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Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks,  Guys

     After getting the Air Compressor parts, I did a complete overhaul on the FS Curtis D96A compressor pump.



Replaced Intake and Exhaust Valves, new Head Gasket, new Piston Rings and new Con Rod Bearings.


After the Compressor was repaired, The Greddy Rocket Bunny Flares were installed.  On Ebay, Z Spec Design had their Rocket Bunny

Kit Installation kit for $90.



These tools were used to install the Flares.



The Cleco  Clamps were utilized to hold the Flares in place while drilling.


The Drill drilled the mounting holes into the Flares.   Also, it drilled the Body side for the Threaded Nutserts.

IMG_1355.JPG.fa79bd668a4501f2bfaaa229428472b3.JPG Drilling the Flare


IMG_1356.JPG.3128fd8bfa0bdd8b07a29f06d90c9821.JPG Drilling Body for Nutserts.


I added a 11" extensions of 1" square tubing to the Nut Setter( lengthening its arms gave it additional leverage).

IMG_1407.JPG.404ee0545fec7e9eafe83a72a802d5e9.JPG  IMG_1357.JPG.388900ba12a7221a460fac4e319874a0.JPG

IMG_1358.JPG.e6fd2c96f4858ad15a66f556f6b46736.JPG Threaded Nut installed.


I recommend all insets be rethreaded.  Sometimes the inserts are distorted during installation.



IMG_1363.JPG.6c7c1cb8f18ba8fc8a80591c888852c3.JPG    Installed


The Paint and Materials for this car was about $2000(Jobber Cost).  Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 Poyurethane paint(Basecoat) and CC2000 Clear Coat were used.   I also used the 3M TRiZ Sanding system which consists of P1000, 1500 and P3000 Velco Sandpaper was utilized too.  This method reduced the polishing times drastically.













Next thing to do:   Installing Front and rear Suspension on the car.  Happy Fourth of July Holiday to everyone!!


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  • 2 weeks later...

  I had planned to assemble the Front and Rear Suspension to the Z but decided to work on the interior parts first.

2062227389_IMG_1424(1).JPG.0db532e37f80bf65a341bbef06dbab57.JPG   Door Glass Regulator was cleaned and lubricated.


1559139890_IMG_1421(1).JPG.43e778e01aad5b27cfd7a738e2336ce3.JPG   The Door Glass had a lot of Water Spots from being parked outside.


These Water Spots were removed with #000 Steel Wool and Hand Rubbing Compound.

1588012735_IMG_E1417(1).JPG.7080e0ea4f871abace3a2df3e995af82.JPG Rub in a Circular Pattern to remove all the spots.


1742009712_IMG_1416(1).JPG.7d970678cf1bf9f13391017802c0d926.JPG   Looked like Brand New Door Glass.


IMG_1415.JPG.6ac4ea3b76ec3c4a5e01da04afef5cd7.JPG   Before  Disassembly and Rebuild.


Tools used to rebuild the Quarter Glass: Plastic Glass Tool. Rubber Hammer. Tire Lube Brush. and 1/8" Nylon Rope.



One area of reassembly was the 1/4 Window Glass Frame.   Because of the New Weather Stripping. squeezing the Frame together posed a

problem.   This was solved by wrapping a 1/8" Nylon Rope around the frame and 3/8" x 6" Bolt.   Twisting the bolt between the rope will cause the rope to get tighter and tighter.   This action will squeeze the frame together and allow the installation of the frame screws.



Now, check the corner of the 1/4 frame with the long ends.

IMG_1469.JPG.bcac88d60d2f05ff324b818c05352727.JPG  Note-A strip of Rubber added to the Frame.  This Rubber Strip fills the gap so the Outer Weather Stripping Gasket does not leak.   Check the Old OEM weather stripping.  It

probably has a similar rubber strip that is not included with the replacement weather stripping.


The Outer !/4 Glass Weather stripping was attached with Contact Cement ,  Use a Acid brush to apply the Glue.   Apply the Contact Cement to Both Sides (gasket and the Frame).   Make to allow the glue to dry for 10 to 15 minutes before sticking them together.



Wrap the1/8" Nylon Rope tightly again around the Weather Stripping and then knot it so it holds till the cement dries.


