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Found 12 results

  1. Hello Guys, first post and straight a brake thread - I`m sorry, but I read hours on hours in the FAQ section and in a lot of other brake related threads but couldn't find anybody who has done this. So on the weekend I bought a 78 280Z and I´d like to go down the performance road while still keep it kinda periodic correct so I don`t get problems with TÜV in germany and a historic licence plate. So the car will get fully striped down, an exterior backdate to 240z, suspension upgrades, fender flares, exhaust, maybe tripple weber (have to inform myself a bit more on that vs EFI) etc. etc. A lot of people go straight to a rear disk brake conversion and complain about the brake bias and sometimes even damaged axels due to a different load on them compared to drums. Basically thats not what I wanna do plus the TÜV thing mentioned above. But what about keeping the drums in the rear, change the front to S12W and go with a 15/16 master. If I`ve seen that correctly thats what they did back in the day with the original FIA brake upgrade out of the competition catalog. They just went with 13/16 wheel cylinders inside the drums. (not sure about the mastercylinder with FIA brakes...) I just can`t find the size of the original cylinders inside the drums... Somebody did that conversion here in the forums? Is it working well with the original proportion valve or is a manual one capable of dialing in a proper brake bias? Probably have to run a couple calculations to find out (which seems not that easy with drums). But as of the drums are able to create a higher brake force with less hydraulic input they should work better as a rear disc conversion. What do you think? Any help or experience is welcome
  2. As the title states, looking for a 79-81 brake master cylinder. let me know if you have a spare lying around. thanks!
  3. Hey HybridZ crew! So I finally decided that after upgrading nearly every other component on the chassis of my Datsun, and a couple really lack luster performances, it was time to do the brakes! I was suitably frustrated with their lack of grab that I started to look into other options. Since this is primarily an auto-x car, I wasn't too concerned with heat dissipation and brake fade like on a serious wheel to wheel machine, and I was more concerned with keeping my weight down. Here's the car, zooming around at Nissanfest this year at Evergreen Speedway. With those factors in mine I went shopping and settled on the Silvermine Motors "Small" wilwood kit. It has the forged 4 piston Dynalite calipers up front and the billet 2 piston dynalite in the rear and traditional drilled and slotted rotors, rather than 2 piece rotors The kit also comes with all the lines needed to connect to the factory fittings. It even has the little retaining clips that always shoot off and get lost under work benches when you pull the stock lines! Edan at Silvermine was excellent to work with and guided me in the right direction on a couple things. Fastest shipping I've ever had on a part. Think he put them in the mail Thursday afternoon, and I had them in my hands on a Monday! Boxes contents all laid out! Well packaged, and everything in its place! Comes with some awesome 10.9 grade hardware, the only bolts you reuse are the front brake caliper bolts, which hold on the new brackets. Really well made and well thought out kit. The rear install is a breeze, once the drum backing plates are out of the way, and the ebrake cables are gone! Hey, its dead weight right? Since the Silvermine kit uses a 3 bolt rear bracket, I didn't need to pull the whole rear assembly apart, so I just turned the rear drum plates into pizzas! Just cut to the bolt holes and then flex them a few times, and they snap right out. The whole rear install probably took about 40 minutes start to finish. For my method, you don't need any really crazy tools or huge breaker bars, just a reasonable quality angle grinder! You could absolutely take the stub axles out (and it would be a perfect time to do rear wheel bearings) if you wanted to keep sparks to a minimum. Part of me wanted thought to see if it was possible without removing the axles, which makes this job MUCH less of an endeavor. The caliper mounts at the 10 o'clock position, keeping its minimal weight inside the axle line of the car. The front kit goes on super nicely. Remove and save the caliper bolts, and then remove the hub/rotor assembly. Why Datsun did it this way is a mystery to me, but oh well. I wire wheeled the mounting surface on the hub and the rotor, as well as chamfered the mounting edge of the bore on the rotor to ensure a solid mount. Bolt the hub back together and then put your new rotor on! Bleed and you're done! Overall impressions, these were really well made, I give them 2 wrenches out of 5 for installing. Depending on how you decide to remove your drum backing plates, it goes up to a 3 or 4 out of 5, particularly for a new to Datsun mechanic. I'm racing the car this weekend, so hopefully I'll have developed an opinion about the brakes this time next week!
