Brad-ManQ45

Have you bothered to download the FSM for the ZX to determine the valid range of values for the signal from the AFM? If not, go to carfiche.com, download the manual and do your troubleshooting...

You can put the viscous LSD in the Armada rear end and wind up with a 2.98 or 3.36 rear gear. Do a search, there is someone who has done this...

I am starting this thread to address any aspects of installing a Toyota 2JZ engine in the S130. THis can be either NA or Turbo. I understand that it has been done in at least one car and hope to have anyone who has investigated or done it contribute to this thread for everyone who is inclined to make this conversion have an easier time of it - or at least be more informed about what is involved. Apparently it will fit, but there are no specifics imparted in any of the other threads that I have been able to ascertain. Questions that need to be answered (at this point): Which oil pan configuration(s) are needed for manual and power steering? How did you fab mounts? (pics requested) The one coversion that I have seen has an engine driven radiator fan, sop apparently there is enough room in the engine bay to allow this - is the stock ZX radiator enough to support the added cubes/turbo engine? I think this is enough to start out with, and hope there are people willing to contribute. Many thanks to those who have shared their knowledge in the S30 swap threads - obviously, the info that is engine/performance related can be utilized by everyone, but I feel that the S30 swap has been covered well in other threads, and the S130 has to have its' own thread.

Actually, I believe forged require more clearance than cast, because they expand more. If this is an Na build I would say that hyperutectic pistons would be best - even for a turbo'd - only IF you know how to keep the AFR and ignition under control....just ask ScottieGNZ

The 20 wil take a spoolgun directly for aluminum. No extra controller needed...

AutoZone shows the same FPR for NA and Turbo... If there is a vacuum line going to the intake to the FPR you should be fine with the NA one.

You will get better off boost response and driveability out of a MS system than the stock one. Replacements for CAS and dizzy can get expensive. Once you put in bigger injectors you need the tunability of MS...

I love my MM175 - bought it new online w/cart for $635 about 6 years ago... I've built a rotisserie with it and welded in half an inner fender panel and firewall (battery tray rust, and of course repaired and welded in battery tray with it so far. Have some other areas (windshield and rear quarter panel) that will get attention when it warms up....

Sweet Gabe! Can't wait for you to tell and show us how the new setup runs...

aziza z has it nailed - look at the mounts for the diff...

Nice start! I like to listen to a lot of different music, but like Holly Cole (Don't Smoke in Bed is one) and One Stanley Clark album - East River Drive. I have Martin Logan Quest speakers driven by an OCM 500 amp, my surround speakers are driven by an Aragon 8008x3. They are all Definitive Technology speakers. My Preamp/Processor is an Acurus ACT3 with the 7.1 upgrade.

I would say you would be better off with the 225's. 8" is really not wide enough for 245's and perfect for 225's. The wider the wheel in relation to the section width the less squirm you get in cornering, therefore more consistency. I read an article in Turbo Magazine in the early 90's when they hopped up and Eclipse. Went to 7" rims and tried the same brand/model tire in two different sizes - 205/55/16 and 225/50/16. The 205/55's cornered better in both slalom and skidpad. Immediately after each test the would take tread temperatures across the tire treads and the narrower tires were more consistent, the wider having cold spots, showing uneven contact.

I am running 235/60/14's on 7" 0 offset Western Cyclone II's on my '83ZXT with no problems. You might have a problem w'70 series on the 15" rims because of diameter. My buddy runs 225/50/15's w/no problems on his '82. I'd stick to somewhere close to stock diameter for the tires.

IMO,trying to build an exhaust for NA AND turbo are mutually exclusive. NA you only need 2.25 or 2.5 inch pipes, turbo you need 3 inch. Too big on the NA and you get droning, wight you don't need and a lack of low end torque. Too small on a turbo and you choke the top end and spool up characteristics.

I wouldn't bother with the compressor side. I know a few w/only oil-cooled turbos that have cermaic coated turbine housings with no problems - but make sure you idle down long enough...

To run a T5 on an L6 you have to have one with the Datsun input shaft and the Datsun bellhousing. Don't bother getting a Ford (or Chevy) T5 - ain't gonna work.

If you wait you can get the HF 12 speed floor model on sale, and use a 20% off coupon and walk out the door for ~$290 like I did. It's normally $459, goes on sale for $329... Love mine.

If I were spending that amount of money on a turbo, I'd make sure it was watercooled...BW's are not.

Glad you're out of the hospital - that place is for sick people! The less time you spend in one the less likely you are to get an infection.

A little off topic, I investigated LASIK but my prescription for reading galsses is 10.75 in one eye and 11.00 in the other, so out of the range for 'no problems w/halo's at night. I recently went in for an eye eam and I have cataracts, which opened up the option of having my lenses replaced. My insurance will cover all but the $350/eye charge for correcting astigmatism. Those of you who have seen/met me at SEZ and DNI Shootouts know how much I had suffered in windy conditions due to the contacts that I need to see and the dust kicked up not only at the track but at the motels. Monday I have my right eye done and the following Monday the left. I emphasised to the octor that far/night vision is of utmost importance to me - I have been using glasses to read for about 8 years, so am used to that. My wife had RK done, and really hates to drive at night, so I'm always elected, unless she's following me.....

Ibe: PLEASE pay atttention to what others have said. I did my due dilligence and bought a MM175 - it is simply a better deal that the Hobart - and it is not just the insides - Hobarts have plastic cases and use aluminum wiring/coils whereas Miller uses copper. The Miller 252 IS a great machine, but so is the 212, and both accept the same spoolguns. I remember when I bought mine, for another #300 I could have gotten the 210 AND a spoolgun thrown in (this was 6 years ago). Since I didn't and don't need to weld aluminum, the MM175 was the best buy for me at the time. I think the MM212 would be for you, if only because resale value will be higher as a percentage of what you paid, and more professionals and knowledgeable amateurs will gravitate toward it - you'll have an easier time selling it if you ever have to. JMHO

My MM175's panel states it draws 19.1 amps max. When I appl;ied for an electrical permit, I asked for an electrical inspector to come and discuss what I was going to do (a second 120V outlet in the garage and a 220v outlet in the basement and the garage for compressor and welder (not at the same time of course). When the electrical inspector came out he said I had to have a 30 amp circuit for it (that 125% rule) after looking at the welder. 30 is definitely what you need...

I have replaced the inner fender panel from the shock tower to firewall where the battery exploded on my 280ZXT, and half of the firewall. I am glad that I bought a bead roller, because I was able to fabricate panels with the stiffening beads in them. I borrowed a friends' sheet metal brake to bend a 90 degree flange, then 'slotted' the leg of the flange that had to be contoured for the inner fender [anel to 'roll' down fo the frame rail from the top of the fender. A lot of vise work and bending to get the right contours, but well worth the effort. I actually used 4 pieces - easier to work with several small pieces than 1 or 2 bigger - especially w/the bead roller. I was lucky to have been able to cut a battery tray out of a donor car that my friend had - but I did have to fabricate the lower side support for it - matchibg the contours that were already there "think corrugation'... If you take your time and don't rush anything, I'm sure you'll do fine.

I'll second the Lotus Europa - like strapping a skateboard to your butt...

A 30 amp circuit will be fine for bothe the welder and the compressor. I don't know what kind of compressor you have, but I had to make my own cord for the CH 60 gal. I purchased. I used the 30 amp twist/lock outlet for the 220 outlet in my garage and use it for a 220 vold heater or the welder. My compressor is in the basement (no noise issues) with its own outlet on the same circuit. I don't think changing the plug end would void the warranty on the welder, but you could make an adapter cord easily.