1971 240z ITB install

[DuffyMahoney]

On 7/22/2021 at 5:41 AM, rossman said:

Looking good!  I have your original one, might have sell it and get this one :).  There is more to it than laser cutting, right? The shape appears like it would have to be milled or casted.  When do you expect to start selling them?

I don't expect to sell them.  My plan is 5 axis and fancy.  

[rossman]

8 hours ago, DuffyMahoney said:

I don't expect to sell them.  My plan is 5 axis and fancy.  

Yep, understood. It could be printed fairly easy, maybe in ultem or some other high temp plastic. Protolabs could give you a quick online quote. You'd loose the "cool" factor though!

[DuffyMahoney]

Lots of tuning to go. But she is alive. 

[DuffyMahoney]

On 7/23/2021 at 5:21 PM, rossman said:

Yep, understood. It could be printed fairly easy, maybe in ultem or some other high temp plastic. Protolabs could give you a quick online quote. You'd loose the "cool" factor though!

3D printing is more for test fitment.  I have yet to see any real world parts that hold up.  

[clarkspeed]

On 7/26/2021 at 4:40 PM, DuffyMahoney said:

3D printing is more for test fitment.  I have yet to see any real world parts that hold up.  

Depends on what material you print and where it I used. A good home printer can run carbon-nylon good for up to 500 degree F. Pro shops can print carbon polymers just as good as OEM intakes. And if you have the money, you can print aluminum or more. I saw a pic of a $5000 3d printed inconel exhaust last week.

[rossman]

1 hour ago, clarkspeed said:

Depends on what material you print and where it I used. A good home printer can run carbon-nylon good for up to 500 degree F. Pro shops can print carbon polymers just as good as OEM intakes. And if you have the money, you can print aluminum or more. I saw a pic of a $5000 3d printed inconel exhaust last week.

Yep, I wasn't going to bring it up since I didn't want to derail the thread but...I have a printer in my lab at work that will print Ultem plastic that has a glass transition temperature of over 400F. Printing in metal tends to be much more expensive than machining, but if it's something that cannot be easily machined (which this can) or requires multiple processes to produce (which this does not) then all of a sudden printing metal can make sense.

Edited July 28, 2021 by rossman

[calZ]

Could also just do some lost PLA casting. That would be perfect for a part like this that doesn't have to be perfect to the thousandth. If you've got the money, though, nothing beats the bling of machined parts. 

[DuffyMahoney]

12 hours ago, calZ said:

Could also just do some lost PLA casting. That would be perfect for a part like this that doesn't have to be perfect to the thousandth. If you've got the money, though, nothing beats the bling of machined parts. 

I am not even paying for the 5 axis cut! A buddy owes me a favor.  

[calZ]

Buddies with CNC mills are the best kind of buddies. 

[DuffyMahoney]

I figured out all my issues. My fancy no contact tps sensor has this goofy huge 0 volt rest area. I had it clocked, but from 0-75% throttle the tps didn’t change at all. Then 75%-100% throttle it would move. 

So it would bounce .00-.15 volts and the ecu thought that was like 0-10% throttle. 

So clocked it 90 degrees. Starts around 2volts and goes to 4.3 volts. It’s super happy. Somehow this took forever to figure out. 

[DuffyMahoney]

Well the day has finally come to use a heat shield. This is the one that came with my vintage SK ITB setup. How it installs originally didn’t protect my wiring to the firewall enough. So I shifted it down 2” and then slotted it. I hate the look of sheilds, but it was time.

 

 

Edited August 15, 2021 by DuffyMahoney

[rossman]

It sux to have to cover up that beautiful header but overall your setup still looks amazing. 

[madkaw]

Isn’t that a ceramic coated header? They do a great job to control heat . I don’t run a heat shield with my N42 . 

[DuffyMahoney]

On 8/15/2021 at 12:20 PM, madkaw said:

Isn’t that a ceramic coated header? They do a great job to control heat . I don’t run a heat shield with my N42 . 

I decided to put the wiring down below, closer to the header:) 

[DuffyMahoney]

My 2nd set of vintage SK throttles are just about done. Only think left is to come up with a tps solution. They are a gift to my 3.1L engine builder Andrew.

Edited August 18, 2021 by DuffyMahoney

[DuffyMahoney]

I think I have all my kinks worked out. Finally time to road tune. 

[DuffyMahoney]

A little update on my ITB build.  In the middle of this build I decided to buy a historic building and renovate it, then have my first child, so everything got pushed to the back. I am finally finding time to work on it all again.  

 

I think one of my biggest issues was voltage from my old alternator, upgrading that has made everything more happy.  

 

Well finally got my osgiken clutch out and went with a stage 1 from exedy with a lightened steel flywheel.  The osgiken was way too hard for me to street drive and my wife hated it.  It was poorly installed by me and it's a pretty racey clutch.  

 

I sent to Z car off to a guru.  Andrew Kazanis, he swapped the clutch, found my clunk (exhaust hitting during load) and change my rear main seal.  Then his buddy Matt finally fixed my passenger regulator.  Which hasn't worked in years.  I went with a repopped one.  Matt thinks my rear end is a little noisy, but Andrew can't hear it.  I cannot thank Andrew enough for all his help.  He is a friend and just an all around great guy.  

 

If I was to start this over, I would pick an ECU that someone in the area knows.  I think ITB is something I jumped into, without enough knowledge or money.  So many small issues popped up, and all stopped or slowed me down massively.  You really end up chasing your own tail a lot, trying to do all of this. A few on here and on facebook have helped a ton. Tioga, Richard Boyk, Rodney have helped so much.  I can't thank them all enough.  Maps, settings etc... Somehow they have completely different views on pretty much all of the maps, but all are very knowledgeable and all know a ton more then me.  It will be interesting as I road tune which maps/ settings I like more.  

 

Haltech is nicely made stuff, but I found their original software extremely hard to figure out.  They have since done a massive massive upgrade (NSP) and it's much easier to use now and much more intuitive.  Also tells you when settings and maps are in conflict.  Which is huge! I am getting pretty confidante and I think I have all the small ECU settings correct.  The ECU should start self tuning.  So time to drive her and get it running right.  I literally got stuck for months from one stupid box being checked, I couldn't get the idle right during cold starts! 

 

IAC or not.  I will most likely attempt to use IAC again.  I have it fully plumbed and wired, it's also a learning feature of the ecu, so it should be the best route for cold starts. I will turn it off after say 100 degrees, which the motor idles fine after that.  My hand throttle works, also using timing to help cold starts also helps a ton.  

 

Also don't rip out perfectly good jenvy throttles, for vintage SK throttles unless you are dumb:)

Edited April 17, 2022 by DuffyMahoney

[DuffyMahoney]

Well sadly my ported E31 head was in an engine shop fire. Luckily my 3.1L was pretty far away from the flames. Well lots of elbow grease and 4 hours in my vapor blasting cabinet and it looks as good as new!. Now time to have it put back together.

[DuffyMahoney]

Mostly smoke and just really dirty. 

[DuffyMahoney]

One of my issues so far with running is my injectors that fit nicely into the throttles are a V stream. So I believe they are just spraying on the walls. 
 

I am going to switch out to DeatschWerks 18U-00-0035-6. Single cone spray. They use the same connector. Hopefully I can get the correct orings to deal well. Tioga told me to do this in the start. I should have listened.