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tube80z

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Everything posted by tube80z

  1. I'm probably just piling on info you already looked at but did you see these, (https://www.hotrod.com/articles/venting-to-cure-crankshaft-pressure/, https://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=609182&page=5)? Is that how you plumbed things? I saw a number of people claiming on road race LS motors you need half inch (-8 AN) or larger lines to deal with the problem. Before I did any of this I'd make sure you don't have excessive blowby/leakdown from a broken ring. I should add that all this disappeared when we dry sumped Kipperman's engine. His locost that had a wet sump LS2 had some vented breathers that ran to a catch can and it was always having some oil mist come out. If you do want to think more about the dry sump I did my complete system using NASCAR take off parts for around $1300. Cary
  2. There's been a lot of good replies to your question of how to build your car. I wanted to share some hindsight from a number of projects I've been involved with over the years. In the end you'll decide if any of this is useful or not. 1. One of the toughest decisions you'll be faced with is do you want a street car that can tracked or a track car that's street legal. Those may sound like the same thing but they are from from it. The first involves adding performance using the Z chassis for the most part similar to the Green Hornet mentioned above. The latter is much more like building a chassis and dropping the Z body onto it. This gets you more to a car like the Fairlady Z06 mentioned above. This also determines if you start with a solid chassis or you use one that's nothing more than the roof and doors. 2. Research, research, research. I'm not trying to be funny but you need to have the entire build plan figured out before you start. Then create a checklist and start crossing of items. This research and list will help you build a budget for the car. It may end up being a lot more expensive than you imagine (nothing wrong there) and you may never want an SO to see this spreadsheet. But if you've done your research and stick to your plan you won't but parts two or three times to get the right item. It will also keep you from having to figure certain things out along the way, which really adds up time wise. And lastly it will keep you from having scope creep. The latter can be a real killer of projects. 3. Determine/buy the drivetrain parts last. This is engine, transmission, wheels & tires, etc. If your project takes more than a year to build it's often possible better items will come along or prices in scrap yards will get better. The only time I'd say you can break this rule is if you have determined their is a specific drivetrain you're going to use and it's not going to get any cheaper and in fact may be harder to get later on down the road (L28ET for instance). 4. For the things you can't do find a good professional that can help you. While it's often tempting to use a buddies buddy or someone doing this from their home I've seen a lot of projects get stalled this way. This is generally around body and pain but could also be around having a roll cage built. For any vendors you plan to use take a look around to make sure they have a good track record. I wish you luck and good fortune on building your car. In the end there's nothing better than something you built yourself, well at least to me. Cary
  3. I'd recommend Susprog3D. It's nothing fancy but gives you all you need to solve the DIY pick-a-part suspension designs. That's what I'm using to see if we can figure out a simple approach to reduce scrub on Jon's car. Cary
  4. tube80z

    V10 240Z build on YouTube

    This won't be no project Blinky, that much is for sure.
  5. That's a really good thread to read through even if you don't decide to go into that depth of detail. It will help make you a much better purchaser of suspension and help with what to ask for. Inverted monotubes are nothing special really. They are just an upside down shock and what looks like the large rod in the top of the strut is really the insert body. Bilstein or a good example of this. They are often used/hacked to create one off setups. There are a number of good threads around using them as a base. Hope that helps, Cary
  6. Since this is a racing car you should really not be thinking about some off the shelf solution. I would either work with someone who can help you pick a setup for your car based on sprung/unsprung weights and the available grip you expect to have or go through the exercise of calculating that yourself. I would look very hard at inverted monotube designs as they have a much larger shaft to bushing ratio that helps with not only how long things will last but the amount of compliance that you'll see in cornering. You may want to check the rules you race under to see if there are any issues you might run into on that front. Don't get in a rush and end up buying the same thing twice. A little work/research up front will help you save dollars in the long run. Cary
  7. tube80z

    Tim's 302Z

    One thing I might suggest. If you look at a new car and compare the chassis to the Z you'll find a connection from the rocker to the frame well in the front wheel well. This is the same area that saw a lot of work in the B&W pictures you linked to previously. And on our race cars we often put tubing into the rockers to make the floor stronger. At the front wheel end this was connected to the TC box. Very similar to some of the photos you have shared. Props to all the work to save this one. At some point these cars will be rare enough this will be commonplace. I'm glad I live where they don't salt roads. Hope this helps, Cary
  8. tube80z

    aviation fuel mix with gasoline?