  4. ~KnuckleDuster~

    S12W Caliper

    From the album: New Parts

  5. Silver Mine Motors

    Silver Mine Motors March 2016 sale!!!!!

    We are having a crazy sale next month. prices have never been this low!!! In order to celebrate our 9th year of being in business we have decided to give Hybridz forum members a discount on all our brake upgrades! This year we also have 5 lug front hubs, lower control arms and TC rod, and wilwood brake kits all on sale! The sale will be for the month of March 2016 Pm or email me for these prices [email protected] Or call me at (818) 636-2797 The sale prices are as follows: Stage 4 front kit (s30) = $440 Stage 3 front brake kit (s30) = $300 (240z kit is $370) Rear stage 4 brake kit (s30) = $700 S30 rear disk conversion kit $550 280zx /510 stage 4 front kit = $500 510 rear disk conversion = $500 S30 5 lug rear stub axles = $300 S30 5 lug Front aluminum hubs = $385 Adjustable Front lower control arms (S30) = $200 Adjustable caster TC rod (S30) = $200 Front Wilwood brake upgrade (large calipers) = $800 Front Wilwood brake upgrade (small calipers) = $630 Rear Wilwood brake upgrade (large calipers) = $630 For more info. and full pictures Go to SilverMineMotors.com
  6. Hi everyone, HybridZ is really where I come when I'm at a complete loss and everything I've tried hasn't worked. I'm going to be as detailed as possible so bear with me, I'll try to keep it concise. A few weeks back, I replaced the passenger side rear suspension assembly- everything from the control arm to the shock insulator. The driver side had already been replaced as it was previously damaged in a crash around the spindle area. At this point both sides of the suspension are from a later 280z. When I was adjusting the drums, the flathead I was using slipped and bumped the rubber boot of the wheel cylinder and a little fluid oozed out. Guess that explains my inconsistent brake pedal. I wasn't drastically losing fluid or anything, but it must have been a small leak that would occasionally rear its head and my pedal would be just a bit softer than usual. I grabbed an extra wheel cylinder I had that looked like it was in good shape and replaced it. That's when the trouble really started. I stripped the brake line bolt and the wheel cylinder threads. Bit the bullet and ordered a brand new wheel cylinder... cheap and not a bad thing to replace while I'm in there. I also got pre-flared brake line to replace the OEM one I messed up. I made sure it was Japanese style brake line- double flare and 10mm bolts. I "rented" a tube bender and shaped it as close to the OEM one as I could. I ended up with a 30" line as it was either 20" or 30" and I figured it was better to be a bit long than a bit short. Replaced the wheel cylinder, bolted the line up, made sure it didn't leak and didn't hit anything with the car lowered, and bled the rear brakes. Here's where I may have gone wrong- my understanding is the front and rear circuits are separate so leaving the fronts alone I only bled the rears at first. Finished the rest of my work and finally was ready to drive my car after not doing so for several weeks. I could tell immediately something was off. The pedal practically went to the floor right away but I could pump it and build up pressure. Ok, air in the lines or drum is adjusted way too loose. Checked both drums and they're tight but rotate as much as I want them to. Must be air in the lines still. Bleed the rears again and retry but it feels exactly the same. I think I bled my rear brakes about 4 times, then bled the front and rears, then bled the master cylinder, rebled the rears, and the pedal never felt different. On a recent endeavor to bleed the rears for god only knows-th time, the passenger bleed screw snaps in half inside the wheel cylinder. Fair enough, now I can have two new wheel cylinders. Again, cheap insurance. Replaced it, bled the rears again, and the pedal still feels the same. I get very light braking on the first push, but if I pump it quickly I get normal feeling brakes. Today I attempted to bleed the rears yet again. I bought a simple vacuum bleeder to do it myself. I'm a bit stumped because the driver side wheel cylinder just doesn't seem to want to bleed. I recruited someone to hop in and push the pedal so I could get a better view of what's going on. I crack it wide open and it seems like fluid is barely moving through it. On top of that, the pedal feels normal with the bleeder open and seems to build pressure better than with it closed! Is my cylinder bad? Am I going insane? To quote Zoolander... "I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!" I have a turbo motor waiting and this is really the one thing standing in the way. SOS!
