remaining questions on engine placement.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Sorry about the delay in posting but I ran across an unforeseen problem: my used T56 transmission that I picked up about 15 years ago would not bolt up to my crate LS3.  After a lot of research, I found out to correct this problem there were basically Two Methods to convert my LT1 T56 to a LS1 T56 transmission.   First and cheapest was shipping the Front Midsection Plate to a Mainland Machine Shop to machine it to accept a LS1 input shaft.  The cost would be about $100 plus shipping( To and Back).  Also, beside that I would still need a LS input shaft( used about$120) and LS Bell Housing( used about$150)  The Machine Shops are in Washington State and Texas.  I didn't want to ship the Front Cover to them and have something happen.  So the other option was to purchase a new or used Front Cover Plate, LS1 Input Shaft, and a LS Bell Housing.  So I purchased a new LS1 Input Shaft and LS1 Front Cover  from AMP Distributing in Texas( for $210 and $240).   Shipping was $60 First Class Mail.  The GM Bell Housing was about $280  from Amazon.  Total= $510 including freight.  Fortunately, I only paid $1000 for a low mileage Iroc Camaro T56 trans back then.

IMG_2277.JPG.d85f2c93ba26eb32225029b88d813da4.JPG

  Engine Side View of      LTI T56                                             LS1 T56

     Difference mainly around Input Shaft Area and Casting Holes for LS Hydraulic Slave and Bleeder

IMG_2280.JPG.773bd1ecae7c74539489dc20d80b001c.JPG

Difference between   LT1                                                   LS1         Transmission Side View

              Relatively No Difference

 

IMG_2276.JPG.937b858363020192ffadcd82c5129846.JPG

Input Shafts Differences            LT1                           LS1   much longer

 

IMG_2282.JPG.15575cfce06a8c5a6056b5262357a100.JPGBell Housing Differences

LT1- Top                               LS1- Bottom        required Bigger Flywheel

 

Input Shaft Replacement-

  First, Remove Front Cover while pushing the Input Shaft inward to prevent Blocker Ring from falling out(can use a small screwdriver to hold it in position).   

IMG_E2269.JPG.234229c14d8993a67921ea58a7412154.JPG LT1 Input Shaft Removed by rotating it and "wiggling" shaft.  At the same tie, Keep pressure on Input Shaft to prevent Blocker Ring from falling out.  Take your Time.

 

Remove bolt Input and Counter Shaft Bearing by placing Eight Fingers on the inside of the races pulling outward while Rotating the Bearing Race at the same time.   The Races should come out easily.  Once out, remove shim under races and measure their thickness.   Input and Countershaft have different diameters shims.   I used a Felt Pen and write their thickness next to their bores.

I ordered a Tremec T56 Shim Kit ($50 from Ebay).

1718160421_IMG_2273(1).JPG.d09961360d7c43a3113f3c9657855b5d.JPG

Then, after cleaning I replaced the Input Shaft Race with the New One and original shim.

Then. put Counter Shaft Race with  original shim inside.   Setup Dial Indicator to check end play of both Input and counter shafts.

IMG_E2283.JPG.8be58918a57620bd3e94c158f938efa5.JPG

 

I followed the Tremec factory manual to obtain Endplay and PreLoad for Input and Counter Shaft.  Even made their Special Tool(consisted of a Metric Threded Steel Rod) to insert in Counter Shaft.   But I found the readings were too erratic.   So I searched the Internet to find another method.  A Transmission Rebuilder came up with this method.  

 

This method was basicially over shimming the bearing under till the shaft "Binded" then remove .002 shim.   Retorque it and test it again.   The Test consists "Feeling by Hand" .   DO NOT LAUGH!!  I have seen racers adjust Rear Differentials by Hand and come out with Perfect Tooth Pattern.   Note- The Tremec Shim Kit has 8 various thickness shims so you

have to "play" (add and subtract ) shims  to obtain .002 removed shim.

IMG_2290.JPG.307204ef7fe7578fa541089a7d8d89a8.JPG  Dial Indicators don't lie- .002 Endplay and Preload

 

If you need to check Pressure Plate to Clutch Throwout Bearing Clearance-

 

Using Straight Edges-One across the Bearing, measure distance to transmission face.

