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05-10-2025. I did a lot of odds and ends today.....little things put off.....I just went around and fixed as I saw them. I used the clear PPF film over the carbon fiber on the inner fender as it was getting real ratty looking on the edges. I also cut some pieces, and put it on the 2 spots the seats are showing wear from being a big guy getting in and out of the car. Will they work on Vinyl? Not sure, but I need something there. Seams showing some cracks due to my poor bodywork skills, this seals them so I can just forget about it and enjoy the car.t Tuch up painting all over the place, then vacuuming....I guess you could call it spring cleaning. I went back to a novel way of richening up the carb a little....washers under the choke know to add fuel everywhere and buy add a washer at a time I have been able to make a lot of progress on getting it right. The other way would be to buy a richer needle, but this is easy, cheap, I already have the parts, and it works. In short it was just a nice sunny day and I got stuff done. I did take A LOT of pics, so the pics I will put on here.....it's pics heavy. so you are forewarned. Cheers and God bless.~Joe

Got the front suspension and sway bar off today. Fought me a little bit, but impact helped a lot and had to take a sawzall to the toe arms, but it’s all out.

I’m hoping to get some work done on the car this weekend. So close to being done with tearing stuff down and ready to add stuff. Just got this dual master cylinder kit that I hope I can make work. It’ll let me adjust front/rear brake bias in the car.

Hi. Did it end up working?

Ordered some cheaply sponge filters while I wait for my CAI box to get finished . Made a smaller vacuum log -3/4” PVC pipe . Despite having one of my widebands flaking on me I was able to drive around well enough that I wasn’t scared of dying on the road anywhere . Not much help out there for guys running MS and ITBS. Seems most Haltech or others . I’ve also got different perspectives on how to load certain tables . I have Yanni saying that all the tables can be run off of TPS and Richard that says running timing off of MAP is best . Presently I am going to try and run it all TPS . I can only hope the FAJS version of a TPS is accurate and reliable . I might eventually go with a contactless style from EFI hardware . For now I haven’t gotten past 38% TPS on my tuning so I’m not stressing my TPS to hard that’s for sure . Honestly - I didn’t think it would run even this good this early in the tune . I am trying to be patient with throttle input since I do hit big lean spots . I am also learning how to use Megalog Viewer at the same time that has a VE analyzer which is pretty damn cool .

As an FYI....it is my understanding that we would not be able to keep HybridZ up & running without those paying advertisers. The donations taken in every year only cover a small portion of the annual operating costs.

Used ITBS seem to be very rare. HKS, I would stay away from the full chinese DCOE ones. KMS takes the chinese bodies and retrofits them with better butterflies and such. https://en.kms.vankronenburg.nl/products/throttle-bodies/bodies/throttlebody-twin Then there are Jenvy EFI Hardware (probably the best designed out) Throttle blades open the opposite way, tapered bore, better throttle blade angles Borla OER(I would stay away from these) ETC.... A common issue with ITB is when the engine is hot on a hot day, they tend to stick slightly open and having them return to idle doesn't work. I believe the bodies expand and cause pinching, but who knows.

Only part I could find was the capacitor. When I removed them from the 2 clocks I had, the one from the non working clock tested good, and the one from the slow clock tested bad. I replaced them both. Now the slow clock works and holds time, but the non working one must have another issue because it still doesn't move.

05-07-2025. My custom ordered fender stickers came in. I covered them (and the rear stickers) with some PPF clear to make them permanent.

Differential Installation- I had additional work on my house after painting it. Sorry again for posting delay. First, I Trial Fit the Rear Differential Support and the Cage before trying to install the Differential. The Trial Fit is make sure all the Fuel, Brake Lines and Hand Brake Cable does interfere with the Differential. Some Early Model 240Z , Nissan widened the Front Differential Mounting Bolt Holes. So make sure your Differential Mounts fit or you must slot existing holes or drill additional ones. Old Mechanical Transmission Jack Installing the Differential- The Best Way to install the Differential is to preassemble the Differential and Differential Support with the Two 14mm bolts. This way you just have to align the Two Main Vertical Bolts with the Two Round Mount on the Support Mount. I used a old mechanical Transmission{ screw version) Jack. One person can install the Differential by himself. If you try to install the Differential after mounting the Differential Support by itself, you need other person to screw in the Two 14mm while you lift that 100Lb Differential- a difficult task. Also, early 240s with a Spare Tire Well, the well is close to the Differential Support on the Left Side Bolt and this 14mm can not even be inserted in. Some owner install Fuel Cells which are much smaller and allow the Left Bolt to be installed. The only problem with the Preassembly Way is the Two 10mm Outer Bolts in the Center of the Differential Support can not be installed with the Cage. So I drilled their internal nuts to 3/8" hole all the way thu the box crossmember. Then, install Two 3/8"x 4" long bolts from the top. Two 2"x 3" x 3/16" steel plates to spread the load over the crossmember top. Two 3/8"NC nuts under the Support Frame to complete this modification. Some people probably don't install this bolt but it is a structural part of this car. More Rear End Modifications coming up.

