Brad-ManQ45

I was only replying to your misstatement... Yes it is longer and you may need to get a different yoke, but the cost is far less than a new adapter...and you will have a very nice 3.06:1 1st gear to get that SUV rolling...

Dish or no - the pin height will be the same - take a look at the dished pistons - they have a raised edge all the way around. This is actually a rather poor way to dish the piston (cuts down on quench area). You'd be better off getting pistons w/a dish under the combustion chamber rather than the whole top of the piston (minus the rim of course) - take a look at the pics of the combustion chamber and you'll see what I mean.

Big difference living in the industrialized areas of the North versus living in the South... This type of machinery is far less common down here, but a mainstay for manufacturing up North....

The th350 and 700R4 have the same bolt pattern.

I have a fuel rail, injectors, afm and engineroom efi harness - no ecu tho'...

You will spend at least as much on tooling... And I think you are making a wise decision in getting a new one from a quality importer. If you go to one or two yahoo groups for milling and a few other sites, you could probably hook up with people that could evaluate condition, but once again, the pickings are pretty slim, unless you get lucky after someone else wasn't....

You need to get a converter with a stall speed somewhere around 2000 - 2400 rpm at the torque your engine is putting out. Possibly one from a 6 cyl. Chevy. or one with a higher rqated stall speed from a V8 - say 4000 rpm stall. The less torque you have the lower the stall speed. You only have about half the torque of a V8, so you can almost double the needed stall speed for a close approximation. You can check with some of the converter companies for their recommendations.... I personally would think about putting in a 700R4 for the low 1st gear and the overdrive...

There is a Megasquirt forum on this site that should answer all questions....

NickG: Welcome to HybridZ, and thank you for taking the time to post the remedy. If I had been looking I would have suggested the IM as the problem. Anyway thanks again for posting your solution - too few people bother and no-one gets to learn...

I've always read that it is normal for EGT's to be over 1400 degrees F) , and if they aren't that high you're leaving power on the table - running too rich or timing off. 1900_ degrees sounds like a bit much if you're not racing for sure. This is for gasoline - not diesels, which run a lot lower temps. which is why the variable vane turbos don't work very long behind gas engines as they do with diesels.

Simple talk here folks. He's talkingabout one or two cylinders that don't have the same compression as the others. THey probably fire, but individually removing a spark plug cable on either one of these will not affect idle RPM as much as the higher compression cylinders. To check to see if it is rings, you simply add some oil in the cylinder that is low and run the compression test again. If the compression rises to within 10% of the other cylinders you have a ring problem in that cylinder. If the compression does not increase then it is a valve problem. Yes you do want to have he throttle plate open fully when cranking, and preferably have ALL spark plugs out of their respective cylinders - why put more of a load on the battery and starter?

Ya'll think too small... I want them ALL, along with a much modified Lotus Europa...

I don't think anyone running more than 15 PSI boost (or anything more than their stock compression ratio in boost) will agree with you... Air volume is more than doubled at that amount of boost.

I'd seriously think about switching to MegaSquirt and running a toothed wheel setup. I am trying to decide whether I want to base my '75 on an LT1 (reverse cooling flow is good for turbo's), or going with an LSx based engine. Either way it will be MS - that is what I'm using on my '83ZXT....

Really good to know WizardBlack. Thanks!

Nice #'s Gabe! How 'bout scanning the dyno printout and posting it?

Yea, the only difference is the bolt pattern for the wastegate housing...

I think hughdogz already has one on his ZX...

What I have had since '94 is a water-cooled center w/70 A/R S3 trim TO4B compressor section with a clipped stock turbine with the stock Nissan turbine housing. I want to use the ATP Ultimate Internal Wastegate setup, but of course needed a Ford Turbine housing for it. So I spot a T3 turbo off a Thunderbird Turbo Coupe on EBay, and I look at the pics and say to myself "that looks like a TO4E Compressor Section..." After searching all over for a good price on a new turbine housing (real Garrett or Turbonetics - no Asian knock offs please) and seeing prices around $249, I figured WTF and put a bid down and won it. What came to the door today is in fact a water-cooled center section, 50 A/R TO4E 54 Trim turbo, with the stock .63 A/R Ford turbine housing, wastegate/downpipe. I had time before class today to take off the compressor housing and use my digital calipers to measure the Inducer and Exducer diameters to verify the trim. If I didn't know that the regular wastegate would have boost control problems, I'd almost be inclined to use the Ford downpipe - it's MUCH better than the stock one I have been using with my 3" exhaust. Add the oil-cooled center section and stock T3 compressor section and turbine wheel shaft from my original turbo, said turbine/shaft may not be serviceable and I can put together a turbo to sell, provided that this is not a big shaft (and since it isn't Turbonetics it probably isn't - the shafts looked the same between my present working turbo and the just arrived one). Tomorrow I'll see about taking off the turbine housing and seeing what kind of turbine it has (although I haven't seen much on the 'net for gauging trim by measurements, I can at least compare it to the stock turbine that is still on the original turbo. This will be going back into the '83ZXT that I am currently painting the engine compartment on after replacing half the firewall and half an inner fender panel and battery tray on. Then it will be some body work and paint, put the engine along with a 4L60E tranny (to replace the T5) back into the car, add intercooler and MSIIExtra and about 18 lbs of boost. Looking at compressor maps, the 54 is much better than the S3 I already have and maybe better than the 57 for efficiency. I'm really hoping that the is a stage 3 or 5 turbine in there. With the torque multiplication from the high stall torque converter I have, I can deal with a bit less boost down low if I can pick up more power further up... We'll see...

Actually, Hugh MacInnes book Turbocharging states that the combined polar moment of inertia of two smaller turbines is less that one bigger turbine capable of flowing the same amount of air... The mass of the two may be more, but most of that mass is much closer to the center, whereas with the bigger turbine, there is a lot more mass further away, and when you are talking increases as distance squared, you pick up a bunch more PMI.

Don't know anyone in WA, but BRAAP is in OR - and he knows his SH*T.....

You should disconnect the fuel injector for that cylinder for any and all driving/testing, engine running or you are wasting gas and possibly diluting your oil. Next, check the compression after putting in a couple teaspoons of engine oil in the spark plug hole. If compresision goes up, then your rings are shot in that cylinder. Normally the other cylinders would be close. You have not posted readings for all cyloinders, which you should do, both before and after with the oil treatment in the spark plug hole. If the compression does NOT go up, then you have valve problems - considerably cheaper to resolve.

Or you could use racingmini_mtl's P&H injector boards to get everything you can out of the injectors. (faster response time for bigg injectors (assuming turbo app and large injectors - more granularity)...

I have the "Flame" HF hood, and I always weld with a halogen light shining on the work. This allows me to see adequately w/o flashes on a setting a little darker than the lowest setting. I also have the least expensive HF helmet for people that ocme over and want to watch and no-one has gotten flashed with it either. I will say that for TIG, you would want a better helmet tho...

Chartreuse Green - a 1972 color - the color code is 123. PPG's code is 44729 check it out here: http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1972-datsun-pg01.jpg