IMG_2296.JPG.f2b5d6470781eb3229ea30f1bb9b39db.JPG

 

IMG_2293.JPG.d115684de1671c7f90225894e19b8cac.JPG

 Place Straight Edge against Bell Housing Face and measure the distance to Clutch Fingers.   To get

Clutch Fingers to Throw Bearing Clearance, just subtract the Two Measurements for Clearance.

 

Engine Stopper-

   I fabricated my Engine Stopper out of 1/8'" steel to hold motor from turning when tightening flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

IMG_2264.JPG.8cb01e3f0d5ab124dda41ef900e94dd4.JPG

 

790651721_IMG_2267(1).JPG.e2a2c0ee8e5f8670b2d44ef0dfadfb38.JPG   Installed on Block

 

 

Next-PreLubing the LS3 motor

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Prelubing the LS3 Motor-

    I borrowed a Oil Pressurized Tank to prelube my LS3 motor as LS motors can not be easily prelubed like the older 350

motors.  The operation is simple-Motor Oil is pressurized in the tank to about 50PSI and fed though the oil gallery plug.  On the LS motor, it is located on the Front Left Lower Side.   After starting to pressurizing the oil gallery, I rotated the motor

about 1/4 turn to allow the oil enter all of the passages.   Keep rotating the motora 1/4 turn while checking the amount of oil in the tank to prevent creating air pockets in the oil passages.   Continue until the oil reaches the rocker arms and springs or the recommended oil amount( 5 1/2 quarts in this case).

IMG_2257.JPG.cbec390dc08251e52c5838d1e12a079e.JPG Motor rotated with a 1/2 breaker bar.

 

Clutch Slave to Clutch Fingers Clearance-

    The Holley T56 Shim Kit ($39 from Amazon) arrived.  The kit consists of 3 Thickness of Aluminum Round Shims

0.059, 0.125 and 0.185.    The shims are installed to obtain the recommended clearance of 0.125" to o.200" between the measurements between the Throw Bearing(fully compressed) and transmission case face subtracted from the measurement between Clutch Fingers and Bell Housing Face.  See pic below.

IMG_2329.JPG.b87076a70a344f580ba785a69f2daba8.JPG 

 

 

 

    IMG_2325.JPG.b3f2d6683b5e20bfdb4777985a1cd687.JPG   Holley Shim Kit

 

Bell Housing to Clutch Fingers Measurement

IMG_2293.JPG.b40d7692224a66fb611fbd6ba19bf8ef.JPG  Using Straightedge and Machinist Ruler

s

Clutch Slave(with Spring Removed) to Transmission Case edge Measurement

IMG_2296.JPG.b1ac9eda1f7b4d0013786ade7b249849.JPG

 

IMG_2297.JPG.99cc2dab2241ce8cbaa247862db8f767.JPG   Do not forget to remove Clutch Slave Spring while measuring.

 

In my case, only the 0.185 Shim was required to obtain the Proper Clearance.

 

IMG_2327.JPG.d19675059b92209a41bd75929e39c52b.JPG

 

Clutch Master Cylinder-

   I used Wilwood 3/4"  Clutch Master Cylinder( $49 on Amazon).  Also, used Russel 45 degree Banjo Fitting with Copper Sealing Washers for it.

 IMG_2312.JPG.4ebe90e55aa4870890ce006b8ab444be.JPG

 

Bench Bleed the Wilwood Clutch Master before Installation.

IMG_2308.JPG.e8adbd1686eb0f822eb3ee9d3b204262.JPG

 

 

Wilwood Clutch Master installed with 36" Braided Stainless Steel 3AN Hose

IMG_2331.JPG.c8cae074afb78f11c88ac68327a36216.JPG

 

 Testing the Clutch Master and Slave before installing Motor and Trans into the Car

Most people probably would bother to test the Clutch System before putting it into the car but I rather be ":Safe" than "Sorry" and having to remove the motor and trans for a leak.   I picked up a  3AN Union fitting to extend the clutch line to about 6 feet to do the system testing.