Installation of the Assembled  1/4 Glass on the car usually requires two persons.  As the Glass must be pushed both rearward into the body and

inward to attach the mounting screws.

IMG_1473.JPG.90ba91f4640d7b3bab7a463f1062103d.JPG  Installation Complete.


The 1/4 Glass Frame was painted with Sem Products Trim Paint Black to match the Race Car Theme.







In this case, the Bumper Guard and Bumper Rubber Strips Holes were going to be welded closed to provide a more Clean Look.



!/8" Steel Plugs were cut and fitted into the holes before welded.



IMG_1440.JPG.24b04957c5b5535587b4c36301e73958.JPG  Welded Holes after Grinding


IMG_1458.JPG.248349598093bfd798e0ab4b63d5afe2.JPG Bumper Parts Poly Urethane Primered.




Single Stage Black Polyurethane Paint was used to paint the Bumper Parts.


Bumper Installed on car 

IMG_E1486.JPG.c7e6f09b95aa26a2d7734a2818ac7c02.JPG Side View


IMG_E1487.JPG.782615795b342f1e3c05852465a4f4dd.JPG   Center View






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EF Ian, 

      Yes, In the Old Days, rechroming bumpers was a common procedure.   But now days because of the toxic byproducts and mostly the cost,  only limited  automotive chroming is done.   You can also use a a torch and braze the holes.  Then grind it smooth with 24 grit paper.  The rechromers will first apply copper plating then chrome plate it.  I would have powercoated the bumper but the center section would not fit in my small oven.   PowderCoating  powder to do this bumper would cost only about $13.

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  • 2 weeks later...

   My Weather Stripping Kit from Zdepot arrived just in time.  It costed about $300 but was high

quality and fitment was good.



IMG_1457.JPG.7a24e58e13abc205616d8a8a9c5b06d5.JPG  kit parts list


  The Hatch Weather Stripping was installed with 3M Super Weather Stripping Adhesive.  I found

the older yellow version to hold better than the newer Black Version.


Note-Be sure to let the adhesive to dry(5 - 10 minutes) or until "tacky".   Then hold both together for

at an hour.   I used masking tape and duct tape.

IMG_1545.JPG.fcb4a85db3f928077bbb1bc408807cfb.JPG on weather stripping


IMG_1541.JPG.7e8620556bff31d3defc71f3b8920fd3.JPG  on body edge then hold together.







   When installing New Replacement Door Weather Stripping, if you having trouble closing the door even after

adjustment, you try this tip.   I rigged up a 1/8" steel cable connected to the inside seat belt mounting

hole.   Put a Turn Buckle in between the mount and cable.   The other end was attached to the latch side of the door.   A 3/4" x 2" board was utilized inside of the door to prevent damage to door.  


The operation is simple-Turn the Turn Buckle to shorten the cable.  This will force the door

to squeeze the weather stripping tight.   Remember to remove the latch plate on the quarter

panel otherwise maximum force will not be achieved.  The weather stripping must be squeezed a lot to compensate

for the"rebound factor".

 293267515_IMG_1504(1).JPG.3913c87fa6223e55d60a6d341cca9ea9.JPG seat belt mount side

IMG_1499.JPG.7988654350e130b39e20adc9bda4a5f0.JPG  door anchor side of cable-note board inside the door



 Another tip- To cut the excessive door weather stripping, a 4 1/2" right angle grinder with a

1/32" cutoff wheel was used because the door weather stripping contains a metal webbing



IMG_1510.JPG.93c1f51879a31ac6a9f671af14d2baf5.JPG cross section of door weather stripping


Another tip:   When Powder Coating. I sometimes use a piece of cardboard to hold screw and bolts 

while sandblasting.

IMG_1511.JPG.2e827b21e81bb60b7ba6f20a49e1ea87.JPG Next to the parts, their location was written to aid

in assembly.

To hang screws, bolts and washers while baking the powder coat, .030 Stainless Aircraft Safety Wire

is used.




This zig zag type of hanger is utilized to keep parts apart when baking.


Rethreading of all Powder Coated items is necessary as the Powder Coating will add additional

material to them.