Like Title states, looking for ITBS for 6 cylinder. 48mm preferred but show me what you got.

Thanks!! It's been a bit, refinding the stoke has been a challenge, but I'm getting excited again. Life changes (wife going back to school) means the race budget is way reduced this year, but I got my eye on a couple days.

Wow...she's looking great, Ben! Nice rebuild after that off at GTA a while back.

Thanks. Glad to see someone running something that wide. Car looks fun, good luck at your next event.

315/30r18 rear and 295/30r18 front. I think the rear wing is 72" wide with a 13" chord length. I wanted the wing to match the rear track width which is quite a bit wider than factory. Got the airdam painted and mounted this weekend, and finalized the splitter wire mounting positions. I have to fiberglass up the blending piece, but that should be pretty speedy once I get material. A couple photos of the mounting/airdam fixed on: I have a radiator to hood duct/extractor that i'll throw glass up while I'm at it in the next few days.

Looks good. What width tires are you running and what’s the width of your wing? I’m a long ways from my build being complete, but those are two things I haven’t decided on yet.

The actual ZCD L brackets themselves were not consistently bent. The widest gap I measured was almost 1/4" which I suppose can be filled in with weld, but is absolutely unacceptable for my standards. There's definitely a spectrum of skill and expectations when it comes to metalwork. My buddy had floors and rockers put into his 60s mustang by a mobile welder...sure it had new metal but the fit and welding was terrible. I took the time and massaged the metal to 0 gaps all around on both rails before welding. I shouldn't be surprised at this point tbh, even the door hinge kit from ZCD was garbage. I ended up having custom bushings machined after zinc coating for perfect door actuation. With that said I probably won't learn my lesson and will order more stuff from them to fix in the future 😂.

This distance?

I imagine you will be saying Sayonara to the body for at least a year. Quicker than that you must have an "in" with the body and paint hop. Here's to hoping you get it back as soon as possible.

On mine, I also used the Z car Depot ones, I had a mobile welder install them.....basically he did what he could with them.....it seems the bend radius is not tight enough and so when welding you have to weld up that "gap? or relief cut, being thick gauge metal, it wouldn't be fun to beat it down flush.

Odd re quest. I am trying to get a measurement that I need to move forward in my differential build. I need a measurement from the Diff seal to the outer edge of the flange that bolts to the halfshafts. Anyone here running an R200 long nose that can measure that?/ Pretty Please?? I need to know how far out the stub axle sticks out so I can decide which CV axles I can use. Thanks In advance

The car is headed off to the bodyshop on Mon so I figured I'd do some final welding and chassis prep to save some labor. What was supposed to be a couple hrs turned into several mostly due to the poorly fitting front sway bar reinforcement plates from ZCarDepot but nothing a bunch of relief cuts, hammer, and brake time couldn't fix. If there's a next time I'll bend the reinforcement plates consistently myself as that may have saved me hours having properly bent brackets from the start. I haven't actually seen any pictures of how others did theirs, so I'll post these up for reference. I have done quite a bit of overhead mig, but never overhead tig and on my back so not my best work but it's under the car 😅

05-02-2025. I got my shift knob with button. I got it from Speed Dawg Shift Knobs. Top notch shop. Shipped it very fast, well packaged and I even got a military discount. If you need a shift knob check this guy out! I got it installed, and all wired in to my Snow Performance Stage 1 Water/Methanol injection kit. I also got my Vacuum Block from Amazon, and got it all hooked up, so the vacuum needed for my Boost Gauge and J&S Safeguard is more professional. I also added a pic where you can see my passenger well is all cleaned up. Good day!

Since the last post I swapped in the 800cc injectors and ProTunerz fuel rail, but haven't gotten to re-doing the front lines yet. My idle PW is almost identical, and they seem to actually run smoother. Over time I had developed yet another exhaust leak, so I decided to have a flex coupler welded in and upgrade to a real muffler while I was at it. I'm also going to try the oblong locking exhaust nuts this time, to see if I can stop blowing out the gasket when the stock ones work loose. While the manifolds were off I swapped to my soft wastegate spring, since the hard spring was pushing a minimum of 14-16 which was a bit spicy at part throttle. The new spring wasn't giving me more than 12psi at max dutycycle, so after trying the reversed wg routing and getting a minimum of 18psi, I upgraded to a 4-port MAC boost solenoid. Now I'm able to hold from 6-18psi easily, and at only 60% duty I should have room to push past 20psi once on E85. I also wrapped my downpipe, because why not. Next up I need to fabricate some sort of air box and cold air feed, to stop sucking in hot engine bay air during the summer. Eventually I'll get around to wiring in MS3, new seats, roll bar. The list never ends.