IMG_2306.JPG.593cc1ce32193b6c3fabe4afa891e8d9.JPG

 

 

Before the Clutch Testing, Clutch Pedal Endplay and Pedal Stop adjustments were done.

 

490216886_IMG_E2330(1).JPG.f0aa623eefd488437d945e3ba445cd8d.JPG

To physically test clutch operation, Put the transmission in gear.  The output shaft should not able to turned by hand.   Now, pushing in the clutch pedal should release the output shaft and allow it to be turned by hand.  This test verifies that the clutch is functioning properly.

Also, a Visual Inspection was done utilizing my Borescope.

IMG_2341.JPG.8a0c28fd77c8bc286cf41c044500a60b.JPG

No leaks at Bleeder Screw or Clutch Line Inlet.

 

                  Video of Throw Out Bearing operation

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Drive Line Angles

     Now that I have my Motor Mounts made and LS motor installed, the construction of the Transmission Cross Member could to be done.   But first, the measurement of the Drive Line Angles is necessary.   This because the Transmission Cross Member will determine the Motor and Transmission  Drivetrain Angle #1.   If the Crossmember was constructed before checking Drive Line Angles and I needed to adjust Angle #1, it might require making a new Crossmember to change the angle.  So checking the Drive Line Angles now and establishing Cross Member height before makes sense. 

Angle  #1 is the Motor/Trans Angle

Angle#2  is the Drive Shaft Slope.  The Last one is 

Angle #3 -Pinion Shaft Angle.   The measurements (if possible) should be with the Vehicle Level and at normal Ride Height.

How To Measure Drive Shaft Angles – Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts (4xshaft.com)

This article gives a good overall view of the measurement procedure.

   I downloaded the Tremic App from the App Store to my IPhone.  I used  the

Klein Digital Angle Finder from Home Depot-$39.

IMG_2186.JPG.9167935359565415289b783843cf383f.JPG

It has a strong magnet and very easy to use.   The digital readings are big and with the black background readable even outdoors.

 

All measurements were made in the Center Line of the Drive Train.

IMG_2236.JPG.23eb8d88a32e3e877b22fe3f66a5d497.JPG

Angle# 1   Motor/Trans Angle measured at Front Driveshaft Yoke

 

IMG_2237.JPG.47a89316de1191bdf954bf5fc2650db0.JPG

 

Angle# 2   Measured at Driveshaft Center-Driveshaft Angle

 

IMG_2239.JPG.aca11e624d1188bf6f9e8e20066e8aa1.JPG

 

Angle# 3 Measured at Rear Driveshaft Yoke-Pinion Angle

 

I transferred these measurements in the Tremec App.

IMG_2240.PNG.a7ea365147d4bb67b6b4546c83dae6cf.PNG  The Results-Everthing in the Green-PASS

 

If there was a measurement in Red, there would be a problem with that Angle or Angles  and should be corrected.  Shimming or other methods can be employed to adjust the angle.

   For those without Iphone or Digital Angle Finder can get a similar results with a manual Protractors and a Straight Edge.           The Formula is:

              Motor/Trans Angle-2.3 Degrees                  

     minus Drive Shaft Angle-2.0 Degrees             

                                             =0.3 Degrees                                                                               

                         Pinion Angle-3.9 Degrees

      minus Drive Shaft Angle-2.0 Degrees

                                             = 1.9 Degrees

    Using my measurements in this case                

 

Next-Transmission Crossmember

                                 

                                

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Transmission Cross Member-

   

  As always, the first thing to do is to create a card board template of the Transmission Cross Member.

IMG_2159.JPG.f1d5a342f1cfa2c3779149b7ae7bbf27.JPG

 

Then, the Trial Fitting of the Template.

IMG_2161.JPG.4053ade978306812cbf193dd8d819a2e.JPG

 

As you can see, there are plenty improvements to do the card board board template.   The Transmission Crossmember will have to built with a much "tighter fit" to accommodate the big exhaust pipes (2 1/4" to 3") with sufficient ground clearance too.