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I'm interested to know how the Precision weatherstripping has worked out for you since these strips are well documented to have issues.

  • Too much silicone in the rubber makes the adhesive not stick to it
  • Too thick... Rear hatch and doors don't close flush
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idiot280,   I don't think the Precision Weatherstripping is made with Silicone in it.   But they probably coated their rubber molds with silicone for easy removal of the weather stripping.   I always wipe the areas down where the adhesive is going with lacquer thinner before glueing.

    The Precision Weatherstripping is well made but is "Fatter" than the original 240z one.   So you might have readjust your door and hatch

latches to allow them to close.  The rubber will eventually wear in.  Or if you can not wait for it to wear in, construct a similar "pull cable"  that I made for the doors and put heavy weight on the hatch.  But remember to remove the latches so they can compress the rubber more.

.   Also, if you still have problems with the weather stripping  not sticking, use clamps or similar tools to hold the rubber down.   Especially around the corners, the adhesive on the rubber must contact the adhesive on the body.  I always check

this by tugging on the rubber after an a hour after application.  If rubber loose, glue and clamp down again.


I hope this information helps you.


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  • 3 weeks later...

"Lost Part"

     I somehow lost one of the Hoods Accessory Door Spring Latch.   So I was forced to create one using the other one to copy from.

IMG_1523.JPG.fcd53fec4fa2901484ea2ee50c4debdb.JPG Original, the Copy and Template

It was constructed from sheet metal using pliers and a drill.

IMG_1529.JPG.b5c25a1c22564292b0275687106013e9.JPG  Test Fitted then to be Painted to match.

Restoring Damages Masonite and Plastic Interior Panels

IMG_1554.JPG.e37989f03259d7f8c2a8b999d4d8c0d5.JPG cracked Masonite Panel


1301071757_IMG_1555(1).JPG.fdb119235cd1aa1792e6c71f03cea34c.JPG IMG_1528.JPG.d1f126da0f16ea4d95ce7b0e3a2b3993.JPG  Fiberflex Rods and Fiberglass Screen Window

Mesh were used for these type of repairs.

IMG_1556.JPG.056da9b8518d2a1a78d809eaa25f5f56.JPG  Mesh with plastic melted over it created a strong




One  Masonite panel was missing a large section so I glued a piece of  .0025" Aluminum Sheet

to fill in the missing area.   Fast Drying Epoxy did the job.



Vise grips held the patch in place until the Epoxy cured.


Note- The hole in the panel is for Radio Speakers.

Plastic Interior Panel Repair

IMG_1586.JPG.ef54db81cc906373687f370387bac9a5.JPG Big crack in Rear Plastic Panel



The Crack was aligned then "tack welded" with the Plastic welder.  On the other side, Stainless Steel Mesh was covered with FiberFlex plastic rods to provide a study backing.   Then,  the otherside  of the crack was gone over completely with FiberFlex rods too.


Painted with SEM TEXTURE Black paint and prep for painting.



IMG_1598.JPG.7e1da0957725434428de52971a862811.JPG    Plastic Interior Panels painted.


IMG_1604.JPG.95d507667903b6d64c2fc0a8fc8bfa77.JPG Console paintedIMG_1612.JPG.79320ed2084312a77837536b6674750a.JPG


                                                                                                                            Closeup of Hand Painted  Console Switch Lettering                                                                           



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  • 3 weeks later...

Mounting Rocket Bunny Rear Soiler

   The Rocket Bunny Body Kit does not come with any instructions for installation of its components.   So the builder has to come up with

his own methods of installation.    The rear spoiler is no exception.   I decided to mount the spoiler by fabricating Two mount plates that were

installed inside of the spoiler.

1701466779_IMG_1614(1).JPG.00cf338aa5ccca4a19b46b7b4b39303c.JPG   Each mount consisted of Two 5mm x .8 x 16mm bolts that were tack welded to

a 1/2" x  3" long 16 gauge sheet metal plate.   The mounts were mounted on the both side edges of the hatch.   The existing hatch edge was

1/8" thick already and strong enough to hold the spoiler on.


