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wired thing is my dash is digital...

Yep ! Looks just like this one !! I will make sure there's not a kink in the wire before I order it. Thank U very much jhm 🙏

And finally the new cold air intake I 3d printed in nylon/cf

My first prototype of a printed taillight surround and final version. I printed in 3 pieces then laid fiberglass over the back to stiffen them and bond together in 1 piece.

Header wrap and insulation

Some more 3d prints

Finally we took some POR15 chassis black and painted the exposed metal. Under the flares it looks almost invisible.

For the front's we bent a length of 3/16 rod and tack welded it in place. This stiffens the fender back to OEM or better. I have seen a cut fender wrinkle before when doing hot laps on a track. Weld and grind smooth.

This is where it gets fun. We cut the rear inner panel slightly longer than the outer panel. This allows the inner fender to be bent and lightly hammered out to match up with the outside panel for welding. Stripped back the paint just far enough were we were certain it would not show around the flare. Then weld um up.

Just went through the process of installing some small carbon fiber ZG's on a 280Z. Goal is squeezing some 18x8 wheels underneath. Probably nothing to learn here, but this is how I do it. First we sized everything up and looked at it. Then looked some more. Then swap them all around and looked more. Then repeat 10 times. Finally we drew a fat line with a Sharpie on tape where the cuts would go.

I think I had a setting wrong in Tunerstudio. I had Second Trigger Active On set to Rising but reading the manual again, it should be set to Poll Level. I will make this change and try it again. I just need to get my flywheel back to try cranking it, might be a couple days. Do you think that will solve my problem of no cam signal?

I followed the manual on how to set the position of the cam sensor. The attached picture is the manual next to what my cam sensor location is at. Only difference is my crank sensor is on tooth #6 from the missing tooth when engine is TDC.

Finishing Details of the Super Duty 8.8 Conversion- Strut Spring Tubes- The Threaded Strut Tubes were obtained from BC RACING. If you don't have a TIG WELDER, Vladmir can weld his Strut Tubes Brackets on. BC RACING STRUT TUBES STRUT TUBES with Brackets WELDED ON After installing the Complete Strut Assemblies with Coil Springs and car on the ground, you can adjust the Spring Preload and Spring Height. Adjust the Spring Height to your preference. Double check Wheel to Body Clearance by testing the suspension under various road conditions. Exhaust System Modifications- I raise the Dual Exhaust Pipes for extra clearance(Speed Bumps, etc), REAR EXHAUST PIPES also, had to widen to accommodate the Wider 8.8 FORD DIFFERETIAL. Rear View of Exhaust System .

shroud complete and ready to go~!

My new speaker pods arrived, and I wired up my Spal fans and shroud from Galgo today! Need some more speaker wire that I'll pick up tomorrow. Fans work really well. Have them set to turn on at 185 and off at 175 in megasquirt.

It seems like the posts here are fairly old and there are more options and all have now updated speed feedback usually via GPS or some other means to make everything automatic. There are a few other power steering options, two good electric and one more high end hydraulic more customizable and for show: https://zpowersteering.com/ I think this seems to be what many are say is one of the better ones out there that has evolved and the level regulates by the speed of the car so no knobs needed but this and the other electric I believe can be adjusted. ZPS uses a much smarter solution. Our proprietary system continuously senses and measures the torque differential between two inputs: Your hands on the wheel, and the tires on the ground. When there is a disparity between these values, our system instantaneously applies or subtracts steering assist so it remains constant and linear. It is a “need-based” application of power, rather than being based on an irrelevant value such as vehicle speed. Simply put – When you need it, it’s there. When you don’t, it’s not, just like a hydraulic system. https://www.ezpowersteering.com/car-brands/datsun-en-us/240z-en-us/z-series/ I think this was one of the first ones and has evolved and supposedly Zpowersteering copied their design? https://retrorack.com.au/240z-rack-kit This is cool looking, very customizable, well built if you want hydraulic https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/electric-power-steering-kit-for-240z-260z-280z-datsun-1970-1978-s30?srsltid=AfmBOoo542JU9EXenZ92aEsoDikk3hWuIf06n2-OgBn6SwUdxCeLvKvq I have this on my wife's 240z and it works well. To me it is a little sensitive but when you get used to it, the feel is decent. I have another 240z that I am thinking of trying the Zpowersteering option or the EZpowersteering? Not ready to pull the trigger so if anyone has experience in those compared to the Silvermine, I would love to hear your thoughts? Right now I am leaning towards EZpowersteering?

