z mouse Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) Anyone have any experience buying parts ,or even hear of Silver project in Europe? Looking at their front and rear suspension parts. Edited June 16, 2020 by z mouse mis-spell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 I assume you're talking about these: https://silverproject.eu/front-lower-control-arm-adjustable-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z/?currency=USD They are cheaper then what's offered by about everyone else, and they look cheaper too. Why they went with some welded in tube and bushing is beyond me when everyone else goes with a heim joint. Unless you plain on doing a lot of very specific tuning and adjusting the length, you're eventually going find a specific length you want, and then you have a arm that basically the same as the stock arm except probably heavier. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 On the other hand, I think the fact they used a bushing is nice. I would rather buy these than ones with a heim since my car isn't a track car and I still care about the NVH. Being able to dial in the alignment perfectly while maintaining stockish vibration control is an option no one else really offers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z mouse Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 First,thanks for the replies. It's not a track car.Just trying to eliminate some of the darting.An alignment showed tow-in in the right rear. The problem has always been there and now new more aggressive tires has intensified the darting. So,just looking for more adjustment mainly in the rear. CalZ,what is NVH? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 NVH is Noise, Vibration, and Harshness. Basically how crappy it is to be in a vehicle while it's running and moving. Not the most important thing in a race car, and the MOST important thing in a luxury car. Doing things like solid mounting your drivetrain, switching from rubber to polyurathane bushings, using too stiff of springs in the suspension, all increase NVH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z mouse Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 Appreciate your input,Guess that makes my mind up,i'll order the Silver project parts. My 240 has all poly suspension except for the mustache bar and is ok for any NVH. It dawned on me that i put a solid diff mount on a few years ago. Didn't take long to remove that. So i see your point. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 If we're talking rear arms, I think these are what's being referenced: https://silverproject.eu/rear-control-arm-adjustable-arms-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z/ In which case, there are some design issues with them. Mainly, they'll cause binding in the strut (see the many threads on this site on custom rear arms). I'm also not stoked on the shear plate design they have between the outer bushings and the tubes, a bit concerned about buckling which would be exacerbated by bending loads from the ARB and stiction in the bushes. Plus, they cut a hole in the primary lateral load path... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 TERRIBLE design on those rears. A little refresher on flat plate control arms: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 I had heim joints on all 4 corners and it was quite tolerable. I found both my FWD cars had more NVH from poly engine mounts than any I would get from the suspension. It is a bit more darty, but that is expected taking out the slop. That kind of locking tube design though is not really good in these applications. They use them a lot on drift cars, but they tend to crack and loosen often. For a road car I'd rather stay with a more traditional style and take a bent tube over a stripped arm. The plate design is also concerning especially with there the load is. H arm styles are also not ideal as Leon states. Apex engineering makes a good RLCA from what I recall. The one I made served me well, but doing it again I would probably have made one like Jmortensen did with the toe link in front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted June 21, 2020 Share Posted June 21, 2020 (edited) On 6/17/2020 at 9:41 PM, Leon said: If we're talking rear arms, I think these are what's being referenced: https://silverproject.eu/rear-control-arm-adjustable-arms-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z/ In which case, there are some design issues with them. Mainly, they'll cause binding in the strut (see the many threads on this site on custom rear arms). I'm also not stoked on the shear plate design they have between the outer bushings and the tubes, a bit concerned about buckling which would be exacerbated by bending loads from the ARB and stiction in the bushes. Plus, they cut a hole in the primary lateral load path... I have these. I think you guys are on right track, desing aint best. My use is so light i think they will last. im not biggest fan cause those threaded parts are heaviest parts of this control arm and they add unsprung mass. weights 500grams more than stock control arm Edited June 21, 2020 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 That points to some of the repeat issues I have with the majority of custom suspension parts out on the market. They're almost never designed with structure in mind so they end up over-mass and/or less stiff and less strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 Can you guys who know what you're talking about give us an example of a well designed aftermarket rear control arm please? Personally I would like to know in case I ever go that route but it also would round out this thread for anyone in the future looking at this topic. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 I like the Apex Engineered arms. Others like the T3 arms. This thread details the idea behind the Apex and compares to designs like the T3. Pay particular attention to the idea of shimming the strut fore/aft, something I think T3 advertises as a feature of their design (it's a bad idea): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 On 6/24/2020 at 12:48 AM, JMortensen said: I like the Apex Engineered arms. Others like the T3 arms. This thread details the idea behind the Apex and compares to designs like the T3. Pay particular attention to the idea of shimming the strut fore/aft, something I think T3 advertises as a feature of their design (it's a bad idea): Me too, maybe swaybar tab looks flimsy and why do they include such pin bolt where eyelet is under threaded part, 290mm bolt should to better job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxx2rxx2 Posted December 25, 2023 Share Posted December 25, 2023 On 6/23/2020 at 11:48 AM, JMortensen said: I like the Apex Engineered arms. Others like the T3 arms. This thread details the idea behind the Apex and compares to designs like the T3. Pay particular attention to the idea of shimming the strut fore/aft, something I think T3 advertises as a feature of their design (it's a bad idea): Sorry to dig up an old thread. Is there a good way to center the rear tire in the wheelwell with aftermarket parts? I looked at the Apex engineered rear lower control arms and they describe being able wheel centering (up to 1/2" front and 1/2" back). Would anything else need to be changed to do this optimally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 27, 2023 Share Posted December 27, 2023 Make sure that the suspension moves freely through the full range. Can remove springs and compress the strut with ratchet straps and make sure you don't feel any solid resistance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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