 

 A 14" Chop Saw was used to cut the 1/4" steel plate.   I bought 1/4" x4" x 20 foot steel plate for $67 to save time in

cutting the long lengths.   That left me more time to work on just cutting 4" width cuts.

 

IMG_2162.JPG.dd6d297be516e0b5c2b69aac1360d029.JPG

 

By cutting only half away through through the plate made it easier to bend since I did not a Heavy Metal Press Brake.  If you cut it right, you can still bend it by hand but it will be strong enough to test fit it on the car.

 

IMG_2164.JPG.fe3d183171341cbe85b06b4336a345f7.JPG.

 

The Klein Angle Finder was utilized to check the plate angles.

IMG_2165.JPG.141d3c1cc4fbf2cc0bb1f103a7cf20c5.JPG

 

The Stock Transmission Mounts was trimmed to gain additional clearance.

IMG_2170.JPG.89bcfbabe6bfb20e727922508c3faf11.JPG  Stock Mount  Before

 

IMG_2172.JPG.3dde6e80a894543918f4b3bf078f69e1.JPG    Mount After Trimming  Four Corners

This trimming allowed the Plate to be closer to the Mount.

 

The Cross Member was first tack welded then test fitted then fully welded.

 

IMG_2184.JPG.071cdad6218925aa820b28f4169cfa91.JPG

 The Cross Member was tack welded to another 1/4" steel plate to prevent warping /

 

IMG_2185.JPG.3a6254a7c089cf5bdaca26bd6d4e9147.JPG

 

Note-There is a change in the shape of the Trans Crossmember.   These changes created maximum space for the exhaust pipes.

 

Cross Member Powder Coated Black.

 

IMG_2226.JPG.580ca5fa4f28999d8cac5f9fb47ff51b.JPG

 

 

Because of the Extreme Motor/Trans setback, the Reverse Lock Out Solenoid was touching the trans tunnel.  I could have eliminated the Solenoid or Modify the Trans Tunnel.   I decided to do

the Later.

IMG_2144.JPG.b1f87202416ac53f0519638024c1e506.JPG

 

I fabricated a small Sheetmetal Hump to provide Solenoid clearance.

IMG_2462.JPG.184ce7976c288f0c1c7cb4ea3f05b8a3.JPG

 

  Interior View of Tunnel Modification

805556365_IMG_2452(1).JPG.791c7a7bb55a3f59012cb6248146c762.JPG

 

I also added Four 1/4" Steel Plates to reinforce by "sandwiching" the interior floor panel between

the Transmission Cross Member.   Remember, that they are Two !"X 3" x !/8" Rectangular Steel Tubing Frame Connectors under the floor pan, too.

 

 

These are the Two 1/4" Reinforcing Floor Plates being fabricated.

 

IMG_2210.JPG.d3326a5d7f25c46e1611d6922d70acbc.JPG

 

Trial fitting of Reinforcing Plates and Crossmember bolted together.

IMG_2214.JPG.975a8f3348c02cd0fd8559c7ca1ff94c.JPG

 

Cross Member Powder Coated Black

IMG_2226.JPG.580ca5fa4f28999d8cac5f9fb47ff51b.JPG

 

 

Passenger Side Interior Reinforcing Plate

 

 

 

Bottom View of Cross Member

IMG_2480.JPG.c74dfb4dfaf76494242885a9f6481aaf.JPG   Back View-Note Tight Fit compared to First Version

 

Bottom view-Cross Member

IMG_E2486.JPG.eb1f06da6a6d030e0d06360599df323b.JPG

 

Cross Member, Upper and Lower Reinforcing Plates held together with 3/8" Yellow Zinc Bolts

 

 

Outer Reinforcing Bottom Plate( one on each side-Left and Right

IMG_E2484.JPG.2c88605e2095a71f8c116ae43f4ffc25.JPG

 

Interior Upper Reinforcing Plate( one on each side-Left and Right

IMG_E2453.JPG.0d66c4b2b3bbb2ee4485b3c2154f0e05.JPG

 Left Side Interior Upper Reinforcing Plate( Note-Frame Connector passes under this plate

