Jump to content
HybridZ

JMortensen

Donating Members
  • Posts

    13726
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    61

JMortensen last won the day on January 17

JMortensen had the most liked content!

1 Follower

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    JonDatsun
  • Website URL
    petdoorstore.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Seattle area, WA

Recent Profile Visitors

29953 profile views

JMortensen's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare

Recent Badges

266

Reputation

  1. Yeah, lowered otherwise stock Z will have something like -3 in back and -.5 in front. Terrible.
  2. I'm in this same boat. I widened the LCAs an inch to prevent CV bottoming and the rear ended up at something like -3.5 with the camber plates flipped and maxxed out positive. I had the same idea about removing the tubes from the uprights. I actually have Mustang 36mm Bilsteins I am going to run. They are the same length as my sectioned front struts that I run now, so I'll need to run a spacer in the back. My thought was to make a mount and bolt the uprights to it to measure the strut angle, then bend the strut tube in say 4 degrees. The camber plate should handle about 2 degrees of adjustment (guesstimate) and so if I could get somewhere in the 0 to -2 or -1 to -3 range I think it would work. My other thoughts were to cut the top of the tower out, plate it and recut the hole for the camber plate (sounds like a lot of hassle), or to make a 1" thick offset plate to mount between the bottom and top of the camber plate and move everything outboard, but seems like that might be a lot of extra stress on the camber plate and strut tower.
  3. I was under the impression that since you don't need airflow to atomize the fuel, you should go bigger on ITBs.
  4. They had a problem where their fabbed upright was flexing. Wasn't the arm. Maybe this one didn't get the update, or maybe the update wasn't good enough. I have similar arms (Apex modeled theirs on mine) and I don't have issues. Regardless, that doesn't look good at all.
  5. Make sure that the suspension moves freely through the full range. Can remove springs and compress the strut with ratchet straps and make sure you don't feel any solid resistance.
  6. The factory mounts are pretty tall. I think you're going to have to remove them with any seat you choose at that height. If you want to race might need to go 1x1 square frame and screw directly into the tubes. BTW, removing the mounts is a PITA too. 487 spot welds holding those bastards in.
  7. Autox but will be doing track days hopefully next summer. Track should have me doing 140 - 150 at the end of the straight, from what I hear.
  8. I think tube80z shared that with me a few years ago. Made me regret that I had installed my fuel cell at a 7* angle because when I did it 7* was considered the max angle you could run without separation. He's talking 20* in there though. That's way outside of what I would have thought would work. I think when I do build one the focus will be on making it as long as possible and I may try to change the angle along the length. Been looking at AJ's gigantic one, and it appears that maximizing the angle in that particular space is the focus, rather than sticking to a particular angle. You can see it kinda steps up past the axle, then flattens out a bit under the gas tank, then steps up again at the end. https://ajhartmanaero.com/modular-diffusor/
  9. Here's something that really surprised me when I read it: diffusers actually work best when the air starts to separate: https://www.racetechmag.com/2017/08/willem-toet-explains-motorsport-diffusers/
  10. 4. This doesn't seem counter-intuitive, as more lift on the front end will tend to make the car understeer, and that's the more inherently stable tendency. 5. I'm sure I read in a book somewhere that lift or drag translates directly to work. If the airflow is doing work it will show up as force on the car. So as calz says, if you clean up the airflow under the car so that it isn't turbulent, you can reduce drag and lift, as it has to do less work to get under the car - acting less like a parachute. If you have a lot of lift, that's a sign the the air is doing more work. Closing the huge hole in the front and ducting to the radiator prevents all that air from packing into the front and pushing up on the hood. This will reduce lift and drag. A spoiler on a Z reduces lift and drag as well (to a point, after which it will reduce lift and increase drag). 7. The further away from the axle the more leverage you have too. So a rear wing can be mounted lower and further back and make more downforce than the same wing mounted in cleaner air and higher in some circumstances. Thinking back to what might be the same video about splitters, I think his view on the shape of a proper splitter is a little simplistic. Most of the time on a race car you're rule limited, or you have practical constraints that limit the shape, but in the more unlimited classes you see the upturned nose of a splitter or a raised tunnel entrance in the front. There are also interesting front wings on open wheel cars that we can learn a little bit from where they have unusual profiles: relatively high in front, flat and close to the ground for a bit, then sloping up at the back. Not unlike McBeath's drawings of what an undertray should look like, but with a more wing-y looking top side. Most low level race cars use flat splitters, but diffuser on the splitter kind of aim for the same sort of shape in the back as the wing. If you're going to design a splitter I'd suggest a close look at what AJ Hartman is doing. He's working with high level aerodynamicists, does lots of CFD and wind tunnel testing, and makes good stuff. Then he makes youtube videos telling you how to DIY it. Pretty amazing, really. Note the front lip shape. Sharp on top, rounded on bottom.
  11. I've watched a bunch of his videos on youtube and ended up buying a bunch of pressure pucks and five 1" manometers to do some track testing. Of course I bought all that shit and then put the car down and spent the next year doing other stuff. Still need to make a temporary dashboard to hold the gauges. The one thing that he really bugged me with was his refrain that "you can't just slap a splitter, diffuser, and a wing on and make downforce" which he said quite a bit IIRC. I ended up linking in the youtube comments to AJ Hartmann's company, because that's exactly what he sells, and it obviously works. I haven't watched anything in a few months, but I did finally find one where he added I think it was a splitter and wing and was like: "HEY! That really worked!" As you mentioned though, he has a ton of good info and practical techniques in his videos, I can imagine the book will be better. Did a lot of coast downs for drag measurement too as I recall. Anyway, thanks for the heads up. Will purchase.
  12. Read your previous post, if it's plugged at the wheel cyl probably just need to rebuild/replace.
  13. What worked for me with an entirely new brake system was pushing fluid backwards. Open the bleeder, use a tube feeding syringe to force fluid to the master. I tried everything; pump/hold/open bleeder, gravity bleed, repeated pumps with hose submerged, vacuum bleed, couldn't get a pedal until I reverse bled. Good luck. It was frustrating as hell for me. https://www.amazon.com/Syringe-Adapter-Feeding-Refilling-Drawing/dp/B07SQC95DT/
  14. This doesn't look like the more aggressive NISMO one, looks like a Z31T LSD. That's probably a good thing. They're plenty aggressive as it is. You might open it up and see if it has the big washers on the sides. If so, that's a pretty big weakness. You can get some clutches from Gary Savage if he's still making them: https://www.facebook.com/garysavage42 or pull the clutches and have 4 more of the ones with the tabs on the inside laser or water cut. Here is a write up on installing it.
×
×
  • Create New...