Have you tried clocking it any? There is an area of the stroke that it won't work in.

Hello, I have installed the Jeep 4.0 I6 Cam Sensor. However, I am not getting a CAM signal on the composite logger. I did verify I was getting 5V, ground and signal to the switch. Jeep 4.0 I6 cam sensor I believe is an open collector hall. So I did jump JP7 on the MS3X board. R32 I turned it anti-clockwise many turns to ensure its all the way. R11 I used the ZC Testpoint, I got 2.41 V by turning it clockwise until it wouldn't go up any higher. I have the tunerstudio set to Toothed wheel, Coil on Plug, MS3X Cam In, Dual wheel with missing tooth. But still no cam signal on the composite logger. I'm going to move forward with starting the engine and breaking it in on the dyno using wasted spark. But I would like to get this sorted out... for others that are running sequential using the Jeep sensor and MS3X... can you please let me know what I may be missing.

Looking through some old reference videos I found one from a couple years ago on carb sync check, throttle response and engine movement with the new at that time Milkfab engine mounts. You could balance a glass of water on the valve cover on idle and rev 😆. I had played with a few configurations and had it pretty dialed at that point, with an emphasis on driveability and response. I'm hoping when it comes back together the response will be even snappier with the more free flowing Protunerz manifold and vband G Series turbo. 20230207_161111.mp4

Thanks he's usually around when I'm working on projects but mostly out of frame. Spent a couple weeks recovering from surgury but feeling well enough now to start back in on things. Working through clearancing the rear end for the twin 60mm exhaust tonight I realize I should probably just fully modify everything now versus after the underside gets refinished. I clearanced the t3 r200SN front mount, and while the welds aren't the most aesthetic, I'm fairly impressed as it has full root penetration. Working forward, I had previously clearanced the rear crossmember but I think I want to fully plate it out and weld in some structural reinforcement.

Radiator arrived:

Well while the z was in the back garage I pulled the exhaust off . I had tried something that I won’t do again but I used a square port gasket ( Nissan ) on my mn47 head with my square port header . I was getting some small leaks when I pressurized the exhaust during leak checks . I went back with the gasket to match the head which worked fine before . Also stared at the ITBS for a long time trying to figure out why #3 was sucking more air . As you can see in the pics the linkage was digging into the side of the ITB . Shining a light into the ports before hand did seem to show 3 open a hair more . It was such a small difference I can’t swear I did anything , but I’m betting it’s enough . I ended up just filing the tab on the linkage down . I also figured a way to run my coolant bypass on #6 . I’ll run it under my ITBS on top of the heat shield . Might also try again to run air for a remote IAC . It’s actually getting too busy under the ITBS . Also on the to do list is to find some different cooling fans . I want to run brushless for the versatility and power since I want to install AC . AC is ordered from AC solutions but that’s a month out at least . Cold air box got glued tonight . 75mm Stacks are getting printed out and I’m getting close to finalizing this long project !

Buy the nicest one you can afford. Trust me.

The video shows the best method of Removing paint and rust from your 240z in preparation for restoration. This Chemical Wash is the most complete method of stripping all paint and corrosion from the vehicle. It will even get inside every nook and cranny of the metal structure. Even, Abrasive Blasting can not get inside of the interior of the boxed metal. Also, after the chemical wash, a rust inhibitor is sprayed completely on the metal surface. This inhibitor will prevent even surface rust from forming for couple days to a week depending on the humidity of your area. But, Chassis Epoxy Paint should be appied as soon as possible to prevent surface rust from forming. The only Downside of this Cleaning process is Cost and Location of these Dipping Plants. The prices cost over $1500. The location of the Plants are few and far away( check Web for the closest one to you).