    Did you notice this is a ten year old thread?
  9. That could easily be solved with using an oversize bung and adjuster added so you can change length on the car. I never bothered with my set as they were made in a jig matched to the arms that came off the car.
  10. Rather than weld the mustache bar to the drop links you can make a new setup that's one piece and bolts in. Here's some pics of what I'd do for the inner frame. While this does use a mustache bar I'd replace that with tubing that connected to the uprights out to the mustache bar outer mounts. Then some simple triangulation would make it very stiff. Rather than use the H style control arm I'd move to one of the toe-link style arms that have been built by a number of people. In case you're curious these are the rear suspension pics from John Thomas' national championship winning FP car. Hope you find them inspirational, Cary
  11. tube80z

    240Z Pro-Touring Build

    My advice, from screwing up this a number of times, is to get the engine and tranny last. You never know how long it will take to complete these projects and what looked awesome now may be a lot less awesome in years to come. Not to mention potentially cheaper. Cary
  12. A friend who runs a EP car used the CFR 4 bolt variety and there wasn't any problem. They broke one too and then changed to the CFR part. I put one of them in and they looked nice and used good hardware for the studs. Cary
  13. tube80z

    ABS in a 240Z?

    Sounds like you're well down the road with the Teves unit then. I'll be curious to see how that works with slicks. I was going to suggest another option is the Ford FR500 unit that is programmed for slicks. Install is very similar but Ford motorsport has a much cheaper harness option. Cary
  14. tube80z

    Base model 280zx project

    Yeah, photobucket seems to have screwed almost all the car threads and other forums I view. It's understandable but it would have been nice if there was an easy way to migrate but then they couldn't hold people's pictures hostage.
  15. tube80z

    Pikes Peaks 2016

    I know we all like to fly the Z flag but if you do have to start over a newer platform could be a better move. Not only suspension is better but you get a stiffer chassis often and much better aero. Sure you can get there with a Z but you're going to need to do a lot of work rebuilding much of the car. So my vote from a racing results standpoint would be to look at some other platforms. Cary
  16. tube80z

    Pikes Peaks 2016

    Holy fill your pants you're not kidding. Time for a flat floor conversion? Or do you think everything else is too tweaked? Just happy you're not hurt.
  17. tube80z

    Pikes Peaks 2016

    Bummer for sure. Glad all the work you put into safety was worth it but too bad it had to get used. From the video it almost looked like the road had a drop going into the corner and compression braking was enough to lose the rear end. And on a hill there's rarely any room for run off. Cary
  18. tube80z

    Button clutches and recommendations or experience

    Their online material (http://www.powertraintech.com/Files/PDFs/Clutch%20Facts.pdf) states 400 TQ per disk. So you may want to verify. That sounds like it might be an okay way to go. My limited experience is that you raise the revs and do a couple quick dips to get the car rolling and then fully engage (pit driving). I think as long as you use the button and the stock flexplate it will be a little better. Mine is a button and ring gear that's mounted to the clutch cover. This is using a low ground clearance bellhousing and reverse starter. If you're planning to ebay a cheap cover I'd go with a Tilton as they had hardened pads for the disks to touch. I have a quartermaster cover and they are just hard anodized from the look of it. As to how loud they are it's fairly obnoxious when in neutral. It sounds like something is broken or about to fall off. Many of the street dual disk systems employ some kind of strapping between the disks to keep them from rattling back and forth. Cary
  19. I get the motion ratio changed but if you're using a stock arm and everything connects in the same place up top then you're not changing the geometry. And it's the geometry that determines the camber curve. It works the same way up front. Cary
  20. tube80z

