HuD 91gt

Good rear. I'm just curious what the machine shop may have charged for their work?

I just googled what ring gear run out is. In fact I suppose that is what is happening and will be a good way to measure. But I in fact was talking about backlash. With the pinion locked in position, the amount of "forward and backward" movement the ring gear is able to move.

I purchased an OBX LSD (Yes I know there is a thread, but this does not apply to just OBX users) and I am in the middle of installing it. I purchased Rbryans install kit, and followed his directions to replace the washers and bolts. Where my issues comes in, is that when measuring the ring gear backlash, I am getting a huge variances. Ranging from 0.008" to almost nothing. I will be tearing everything down again and trying again making sure all surfaces are spotless. I installed new Timken axle bearings on the carrier, but I did not touch the pinion. To install the bearings I put the carrier in the freezer, and the bearings in the oven at 200 for a few minutes. One bearing slid right on, the second I didn't get quite in time. So I found a press to push it on the extra 1/4". Is it possible I could have bent the ring gear using the press? I made sure to torque the ring gear (I did 3 steps) evenly in a criss cross fashion. This didn't help. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for when taking it apart? I purchased a selection of shims today as well so I will be trying different combinations to get it within spec if I can figure out why the variance is so large.

Ran great, shut it down and then runs like crap? Sounds like a perfect example of the SU choke not settling back in place after release. get your fingers up there and make sure it's set in it's seat.

Crank trigger Hall sensor and 60-1 wheel.

I have the C.542s. I can only compare a 10.5:1 combo with a stock cam, to a much lower compression (8.6:1) with the C.542s. Less low end grunt with the colt cam (Compression was probably a good portion of this), but pulls hard to red line. Different engines, same car, but not a great comparison. It has a fairly lumpy idle. There is another user local to us Vancouverites, who has a c.542s and tried to use it with stock EFI. It didn't like it. Colt Cams reground, I believe the intake side down to one of their less aggressive profiles. They left the exhaust side the same. It then worked with the stock EFI. I could be backwards with that, but you get the point. To add to this. Shadbolt is another local Vancouver company who actually was the original maker of this grind (So the rumours go). They will do the same grind for much less money. I think $160 Canadian.

If you look at the return outlet, there is a small pin hole at the end. That's it. I developed a heat soak issues when I installed an aftermarket header with my SU carb's. Car would run ok once moving, in idle is where it ran awful. Once moving it went away. Fuel rail would be very hot to the touch.

First things first. Read the Megasquirt Manual for the Megasquirt board that you have. Secondly, make a plan with the parts that you have, and the parts you are going to need. With the little you know about this project, your basically starting from scratch. Figure out how the megasquirt is internally set, and make sure it is how you are going to run it. Lastly, Enjoy. It's a steep learning curve, but once you get it, it all makes sense. Matt Cramers book on fuel injection is also a good one to read prior to getting started.

I'm running MS2, and the ability to have more input/outputs for additional sensors would be nice. Not required, but nice. If you want to add some sort of idle control, everything gets eaten up pretty quickly.

I purchased a Holset turbo, and the standard flange was cut off, with a V-band welded onto it.

I actually have those exact lines, I was just meaning they looks straight and tidy! Good job. It is a great product though

I agree. Rubber on the opposite side would be better. The 90 degree bend is going to have flexibility in it already but where it is placed now puts that pressure on the regulator mount, and those hose connection s.

I feel your pain, and im using easy to bend aluminum! One thing id watch, if you dont have solid motor mounts you will have side to side movement with the engine. Is there enough give in that 3 inch piece of rubber between fuel rail hardline and regulator?

Ive never really heard of these systems but it does make sense. Would a simple vent line from the tank, leading to the intake (prior to TB) make sense? If fuel vapours are a concern to you when the vehicle is off, there must be a light check valve available which would close when no vacuum is present? No need for electonics this way.

Nice looking brake lines!

^ nah. Thats just a stupid trend.

^ I'm in the middle of porting my turbo manifold. Certainly a lot of hours are going into it. Would be nice to make one but not an option for me. This will have to do. Due to lack of welding capabilities (and for the cost I might as well buy pre made) I'm going to attempt a high temp epoxy, or perhaps try the lab metal product on my shelf.

Funny you bring this up. Ive been searching the forum for dyno plots of people running a stock manifold or ported one. The only ones I seem to find are turbo charged engines. Big HP NA cars seem to go the way of Weber. I have my L28et manifold cut apart and I'm in the middle of smoothing and polishing. It is the basis of my MS system so I'm curious what kind of power it may be able handle before the so called "restrictions" take over. I have a similar cam as youve posted. Also some headwork to go with it.

I was in for $3400 Canadian for port polish, new guides and seats. I provided cam, valves springs and rocker arms. They CC'd the chambers and equaled them out. Id say that was high. When I called Rebello, he quoted $2000US for similar work but he included all the parts. Id go with them next time.

Top End Performance has a trigger wheel and mount. I believe I have an older version and seems to be working well. Very simple.

Were you planning on running a cylinder head temp sensor versus a coolant temperature sensor (P90 CHT in head vs thermostat mounted?). I asked this question previously, the outcome was that they will both do the job, but the cylinder head sensor gives a slower read out on temperature changed.

Nice work getting involved with Dave. Hopefully it sends you plenty of business to pay off all your hard work. Great stuff!

Good for you for not getting sucked into the AN stuff. I actually prefer the look of the rubber lines. Your right, even using the off brands (Jegs/Summit) my bill was $390 + fuel pumps/regulator. The only reason I went that way was the off chance the car may seem some stringent rules for track duty. I doubt it, but you never know.

Yes, i'm having a B^&%h of a issue trying to keep all my components in the rear (Surge tank, filters, fuel pumps). It will work, but is not much fun. Neat contraption. Your right though, mounting wouldn't be an issue on the stock tank, but having rooms for the lines/fittings above the tank could be troublesome. With a little bit of welding, i'm sure you could trim the spare tire well to make room while keeping thing tidy. Good luck. I'm not too far behind you. PS: I'm kind of excited to run new lines. I enjoyed doing the brakes. Going with 3/8" hard lines myself. I ended dup with aluminum despite what the internet says. But i'm in the airline industry. If it's good enough for a 500 passenger jet, it's good enough for me.

Interesting little contraption. I'm too deep into my external surge tank, with an internal Walbro to change directions, but that certainly looks much cleaner and lot less hassle.