  7. I bought this a while ago, but now I have an S30 chassis and I am selling my Z31 stuff. Never installed, still in box (see pictures). $40 + shipping. A1 CARDONE FRICTION CHOICE BRAKE CALIPER, UNLOADED, NATURAL FINISH, REMANUFACTURED Bring back the braking power of your vehicle with A1 Cardone Friction Choice Brake Caliper. This high quality brake caliper guarantees your vehicle with stopping power you need each time you want to stop. Features: With Pre-lubricated guide bolts on mounting bracket that prevents seizing 100 percent OE like rubber seals to guarantee factory-like performance Tested with 100 percent pressure to ensure proper braking function Trouble-free bleeding and positive seal which is provided by the new bleeder screws Offered with or without mounting bracket to give you choices of configurations that best meets your needs Item Details:Includes mounting hardware Does not include brake pads and mounting bracket Series:A1 Cardone Friction Choice Location:Front, Driver Side Material:OE Replacement Type:Unloaded (Caliper Only) Color/Finish:Natural Condition:Remanufactured Product Fit:Direct Fit Does Not Include:Brake pad(s), bracket(s) Includes:Mounting Hardware This product fits the following 1987 Nissan 300ZX submodels 1987-1989: Turbo; 6 Cyl 3.0L; "Turbocharged" 1987-1988: 2+2; 6 Cyl 3.0L; "Turbocharged"
  8. Was helping a buddy at the shop with the brakes on his lsx rx7, when i picked up one of the calipers. WOW are they light. all aluminum four piston fixed caliper and they're cheap at 35 a piece. so i was wondering if this would be another budget upgrade option. after some looking seems to be a fairly popular upgrade for the ae86 guys. im a long ways off from brakes but i wanted to put this up to see if anyone had opinions.
  9. So my 240z has 79 280zx master cylinder, 4-piston calipers with z31 vented rotors up front with perfomance friction pads, and rear has 240sx calipers with akebono pro-act pads and z31 rotors. My problem is the front brakes lock up too easily and I can't stop well at autocross. Has anyone tried a more aggressive autox hawk pad in the rear to help with balancing and have more friction and grab in the rear? Any experience with this? I also saw a mustang kit from silver mine motors. but these won't clear my 14" rally rims. What do you think about trying the pads, or is that a waste of time? Thanks!
  10. Hello fellow z car owners. My name is Savy and I have several parts for sale. To start I have a brand new in box/wrapped plastic set of windshield seals. They are made for the 1973 240z front windshield and rear hatch glass seal. The Seals are made by a company know as Precision replacement parts. I purchased the pair from Datsun Parts llc. located in Rancho Cucamonga, Ca. I'm asking $125 for both shipped anywhere in the U.S. Second, I also have a remanufactured brake booster from a 280z and a rebuilt and polished brake master cylinder 15/16in in diameter from Datsusn Parts llc. The booster and master cylinder comes with brand new wilwood old style reservoirs with caps also. I'm asking $225 for all of that shipped anywhere in the U.S Third, I have a steering rack with tie rod ends available for $55 + Shipping. The rubber boots are in great condition and they are not torn or cracked at all. Fourth, I have a pair of headlight buckets. They have some scratches and light surface rust on the back, but nothing major. Im asking $50 Shipped or $35 picked up. Lastly, I have used discontinued HKS Super Drager muffler available for $60. There is some light scratches but in great condition. This is only the muffler and will have to be welded on to complete the exhaust system. A great addition to any true japanese Parts enthusiast. My phone number is 916-690-0578 and I will respond fastest to text messages, however I will also check messages here on this forum also. Let me know which parts you guys might be interested in. My wife has been bugging me a while to clear out the parts if I want to avoid sleeping on the couch. Throw me an offer, worse I can say is no.
  11. I have a 76 s30 280z with the toyota 4 piston calipers installed up front and stock drums in the rear. I just installed a used 81 s130 280zx brake master cylinder and booster. Both bmc and booster were taken off a junkyard 280zx. The install was pretty easy and straight forward. Just had to take off the spacer and flip the booster and everything bolted up fine. I have bled the brakes in the proper order but there is a problem. The brakes don't work. Basically with the car off the brake pedal builds no pressure. The pedal is spongey about 3/4 of the way down and then super loose at the last 1/4 When the car is on there is absolutely no pressure or resistance or anything. The pedal just goes straight down to the floor with no effort. The brakes don't even work a little. From what I can tell there are no leaks. I read it might me be a push rod issue or brake pedal linkage? Any other suggestion on what the problem might be?
