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ANOTHER Datsun Z/LS3/T56 Swap Thread

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I managed to finish the exhaust.  I was able to fit two small Vibrant resonators...in the hopes of the car not being too horribly loud whenever I get it running.


There are a few things in the result I am not thrilled about and wish I had done differently, but mainly I am tired of purging and welding stainless tube, so I am living with it.  











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35 minutes ago, fusion said:

Question about shifter placement.  So since the Magnum trans moves the shifter location forward, what are your plans for the center console?


Also, have you seen this?  https://motoiq.com/watch-tremec-t-56-magnum-f-world-premiere-install-and-test/


Well, my car is going to be a stripped down track car....it won't have a center console...so that won't be a problem in my case.


As far as the Tremec T56 F....all I can say is "damn".  Had I known about that, I would definitely have used one of them.  But now, I have already relocated the shifter hole in the tranny tunnel, and of course I am not going to swap transmissions anyway, so I am locked in.  For my purposes it really isn't a big deal.

Edited by Ironhead
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

The last couple of weeks I have just been working on getting electrical components installed and building wiring harnesses.  As with most things, it is proving more time consuming than I anticipated.


This board with the ECU and PDM will go on the passenger side inner firewall.  The relay and circuit breaker will supply power to the electric power steering.  The PDM is designed to replace typical relays, fuses, and circuit breakers, but the electric power steering has such high power demand that I thought it made more sense to wiring it separately.  The relay has 80 amp capacity, and the circuit breaker is 60 amp.  I wasn't sure exactly how much juice the power steering required, but I found that most OEM applications using it are protected by a 60 amp fuse, so I think (hope) this will be adequate.  The electric power steering +12V connections are 10 gauge wire.




The battery cable incorporates a 200 amp circuit breaker, as a last ditch line of defense in case of some catastrophic short circuit.  From my reading, using any lower amp rating than that is likely to trip when starting the car.




I got most of the dash controls installed.  The 15 button panel talks to the PDM via CAN bus, and only requires 4 wires to do so, rather than the usual plethora of wires required on a dash.  Pretty much all of the controls will be via these buttons, including ignition on, starter....everything.  It greatly simplifies wiring and provides much greater flexibility, since all the functions can be programmed with a laptop.


The dash display will also be on the CAN, as well as the ECU, so the dash can display any engine parameters that the ECU receives without requiring additional wiring.  This includes engine speed, vehicle speed, water temp, oil pressure, AFR, etc.  I am going to add fuel pressure, engine oil temp, diff oil temp, and fuel level, so these circuits will require their own wiring input into the dash.


The other controls are power steering assist level, brake bias, coolant flow for the defroster, and battery shut off.  I might install a fuel level gauge independent of the digital dash, not sure yet. 








Edited by Ironhead
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9 hours ago, idahoskiguy said:

Without a doubt the most amazing Zcar/LSx build I have seen. The attention to detail and the craftsmanship are top level.

Thank you for taking the time and effort to share your build.


Thanks Skiguy, very kind of you!

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Have to agree with that.




If I was doing my build now I'd definitely run a PDM. As it is I am considering re doing the interior and accessory fuse box with a PDM 15, just not sure if its worth it for just that when the main ECU and engine parts wont be using it. I do not wish to re do my mil spec interior harness for the ECU because its too expensive.


You also made me think I too should install a circuit breaker by the battery.

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Thanks Ian...


Thus far I would say there is really no downside to the PDM, except that you have to pay for one.  I haven't had the opportunity yet to fully explore the things it can do, just because the whole damn car pretty much has to be wired in order to do so.  But, it is definitely very compact and very clean/simple to wire.


I really wanted to get by with the PDM15, but even on a fairly simple car like mine it would be impossible to make it work.  Both the PDM15 and PDM30 have the same number of 20 amp outputs(eight), but the PDM15 only has seven 8-amp outputs, whereas the PDM30 has 22.  I was just wiring the rear part of the car today, and between turn signals, running lights, brake lights, backup lights, diff cooler pump, and diff cooler fans, that is seven 8-amp outputs right there...and I haven't even started on engine/interior/headlights/cooling fans, etc.  The radiator fans require two 20-amp outputs all by themselves, the fuel pump a 20 amp, and I am not sure yet on the headlights...but you see my point.  You run out very quickly and I wanted to have some expansion room left in the system.  I think the PDM15 would really only work on a formula car or something in that mold with a very simple electrical system, or just in a partial usage like you describe.


You can combine them...like use three 8-amp outputs to make a 24 amp, but you cannot combine the differing types...like use an 8 and 20 to make a 28.  Motec said that would fry the 8 amp channel.


I agree with your assessment though.  Once the car is wired, and everything working, no way in hell would I go back and redo it.  Besides, if you mixed the PDM with a variety of traditional relays and fuses, to some extent I think it would defeat the purpose.

Edited by Ironhead
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Trying to force some order out of the mess:




The engine wiring harness will go through the firewall via a 61 pin bulkhead connector.  This actually turned out to be the perfect size for the LS3, handles all the wiring for the engine, additional gauge sensors, etc without single pin left over.   The front lighting and wiring for the radiator fans will go through a second much smaller connector.


The O2 sensors and transmission wiring will go through a small connector in the trans tunnel.  Just seemed more direct.


I can say wiring one of these large shell connectors is not something you want to do if you are distracted....it really takes some concentration not to screw it up.


Thanks for looking.







Edited by Ironhead
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16 minutes ago, LLave said:

That is amazing. What a tidy looking connector. When I first read 61 pin, I thought to myself, wow this might be overkill.. Nope. Just the right amount. So many wires these days. 


I was surprised as well.  You have a little bit of flexibility, because a lot of the wires....like the power to the injectors...and the power/ground to the coils....start with just one wire and splice into eight.  If you have too few or too many pins in the connector (they only come in limited sizes) you can chose to have the splice either before or after the firewall.  Believe it or not, I had to keep all the splices after the connector or 61 pin would have been much too small.


There are a lot of wires.  The coils use 32 by themselves....you need seven (six plus a shield drain) for the electric throttle control....16 for the injectors....it adds up quickly.

Edited by Ironhead
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