IMG_1615.JPG.69a2732ebd496d99cd45cb51ed41a5d2.JPG   Test fitting the mounts


Create a cardboard template of mount to make sure the mount would fit inside of the spoiler.



I determined that  a 1" hole drilled in the bottom of the spoiler would sufficient for installation of the mount and not be "too large".

The  bolt holes were also drilled at this time using the template.


Using a long nose plier and  a little manipulation, the mounts were installed in the spoiler.


 Fibeglass resin and cloth were used to hold the mounts to the inside of the spoiler.   Installing the two mounting nuts would hold the mounts in place until the fiberglass cured.

942030382_IMG_1625(1).JPG.2f96336e0bbff75e3e002c6e87366446.JPG  Note-Inner Single Bolt Spoiler Mount


Two Black Plastic 1" caps from Lowes were a perfect fit to seal the holes.   I also added two 5mm bolts closed to the middle of the spoiler for

added support.


Restoring the Rear Tail Light Assemblies

  A picture of the "Before" restoration of the Tail Light Assemblies.


Note: dull finish, dents  and chips.



The Lens was polished with buffing wheel and chips were filled in with epoxy.

Krylon "Lookinh Glass" spray paint  was utilized to provide the "Chrome Like" twin parallel bars of the lens.





To give the Tail Light Assemblies  additional "POP", Polyurethane Clear was sprayed over the lens.



Tail Light Assemblies installed.



Spoiler Installed.





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  • 4 weeks later...

  Sorry for not posting for awhile,   I had some home repairs to do before the end of Summer.

   Undercarriage Work:

       Disassembled and cleaned then lubed and reassembled the steering components.

IMG_E1668.JPG.e1e60b46f29cd7a8fa34eb233efa44fa.JPG     Disassembly, inspection and relubed


IMG_1673.JPG.82b73ef54d3a5943d13a760327d89c78.JPG All parts were painted with Black Single Stage Urethane paint




416885854_IMG_1674(1).JPG.4893b8b331cb1491811c502680748c93.JPG  The Gas Pedal Bracket was left as it depending on LS Electronic Pedal Assembly.


Brake, Vent and Fuel Lines

849547865_IMG_1682(1).JPG.1c4451fe1241d18c3233a8569476749c.JPG All Lines were wire brushed, primed and paint with Single Stage Silver Paint.


One Part of the Drivetrain Tunnel was the Hand Brake Mechanism which was missing its Dust Cover Rubber Cap.   I found a !" chair leg

plastic cap from the local hardware store that fit perfectly to seal the Hand Brake Swivel Ball grease in.

1066332467_IMG_1689(1).JPG.4707c15b17bd4cee9503332f00a93f00.JPG 767876008_IMG_1690(1).JPG.ed4246acaf91e98a0b1b95d19be58655.JPG  Cap with hole cut on top


Front Disc Brakes Modifications

     My WILWOOD 300mm Rotors and Four Piston Calipers arrived in time for installation.

1723437426_IMG_1694(1).JPG.26313e5fef751346487b455405f2423a.JPG  From Techno Toy for about $1200


1539228283_IMG_1711(1).JPG.ab40abd607e8920f6706e0f16d03d063.JPG   1722321703_IMG_1712(1).JPG.6b25442aa82c31cff817d2895fe8c695.JPG


926720105_IMG_1717(1).JPG.f9808780d58ec0a94cd79611ced83ee2.JPG  240309141_IMG_1716(1).JPG.110c8b7f77934c6f9c8a39480b9e4873.JPG  


149974822_IMG_1718(1).JPG.9b392adb7cf3edd3728eb23fef323fc1.JPG  IMG_1720.JPG.7a7824c819d6b1cad02ecf943c2e5f06.JPG comes with braided stainless steel lines.

  I replaced the Master Cylinder Assembly with another 7/8" one from ZDEPOT.   OEM master cylinder assemblies were only available for about $300 as compared to ZDEPOT for $100.   But the output brake lines must be bend to fit for ZDEPOT one.