    Button clutches and recommendations or experience

    You mention using this on the street. The clutch you mention is similar to a rally clutch where a 3 disc race setup is stacked up the same using two thicker cerametallic discs, which allows for more slip. This setup isn't as grabby but still is fairly violent on take up. And when in neutral they are loud with the discs banging about. If you plan on having good launches you're going to need more weight than the traditional button allows. This is streetable but doesn't have the best manners and you need to make sure you don't slip it too much. A number of friends are running these in CP autox cars and an LS2 powered XP RX-7. In the RX-7 it doesn't seem too hard to take off and not kill it but you need to raise the revs and be fairly quick on engagement. Jon Mortensen uses one in his XP car too if you want more of data points. I don't think you can go any smaller than 7.25 and still drive on the street. The smaller options don't have enough heat capacity. Although I know you didn't ask that. Hope that helps, Cary
  21. tube80z

    Is this site dead?

    I think you'll find the many things have been figured out over the years so some content areas don't see much new content. That can all change based on new donors cars being available or someone willing to push the ball a little further up hill. Cary
  22. tube80z

    Rb26 to Jerico bell housing

    I helped with a jerico to an L-series setup. We used the front from an automatic if I recall correctly. Then a big chunk of aluminum that bolted to both. It was turned to have a center hole that fit into the automatic bellhousing. I've seen variations on this theme over the years. Here's some pics of what it looked like, https://csgarage.com/blogs/csgarage/17986933-adams-s14-jerico. There's also the quicktime bellhousing, http://www.jegs.com/p/Quick-Time-Bellhousing/Quick-Time-Nissan-Engine-Adapter-Bellhousing/2834608/10002/-1 I've heard they will do custom versions if you give them a call. Cary
  23. Paul Henshaw is on both facebook and viczcar. You could try asking him. Cary
  24. tube80z

    Bolt-on struts?

    My only advice is to see what level of support you can get. A really good up front price doesn't mean a lot if they need to be shipped vast distances for rebuild or if there are no dealers close by with parts. A long time ago I bought the ground control double adjustable inserts. Loved them at first but after sitting over a winter they lost all their oil (store on the shelf) and GC wanted $100 a pop to service them. This time they don't seem to work as well (no dyno charts ever supplied) and they lost oil again the next year. Now they want $250 a piece to service and that was some time ago. I gave them to a friend and he said they now want more than I paid for them to be serviced. While it may cost more I'd want to work with a dealer that supplied dynos and rebuilds that weren't too costly as those add up over time. And a company that has a good inventory of parts that might even have race track support. That probably means different companies in different parts of the world. For a Z car that's used in a race environment you want to ideally use an inverted strut. This puts a stiffer part under bending load than the smaller shock shaft. And for the higher quality parts you should be looking at linear bearings or roller bearing top hats. These will reduce stiction when the suspension is bound under corner or braking load. Even things like the type of seal used on the shaft can make a difference. The one true standard across all these is that anything that ticks all those boxes is usually expensive. My personal feeling is that a S30 Z car isn't stiff enough to need anything more than a double adjustable shock. Hope this helps, Cary
  25. tube80z

    Idea for front knuckles.

    The problem with your drawing is that you didn't include the hub and where the wheel face will go. Ideally you want to go all the way down to the ground and see where this falls in relation to the tire's center on the ground. One problem that often arises is the front track grows when you try and make all this work. For a street car a ball joint is probably going to be lower maintenance. The joint you're looking to use is huge overkill for what's needed. One thing to remember is that you might want things like ball joints to bend or break if you hit a curb or other large object. If you don't have a "fuse" to blow then all that force will go find the next week link. You don't want that to be the frame rails. Hope that helps, Cary
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