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Experiences with Aluminum Flywheel on Z's


Zlovemachine

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Hello All,

 

I wanted some input on this much talked about subject. What i am looking for is real world experience NOT old man by the river stories. REAL personal experiences!

 

What are your experiences with this flywheel on a Turbo and N/A Zcar?

Please let us know the gearing and motor size. If use for race or street.

 

How streetable is a aluminum flywheel?

include real reasons for answer. again experiences only!

 

Is there torque lose? On bottom or Top End?

 

I did search and founs a couple of guys that gave go reasons for N/A, and most people were only talking about how they think it is not good or hear it.

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I put one on my Maxima with a Z31 Turbo engine in it. I know for sure there were two things different. It was noticebly more difficult to take off from a stop but the throttle response was incredible. The engine revved so much better. I know I'll be going with a light weight setup on my Z project for sure.

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I used the 12 lb AZC flywheel on my L28 in stop and go traffic for 3 years with my 44 Mikunis, a bigger cam than most, and an ACT pressure plate with a stock disk. It was not hard to drive at all.

 

I have friends with 510s and I've driven an L16 with 44 Mikunis a huge cam, Tilton aluminum flywheel and Nissan comp pp and that was damn near impossible to get off the line.

 

The extra inertia from the longer crank and the 2 cylinders, along with the low end torque they provide makes all the difference as far as driveability. And the light flywheel provides a GREAT benefit in acceleration and shifting, especially if you heel/toe downshift.

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How streetable is a aluminum flywheel?

 

I ran a 10lb. Tilton flywheel (which I just sold) and it was fine on the street with 3.54 rear gears.

 

include real reasons for answer. again experiences only!

 

I'm not explaining myself. Either you believe me or you don't.

 

Is there torque lose? On bottom or Top End?

 

A light flywheel has no affect on horsepower or torque. It does reduce overall weight and reduces MOI so you should see an improvement in acceleration, deceleration, cornering, and its easier on the transmission synchros.

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I think you should rephrase your question so it says “Experiences with a Lightweight Flywheel on Z's?â€. You can have a lightweight flywheel made from steel or aluminum. Steel is a better choice for a street car because I have seen aluminum flywheels wear around the crankshaft bolt holes. This causes the flywheel to become slightly loose over time (which causes more wear). You must keep an eye on the torque setting for the mounting bolts and routinely check them.

 

That being said, I have a 10lb HKS steel flywheel on my 260Z (3.1 liter engine, triple carbs, big cam, 3.70 diff) and it is great! Throttle response and acceleration is much improved and it is very streetable. The only difference I noticed was that the drop in rpm between gear shifts was increased, but this is easy to mask if you get into the habit of “blipping†the throttle when you dis-engage the clutch. No way I would ever go back to a heavier flywheel.

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I have an 11lb SPEC flywheel.

My old flyweel was like 28 pounds

was it worth it? YES!!! The motor is an L26 with roudtos and a rare header but still mostly stock. Throttle response became instant! Just watch the 260Z comercial and look how slow the tach moves when he revvs the engine. Now it is SOOO much better. Unfortunately my engine had a bearing go on a connecting rod. Now time to upgrade...Lightweight flywheel for the rest of the life of my Z.

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How the flywheel is constructed is as important as what it's made of, or how much it weighs. I have a cut down stocker that weighs 15# that has a MUCH more radical throttle response characteristic than the current 13# aluminim flywheels from Midway/Centerforce. It feels more like an 11# tilton.

As important as the weight and construction is the engine you put it on, a light flywheel will make a more dramatic felt difference in a car with more torque. An L28 will be as twitchy with a 14# flywheel as an L24 with a 10# unit.

My wife absolutely hates driving my L28 Blowthrough Turbo 73 with the 15# Flywheel, she refers to the throttle pedal acting as "the on off switch" with a 3.7 OR the original 3.36 gearset out back.

Put her in the L28 EFI N/A Fairlady 2+2, and the 13.5 Centerforce is nothing she finds objectinable, even with the 3.9 gears and a Big Throat T/B making tip-in touchy on top of it!

Put the same 13.5 flywheel behind her L26 with 3.7 gearing and "it's perfect, leave it alone, don't change anything!"

Available torque impacts the felt response, absence of an inertia ring as John C discussed reduces the MOI, and makes a heavier flywheel act like one much lighter with an intact inertia ring.

 

I don't own ANYTHING without a lightened or aftermarket flywheel that is lightweight. If you have a decent throttle linkage that is set up correctly for progressive tip-in then it becomes eminently drivable.

The lighter weight and big throttle plate area makes for a car that ACTS like one with MUCH more horsepower tha it really has.

 

For a wonderful example go drive a Mustang with a V6, and then one with a V8. The V6 will shoot across and intersection on tip-in response, and then fall on it's face due to lack of torque and horsepower, while the V-8 model while lazy out of the hole in comparison to the V6 (stock vs stock here) will quickly walk away because of the torque and hp it has...

 

The naysayers of the lightened or lightweight flywheel are mostly parrots squwaking things they have heard from another parrot. Welcome to the internet!

