Brad-ManQ45

Boy, I feel great - Clifton and I are sympatico on what you should do! Clifton - I'm gonna MS my '83ZXT, and will be going w/MSII like you! znow: Clifton knows a lot and verifies all the research I've been doing the past 1.5 years, so I feel very confident in my choice. I will say that I intend to have it built for me, but I want to build the stim just so I can check it if I do something bone-headed when I'm wiring it or in cased I ever run into a problem in the future - the soldering practice and reading the schematics will be a much needed refresher for me as the last kits I built were as a scout over 30 years ago. If I can handle the stim, I'll probably want to build the next MS unit for my '75 v8 project.

If you do have a friend that can help, I see no reason NOT to do the MS swap. The only reason to go with MS I at this point is if you HAVE to go wasted spark/COP for ignition, which is more $. MS II will work with the stock ignition and in a short time will be able to support WS. We are talking a bare bones comparison here. MS will let you tune to your hearts desire and change things around (like boost and injectors) and timing, which the MAS 300ZX system will NOT let you do unless you pay someone to do it and have to wait and wait to get it done. If you go PAST bare bones, MS has a heck of a lot more potential. Read the "1 hr MS install" thread. Easy decision for me.....

I have them and Illuminas on my '83 ZXT and love 'em.

Good news! I too will enjoy seeing you run again at SEZ7. Watching you and Dr_Hunt was a real treat that I could reapeat as often as possible.

Try doing a search....

Unless you have A/C, I'd be worried about the VOLUME of air that you'll get without the cowl vents. That is a high pressure area feeding the HVAC system - maybe not so important for heating, but without A/C you could get a bit sweaty in the hot months, if you have any of them up there in the great white north....

Best way to tell valve guides vs rings is to see WHEN you get blue smoke. If at full throttle - rings. If decelerating rapidly (in gear, high vacuum) - valve guides.

I met wife #2 on the dance floor at Studebakers 16 years ago, and it was pretty much as you described it. Congrats!

From what I can see it looks nice! I used some teak veneer when I put an aftermarket stereo in my '83ZXT....

That would put the stock 280Z backspace around 3 5/8"

Lookin' good Justin! Unless you're not gonna be using vacuum powered (brakes/cruise etc), don't forget your going to need to tap the intake behind the TB's and have a reservoir for whatever you need a vacuum/boost reference source for....

My '72 351CJ Mustang had a solenoid that operated against the throttle linkage for a fast idle when the compressor was on....

Glenn: You have a PM

I don't know exactly what you are asking here. A waste gate gets a manifold vacuum/pressure signal which causes it to start opening a a preset level of boost. As the description implies, this vacuum line is to the intake manifold. Now, if you were talking about a BOV, and are planning to recirculate air, then the large diameter output from the BOV should be routed to immediately in front of the turbo compressor intake, and the BOV should be mounted close to the front of the throttle body.

You now have nothing but BAD Karma left..... Lucky dog....

Clifton: What car are you running MSII on, and what ignition?

Very Nice!

If I were with AJ, I'd preignite....

You say PO-TATE-O and I say PO-TAHT-O... If one wants to argue what constitues performance: What kind of performance do you get in regard to gas mileage" How does your engine perform in regard to emissions? If you want to measure performance by "area under the curve", then you still are only talking about WOT, and EGR is not an issue. If your definition of performance is to maximize power at all rpm/vacuum conditions, then indeed, EGR affects performance. On a road-race or autoX car, I can see this rather limited view of the word performance applied to good use. On a street car, I think the broader view of all around performance is more appropriate. Semantics. It is documented that you get better mileage and lower emissions on engines with EGR and fuel injection that have been tuned for it. I personally am fond of breathing, and even after I don't have to be emissions tested, I will keep my catalytic converter, MS my ZXT, and utilize a wideband and EGR for my daily driver to maximize performance in the areas of, power, mileage and emissions. No doubt I will bias toward power and mileage (since everything is a compromise something has to take back seat), but I have no doubt that what I end up with will pollute less than the stock EFI system.

The ZXT's already have Pop Off Valves and something that works as a BOV. No need to get any. If you were using a different Intake Manifold, then you could go to HKS, Greddy, Blitz, Turbonetics and get BOV's (and have to drill and tap the intake for it). HKS has Pop Off Valves.

Actually guys, EGR is critical in the search for fuel economy with engines past the mid 80's. Take the LT-1 for instance. By this time GM knew what they were doing with EFI, and through the use of EGR, they could advance the timing further at part throttle cruise and get better gas mileage. EGR has never been used at full throttle on any car, so max power has never been affected by having EGR on the engine. I will agree that at smaller throttle applications you don't have quite as much pep, and certainly, there is no arguing the fact that the system falls under the category of "more stuff to go wrong", but don't rip it out on a whim - especially if you're interested in emissions and economy with your performance.

I agree that you should optimize your setup - AFR's, timing, amount/size/efficiency of intercooler. But once that is done, there is a point that no more gas will inhibit detonation. That my friends is the point that you start using water injection. For those with EBC's with 2 or more settings, this would be a piece of cake. MBC's and this combination a bit more of a pain. After all, you can set a max level for when you're just on the street, and select the times that you use tyhe higher boost level and water injection. A fail safe for the wastegate if you run out of water would be nice - hmmmmmm.....Megasquirt, Boost control and water injection w/failsafe - it just might get done...

Cool to keep them out of the garage and house. They are natural enemies of termites, so I can't say they're better off gone, but then I'm 52 and don't roll around/play in the yard - only mow the dam* thing. Killing the workers won't get the queen, but the bait type poisons will. Instant Grits works well for this and is non-poisonous.

Hugh MacInnes, in his book Turbocharging, devoted an entire chapter to water injection. A quick rundown if I may This is cut down/paraphrased: You can only ward off detonation only so much by adding fuel. Once you add water, you can use a leaner AFR than you had at the point you started experiencing detonation and be able to run more boost. A 50/50 mixture of water and alcohol will give even more power.

Pop N Wood: You are indeed correct, the Black and Red wires are the two wires to connect for power, the ground would go to green, as the white wire is the neutral, which is the "return" for the 110/120/125 volt circuit in newer dryers. This also follows the standard for any 110/120/125 volt circuit of one hot wire and a neutral wire. The only difference here of course is the extra hot to provide 220/240/250 volts.