 

 Close Up View of Trans Mount

 

 

IMG_2459.JPG

 

 

Next-Finalizing Fuel Tank Venting Hoses

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Fuel Venting Hoses-

   One of the problems of the 240z is the Gas Smell in the interior of the vehicle.   Leaking Hatch Weather Stripping,Leaking Tail Light Housing Gaskets, and Leaking Fuel Vapor Hoses.   There are Three Different Fuel Vapor Hoses used in the Fuel Tank area.   The usual sizes (inside Diameter) are 5/16", 5/16" and 3/4"  Neoprene Fuel Hose.   Instead for searching for various sizes of Rubber Hose Sealing Grommets, I decided to fabricate my own.

IMG_2390.JPG.53704f5edceae1205105b3897e98daef.JPG  These were four for $4.

 

The Local Hardware Store had 1" or 1 1/8" Wooden Chair Leg Tips.

       First, I drilled a 1/8" Pilot Hole in the Chair Tip and drilled it with a Blair 5/8" Hole Saw.

 

 

Then Drilled it with a Blair 5/8" Hole Saw.

2116029933_IMG_2396(1).JPG.21353c50369d13b8e19073522dc8eebd.JPG

 

IMG_2393.JPG.1f7e6bdb6d659e2e31005a4790424e5c.JPG

 

IMG_2411.JPG.1b8ab2cf07d42a492657054f71e7e785.JPG  Chair tip fitted on Hose

 

IMG_2398.JPG.cd7d103359ce20cdac3eee28b486363f.JPG  Test Fit

 

IMG_2397.JPG.13da0e4b0454096008cbd10a682c2f99.JPG Note-Tight Sealing Tip

 

For the Fuel Vapor Hoses going through Sheet Metal Holes, the Tips Tapered Exterior Body

was utilized.   

 

 

The Chair Tip was "Notched" at appropriate diameter with a File and Hack Saw Blade.

IMG_2405.JPG.1d44af019a751307bbf94d1b811bc3c5.JPG  The Notch became a Locking Edge to hold

the Chair Tip in place.

 

IMG_2520.JPG.f88fe7b2e540bbf50532753d9e292543.JPG  Check Upper Left Corner to see the Locking Notch Chair Tip installed on a 5/16" Fuel Vapor Line.

IMG_2522.JPG.543cd187a0fcaba8fd07b8d6b315bf0c.JPG

 

Bottom View of Fuel Output, Fuel Return and Fuel Tank Vent Hoses on tank.

 

Bottom View of Upper Fuel Tank 5/16" Vent Hose next to Fuel Filter.

IMG_2521.JPG.078cea65778797e752a623b45e03208f.JPG

 

IMG_2525.JPG.ba188d2922ee00c4efbb3458f2d3e886.JPG

 

Bottom View of Fuel Outlet and Fuel Return Hoses above Differential.

 

Rear Interior View of Fuel Vapor Hoses in Rear Tail light Panel.

IMG_E2415.JPG.cf6a085962c3beb3b7081475e70c8e89.JPG

 

Passenger Side Interior View of Fuel Vapor Tank and Connecting Hoses

 

IMG_2417.JPG.fb9e9119f95ba7c0e2fc1d6e0985d383.JPG

 

 

Next-Heater Box and AC Evaporator Repair

 

 

 

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  Heater Box and AC Evaporator Unit Repair

 

IMG_2420.JPG.f763607d617786ed06dac299689b90f3.JPG   pic of A.R.A. Evaporator Unit apart

A company called A.R.A. provided their AC Conversion Kits for the local Nissan Dealers 240Zs which did not come with OEM AC until later models.   The kits were bolt-in operation with Condenser, Evaporator Unit,  York Compressor & Engine Mounting Bracket, Dryer, and Hoses.   Installation time was about 4-5 hours.  In those days, only R12 Freon was utilized .

 

 

Major Crack found in Evaporator Case.

IMG_2425.JPG.484c632032c83448497e562aef82aeea.JPG

 

This interior area of the plastic Housing will also be repaired with Fiberglass and reinforced with a Steel Metal Plate on the exterior.