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Its always funny how old wives tales get started and people begin to think they are fact! I don't understand how the one about a light weight flywheel being un-streetable got started but, I'll tell you that my 13 lbs aluminum flywheel (L28/SU's/5 spd/ 4.10 LSD/ 235-40x17" tires) has made my 1970 240Z drive much easier.....for all aspects of driving a manual tranny.

 

Tom

 

 

P.S. Buy that sucker and be done with it!!!!

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Its always funny how old wives tales get started and people begin to think they are fact! I don't understand how the one about a light weight flywheel being un-streetable got started...

4 cylinder cars or rotaries with no torque is where that started. Having driven both with a light flywheel I can say that they can be difficult to get off the line. L6 though, NO PROBLEMO!

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It can be a challenge in stop/go traffic with a really light flywheel (11lb Tilton) and a super stiff and strong clutch(A sintered iron disc and a 2600 pressure plate).That clutch was an on /off switch.The current 10,000 rpm dual disc clutch is still a challenge in stop and go traffic due to the fact the entire assembly weighs only 13lbs.

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I love my Fidanza flywheel. (13lb)

I'll see what it's like on a turbo application when my ship's underway schedule allows.

Driveablility is still great, you just have to actually know how to drive a stick now to drive my car.

The stock flywheel allowed you to drop the clutch at IDLE and not stall it (L28E)

Now you have to slip it just a little bit, but definitely not excessive, you have to slip the clutch on a stock civic more than you do my Z with a 13lb flywheel.

The only other negative is when climbing hills she doesn't hold speed quite as easily (in other words I actually have to give it more gas rather than constant pedal, constant speed)

but I only need to downshift if I REALLY need to pass.

I still have ample torque to push old cutlass supremes across the Coronado bay bridge so it's not that bad.

The positives here (1/4 mile 2 TENTHS faster, great throttle response, even better MPG) definitely override those very minor negatives.

Plus the friction surface on the Fidanza F/W is replaceable!

P.S.- After over 4500miles of hard street driving and at least 100 passes the centerforce clutch still looks like new! I'm going to simply reuse the disc and p/p for the turbo swap!

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Oh yes, one more negative....shifting definitely got WAY more notchy....almost need to double clutch to get 2nd without grinding....but that goes with needing to know how to drive a stick shift now.

And....the stock flywheel was a lot quieter....a lot of transmission noise gets into the cabin now. I called Fidanza and they told me it's normal, something along the lines of aluminum being a more efficient vibration transmitter than cast iron or steel?

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Oh yes, one more negative....shifting definitely got WAY more notchy....almost need to double clutch to get 2nd without grinding....but that goes with needing to know how to drive a stick shift now.

And....the stock flywheel was a lot quieter....a lot of transmission noise gets into the cabin now. I called Fidanza and they told me it's normal, something along the lines of aluminum being a more efficient vibration transmitter than cast iron or steel?

 

Makes me wonder if they're also more proned to clutch chatter if that's the case.

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I don't know if it's more prone to chatter, but mine hasn't.

Also solve most of the noise problem, 5 gallons of Quiet car took care of that. Now it only makes noise in neutral.

I'll try synthetic gear lube when I put it back together with the L28ET to see if it helps the shifting problem. (I've had the tranny rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago, it shouldn't be too bad yet)

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  • 11 months later...

i just got back a 5sdp tranny from being rebuilt and i was going to swap that out from my 4 spd. i was going to slap a 10.5lb alm flywheel and a race clutch (something still streetable, nothing all out). i am going to do this in the next 2 or 3 weeks and have been told by ppl to stay away from the light weight flywheel. reading all of this i am going to through that nonsence out the window. i am going to buy a fidanza and a zoom stage III. i have done quite a bit to my z and it is much better over stock. the clutch is most likely originle and it isnt like i have been nice to it either. will adding one of those afi race dampers help to make an even bigger difference over the current setup? i figured maybe just to go the extra mile with lightening the rotating mass. any of you have am aftermarket damper/harmonic balincer? did it help any? thanks.

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I have a Fidanza alum. 244mm flywheel in my turbo track car (L28) and also in my z32TT. Both cars are highly modded, make gobs of power, will idle without problems and are smooth and "streetable" if I wanted them to be driven that way. Believe it or not!

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The last Z I had with a L28 had a cam and head work, headers, and a good exhaust. It wasn't a world killer, but did very well against the IROC's and Stangs of the day. (Late 80's) I dropped the tranny and put in a ZX 5 spd with a Centerforce clutch, 12.5 or 13 pound flywheel, and 411 gears in the rear. That package installed all at once made it a little difficult to adapt to at first... I stalled first gear sporadically for the first couple of days but after that there was no looking back. I absolutely loved the combination, and it may have in fact kinda soured the V8 combination for me... I have owned several faster V8 Z's since, but none were as enjoyable as that package for me.

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I have a HKS 9.4lb billet steel flywheel. I have ran it on a stock na.

Throttle response is amazing espacially with a 60mm throttle body.

no issues of negative that I experianced

When I built the motor that I have now I had a stock flywheel machined down. 15lbs was the end result. seems to work fine but not as responsive as the 9.4lb. I would have used it instead but it was in my car when the new motor went together so.

If anyone is interested in the 9.4lb let me know. I will sell it to someone here for $150. it has about 500 miles on it. I have a pic of it on a digital scale. if not I will flea bay it someday

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