  12. Silver Mine Motors

    BRAKE KITS ON SALE- JANUARY!!!

    In order to ring in the new year, and celebrate our 6th year of being in business we have decided to give Hybridz forum members a discount on all our brake upgrades! The sale will be for the month of January 2013 The new prices are as follows: Stage 4 front kit (s30) = $445 (has not been this inexpensive since they came out) Stage 3 front brake kit (s30) = $305 (240z kit is $375) Rear stage 4 brake kit (s30) = $755 280zx stage 4 front kit = $629 Pm or email me for these prices [email protected] Or call me at (818) 636-2797 Here are the pics and descriptions for each brake kit. For more info. Go to silver mine motors.com Stage 4 front brake kit = $445 For 240z, 260z, and 280z. This brake kit comes with the following parts: 1. Enormous 4 piston calipers (43mm pistons) 2. Vented, slotted, and drilled CNC rotors with zinc plaiting to prevent rusting 3. DOT approved custom fabricated steel braided brake lines 4. Custom fabricated T6061 aluminum spacers 5. Ceramic brake pads 6. All the needed hardware As you can see this kit is a complete kit. There are no other parts needed to complete the installation. Installing is very easy, and can be done in less than two hours. The 4 piston calipers you will be getting have the biggest pistons available (43mm). The vented slotted and drilled rotors are professionally built with CNC machines, and zinc plated to prevent rusting. The steel braided brake lines are custom made to fit this brake kit for easy installation. They are also government DOT approved just like the stock brake lines that come on new cars from the factory today. So you can believe they will not have any problems. The aluminum spacers are made of the highest grade of aluminum on the market T6160. These spacers are very light and extremely strong. The ceramic brake pads are built buy centric brake company. They are very quiet and smooth. If you don't want the brake pads you can subtract $20 from the final price. I personally have this brake kit on my 280z and it made a big difference, my car now stops on the dime. Pleas allow one week for parts to be built and shipped out after payment is received. Over all it’s a great brake kit that will make your Z stop faster and better than you could ever imagine. It has bigger pistons than the $800 kits Willwood sells, so you do the math. Pleas specify what type of z car you have when you order! Stage 3 kit (front) brake kit Sale price: $345 For 240z, 260z, and 280z. This kit includes: 1. Four piston calipers 2. Slotted and drilled CNC rotors with zinc plaiting to prevent rusting 3. DOT approved custom fabricated steel braided brake lines. 4. Ceramic brake pads As you can see this is a complete kit. There are no other parts needed to complete the installation. This is a big brake kit for any Datsun zcar made during 1970-1978. The calipers are four piston calipers, which are a big increase in piston size as opposed to the dual piston caliper that came on the car from the factory. The slotted and drilled rotors are professionally built with CNC machines, and zinc plated to prevent rusting. The steel braided brake lines are custom made to fit this brake kit for easy installation. They are also government DOT approved just like the stock brake lines that come on new cars from the factory today. So you can believe they will not have any problems. They are also steel braided with a layer of clear lamination to prevent expansion of the line under pressure. The ceramic brake pads are built buy centric brake company. They are very quiet and smooth. If you don't want the brake pads you can subtract $20 from the final Stage 4 rear big brake kit = $755 This kit includes: 1. Pair of new 11.8 inch CNC drilled, slotted, vented, Zink plated, and machine balanced rotors. 2. Pair of brand new Enormous1.6 inch (43mm) single piston calipers with e-brake function. 3. DOT approved custom fabricated steel braided brake lines. 4. Ceramic brake pads 5. One pair of custom fabricated 1018 alloy brackets. 6. All the needed hardware. 7. Installation instructions. As you can see this is a complete brake kit. There are no other parts needed to complete the installation. There is currently no other brake kit with e-brake function on the market that has bigger piston calipers than this brake kit. The calipers are the strongest calipers in any rear brake kit available with e-brake for our Z cars. They feature 1.6 inch pistons (43mm) and an amazingly strong e-brake function. These calipers are also available in many local auto parts stores so replacing them is not a problem. They originally came off a car with 500 hp from the factory. So you can believe they will stop your light z car with whip lashing power! The pair of Drilled, Slotted, Vented, machine balanced, and Zink plated rotors are professionally built with precision C.N.C. machines. They