IMG_2426.JPG.1cf76eee3e16f006181238b34daec07e.JPG Reinforcement Plate

 

 

 

.IMG_2438.JPG.234585b321c0c537f8847469dd0fa574.JPGAfter Repair and Painting

 

Found the Evaporator Outlet cracked 

 IMG_2422.JPG.ece8c3780b83e311ea1b8ad251470e61.JPG

 

Making Paper Template for Reinforcement Section for Outlet

IMG_2424.JPG.521321e05fc01c90c5d99b66aa88ce4e.JPG  Paper Template

 

 

Cutting 16 gauge Metal for  Reinforcement Section with Shears

IMG_2433.JPG.57502d562852faf5ac037d04b51ff21a.JPG

 

 

 Reinforcement  Finished

IMG_E2427.JPG.5bce04fd814d193aeac84fffcfd36b85.JPG

 

 

r

 

Test fitting of Reinforcement Section in Housing

IMG_2429.JPG.ec8dab3562d7b4af9fb7a934143cf8b6.JPG Reinforcement  was later fiberglass laminated to the interior in housing.  Exterior was also laminated to repair broken sections,

 

l

 

IMG_2437.JPG.4f6b1ba3acd3435fe95df69227202e2a.JPG  New  Firewall Mount finished.

 

The Heater Box is normally attached to the Cowl Inlet Vent with Four Small Screws.   I decided to mount the Heater Box by a different  method.

IMG_2440.JPG.e8018719cf7ffada489e4ab49d4284e6.JPG  Instead of the screws, I made a Right Angle

Bracket that would support the Heater Box from the Top  of the Cowl Cold Air Inlet.  Two Threaded 10-32 Rods would be suspended from that bracket.  The rods would go through another bracket

attached to the Heater Box Housing.   Two nuts on the rods were be tigntened till they supported the Heater Box to the Cowl Inlet.  This similar hanging mount was utilized on 64 to 70 Ford Mustangs Heater Boxes.

IMG_2441.JPG.fea7283c9c1e34a45d260fc1086136f6.JPG

Top View of the Heater Box Mounts.  Normally, the Cold Inlet Vent is covered by a Sheet Metal Cover.

 

Note- To tighten the two Mounting Rod Nuts, the Duct Door made be in "Open" Position to access the nuts.

 

Both Heater and Evaporator Cores were  cleaned with AC Condensor and Evaporator cleaner.  Cleaning removes grim and mildew from the Aluminum Fins.

IMG_E2442.JPG.63b4454dc509067347b152ed6607e6ff.JPGThe Foaming Action cleans the cores.

 

IMG_2444.JPG.21b6a03ad3e89bd3e214c749e65cb741.JPG  All Cleaned.

 

The Heat Box Completely Disassembled.

IMG_2491.JPG.ac768bcd21b8b22d55e163e6851af518.JPG

 

 

IMG_2448.JPG.558fd622ab481d6da3320e7ec2e589a0.JPG

 

Heater Fan Unit and Evaporator Unit attached together.

 

IMG_2515.JPG.89ba72babc29d35d1e910855ee560c4f.JPG

 

Both Heater Box and AC Evaporator attached to Firewall and Cowl Vent.

 

AC Control (mounted on left side of Console Panel

IMG_2519.JPG.c1638dd4f00d99d38a69fc8c72507a82.JPG   Was Touched up with a  Brush and Chrome Silver Paint.

 

IMG_2528.JPG.0bc929dd85d5107df935f0f7b871bff4.JPG  Finished off with Clear Spray

 

Next-Dashboard Installation

 

 

 

IMG_E2427.JPG

 

 

 

 

IMG_2433.JPG

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Lookin' good! Those "stock" units never really worked well, especially by today's standards.  The condenser relies on a drop in pressure between the fan and the condenser to pull air across it.  As such, it won't work well if there are ANY air leaks (gaps, cracks, etc.) between the fan and condenser. Additionally the coil is an old school inefficient design AND parts are difficult if not impossible to find.  Because of all that, I installed a Vintage Air Gen II Mini system and couldn't be happier with it. Anyway, just and FYI.  I am sure Hawaii is at least as hot and humid as Houston so you will appreciate a strong air conditioner as much as I do.  