                                  ZDEPOT                                                                   OEM   Master Cylinder


1480586821_IMG_1706(1).JPG.09040dae241800c3fcaaab8bfe01c259.JPG  Note- Difference in Outlet Fittings in both assemblies


IMG_1708.JPG.d0210ec39bc63986b56d6b7ceb650d62.JPG   Also Note-Differences in Reservoir positions 



5999621_IMG_1693(1).JPG.a97db834b81165853520d0874f25e9c6.JPG   New Brake, Vent and Fuel Clamps were fabricated for the drivetrain tunnel section.




Next thing to work on will be the Fuel Tank  modified for In-Tank Electric Fuel Pump.



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  • 3 weeks later...

I was fortunate to come across a Great Deal.   I sold my "old" sandblast cabinet for $350 then upgraded to Bigger One for only $150 more.

IMG_1709.JPG.3a6e783dd0112f607eb7d2e676728d69.JPG  This cabinet is twice as large and has top and side access doors.  Plus it also came with a 4 foot high dust vacuum.


Fuel Tank Modifications:

   My Fuel Tank was really rusty inside and had a lot of large dents on its bottom.IMG_1724.JPG.ba62946f81bba54fd26b86da5553be4f.JPG 


IMG_1726.JPG.b3ddbb996f27a43f56869efcea0be3ef.JPGNote-Remember the Pads positions.


IMG_1734.JPG.b93e458d4639f28baf6fbf42f4bcec95.JPG  After Blasting, the dents were more visible.


The only way to remove most of the large dents was to cut open the top of the tank and push the dents out.  This method would  however allow for sand blasting of the inside of the tank.

IMG_1737.JPG.f61506cff2570e75404cf0922e454d6e.JPG  After cutting the tank, a patch was created to repair this area.


IMG_1770.JPG.80e209388f8b0631a8b9cf790bcf80b7.JPG  Visegrips and Cleco Pins hold patch.




199182815_IMG_1753(1).JPG.57bf65d14bbbd8a63e47f9479c1e2d33.JPG  getting ready to weld



All the mig welds were brazed over to further prevent tank leaks.

IMG_1782.JPG.89b9792a8dc402d690a18814fc9d734b.JPG after Brazing.


The welds were checked by applying 2 PSI of Air while spraying a Soapy Water.



IMG_1776.JPG.f057e7f90bf6d1b0f63e001b186b3bf4.JPG    Leaks are easily found with this method.


KBS TanK Sealer Kit is an additional step to further prevent tank leakage and provide corrosion protection.'  This sealer covers the entire interior of the fuel tank.   It is also one of the few tank sealers that is not effected by ethanol fuel.

Cost about $80 from local industrial hardware store.




IMG_1819.JPG.7c06dddd94950caa56d95973a7eab286.JPG Bottom of tank after KBS Sealer install


IMG_1815.JPG.05efa1e4ff085c67299a387fed154987.JPG  Upper side 


The KBS Sealer was also applied on the exterior welds for additional sealing.





I borrowed a Snap On Tools Smoke Machine.   This machine is used to check for leaks in automotive fuel and vapor systems.



IMG_1842.JPG.8b7d2ff153c5ec9b1132eeb3218e6613.JPG  All openings first plugged up.


IMG_1841.JPG.774a59c8a66a476077153bc7f559fedc.JPG  Then, Smoke is pumped in and for any smoke leaking.


The Fuel Tank passed the Smoke Test so painting the exterior was next.

1331827838_IMG_1846(1).JPG.cda69d167d97fcf82057a23562158a97.JPG  Epoxy Urethane Primer was applied.


IMG_1863.JPG.d38cc93320a174f685c7e231b35397eb.JPG  Bottom View-after Urethane Black painting.




 IMG_1868.JPG.63915105c5d0691b5e0fdbc8bcec322c.JPG  Side View


Holley #19-350 EFI Fuel In-Tank Pump( from Amazon $325) was selected for the task.



1089270860_IMG_1752(1).JPG.f1648d250be40505171582e34087fdc7.JPG   It is a very compact and well build unit.


Next- Fuel Pump Installation and Fuel Sender Modifications


                                                                     Happy Halloween!!!!





 Got this borescope from Amazon for about $30.  It also can take very good pics too.





IMG_1786 (1).JPG  The Fuel Pump Slump was constructed out of sheet metal and  brazed to the tank bottom.  Note the maze shape protects pump from excessive fuel movement.

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