are Zink plated which prevents them from rusting. The rotors are also vented which will greatly lower the chances of brake fade under extreme driving conditions. The steel braided brake lines are custom made to fit this brake kit for easy installation. They are also government DOT approved just like the stock brake lines that come on new cars from the factory today, except that they are much much stronger. So you can believe they will not have any safety problems. The custom fabricated brackets are made of 1018 steel. They will never rust or corrode. Just to give you an example of how strong they are the stock brackets off most cars today including the maxima brackets have a hardness level of about 13. These brackets have a hardness level of 17. They are not hardened on the outside, so they will not snap. The metal that was used to make these brackets is made in U.S.A. and is certified by two reputable American owned alloy companies: Nucor cold finish group, and Fry steel company. Aluminum brackets are as strong as twigs when compared to these brackets. The ceramic brake pads are built by Posi Quiet. They are very quiet and smooth. If you don't want the brake pads you can subtract $20 from the final price. I can also get you different types of pads if you email me what you?re looking for. This kit does require 15 inch rims or bigger. It will hook up right to your stock e-brake cable. Installation requires you to either: 1. Remove your stub axels. 2. Or cut of your stock drum brake backing plate. One good thing about removing your stub axels is that you get to change your old wheel bearings, which I strongly recommend you do, unless you already have. I personally have this brake kit on my car and let me tell you, I can give my unexpecting passengers whip lash when I press on my brakes. The car stops on the dime, even when I?m going well over 100 miles per hour. I use to have the maxima caliper brake kit with the 300zx rotors and it is nowhere near as strong as this kit. Note: 1. For you people who have re drilled you stub axels to a 5x4.5 lug pattern this brake kit should work for your car as well. 2. You should also think about using a bigger master cylinder when you buy this kit, the added piston area will use more brake fluid than your stock brakes. I can supply you with one for an additional $65. comparison 240sx caliper vs. our stage 4 rear brake kit caliper. 280zx stage 4 front brake kit =$629 This brake kit includes: 1. Enormous 4 piston calipers (43mm pistons) 2. 11.8 inch CNC drilled, diamond slotted, vented, Zink plated, and machine balanced rotors 3. DOT approved custom fabricated steel braided brake lines 4. Custom fabricated T6061 aluminum spacers 5. One pair of custom fabricated 1018 alloy steel brackets, with Zink plating to prevent rusting 6. Ceramic brake pads 7. All the needed hardware As you can see this kit is a complete kit. There are no other parts needed to complete the installation. Installing is very easy, and can be done in less than two hours. The 4 piston calipers you will be getting have the biggest pistons available (43mm). These calipers are also available in many local auto parts stores, so replacing them is not a problem. The vented slotted and drilled rotors are professionally built with CNC machines, and zinc plated to prevent rusting. The steel braided brake lines are custom made to fit this brake kit for easy installation. They are also government DOT approved just like the stock brake lines that come on new cars from the factory today. So you can believe they will not have any problems. The aluminum spacers are made of the highest grade of aluminum on the market T6160. These spacers are very light and extremely strong. The custom fabricated brackets are made of 1018 steel. They will never rust or corrode. Just to give you an example of how strong they are, the stock brackets off most cars today including the maxima brackets have a hardness level of about 13. These brackets have a hardness level of 17. They are not hardened on the outside, so they will not snap. The metal that was used to make these brackets is made in U.S.A. and is certified by two reputable American owned alloy companies: Nucor cold finish group, and Fry steel company. Aluminum brackets are as strong as twigs when compared to these brackets. The brackets also come zink platted to prevent rusting. The ceramic brake pads are built buy centric brake company. They are very quiet and smooth. If you don't want the brake pads you can subtract $20 from the final price. I personally have this brake kit on my 280zx and it made a big difference, my car now stops on the dime. Over all it’s a great brake kit that will make your Z stop faster and better than you could ever imagine. It has bigger pistons than the $800 brake kits Willwood sells, so you do the math.
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