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Sorry for the delay in posting but couple of unforeseen problems came up.   I was planning to go over the installation of my Reconditioned Dash Board but could not find the SEM Products Textured Dash Board Spray Paint on the island.  Since Federal Express and UPS won't ship Pressurized Containers, my Spray Paint would have to come by Boat.   That trip would two to three weeks so I went to another item to restore.

 

Front Bucket Seats Restore

    Both Left and Right Seats had lot of wear so probably would go Restoring them in Leather.   First  Step was to Disassembly to check the internal condition of the seats.

 

IMG_2559.JPG.9082f761776e91e8e3473931b2a4d493.JPG Removing the seat coats just requires removal of the Hog Rings that hold the covers on.

 

IMG_E2575.JPG.60e944a6fd35addfaf15ead74d5a683f.JPG Sand Blasting Seat Frame and Back

 

They put a Thin Clear Plastic Sheeting over the Seat Foam to make it easier to "slip" the

new Seat Cover over the Foam.  It can be replaced with any real Thin Plastic Sheeting(like

the kind from Dry Cleaning Shops).

 IMG_E2571.JPG.a5b8ad7af4e2dcd1ef69f31080544177.JPG

 

 

IMG_2562.JPG.8b4807ec816b4a52d1ddfb201391abc3.JPG

Both Seats had Broken Seat Support Straps( located under the foam seat cushion).

 

If you plan to repair the seats, you need to save the Metal Support Wires that hold the seat covers to the frame as they might not come with new seat covers.

IMG_2565.JPG.ed8f7f6de9cddccbf67955acee57a599.JPG

 

I used Webbed Belts from Ratcheting Cargo Straps to replace the Broken Straps.

IMG_2577.JPG.3a4ccb2096bbe83b6d86aeee88669a70.JPG

Loop the Cargo Straps around the Old Factory Strap Connectors .   Hot Glue is used between the Folds to provide

additional strength.   A 1/4 Air Riveter is used to install the 1/4 rivet to secure the webbing tightly too.  Solid Aluminum Rivets can be utilized.

 

IMG_2578.JPG.5ffc0e9b29d0d098f007940f396b47b4.JPG  Close Up View of Repaired Strap

 

Both Seat Frames were sandblasted and painted with Black Urethane Paint.

IMG_2580.JPG.2a2ab236fac5c516fcec68683c716f8d.JPG

 

Seat Cushion Straps installed.

IMG_2579.JPG.824cf07e183897f85a619091c62aa92e.JPG

Seat Cushions installed awaiting Seat Covers.

 

Pricing both Vinyl and Leather Seat Covers on Amazon and Ebay came out to $400+ for Vinyl and about $700

for Leather Seat Covers.   I decided to wait and possibly look for Junk Yard or Craigslist for   a Pair of fBucket Seats.

 

Next-Exhaust System

    This should be interesting as It will be the First Time that I will Tig Weld and Weld Stainless Steel Exhaust.  Wish me Luck!

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Do yourself a favor, 

 

but the Inteiror Innovations and be done with it. I was held up on the leather and coat… pulled the trigger and LOVE the fit and finish for the price. It was not a hard process either! 
 

Long time follower and your work is top notch. I tried to hunt online for months for bucket seats, tried a few from other cars and they just didn’t look / fit right. So I overhauled my OEM seats! 

 

 

E94ECF20-4DB3-49C5-9C95-F4B609BEA95C.jpeg

B35B97C4-83EF-4275-8F39-007064C5A3AC.jpeg

CE6DB77F-EB04-4E68-8743-9FE6258A77F6.jpeg

2D40C405-1405-42F6-B735-D6482A8A02F5.jpeg

A562DB07-1ADD-4A6F-99E6-8632CD820906.jpeg

113AB909-B6B4-4FBB-9C34-6175AF6E33CA.jpeg

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